timi

After all the Dc conversion procedures scattered out in XBHP, i came upon the idea to start a new thread that encompasses all the ideas from many talented geeks out there...to a more suitable user friendly thread.

I will demonstrate a method which when successfully modded will enable automatic Dc conversion and in the nick of time "all mods can be brought to company specs!". This was the main aim for me and the unstable headlight, which had varied light output at low RPM, is a thing of the past.

%%%Knowledge in basic electronic soldering and know-how is appreciated%%%
Tools required:
*Common board
*Soldering iron and solder
*6A4 power diodes(4) and 2 amp diodes(4)
*3300uF and 1000uF 25V capacitor(1)
*SPST switch
*Toggle switch--3 contacts
*Lots of heavy duty wire
*Any color LED with 330ohm resistor
*12V 5 amp Relay
*Insulation tape(good quality)


The principle(Working)

The system works by mainly tapping the yellow wire from the Stock RR(Rectifier-Regulator) unit to the BCU(through stock wiring) providing a toggle switch in between, to switch from regular connection to the modified wiring. The basic working can easily be studied from my detailed diagram posted. The current flow is shown in the diagram as arrows. On the event of toggling the switch to Modified section, the yellow wire(carrying regulated AC) is bridge rectified and supplied to battery. While the wire to BCU is supplied a DC voltage through the help of a relay.
Now the relay....which is an electromagnetic switch....needs DC voltage for excitation, so we provide the AC from stock rectifier+rectify it and supply to relay coil. Now the relay gets activated and the Dc supply gets routed to the wire to BCU(yellow).
A direct DC switch in form of SPST switch is also provided to enable direct supply from battery to the AC system in vehicle even in event of ENGINE OFF condition(be careful the battery can drain down pretty quick in this mode).

So, in general we take the regulated AC from the RR unit and use it for charging the battery along with the stock charging by the Stock RR unit(to provide more juice to battery). While Dc from battery is fed to the AC Wiring core of the bike(i.e to the BCU yellow wire).

* Now the relay used here is for auto switching to DC system in the starting of the bike. The BCU in Pulsar UGIII's won't allow the electric starter to switch to DC, thus the relay will make that possible!

Verification
I have tried this setup for more than a month....not at all a problem till now. Now using Philips 55/60W halogen. Very good illumination indeed and flicker free performance.

Tips

#Assemble the rectifier for battery charging with a heat sink for heat removal.
#Check for charger working by measuring battery terminals with a mutimeter in ENGINE ON and HEADLIGHT ON condition for charging to be proper at 4000rpm.(13.5-14.5 V).
# Use household gauge wire for Battery connections from rectifier unit.
# Mount the toggle switch up front so that we can toggle them at ease.


Mounted pictures will be added soon.

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Noor

DIY Approved

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princesirohi

please post a high resolution, bigger size image of circuit diagram, it is not readable.

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ripper

I kinda liked the idea. But me being a 0 in electronics, it looks difficult to replicate with little knowledge in this department. I suggest you post pics of the actual mod so that a lot of people could benefit from it. A step by step pictorial presentation would be great. Thanks anyway!

pavanchirmade

There is already a very detailed thread by abhijeet080808, Rahuldevnath and Shreeni about the very same mod.

abhijeet080808 [Pulsar 150 Classic] Converted my Pulsar 150 Classic to ALL DC

Rahuldevnath [Pulsar 180UGIII] [he is the pioneer of this mod on this forum]

Shreeni0403 [Unicorn] Unicorn converted to DC Headlight. Help to increase battery charging rate.

My thread [P180UGIII] Relays & DC headlights


IMO this is not a very good mod as the stock Pulsar RR cannot take much load and resulted into this on my bike https://picasaweb.google.com/pavan.chirmade/ShitHappens

The RR conks off and gives out excessive voltage as the regulator part fails early. the excessive voltage burns the custom rectifier. So much that there was actually a fire. I was using high temperature resistant wires and a 30A rated packaged bridge rectifier which is supposed to be very robust. But when it all caught fire nothing remained of the rectifier.The fire was quite nasty and ate the left side of the seat cowl.

I don't recommend this mod to newbies. The more stable mod is the APE RR + Rewinding one.

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timi

Of course i will post the new pics as soon as possible and further 1by 1 steps.

timi

A rectifier is used to provide a DC(constant) output derived from an AC(varying) source.
We need: Diodes(4) and a capacitor.

Solder the diodes as shown in the diagram.The diode shows a white ring on one side to show negative polarity corresponding to the diagram. Capacitor has a white strip of minus lines showing negative polarity. This is all needed for basic configuration. Now solder them together and watch out for polarities. A PCB is not at all necessary, but if new to the business do with it!

Below are some basic photos of the consumables are given below for easy understanding.

We need to build two rectifiers:
1) 6A4 (6 amp) diode configuration----->for charging the battery.
2)2 amp diode configuration----->relay switching.

Hope it clears the basic setup. But real photos will be added soon.

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timi

Thanks for your valuable feedback.....will post the pics for better understanding.

timi

Ofcourse pavan.....there will be issues on the recommended procedure only if done incorrectly. This mod has the added ability to switch to the default configuration by way of a toggle switch.....so in any such issues nothing goes wrong. The fire you stated has been caused only due to improper wiring method/gauge used. From my experience...do this mod if you have knowledge in Electronics and some basic tinkering....A true DIY thing ,,this is!!!

timi

All things are working perfectly and being in monsoon climate took a little precaution and covered things up. But don't worry everythings cool and running perfectly.

As posted earlier by pavan...the issue happened to him was really disappointing..and the fact that it happened was due to a minor fault in the original mod published elsewhere in XBHP by Rahuldevnath. The ciruit that i have posted is rectified and the heat levels will be very low. Personally checked and have ridden for over a month.

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