OMG...sorry but tap-release-tap is the worst kinda braking you can do on bikes. Seriously, it will only destabilize the bike. You are supposed to use the brake levers as a "regulator" and not as an on-off "switch".
You start with gentle pressure on the front lever gradually giving the lever hell. When you apply gentle pressure the weight of the bike shifts forward. The front tyre now gets more contact patch to take more braking input. Thats the only reason why you should be gentle first and then you MUST go on increasing the braking( with more contact patch the tyre has enough braking traction to take a lot of braking abuse).
Grabbing the lever in panic braking doesnt allow the front contact patch to widen and hence the front skids. Its not because the force was too much. The same force if applied after making sure of the front contact patch will stop the bike without the front skidding.
Quote:
Originally Posted by n_aditya
Well the pumping action is exactly what ABS does. The system brakes and then releases the pressure when there is a slight hint of wheel locking.
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Thats
not how ABS works. The
system doesnt brake hard and then release pressure and then brake again and then release again. The
system doesnt brake at all untill you trigger the system by being a moron with your brakes. The
system sheds excess braking input to prevent the wheel from locking. The
System then distributes the force between the front and the rear wheel to keep the bike stable. The
System is doing all this with an ECU which is cycling at 16 rounds per second. IN short it is finding out if the wheel is locking 16 times in ONE second. The
System exists because you cannot do it with your brain. Dont attempt to do what the ABS does. You simply cannot. Garry McCoy can.
The
system is also distributing the force to keep the suspensions in their best working range to provide maximum traction.
Keep the contact patch concept in mind and now Imagine the tap-release-tap method. You will brake the front..the bike will dip..then you will release the front..the bike will shoot up. The contact patch which was widened during the dip has now disappeared cause the bike has shot up. Now you will brake again only this time you have even lesser contact patch. I am sorry but thats Bullshit. You are also makign the front forks jump up and down. How will they help you in maintaining the traction up front ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by n_aditya
On the other hand, I agree that you need to press the brake firmly enough but not so much that the wheel locks. But at times when you need to shed speed and the wheel locks with firm pressure what'll you do? keep the lever pressed or release and press again?  |
Keep the lever pressed. Thats why braking is the most important aspect for sportsbikes. You need to practice it to death. Your wheel shouldnt lock if you are doing it right..for you to release the brakes to prevent the locks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by killer_instinct
I
What does Tenhut have to say abt this??
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I for one didnt like the IRC tyres. They are ok but when you start pushing the bike harder you know they arent gonna help you any further.
Leaning the bike untill you drag the pegs doesnt mean the tyres are dishing out good grip. It means you body positioning needs to be changed.