electrical modification,convert apaches to full dc with power to run hids all day! - Page 2 - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community

drvmtm · 06-27-2010, 05:33 PM

after installing the new rewinded coil,here are the things you can do to check as if its working properly or not.

connect ape rr to the chassis bolt or in simple words ,just bolt it to mount on the body of motorcycle.

connect the coil output to 2 grey ape rr wires,these are the ac input.

connect the oem wiring from the coil containing various wires like-neutral/pulse coil wire/pickup coil wire.BE SURE NOT TO ADD THE OEM ELCTRICAL WIRES,AS THEY ARE MODIFIED AND YOU ALREADY CONNECTED TO APE RR S AC INPUT.

connect the ape rr s output to battery directly.yellow to positive terminal,black to negative terminal,NOT THE GROUND THEN TO NEGATIVE,DIRECTLY TO BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL!!

stop!!

grab your trusty digital multimeter

and check the dc voltage of the battery

now take the readings and post it in the fo0llowing manner...

when the engine is off-
start the engine-------
@1k-.................volts
@2k-.................volts
@3k-.................volts
@4k-.................volts
@5k-.................volts
@6k-.................volts
@7k-.................volts
@8k-.................volts
@9k-.................volts

if the range is between 12 volts to 15.8 volts ,then the system is working properly.your charging is ok till now.
BE SURE TO USE A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY OR YOU CAN GET SOME WEIRD READINGS!!

to double check you can check the ampere rate also,.

TURN THE BIKE OFF!!!
set the digital multimeter to ampere mode.
remove the ape rr s yellow wire from the battery connect it to dig multimeter s red wire and the black wire to battery .be sure the connections should be tight.
start the bike.you should get a reading between 3-6 amps.

if you are getting the above said readings then just you need to reroute the all the bikes electrical s PROPERLY with a help of professional electricians help.

SARAB_FI · 06-27-2010, 09:08 PM

ThE modification which is suggested by our mate can also be applicable to rtr fi?
As i guess there is a bit difference in electrical system as compare to carb models. because of inclusion of fi sytem (i.e ecu, dc fuel pump,sensors) and there is a big capacitor placed under the tank which is connected with electrical harness might be in connection with battery to store up electrical charge and to supports battery output.
My duvidha!!
If i rewind the coil and draws output from it( i guess it means i m drawing power from lighting coil only, correct me if m wrong) will there be any problem with fi system, like now if i remove my battery, the whole system ( including fuel pump) runs on magneto power only.
last month i convert all my lighting load to dc by tapping a wire from dc circuit(fuel pump ckt) but after two weeks battery's plates( charging capability becomes zero) gone due to fast draining of charges from battery, now i again switched to stock setup with ups battery of 9amp.

My question is this k if i increase its charging rate by only replacing stock RR with APE RR is it enough?

drvmtm · 06-28-2010, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SARAB_FI

ThE modification which is suggested by our mate can also be applicable to rtr fi?

the mod can be done in any apache,the fi needs few more watts thats it,the system is capable of pumping a reallife 8+amps when needed,which is way more then stock capability.

As i guess there is a bit difference in electrical system as compare to carb models. because of inclusion of fi sytem (i.e ecu, dc fuel pump,sensors) and there is a big capacitor placed under the tank which is connected with electrical harness might be in connection with battery to store up electrical charge and to supports battery output.

the fi bikes pump more amp then regular models and there is a capacitor to load some juice also for sudden surge,but the modded system is producing even more then that,and this modded system then will be using the stock electricals also ,so that capacitor will be added in to the circit.

My duvidha!!
If i rewind the coil and draws output from it( i guess it means i m drawing power from lighting coil only, correct me if m wrong) will there be any problem with fi system, like now if i remove my battery, the whole system ( including fuel pump) runs on magneto power only.

please read the first post properly,i said i used all eight poles,not only light poles,so its not the mere light coils only!
yes you need a battery to complete the circuit,otherwise the system should not work.it may also with the capacitor,but its recommended you use at least a decent battery when you are converting to FULL DC.

last month i convert all my lighting load to dc by tapping a wire from dc circuit(fuel pump ckt) but after two weeks battery's plates( charging capability becomes zero) gone due to fast draining of charges from battery, now i again switched to stock setup with ups battery of 9amp.

you tapped the battery charging section which bearly pump 3.5-4 amps,so this happend,you were not using other 4 poles of magneto,thus this happened.you were charging less,pulling more ,so the result.

My question is this k if i increase its charging rate by only replacing stock RR with APE RR is it enough?

in rather simple words its not possible.you need to rewind the coil properly to get the desired results in apache as the charging system is very unique.please refer the first post for details.

,hope you got your ans.

SARAB_FI · 06-28-2010, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drvmtm

, if i remove my battery, the whole system ( including fuel pump) runs on magneto power only. .

