pavanchirmade

I have seen people install dual horns and louder horns especially for the highways and normal ones for the city..

I had noticed one such ZMA. That guy had installed a switch to switch between the loud/ normal horns. And for the loud horns, there was a RELAY/CUTOUT installed.
When I asked him why was the relay installed, he said, "Relay honese horn Battery kam khaata hai"..I was like


1.The horn will anyways be drawing current from the battery. So how will it "kam khaao" the battery???


2.Also, when we say that the pulsar UG3 headlight is AC, does that mean there is a rectifier which runs the headlight by taking current from the alternator coil or is the bulb fed directly from the alternator?

I know alternator output is AC and if a rectifier is installed between the headlight and the alternator, the headlight will be running DC.


3.Will it be ok if instead of running the headlight from the alternator i run it from battery directly??
Is a relay necessary if the headlight is run from the battery directly?

4.What is the difference between the RELAY and the CUTOUT??

Aryan

Query Approved.

__________________
...in search of that perfect world - My Travel Blog :)

rahuldevnath

If at all a relay is put, the horn will only eat the battery when the relay is switched on! But the only reason when a relay is required is when a Horn or light consumes so much power that a normal switch is not possible. Like in HID.


No in UG3 the headlight runs off coil, with a regulator, not with a rectifier.

Putting the rectifier run the headlight on DC, but not from the battery.

Yes, you may put the headlight on Battery, and No a relay is not required generally. But yes in specially in UG3 a switch or a relay is required .

Refer to : Converted my Pulsar 150 Classic to ALL DC

__________________

pavanchirmade

I may sound n00b but does the same bulb run on AC as well as DC??

Also about the horn and relay thing, are you saying that the current horn switch cannot withstand the more current drawn by the horn and will be damaged right?

So when we install a relay, we use the switch just to activate the relay armature right? The relay then supplies current to the horn. Did I get this right??

So the claim that battery consumption reduces due to installation of a relay is false right??

rahuldevnath

Yes, the same bulb will run on AC as well as DC. If the bulb is on Battery, the same bulb will be flicker free! Constant Illumination!

As far as I know, there' are no Horns which will require a relay, at least I cannot understand why one should need the relay any way!

Yes, exactly!

Yes, it's false, in fact in theory there would be added minuscule load of the relay!!

Now, either the guy you met wasn't using a relay, or it was something else!

__________________

hell_glider

when i run on DC, it means that the bulb will not flicker / change intensity depending on the rpms, correct ??

does it mean that when a 35w normal bulb is running on DC (whether direct from the battery or from the rectifier) it will be providing steady light that does not flicker with the rpms ??

so whats the difference in setup and consequences between a headlight that runs on DC direct from a battery and a headlight that runs on DC through a rectifier ?

sorry if the questions are very elementary, but I am not well versed in electrical fundas like these. would highly appreciate some education

thanks and regards
hell_glider

rahuldevnath

Well DC lighting is actually a misleading term, or at least does not explain everything.

Actually it doesn't matter whether the bike is on AC or DC, what matters is that it runs off the battery. In fact if you want you can put a inverter after the battery making it AC and still you headlight will be constant.

So, Basically for constant illumination you need to put the electrical of your bike on Battery not just DC.

But the issue here is that bikes which have AC have two current sources from the coil, one for charging the battery and the other for headlight and other electrical.

If we decide to convert our bikes to DC (battery), what is needed is that the two sources from the coil have to be combined to charge the battery alone, and then you draw the power from the battery.

Two get an idea, think you have 2 taps, one which fills a bucket and the other is for shower. Now the shower tap does not have constant water supply and you are irritated, so simply put all the taps to fill the bucket and connect the shower to the bucket, and voila you will have constant water in the shower. Sorry for the interprtation, if it sounded stupid!!

__________________

Samyaza

Wonderful! Thats the first time im getting what you guys do. It gives a pretty good basic idea. If its not too much trouble then it would be great if someone could explain a generic circuit with diagrams. What and where the coil is, what all the things in the circuit do like capacitor, heat sink, etc.

rahuldevnath

Hm.. I would recommend checking out this thread first Converted my Pulsar 150 Classic to ALL DC

About your other queries.

Coil is in left side of your engine, just next to gear shifter. But for converting it to DC, no need of checking out the coil, but bike's wiring knowledge is required.

Capcaitor - Capacitor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Diode - Diode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Heatsink - Heat sink - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

And the basic diagram

__________________

abhijeet080808

Why don't you look here - Unicorn converted to DC Headlight. Help to increase battery charging rate. and here - Converted my Pulsar 150 Classic to ALL DC

__________________
Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!