ZMA Tappet Setting for Beginners. - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community

ashwinprakas · 10-06-2011, 07:17 PM

Hi guys, I'm a proud owner of a ZMA-R 2011. And as you all know ZMA's are very notorious for their 'Tappet Noise' issues. So here's a DIY guide I made for everyone out there who's facing the above issue. This guide's especially made for starters like me who's not at all familiar with a bike's internals.

Symptoms:

There will be a sewing machine type of noise when you start the bike, which will decrease as the engine gets hotter. Cause when the engines hot, the thingi's expand thus filling the unnecessary space resulting in reduced noise.

Necessities(Before doing the deed.):

1. Pair of Tappet Bolt O'Rings (Rs.12/-).

2. Fevibond Adhesive (Rs.13/-).

3. Hero Honda Special Tappet Tool (Rs.50/-).

4. Modified Feeler Guage (Will get back to the cause of modification later.).

5. Special Retrieval Tool (Made by KB100 & Aneesh@4Ghz).

We had to make this tool cause the

used to hold the blades of the feeler guage got loose and fell into the valve hole. And we went through hell to get it out of there.

Procedure:

MAKE SURE THE BIKE's BEEN IDLE FOR AT LEAST 3Hrs.

1. Remove side panels.

2. Remove tank.

3. Remove fairing & Store in a safe place, since its the most fragile part of our bike.

4. Remove both 'Tapet Cover Bolt's' and use only, I repeat use only a 'Ring Spanner' to do the job. The whole set can be bought for Rs.350/-, the required size for the tapet nut is size 17.

5. Inside you'll see something like this.

Exhaust Valve

Intake Valve

Picture fefore removing L bracket (Courtesy of CRF230).

Note - We've removed the 'L' bracket for easy access.

6. Remove the Sparkplug and then move the bike in final gear till the tapet (set it one at a time, cause they work in a contradicting manner.) goes up completely and comes down, at this point it will be loose.

7. So now the feeler guage comes to play. Insert it below the bottom end of the tapet screw seen below the rocker arm (not the space between the lock nut and the rocker arm.).
Loosen the lock nut with a size 10 O'Ring spanner and then adjust the tapet adjuster/screw with the special tool (The Rs.50/- one.) with respect to the feeler guage, keeping in mind the 0.10mm free play. Dont worry its not a biggie, here's a pic of the thing taken out i.e including the lock nut.

And heres a pic of the rocker arm without the lock nut and the tapet screw.

8. After you’ve set the tappet adjuster screw properly tighten the lock nut with a O’Ring spanner BUT while holding the tappet adjuster screw with the special tool, so that the settings wont go wrong.

9. Now scratch out the old O'Ring and then coat the new O'Ring with a considerable amount of Fevibond and wait till it partially dries to form a rubber coating around it. Then insert it into the tappet cover bolt and put back the both the tappet bolts. And reverse the rest of the steps.

10. Your back in action now, and ready to roll...

RIDE SAFE.

Noor · 10-07-2011, 04:10 PM

DIY Approved

Drifty · 10-07-2011, 07:10 PM

Nice D.I.Y but it must be remembered that the
1)engine must be left idle for atleast 3hrs before setting the valve clearance.
2)tappets should be set only at compression TDC or the setting will get messed up!
BTW Ashwin,from where you got that tappet adjusting tool?

acs1207 · 10-07-2011, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Hi guys, I'm a proud owner of a ZMA-R 2011. And as you all know ZMA's are very notorious for their 'Tappet Noise' issues. So here's a DIY guide I made for everyone out there who's facing the above issue. This guide's especially made for starters like me who's not at all familiar with a bike's internals.

Symptoms:

There will be a sewing machine type of noise when you start the bike, which will decrease as the engine gets hotter. Cause when the engines hot, the thingi's expand thus filling the unnecessary space resulting in reduced noise.

Necessities(Before doing the deed.):

1. Pair of Tappet Bolt O'Rings (Rs.12/-).

2. Fevibond Adhesive (Rs.13/-).

3. Hero Honda Special Tappet Tool (Rs.50/-).

4. Modified Feeler Guage (Will get back to the cause of modification later.).

5. Special Retrieval Tool (Made by KB100 & Aneesh@4Ghz).

We had to make this tool cause the

used to hold the blades of the feeler guage got loose and fell into the valve hole. And we went through hell to get it out of there.

Procedure:

1. Remove side panels.
2. Remove tank.
3. Remove fairing & Store in a safe place, since its the most fragile part of our bike.
4. Remove both 'Tappet Cover Bolt's' and use only, I repeat use only a 'Ring Spanner' to do the job. The whole set can be bought for Rs.350/-, the required size for the tapet nut is size 17.
5. Inside you'll see something like this.
Exhaust Valve
Intake Valve
Note - We've removed the 'L' bracket for easy access.
6. Remove the Sparkplug and then move the bike in final gear till the tapet (set it one at a time, cause they work in a contradicting manner.) goes up completely and comes down, at this point it will be loose.
7. So now the feeler guage comes to play. Insert it below the bottom end of the tapet screw seen below the rocker arm (not the space between the lock nut and the rocker arm.).
Loosen the lock nut with a size 10 O'Ring spanner and then adjust the tapet adjuster/screw with the special tool (The Rs.50/- one.) with respect to the feeler guage, keeping in mind the 0.10mm free play. Dont worry its not a biggie, here's a pic of the thing taken out i.e including the lock nut.