My main objective of mentioning this above point was to quote the reliable consideration of this system, as suppose in worst case scenario the batterys power gone off due to undesirable cause than will this full dc system able to run fuel pump n other parts of ecu

because in stock setup magneto/lighting coil runs them.

drvmtm · 06-29-2010, 02:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SARAB_FI

My main objective of mentioning this above point was to quote the reliable consideration of this system, as suppose in worst case scenario the batterys power gone off due to undesirable cause than will this full dc system able to run fuel pump n other parts of ecu

because in stock setup magneto/lighting coil runs them.

you need a battery,be it a faulty one,be it a 2.5 amp one,you need one to completer the circit,without battery it will not run.just think it as a car!

Choto Cheeta · 06-29-2010, 02:58 AM

excellent mod you have made..

sajjt · 06-29-2010, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SARAB_FI

ThE modification which is suggested by our mate can also be applicable to rtr fi?
As i guess there is a bit difference in electrical system as compare to carb models. because of inclusion of fi sytem (i.e ecu, dc fuel pump,sensors) and there is a big capacitor placed under the tank which is connected with electrical harness might be in connection with battery to store up electrical charge and to supports battery output.
My duvidha!!
If i rewind the coil and draws output from it( i guess it means i m drawing power from lighting coil only, correct me if m wrong) will there be any problem with fi system, like now if i remove my battery, the whole system ( including fuel pump) runs on magneto power only.
last month i convert all my lighting load to dc by tapping a wire from dc circuit(fuel pump ckt) but after two weeks battery's plates( charging capability becomes zero) gone due to fast draining of charges from battery, now i again switched to stock setup with ups battery of 9amp.

My question is this k if i increase its charging rate by only replacing stock RR with APE RR is it enough?

Dude, can u start an MPFI car without a batt? Its just like that u need a batt to power the fuel pump so there's no question of removing the batt and starting the engine. Once u convert everything to DC and the charging rates r improved there will not be any strain on ur batt and it will work smarter than stock condition.

What u've done is just a tapping of the existing stock DC to a halo which is not supported by the stock charging rates. And thats the role of APE RR and the coil rewinding, its capable of pumping in what ever it gets in the input end as there's no bottle neck limitations of 3A in the stock RR. APE RR will pump a max of 20A which is not possible to generate from a bike AFAIK.

If u dont rewind the coil, u can think of a max of an 35W HID/Halo. U cant upgrade the lights untill u rewind the coils, but being a FI engine its batt drain will be more than a carburated ones as the fuel pump will take extra power and to conclude, rewinding is a must.

rider60 · 07-18-2010, 07:13 PM

nice write up mate, this would serve as a manual for all the RTR owners who would want to upgrade their eletricals. i do intend to do this to my RTR 180 delivery due next month.

and i have a few questions regarding the same.

can some one tell me how to find out the copper wire being sold is of 19 guage, and how do i make sure the quality being sold is good?

i would want to eliminate the same by purchasing an OEM stator coil of another bike for the wire, which would ensure a 19 guage wire size and quality. And buy the rest of the OEM items as mentioned earlier.

or if there is another way of ensuring a 19 guage size and quality wire procurement, i mean if there another brand of wire seller or some way do tell me.

and if some one can explain the procedure of winding the wire, just so that, i can be sure the eletrician is doing the job right. at least the donts if not the dos regarding the same would be the same.

thank you for all the help in advance.

drvmtm · 07-18-2010, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rider60

nice write up mate, this would serve as a manual for all the RTR owners who would want to upgrade their eletricals. i do intend to do this to my RTR 180 delivery due next month.
i am honored.

.thank u
and i have a few questions regarding the same.

can some one tell me how to find out the copper wire being sold is of 19 guage, and how do i make sure the quality being sold is good?
its wriiten on the spool or the roll of the wire.also if you have a proper measuring caliper there is a outer diameter of the wire by which can tell its which gauge after removing the insulation.

i would want to eliminate the same by purchasing an OEM stator coil of another bike for the wire, which would ensure a 19 guage wire size and quality. And buy the rest of the OEM items as mentioned earlier.
one small prob mate.no oem coil will have 19 gauge wire.rest is ok,as your time will be saved also the bike will have no down time.also a winded wire when stripped out can have some cracks on its insulatin which can result is short.better to use brand new wire,oe even better use the help of professionals.

or if there is another way of ensuring a 19 guage size and quality wire procurement, i mean if there another brand of wire seller or some way do tell me.

and if some one can explain the procedure of winding the wire, just so that, i can be sure the eletrician is doing the job right. at least the donts if not the dos regarding the same would be the same.
simple,first pole clockwise,second is anti clock,then clock,then anti clock............
here is a picture,the only diff is you have all 8 poles toplay with...so the job is simple in apaches then pulsars....

wind neatly as possible.....see

thank you for all the help in advance.

hope this helps.

drvmtm · 07-19-2010, 09:29 AM

converted p 200 to full dc ,also bcu bypassed.done by friend fellow xbhpian bibek.
details coming soon.

