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Old 05-25-2009, 06:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Converted my Pulsar 150 Classic to ALL DC

Hi guys! My Pulsar 150 now runs on all DC. In stock condition, the headlight, tail lamp and pilot lamp (parking), console lamps runs on AC. Rest of the stuffs - horn, indicators, tachometer, brake lamp, tell tale lamps, fuel meter and the starter motor runs on DC through the battery. I converted all the AC stuffs to run on DC.

Advantages -
1. Nil Flickering at idle - constant brightness of headlight.
2. HID ready - can directly install HID in place of my 60/55W light. No battery draining issues.

The procedure is described below. Can be potentially adapted to any bikes.

Step 1

Prepare the AC to DC rectifier circuit. The circuit diagram is given below.



The above circuit is a standard bridge rectifier circuit. Use only parts mentioned above. Check for correct polarity of the diodes and the capacitors.

Thanks to rahuldevnath for helping me confirm the basic idea and provide the design of the circuit including choosing the exact components needed to build the circuit. He has this rectifier on this UGIII Pulsar 180.

My completed circuit -



Look at the circuit - the extra soldering is done so that it may dissipate some heat from the diodes. I recommend a 5K resistor between the capacitor pins to ensure safe discharge of the capacitor charge when not in use. I will be connecting the resistor shortly.



Make 2 DC wires.

Step 2

Now connect the wires as shown below.
You need to modify the wiring at two places -



At the first place separate the yellow wire from the connector of the RR unit. Now connect the wires from the custom built rectifier as shown below.



Step 3

Connect GND to the RR unit mounting bolt.

Step 4

At the second place, connect the another DC wire to the brown wire shown in the picture below. I used the brown wire at the relay. You can use the brown wire at any available point in the wiring. This brown wire is connected to the battery when the ignition is switched ON.



Step 5

Mount the rectifier as shown.




That's it. Look at my console! The engine is OFF.



Any questions - feel free to ask!
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Last edited by abhijeet080808; 05-25-2009 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Topic Approved
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Nice info there buddy.
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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well explained
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Congrats on completion

And thanks a lot to Rahul Devnath who helped in completion

Oops, you haven't used a Heat Sink??

Last edited by Shreeni0403; 05-25-2009 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreeni0403 View Post
Oops, you haven't used a Heat Sink??
Will test for a few days with this set up.

And cost of the circuit - below Rs. 200.
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:16 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Just In Case of Pulsar UG3 variants of 150, 180 and 200.

The BCU in these bike do not allow the bike to be on DC and make use of self starter simultaneously. Only way out is put a switch or a relay.



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Old 05-26-2009, 12:24 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Same Setup on my 180 UG3, with heat sinks. After final assembly. This box houses the above shown rectifier plus a relay specifically for UG3

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Old 05-26-2009, 10:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Nice info ther....
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Old 05-26-2009, 01:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
And cost of the circuit - below Rs. 200.
It didn't cost me even 50rs.

To be precise

6A4 - 3rs X 4 - 12rs
Capacitor 25v 4700uf - 15rs
Heat Sink - Plucked it from blown SMPS of my desktop
Plastic Tape and other things - 20rs
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