And heres a pic of the rocker arm without the lock nut and the tapet screw.

8. After you’ve set the tappet adjuster screw properly tighten the lock nut with a O’Ring spanner BUT while holding the tappet adjuster screw with the special tool, so that the settings wont go wrong.

9. Now scratch out the old O'Ring and then coat the new O'Ring with a considerable amount of Fevibond and wait till it partially dries to form a rubber coating around it. Then insert it into the tappet cover bolt and put back the both the tappet bolts. And reverse the rest of the steps.

10. Your back in action now, and ready to roll...

RIDE SAFE.

Good DIY guide

, but I think a few more snaps would've made it better - I've underlined a couple where it would've helped the starters ..

SriramEfunds · 10-07-2011, 07:29 PM

Splendid Ashwin, I was about ask you to open a thread and you just beat me!I believe whole lot of ZMA owners would benefit including myself. I should admit that you have done a brave DIY on a new bike. Out of this, hope your problem is resolved and enjoying every moment.

ashwinprakas · 10-08-2011, 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drifty

Nice D.I.Y but it must be remembered that the
1)engine must be left idle for atleast 3hrs before setting the valve clearance.
2)tappets should be set only at compression TDC or the setting will get messed up!
BTW Ashwin,from where you got that tappet adjusting tool?

1) OOPS, sorry. Error rectified.
2) Setting the bike at TDC in ZMA's not an accurate methode. i.e by monitoring the 'T' mark through the inspection window. Cause when we set like that there'll be excess play and the bike'll start sounding like a sewing machine.

The tool's easily available at any well known hardware store. Just ask for "Hero Honda Special Tool". For guys staying in Kollam,Kerala its better you go to 'Muthodam' near 'Expo'.

Quote:

Originally Posted by acs1207

Good DIY guide

, but I think a few more snaps would've made it better - I've underlined a couple where it would've helped the starters ..

'Tappet Cover Bolt's' - Looks like the oil drain bolt. There are only 2 on top of the head portion, so its hard to miss.

'L' bracket - We were'nt actually planning on removing it, but when trying to open the inlet valve cover bolt it got in the way.
So guys, when trying to open the inlet valve cover bolt if anything the shape of an L Bracket with 3 long bolts holding it, gets in the way, then go ahead and remove it.

below the bottom end of the tapet screw seen below the rocker arm - Even Drifty bro's tried to take a perfect pic of the above, but its impossible and even hard to understand when written verbally (even through phone, guess PSR Sir's got a hell lot of patience, cause he explained the above to me over and over again.

). So to overcome that problem I've removed the taped adjuster nut completely and taken a pic of it, So newbies like myself wont be confused.

tapet adjuster/screw - Multiple pic's of it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SriramEfunds

Splendid Ashwin, I was about ask you to open a thread and you just beat me!I believe whole lot of ZMA owners would benefit including myself. I should admit that you have done a brave DIY on a new bike. Out of this, hope your problem is resolved and enjoying every moment.

Credits goes to PSR,KB100 & Aneesh@4Ghz. Cause without them nothing would've happened. And the problems resolved 100%.

Aneesh@4GHz · 10-08-2011, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SriramEfunds

Splendid Ashwin, I was about ask you to open a thread and you just beat me!I believe whole lot of ZMA owners would benefit including myself. I should admit that you have done a brave DIY on a new bike. Out of this, hope your problem is resolved and enjoying every moment.

Yes,now the bike is completely fine and he is enjoying every bit of it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drifty

Nice D.I.Y but it must be remembered that the
1)engine must be left idle for atleast 3hrs before setting the valve clearance.

Is it? I read some where that engine must be completely cold for valve setting!

Quote:

2)tappets should be set only at compression TDC or the setting will get messed up!

We tried it at TDC,but the result was failure,so ignored TDC and adjusted it,and it worked fine and still running strong.

Quote:

BTW Ashwin,from where you got that tappet adjusting tool?

We got it from a hardware store in our city,Costed 50rs ,especially for HH Bikes.

santoosh · 10-08-2011, 01:41 PM

failed to understand why it doesnt work with setting at TDC.

Not right..

And whats spl with the zma? Same with all my bikes.
Santa

ashwinprakas · 10-09-2011, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by santoosh

failed to understand why it doesnt work with setting at TDC.

Not right..

And whats spl with the zma? Same with all my bikes.
Santa

Give it a try for yourself and you'll get it.
BTW the methode we used to put the bike at TDC was by opening up the inspection nut near the gear lever and moving the bike in final gear till we spotted the 'T' mark.

