Omega Man

Hi All,

It’s been a long time since I have been here.

Wanted to clean and lube the drive chain today. Checked out a few threads & posts on xBhp but, decided to come up with my own, simple yet effective DIY for cleaning the P220 O-ring chain. Some pictures are attached for your convenience.

Important: Wear safety gloves & eye wear and keep your fingers away from moving sprocket.

Follow these instructions when the engine is cool.

1) Place bike on main stand, fire-up engine, and shift to first gear.

2) Spray WD-40 generously between the link plates and not just on the rollers and pins.
Note: hold a cardboard in a manner that it shields the rear disc from any overspray from both the WD-40 spray can and the lubricant spray can later.

* Best position for spraying is the back of the rear sprocket, one side of the chain, at a time.
* Use the light green colored chain split link lock as an indicator for each loop cycle of the chain.
* Let the wheel rotate with engine running in first gear on main stand for a few minutes.
* This helps WD-40 to penetrate the dirt and grime on the chain.
* Using WD-40 when the chain is cool prevents it from penetrating the O-Rings.

3) Kill engine and shift to neutral.

4) Use a discarded toothbrush to scrub on, below and between the chain link plates to remove all dirt.

5) Fire-up engine again and shift to first gear.

6) Spray WD-40 generously between the link plates, this time, till it starts dripping.

7) Let the chain rotate in first gear on main stand for another few minutes.

8) You can run the engine in high gear on main stand for a few minutes.

* This will forcefully remove excess WD-40, muck, dirt, grime and slime on and in between the chain link plates.

9)Switch off the engine and put the bike in neutral.

10) Wipe clean chain with an absorbent cotton cloth sprayed with WD-40.

* The lettering in bold is for those following instructions 9-12 consecutively.

Important: Keep your fingers away from moving sprocket.

* After the static high-gear run, the engine gets hot and the chain gets warm.

11) Kill engine and shift to neutral.

12) Lubricate with your choice of chain lube, in between each chain link plate while chain is still warm.

* Best position for lubrication is the back of the main sprocket, one side of the chain, at a time.
* Use the light green colored chain split link lock as an indicator for each loop cycle of the chain.
* Let the lube soak-in as it cools overnight, the lube penetrates better.
* If you do not want to lube the chain frequently, use EP140 gear oil.
* Use EP90 gear oil if you can spare some time to lube your chain regularly.

Please note:

* For really dirty chains and those who have used chain sprays and grease, use steps 1-12 just the first time.
* Thereafter, use steps 9-12 at regular odometer intervals.
* For new bikes and clean chains, follow steps 9-12 only at regular odometer intervals.
* Follow these instructions at regular intervals of your odometer reading just as an oil change interval.
* Follow this chain maintenance procedure to always keep your O-Ring chain clean and optimized.

Important tips:

* Using discarded engine oil on your O-Ring chain shows poor disregard for an important component of your bike.
* Apply chain lube after a ride, while the chain is warm, and soaks in as it cools.
* Keep in mind that the lube has to cling-on specifically to the O-Rings and the chain in general.
* The O-Rings should ideally be moist with lube for the chain to perform optimally.
* WD in WD-40 stands for water displacement, same as in moisture removal.
* WD-40 is used as cleaner and not as lubricant; when the chain is cool, to prevent penetration inside the O-Rings.
* After cleaning and thoroughly wiping off WD-40, the chain is sufficiently lubed.
* Keep the lube & cleaner away from the tire rubber, alloys, brake disc & pads.
* Do not use any abrasive solvents, detergents, scrubs or metallic brushes on the chain.
* Diesel is definitely preferable over Kerosene.
* Do not grease an O-Ring chain.
* Most chain lube sprays are, lube based super sticky glues or so they seem (in my opinion).
* Just as engine oil is changed at regular odometer intervals, the chain should be lubed too at similar intervals.
* O-Ring chains are factory lubed internally and sealed.
* Its better to follow the recommendations of an O-Ring chain manufacturer than that of a bike manufacturer.
* Any lube that is not too sticky and gummy like the Bajaj chain spray is preferable.