06-27-2010, 05:33 PM	#11 (permalink)
drvmtm Doctor and GEARHEAD. Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Mylapore,CHENNAI........ Posts: 748	Some more info..... after installing the new rewinded coil,here are the things you can do to check as if its working properly or not. connect ape rr to the chassis bolt or in simple words ,just bolt it to mount on the body of motorcycle. connect the coil output to 2 grey ape rr wires,these are the ac input. connect the oem wiring from the coil containing various wires like-neutral/pulse coil wire/pickup coil wire.BE SURE NOT TO ADD THE OEM ELCTRICAL WIRES,AS THEY ARE MODIFIED AND YOU ALREADY CONNECTED TO APE RR S AC INPUT. connect the ape rr s output to battery directly.yellow to positive terminal,black to negative terminal,NOT THE GROUND THEN TO NEGATIVE,DIRECTLY TO BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL!! stop!! grab your trusty digital multimeter and check the dc voltage of the battery now take the readings and post it in the fo0llowing manner... when the engine is off- start the engine------- @1k-.................volts @2k-.................volts @3k-.................volts @4k-.................volts @5k-.................volts @6k-.................volts @7k-.................volts @8k-.................volts @9k-.................volts if the range is between 12 volts to 15.8 volts ,then the system is working properly.your charging is ok till now. BE SURE TO USE A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY OR YOU CAN GET SOME WEIRD READINGS!! to double check you can check the ampere rate also,. TURN THE BIKE OFF!!! set the digital multimeter to ampere mode. remove the ape rr s yellow wire from the battery connect it to dig multimeter s red wire and the black wire to battery .be sure the connections should be tight. start the bike.you should get a reading between 3-6 amps. if you are getting the above said readings then just you need to reroute the all the bikes electrical s PROPERLY with a help of professional electricians help. __________________ RIDE AND DRIVE SAFE AND PLEASE CHANGE THE PICTURE ON INDIAN ROADS. my thoughts,my area,my game....http://vmtm.blogspot.com/ IF YOU LOVE MAINTAINING YOUR RIDE..http://nexgenbikes.com/site/

06-27-2010, 09:08 PM	#12 (permalink)
SARAB_FI RtRing arnd!! Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: NEW DELHI Posts: 201	ThE modification which is suggested by our mate can also be applicable to rtr fi? As i guess there is a bit difference in electrical system as compare to carb models. because of inclusion of fi sytem (i.e ecu, dc fuel pump,sensors) and there is a big capacitor placed under the tank which is connected with electrical harness might be in connection with battery to store up electrical charge and to supports battery output. My duvidha!! If i rewind the coil and draws output from it( i guess it means i m drawing power from lighting coil only, correct me if m wrong) will there be any problem with fi system, like now if i remove my battery, the whole system ( including fuel pump) runs on magneto power only. last month i convert all my lighting load to dc by tapping a wire from dc circuit(fuel pump ckt) but after two weeks battery's plates( charging capability becomes zero) gone due to fast draining of charges from battery, now i again switched to stock setup with ups battery of 9amp. My question is this k if i increase its charging rate by only replacing stock RR with APE RR is it enough? __________________ BIKING ??? " A RELIGION "

07-18-2010, 07:13 PM	#18 (permalink)
rider60 Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 9	nice write up mate, this would serve as a manual for all the RTR owners who would want to upgrade their eletricals. i do intend to do this to my RTR 180 delivery due next month. and i have a few questions regarding the same. can some one tell me how to find out the copper wire being sold is of 19 guage, and how do i make sure the quality being sold is good? i would want to eliminate the same by purchasing an OEM stator coil of another bike for the wire, which would ensure a 19 guage wire size and quality. And buy the rest of the OEM items as mentioned earlier. or if there is another way of ensuring a 19 guage size and quality wire procurement, i mean if there another brand of wire seller or some way do tell me. and if some one can explain the procedure of winding the wire, just so that, i can be sure the eletrician is doing the job right. at least the donts if not the dos regarding the same would be the same. thank you for all the help in advance. Last edited by rider60; 07-18-2010 at 07:24 PM.

07-19-2010, 09:29 AM	#20 (permalink)
drvmtm Doctor and GEARHEAD. Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Mylapore,CHENNAI........ Posts: 748	converted p 200 to full dc ,also bcu bypassed. converted p 200 to full dc ,also bcu bypassed.done by friend fellow xbhpian bibek. details coming soon. __________________ RIDE AND DRIVE SAFE AND PLEASE CHANGE THE PICTURE ON INDIAN ROADS. my thoughts,my area,my game....http://vmtm.blogspot.com/ IF YOU LOVE MAINTAINING YOUR RIDE..http://nexgenbikes.com/site/

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06-29-2010, 02:58 AM	#16 (permalink)
Choto Cheeta Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 49	excellent mod you have made..

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