10-06-2011, 07:17 PM	#1 (permalink)
ashwinprakas Born Polite, But Arrogant by Nature. ;-) Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Kollam Posts: 1,438	ZMA Tappet Setting for Beginners. Hi guys, I'm a proud owner of a ZMA-R 2011. And as you all know ZMA's are very notorious for their 'Tappet Noise' issues. So here's a DIY guide I made for everyone out there who's facing the above issue. This guide's especially made for starters like me who's not at all familiar with a bike's internals. Symptoms: There will be a sewing machine type of noise when you start the bike, which will decrease as the engine gets hotter. Cause when the engines hot, the thingi's expand thus filling the unnecessary space resulting in reduced noise. Necessities(Before doing the deed.): 1. Pair of Tappet Bolt O'Rings (Rs.12/-). 2. Fevibond Adhesive (Rs.13/-). 3. Hero Honda Special Tappet Tool (Rs.50/-). 4. Modified Feeler Guage (Will get back to the cause of modification later.). 5. Special Retrieval Tool (Made by KB100 & Aneesh@4Ghz). We had to make this tool cause the used to hold the blades of the feeler guage got loose and fell into the valve hole. And we went through hell to get it out of there. Procedure: MAKE SURE THE BIKE's BEEN IDLE FOR AT LEAST 3Hrs. 1. Remove side panels. 2. Remove tank. 3. Remove fairing & Store in a safe place, since its the most fragile part of our bike. 4. Remove both 'Tapet Cover Bolt's' and use only, I repeat use only a 'Ring Spanner' to do the job. The whole set can be bought for Rs.350/-, the required size for the tapet nut is size 17. 5. Inside you'll see something like this. Exhaust Valve Intake Valve Picture fefore removing L bracket (Courtesy of CRF230). Note - We've removed the 'L' bracket for easy access. 6. Remove the Sparkplug and then move the bike in final gear till the tapet (set it one at a time, cause they work in a contradicting manner.) goes up completely and comes down, at this point it will be loose. 7. So now the feeler guage comes to play. Insert it below the bottom end of the tapet screw seen below the rocker arm (not the space between the lock nut and the rocker arm.). Loosen the lock nut with a size 10 O'Ring spanner and then adjust the tapet adjuster/screw with the special tool (The Rs.50/- one.) with respect to the feeler guage, keeping in mind the 0.10mm free play. Dont worry its not a biggie, here's a pic of the thing taken out i.e including the lock nut. And heres a pic of the rocker arm without the lock nut and the tapet screw. 8. After you’ve set the tappet adjuster screw properly tighten the lock nut with a O’Ring spanner BUT while holding the tappet adjuster screw with the special tool, so that the settings wont go wrong. 9. Now scratch out the old O'Ring and then coat the new O'Ring with a considerable amount of Fevibond and wait till it partially dries to form a rubber coating around it. Then insert it into the tappet cover bolt and put back the both the tappet bolts. And reverse the rest of the steps. 10. Your back in action now, and ready to roll... RIDE SAFE. __________________ “Once the throttle is cracked on, it is rolled on evenly, smoothly, and constantly throughout the remainder of the turn.” Last edited by ashwinprakas; 12-17-2011 at 06:18 AM.

10-07-2011, 04:10 PM	#2 (permalink)
Noor Administrator Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Mumbai, Maharashtra, India. Posts: 2,336	DIY Approved __________________ Happiness is finding you have another Gear left.... Join xBhp On

10-07-2011, 07:10 PM	#3 (permalink)
Drifty An Xbhpian Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Mumbai,Dombivli Posts: 696	Nice D.I.Y but it must be remembered that the 1)engine must be left idle for atleast 3hrs before setting the valve clearance. 2)tappets should be set only at compression TDC or the setting will get messed up! BTW Ashwin,from where you got that tappet adjusting tool? __________________ D.I.Y-Valve clearance setting RTR180 D.I.Y-RTR180 brake fluid replacing/brake bleeding D.I.Y-RTR180 brake pad replacing/cleaning Exploded view of Mikuni BS-29 carb A motorcycle functions entirely in accordance with the laws of reason, and a study of the art of motorcycle maintenance is really a miniature study of the art of rationality itself.

10-07-2011, 07:29 PM	#5 (permalink)
SriramEfunds Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Heart of Chennai Posts: 2,415	Splendid Ashwin, I was about ask you to open a thread and you just beat me!I believe whole lot of ZMA owners would benefit including myself. I should admit that you have done a brave DIY on a new bike. Out of this, hope your problem is resolved and enjoying every moment. __________________ 'Get your motor runnin, head out on the highway' ZMA-R 2011 \| RX 135 1998 \| RX100 1993 \| Unicorn 2005 - 2011 SOL Helmet Review October 2011 Ooty Ride \| March 2011 - Munnar Tri-state Meet \| October 2010 - Point Calimere \| August 2010 - Horsley Hills \| June 2010 - Yercaud - Tri-State Meet

10-08-2011, 01:41 PM	#8 (permalink)
santoosh toure- r15 Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Bangalore Posts: 1,002	failed to understand why it doesnt work with setting at TDC. Not right.. And whats spl with the zma? Same with all my bikes. Santa __________________ 00 Kinetic Style 04 Pulsar 180 V1 06 Hyosung Comet GT 250 07 HH ZMA-R 08 Yamaha YZF-R15 10 Suzuki Access 12 Hyosung GT-650

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