svjhonda

Its recommended that for dusty places the air filter element of the R15 be cleaned more frequently. Plus I like the crisp throttle response of a clean air filter. So here's how to clean the air filter anytime you want!

Precautions:
1) Don't let any dust inside the air box once the filter is removed.
2) Don't wash or wet the paper filter. Its the dry type, and should never be wet.
3) The air box screws and threads are delicate. Don't over-tighten them or use force.
4) Tap the air filter lightly on the floor, don't drop it or bang it!
5) Be careful of the electrical and fuel hose connections under the fuel tank while you are moving it. Don't raise/pull it extra-high, or you'll end up dislodging a power/fuel connection underneath.

Tools needed for the work:
1) A + headed (Philips) screwdriver (the one in the toolkit won't do, it doesn't fit the air box screws very well)
2) A 5mm allen key (provided in the toolkit)
3) An air compressor, or an air blower

Procedure:
Remove the 4 screws that fix the fuel tank. You'll need to use the 5mm allen key. Two screws are at the top, near the steering ball racer. The other two are hidden under the seat, so remove the seat as well. The top two screws hold a small triangular-ish metal plate under it. Carefully remove it.

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Then lift the tank, turn it 40 degrees clockwise and rest it on the top of the deltabox chassis.


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You'll see the airbox below it.


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Remove the 4 screws for the airbox with the screwdriver. They are a little hard. Once they're removed, take off the top cover. You'll see the airfilter fixed in a groove. Remove it, put the cover back on the airbox (dont put the screws in) and rest the tank on top of the airbox cover.


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Now the paper/fabric side of the airfilter traps dust. Air is sucked in through this end, and out from the other side (the one with the metal plate) Tap the airfilter lightly a couple of times on the floor with the paper mesh facing downwards. Any loose dust will dislodge and come off.


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To clean it properly, you can use an air compressor if you have one, or a blower (some vaccum machines come with this option) or like I use, an air-sofa inflation device. If its compressed air, then hold the filter at a distance, because the pressurized air can tear the paper mesh. But if its just normal air, you can hold the filter close to the nozzle. Blow air into the metal side of the filter, so that it reverses the process, taking particles out and away from the paper mesh. Keep tapping it and using the blower for at least 3-4 times.


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Finally fix the filter back into the air box groove with the paper (yellow) side facing up, fix the top cover back, screw it in place, re-align the tank, screw it in place. That's it! Start the bike and listen for easier breathing and sharper throttle response.....!!

Points of note:
Just make sure the filter and the air box cover fit properly and securely into the groove. There is a rubber sheath towards the top of the air box that sometimes comes in the way, and the filter does not seat properly. So watch out for that. Also make sure the air box intake vents are not covered or obstructed.

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Old Fox

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It is suggested that the person doing any maintenance work on a vehicle should wear shoes. Being bare-foot exposes the feet to possible injury.

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jd666

i would like to add, that at the time of rotating the tank clockwise to place it, better to check the fuel pipe and the level sensor cables, that they are not getting stuck or in a position where they will get damaged. Also the tank can/might fall off, better to either remove it completely if working alone, or get someone to hold it on the bike for the duration of the work. Good job SVJ.

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Sarvajit

Good initiative there!
I notice that you have kept the tank there itself, while the SVC guys remove the tank entirely&keep it aside, so as to avoid it from slipping&falling off.
Your method is simple, since you do not need to disconnect the tank, but the range of movement is limited&also the danger of the tank falling off.

It would be great if you put up some pics of the fuel pump below&how to remove its connection, so that the tank can safely be kept on a flat surface.

I would like to add one more word of caution to those who are planning to keep the tank aside: Be careful while disconnecting the fuel pump, else that would set you back by about Rs.7,000!

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svjhonda

Disconnecting the tank is not exactly tedious, but its a hassle with about 8-10 liters of fuel inside. This time I tried to remove the connections underneath, but could not because the tank was heavy. I use the temporary main stand now, so the bike is always level and there is no chance of the tank falling off or slipping. The stand comes for 200 bucks (Its an RX100 temporary stand) and is great for such DIY.

And I always work alone. And will wear shoes next time onwards.

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TnT

^
Luckily my brother holds the tank for me when I turn it, so there's no danger of it falling.

I noticed a thin layer of dust inside the airbox so I mopped it up with a slightly damp lint free cloth.

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alimur_r

Very nice post n all the pictures are helpful..
thanks in advance..
but i have a query like how often air filter need to be cleaned?? (after what km)?
i know it depends on dust but still tell me the approx km??
my bike is only 800km used..so should i clean it after 1k km??
thanks

svjhonda

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I do this every 300kms. It keeps the throttle crisp, and the feel of the bike consistent. Plus the areas I ride are very dusty, with roads dug up.

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Dr. Speed

there's no need for any extra screw driver (Philips one u mentioned), as the screw driver that comes with tool kit works nicely, without causing any hassle..

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I'd also like to add another point. once after you've used the compressed air to clean the filter, again tap it on a flat surface to clear out the now dislodged dust particles. do this 2 or 3 times and you'll be amazed at how mush amount of dust you've missed the first time you used the compressed air!

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