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Do it Yourself!
Nothing like getting your hands dirty and feeling the metal. Look in here for ways to work on your motorcycles yourself, or if you have a DIY to share then do it here as wel!

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Old 04-29-2010, 04:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anirudh fz1 View Post
i wanted to post the same but changed my mind after thinking how many people actually service their own bike .anyways nice to see that someone did it.
some points which the kind person who posted this might have missed out

-engine oil filter is to be changed every 10000kms only for the fz16/fazer(manual).

-the tools given in the bike toolkit is not enough for this job,dont use the
given spanners and strip the nuts as i did ,same applies to the main bolt .
please BUY a complete tool kit.

-bike engine has to be super hot for all the oil to drain out,so it means the oil coming out will also be super hot,so plz use good gloves or you will get burnt BADLY.

-lastly read the manual thoroughly before doing any of this .

i have already completed the first 3 services myself.if some one requests here i will do the airfilter clean and spark plug service and rear brake change post.
rear brake plz
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Old 04-29-2010, 10:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Great job, but one ques did it contained anything plastic type when you opened the drain oil nut cuz when(am talking abt P135) I was draining some plastic type stick was stuck in there and when it tightened the nut some breaking noise came but I didnt opened it back as it had new oil in it.
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Old 05-02-2010, 12:56 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It is good that YAMAHA bikes are coming with easy approach to oil filter. In other bikes it is quite difficult ( so avoid by mechanics often) to approach the centrifugal oil filter.
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Old 05-03-2010, 06:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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How do you open the engine oil drain nut? Presumably it's done from the left side of the bike since the right side has the exhaust pipe running close to the nut.
Which way should the wrench move? Towards you (counter clockwise)? Or away from you (clockwise)?
I am turning the wrench towards me (which would be counterclockwise for the nut). Spent 2 hours trying to get the bloody nut off my Gladiator but it wont budge a bit.

EDIT:Nevermind.I found out. The wrench should be turned towards the front of the bike if you are sitting on the left side facing forwards.
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Last edited by nightwing; 05-09-2010 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 05-12-2010, 11:40 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Guys a problem while changing the engine oil bolt... today i tried to change the engine oil and used the 17" spanner in the tool kit for opening the bolt/nut under the engine... the bolt was really tight so that i could not open it and by fiddling with it caused the thread of the engine went kaput... took the bike SVC and they told to repair the thread which will cost ~200RS/-
My question is that for opening the bolt does we need any other tool? or is it possible with the 17" spanner in the tool kit?
if it need another tool which one is suitable and how much it will cost?

Thanks...
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Old 05-12-2010, 11:04 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Binoy View Post
Guys a problem while changing the engine oil bolt... today i tried to change the engine oil and used the 17" spanner in the tool kit for opening the bolt/nut under the engine... the bolt was really tight so that i could not open it and by fiddling with it caused the thread of the engine went kaput... took the bike SVC and they told to repair the thread which will cost ~200RS/-
My question is that for opening the bolt does we need any other tool? or is it possible with the 17" spanner in the tool kit?
if it need another tool which one is suitable and how much it will cost?

Thanks...
I hope they didnt put M-Seal on it? Because that's what I heard from a mechanic when I told him that I nearly messed the threads on the engine.
What we need is a 'Torque Wrench' for easy removal of the bolt. I havent seen it on sale anywhere though.
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:20 AM   #17 (permalink)
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you have to use a 17 ring spanner and 8 ring spanner for engine bolts,
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Old 05-17-2010, 04:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I hope they didnt put M-Seal on it? Because that's what I heard from a mechanic when I told him that I nearly messed the threads on the engine.
What we need is a 'Torque Wrench' for easy removal of the bolt. I havent seen it on sale anywhere though.

If you need a torque wrench I can help you in finding Torque wrench supplier
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Old 06-16-2010, 10:31 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Wouldn't we really need to use the torque wrench? What happens if the drain bolt is torqued too tight?
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:27 PM   #20 (permalink)
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hi there.. nice job on how to change the engine oil . can someone please put up similar pictorial instructions on how to adjust the headlights..and set the low and high appropriately...would be helpful
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