Dr. Speed

A Brief INTRO:-
The term "bleeding the brakes" refers to the process in which a small valve is opened at the caliper (or wheel cylinder) to allow controlled amounts of brake fluid to escape the system.
We bleed the brakes to release air that sometimes becomes trapped within the lines. Technically, "air" only enters the lines if there is a compromise of the system's sealing (as when flex lines are removed or replaced), because when fluid boils, it will instead create "fluid vapor." Vapor in the brake fluid, like air, will create an efficiency loss in the braking system. However, for the sake of simplicity the term "air" is used.

Tools Needed:
# Screw Driver
# Size 8 crescent wrench
# Allen wrench
# Rag Cloth
# Bottle of either DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid
(R15 comes with DOT 4 brake fluid as stock, so if u r just bleeding ur brakes, make sure to use DOT 4 brake fluid. However, if u r completely replacing brake fluid, u can use either of 2)

# CAUTION--> DO NOT USE A MIX OF THESE 2 BRAKE FLUIDS IN YOUR BIKE.



Working on Front Brake
Front brake is much easier to work with, and job can be completed within a couple of minutes.

Procedure:
1. Remove the screws from Front brake master cyllinder. (There are 2 screws, can be easily removed using the screw driver that comes with bike's tool kit)
2. Remove the black colored plastic cover over the master cyllinder, and take out the remaining 2 pieces of assembly.

# There are 3 pieces in all, that form the cover of front master cyllinder. 1st comes black plastic cover; next is transparent/clear plastic piece and finally the rubber piece.

3. Next, remove the rubber cap over bleeder screw on front brake calliper, and expose the same.

# ideally--> get a clear pipe/tube that fits snuggly onto the bleeder screw, and keep its other end in an empty waste bottle. Otherwise, keep a rag cloth around mouth of bleeder screw to prevent brake fluid from spilling over onto surrounding parts of bike.
# Clear pipe/tube also helps to inspect brake fluid for presence of air bubbles and is therefore beneficial.

4. Loosen the bleeder screw by turning it about 1/4th a circle using a size 8 crescent wrench. You will see brake fluid coming out.

# If you are completely replacing ur brake fluid, its a good idea to fill the front master cyllinder to the brim with new brake fluid before you loosen the bleeder screw.

5a. For bleeding; pull the brake lever completely. You will see brake fluid squirt out of bleeder screw. Keep holding the brake lever completely and tighten the bleeder screw. Release the brake lever.

# It can be done alone, but is much easier if u hav someone to help u out.

# DO NOT RELEASE THE BRAKE LEVER WITH BLEEDER SCREW OPEN. IT CAN SUCK IN AIR AND DEGRADE BRAKING.

5b. Replace the covers on front brake master cyllinder in the order u removed them and tighten the screws.





For completely replacing the brake fluid,
u need to repeatedly pull brake lever so that entire old brake fluid is squirted out of the braking system.

IMPORTANT
# YOU WILL NEED TO KEEP RE-FILLING THE FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLLINDER WITH NEW FLUID. IT MUST NEVER GET EMPTIED. OTHERWISE AIR CAN GET IN YOUR BRAKE HOSE.

# NEVER RELEASE BRAKE LEVER WITH BLEEDER SCREW LOOSE. IT WILL SUCK IN AIR INTO BRAKING SYSTEM AND DEGRADE BRAKING.

# WHEN USING A DIFFERENT GRADE BRAKE FLUID FOR REPLACING BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR BIKE, YOU MUST MAKE SURE THAT ENTIRE AMOUNT OF OLD BRAKE FLUID HAS BEEN REMOVED FROM YOUR BRAKING SYSTEM.
---> to make sure that all of old fluid has been removed, watch the bleeder screw as u keep pulling brake lever. Pull the brake lever a couple of times more even when u see only new fluid coming out of it to be on the safer side.

# DO NOT APPLY TO MUCH FORCE WHILE LOOSENING OR TIGHTENING THE BLEEDER SCREW. DO NOT TURN THE BLEEDER SCREW TOO MUCH WHEN LOOSENING IT, about 1/4th a circle is enough.

