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Nothing like getting your hands dirty and feeling the metal. Look in here for ways to work on your motorcycles yourself, or if you have a DIY to share then do it here as wel!

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Old 02-18-2010, 02:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andante View Post
I would like to raise awareness about one thing. In the pictures for this DIY procedure, we see the topic starter handling kerosene, diesel and petrol with his bare hands. All of these fluids contain substances that can penetrate the skin and cause irritation or worse.

See also MSDS sheets: Kerosene, Diesel, Petrol

So please do not handle any of these fuels with your bare hands!
A pretty valid point raised here. Handling of kerosene with bare hands can cause problems, especially if there's a cut or a wound involved. Skin irritation is mild though in most cases. Mainly because all these three tend to dissolve our natural skin oils that help retain skin moisture and also keep it supple. With no protective oil layer, the skin dries up, feels stiff and suffers from micro-cracks. But this is not something serious or lasting. Most detergents can also cause the same problems and we don't end up using gloves for all our chores involving potential dermi-irritants.

Those with well defined allergies would do good to use protection. The majority of us can easily handle limited exposure to petrol, kerosene and diesel on our skins. All who ride bikes do end up handling petrol inadvertently sometime or the other anyway. Just that after using any of these three, it is important to wash hands properly with soap and water and then apply some skin cream or any oil, coconut, mustard or even cooking oil on the skin. A complete embargo like 'never handle any of these with bare hands' is not only impractical but also an over-reaction to a known and manageable hazard.

All said and done though, I would recommend eye protection to be worn during any and every maintenannce work that is undertaken. Broken metal/plastic chips, dirt flung up by a cleaning brush, soapy water splashed inadvertently, acid fumes from a rapidly charging battery, any of the above mentioned fuels getting splashed into the eye....any of these can mean trouble for an organ as delicate, sensitive and vital as the eyes. Those who wear specs get this bonus benefit. Others can use clear lenses. But eye-protection is a must.
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Old 02-18-2010, 05:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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A complete embargo like 'never handle any of these with bare hands' is not only impractical but also an over-reaction to a known and manageable hazard.

All said and done though, I would recommend eye protection to be worn during any and every maintenannce work that is undertaken. Broken metal/plastic chips, dirt flung up by a cleaning brush, soapy water splashed inadvertently, acid fumes from a rapidly charging battery, any of the above mentioned fuels getting splashed into the eye....any of these can mean trouble for an organ as delicate, sensitive and vital as the eyes. Those who wear specs get this bonus benefit. Others can use clear lenses. But eye-protection is a must.
I totally agree that this is a known and manageable hazard and yes, wearing protection while handling any of these is impractical. However, knowing the lax attitude that is displaying in some cases, I do think it's important to promote avoiding exposure. That was the goal of what I was writing, perhaps I overstated my post.

Also the thing to remember is to make sure your work area is well ventilated, clean and organized.

(Perhaps a thread about DIY safety would be an idea?)
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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IHowever, knowing the lax attitude that is displaying in some cases, I do think it's important to promote avoiding exposure. That was the goal of what I was writing, perhaps I overstated my post.

Also the thing to remember is to make sure your work area is well ventilated, clean and organized.

(Perhaps a thread about DIY safety would be an idea?)
Agreed about promoting caution. And about the work area being well ventilated, clean and organised.

And yes, a DIY thread on general hands-on maintenance safety is a good idea. I suggest you start something like that with as many points as you can put in. Relevant inputs can be added to it from time to time.
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Old 03-06-2010, 02:13 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The filter appeared dirtier when you were using 90 weight oil since almost all the filtering was happening at or very close to the top surface of the foam where most of the oil was. The viscous 90 weight oil didn't go deeper. If you'd looked closer, most of the dirt would be on the air-box side and very little on the engine side. And if you'd cut up the dirty foam (don't waste a perfectly good filter just for that though ), you would find the core area to be pretty clean. With a less viscous oil the filtering would occur right through the thickness of the foam.

Another effect of a thicker oil is that since most of the filtering is done at the surface, it clogs up sooner and starts acting as a hindrance to the airflow. So in effect, you have a shorter service life of the filter before it needs cleaning again.
Thanks for the clarification Sir. This time i have used 2T oil on the filter & i can see that the service life has increased considerably under the same riding conditions.
I guess even if fine droplets of the oil enter the chamber, 2T oil would burn much easily than 90 weight oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andante View Post
I would like to raise awareness about one thing. In the pictures for this DIY procedure, we see the topic starter handling kerosene, diesel and petrol with his bare hands. All of these fluids contain substances that can penetrate the skin and cause irritation or worse.

See also MSDS sheets: Kerosene, Diesel, Petrol

So please do not handle any of these fuels with your bare hands!
Thanks for raising the safety issue Andante. I would be updating the post suitably.
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Old 03-10-2010, 02:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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On the P220s,a blinking air filter sensor doesn't necessarily mean that the air filter in unclean,it might be improperly inserted OR maybe you need to change the foam.

The SVC guys will force you into buying a new sensor for 300 but just change the foam and it will work
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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i will add here one more thing.
for any series of pulsar use the t spanner with caution specially while tightening.
why? well the bolts are mounted on plastic air box and pulsars air box are very notorious to get cracked at the edge where the bolt is bolted.so moderate twist is well enough to secure this.mind this ,if the plastic breaks,the whole set of the air box need to be changed.

also in ug 3 s service manual from bajaj says use of kerosene and 20w 40 oil only,diesel is not mentioned on service book.
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Old 03-14-2010, 05:04 PM   #17 (permalink)
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very well explained with diagrams
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Old 05-31-2010, 04:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Default Petrol For Cleaning

I Have a pulsar 180 classic and the last time i took for servicing to a service center of bajaj the mech used petrol from my tank to clean my air filter.
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Old 06-28-2010, 12:04 AM   #19 (permalink)
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On the subject of air filter oils, I would just like to say that I have found, at least with motorcross/enduro bikes which are subjected to a lot more dust, that the best oil is simply air filter oil, normally available from dealers. It is specially formulated, extra tacky but penetrates well through the filter and doesn't restrict airflow.

However, my motorcycle maintenance improved no end after I discovered BIODEGRADABLE air filter oil, such as Notoil oil (No Toil Biodegradable Filter Oil). In summer I clean my air filter once a week, and I have found No Toil to be the greatest improvement to my weekly motorcycle maintenance. Not only it is obviously much better for the environment, but it also does a great job at filtering dust particles, and allows you not to mess about with solvents such as petrol when cleaning the filter, which is such a great benefit... You can use normal washing machine powder to clean your filter! If anything like it is available in India, then it's definitely worth looking into it.

Interestingly foam air filter manufacturers, such as Twin Air, do not recommend cleaning their filters with petrol because offroad bike air filters often comprise of two or three pieces of foam glued together, and petrol can damage the glue and expose unfiltered air into the engine. Again, I can stop praising biodegradable filter oils...
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Old 06-28-2010, 01:21 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Default to clean sensor

Hi all,

First of all hands to rahul for presenting us a superb guide on how to clean the filter.
And the most important thing i did it myself yesterday..

I would like to know one more thing.In the article you have mentioned to clean the sensor.May i know how can i do that?I have cleaned the filter but the sensor blinks at intervals.
Waiting for your reply...
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