The above instructions, coupled with the images attached below, are simple, straight forward and don’t involve any messy procedures. You don't need to use WD-40, just be certain that whatever you choose to use is an "O-Ring safe" cleaner. I have also specifically mentioned the use of any lube of your choice.
I realised I should have taken some pictures after I finished the task and took the bike for a ride. I was amazed at the difference it made. No more jingling chain sound and it seemed super smooth. Will post a picture of the drive chain atleast now. Looks like new and performs amazingly well. The only place you will find traces of oil still clinging on, is between the two links on the O-rings.

One more important point, in my opinion, this is also the safest, fastest and cleanest procedure. (Except for the dripping WD-40, a blackened toothbrush & cloth)

List of the items used:

a) Safety glasses which I already had.
b) Safety gloves for Rs.51/-
c) Lint free cloth for Rs.15/- * Youcould use a large sized sponge too - same price.
d) Small WD-40 can for Rs.55/-
e) HP EP90 Gear Oil for Rs.81/- for 500ml.

Two questions for all of you:

Q1) What can be an ideal lube for an O-ring drive chain? That's of course apart from all those lubricating sprays like Zorrick & WD-40, all chain sprays and all gear oils!!!

Q2) What would be the most important function of a o-ring drive chain lube apart from lubricating the chain?

Hope this helps.

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Old Fox

DIY topic approved

Omega Man: Useful info there. Thanks. In case this and the diagrams above come from another website, a link to that would not only give the originator due credit but will also help members here get some additional info that might be available there.

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Drifty

Very informative DIY topic.Let's see what is the answer of the above two questions.

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beastlover

good informative article describing each step nicely...
although i blv.. i v use.. oil (normal gear oil) it do attract the dust a lot hence make the chain filthy very early???
even i was putting oil in my chain .. but recently changed over to motul chain lube.. which give the same reslt as gear oil without making it dirty looking..? but yes it quite costly in market.. hence couldnt b a option to many.. but yes quality comes with price..!!
i follow simple procdre..
1. clean the chain.. with anti rust/anti durt spray.
2. if required use a cloth to wipe the dirt off
3. let it get dry in shade
4. put the chain lube and the result chain is ready to roll..
5. go for a shorty.. and ur done..
but yes i do go for delinking of chain every 2.5k kilomtrs, washin it thoroughly in diesel/kerosene and then putting the chain lube.

Ganeshan

A word of caution: cleaning O-ring chains with WD 40 is a controversial subject. As I explained in another related post, many people claim (rightly IMO) that WD40 penetrates past the o-rings and dissolves the grease that is sealed behind, drying them from the inside out (washing out the lube that is sealed inside).

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aargee

Though I don't have modern day's motorcycle that requires special lubricants to clean up chain, I've a question though on them.

Why is a WD40 being suggested to clean up the chain? Why not something like a chain cleaner from Motul or Wurth? Is there any specific reason with WD40?

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Old Fox

The concerns voiced about excessive use of de-greasers/moisture sealants like WD40 are quite relevant. Though there's no conclusive evidence that the WD 40 carries away most of the lubricating grease packed inside an O-ring chain, this sure could be one negative effect after repeated and long term use as such. It is assumed that WD 40 contains a certain fraction of mineral oil as part of its ingredients and that could be the saving grace with it.

Chain-cleaning solvents, as suggested by aargee could also cause the same problem as usually all aerosol sprays need some volatile solvent dissolved in the primary chemical to keep the mixture spray-able over long periods and across a wide range of ambient temperatures. And these solvents usually have a de-greasing effect allied to them.

Ideally a mix of 1 part engine oil (say SAE 40) and 3 parts kerosene would make for a good chain cleaning agent. But the idea of cleaning is actually to clean the chain externals and get that micro-dust out from between the link plates. So overuse of any solvent or too enthusiastic an effort to clean the chain is not really needed. And being regular with cleaning will preclude the need for going overboard with cleaning solvents anyway.

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Puneet1

here is a interesting link i had bookmarked on O rings and wd 40 use on them PART II WD-40 O-ring exposure effect results - ADVrider

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Omega Man

Dear Old Fox,

Thank you indeed for your prompt approval.

The above article is entirely my own work and I did not copy nor read any of the instructions mentioned above from any website.

Like my signature goes: "Think, think, think out of the box".

As for the pictures, I wanted to show some graphic images for a better understanding of the chain components, so I searched for "o-ring chain" on Google Images, and found some low resolution pictures, and uploaded them.

Thanks again for your complements and approval.

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pavanchirmade

Does the Diesel and gear oil routine work on the O ring chains as well?

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