# BRAKE FLUIDS ARE CHEMICALS THAT CAN HARM YOU, YOUR BIKE AND ANY AREA OVER WHERE THEY SPILL.
--> wipe off any spills with a rag cloth immediately..

Working on Rear Brake
procedure is exactly similar as for front brake...

NOTES:-

# Remove the right side panel (with Deltabox sticker).
there is one screw and one nut holding it.
Screw is on the underside while nut is exposed on removing the seat.





# For Ease of Working, displace the tank:-
There are 4 allen nuts holding the tank, 2 on the side, behind the nut for side panel, and 2 in front; seen behind handle-bars...





Again Similar caution as for front brake is essential to make sure u get ur brakes as good as new and not ruin them...
And if u can get a friend to help u out with the job, especially to hold down the brake lever/pedal as u tighten the bleeder screw makes working slightly easier...
This JOB CAN BE EASILY DONE ALONE AS WELL...

Another word of CAUTION:-
# DO NOT KEEP BRAKE FLUID BOTTLE OPEN FOR TOO LONG. IT HAS TENDENCY TO ABSORB MOISTURE and GETS DEGRADED.
Same applies for brake fluid in your brake's master cyllinder.. Make sure u finish the job quickly and place the covers making sure they seal properly...

It hardly takes 2-3minutes on a single brake for bleeding it.. about 4-5 minutes if u replacing brake fluid completely...

Only thing u need to buy from market is a bottle of brake fluid...
i got a DOT 3 brake fluid bottle (250ml) for Rs. 65/-

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4 wheels move the body, 2 wheels move the SOUL..

Aryan

DIY Thread Approved.

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som88

A good tip to optimize the whole process is to take a piece of pipe to match the size of the bleeder nipple and then draining the fluid through the pipe, to completely eliminate the en-trailed air, take a small container and pour in a little brake fluid in it and then immerse the other end of the pipe into the fluid and keep bleeding till all air is removed.

This process ensures that no air enters the bleeder valve when the hand lever is released. Tried and tested method (bled all 4 brakes of my baja vehicle this way)

and no fluid is spilt!

Instead of DOT3 go in for DOT 4, a little costlier but better.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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PRATIK322

Very nice Diy indeed. And very helpful.. Must say that you have done a great DIY wherein you kept the interesting things more interested by your elaborated pics which are GR8 GR8 help .. nice work bro .
Keep the good work coming...

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yellowspunk

could someone also explain the refilling part. as in how to not get air inside when filling it up and how to properly seal it the cylinder

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Ganeshan

Just a few other points relating to brake fluid I thought might be of interest.

A good tip to find out if your brake fluid needs changing is to look at its colour. If it looks like tea (black tea...) then it's time to change it. New brake fluid should be clear. If not, it already got contaminated somehow.

I recently changed brake fluid on a friend's bike who had waited so long that his brake fluid looked like dark expresso coffee!! It got so bad that a few expensive components in the system needed replacing as a result... DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid should be changed every two years. That's the way to maintain your brake system components in tip top condition.

DOT4 has a higher temperature rating than DOT3, but it is okay to mix them in case you can't get the right one at hand. They are compatible due to their common makeup. All that happens by mixing them is that you change the fluid temperature rating, up or down depending on how they are mixed. So, if you use DOT3 in your superbike, ideally you shouldn't take it on a track until you refill with DOT4. But if you mix DOT4 in a DOT3 system, or change from DOT3 to DOT4, then it's only better.

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raymegeo

can you point out commonly available DOt4 fluid across india.
Only castrol/KBX brand of DOt3 are seen.

BOND_001

dot4 kbx is available.

makak8889

i followed the same method on my p220,bt still my brake looks spongy, n soft, the lever needs to b presed,more thn normal for effective braking,wht do i do nw?

raymegeo

Try tying the front brake level with a heavy duty elastic band and leave it overnight, almost all the air would be out bynow.
I have stripped almost all of the front brake parts except the calliper piston and its dust seal on my unicorn.
What I learned is a new brake pad from honda other than the one that came along the motorbike when it was new is of poor quality. The spring at the end of the master cylinder just disintegrate too fast nad breaks.

And for rear 130mm drum, use the front brake shoe of splendour(asbestos base). the regular honda one is non-asbestos type and a dead one.