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Conversation Between ARNandal and Raneet
Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 10
  1. ARNandal
    04-25-2011 11:30 PM
    ARNandal
    Oopz mod already done, dont have a camera, check pavanchirmade's post he has shared it here in some thread.. dont rember which 1..
  2. Raneet
    04-25-2011 05:55 PM
    Raneet
    nice. take some snaps during the procedure.
  3. ARNandal
    04-25-2011 03:25 PM
    ARNandal
    No dude just started...
    jus switched to p220f camshaft.. good throttle response.... bike is more relaxed now and can feel the crispness just above mid range..
  4. Raneet
    04-25-2011 01:39 PM
    Raneet
    hey did your upgrade complete successfully?
  5. ARNandal
    03-15-2011 03:57 PM
    ARNandal
    Thank you so much...
    i will update you...
  6. Raneet
    03-15-2011 02:50 PM
    Raneet
    and once you're done with your bike engine upgrade, please give me details about it like what all things you had to install and all. A friend of mine has a pulsar 180, 3.5years old, i once suggested him to go for the 220 clutch plates and housing, but that time he was too scared and quite made fun of my idea. if you succeed, definitely let me know.

    Best wishes.
  7. Raneet
    03-15-2011 02:49 PM
    Raneet
    keep your bike within 4k rpm on the tacho until the 1st 500kms, then 5k rpm for the next 500 and then 8k rpm until the next 500kms. after that rip the way you want.

    use only the below mentioned engine oils:

    Minerals: Motul 3000 4t (for the 1st 5000kms)
    Semi-Synthetic: Motul 5100 (for the next 5000kms)
    Full-Synthetic: Motul 300V (if you don't wanna switch to full synthetic, no problem, but if you wanna switch, then don't unless you've scored atleast 10000kms with the new engine)

    many of my friends use castrol activ 4t xtra but i would suggest you not to. castrol is not well suited for a dtsi engine.

    another most important thing, never go downwards in the engine oil hierarchy i've mentioned. If you start using semi-synthetic, never go down to minerals ever, similarly if you're using full-synthetic, never go down to semi-synthetic or minerals, no matter whoever says what. engine life gets hampered massively.
  8. Raneet
    03-15-2011 12:11 PM
    Raneet
    but however, if you can manage the entire clutch assembly, then i would say go for that as 220 has a different clutch setup altogether. No idea about the cost that can be involve. Right now i'm online via phone, so next time i log in from pc., i'l post you some more information on this project of yours.
  9. Raneet
    03-15-2011 11:44 AM
    Raneet
    well, i believe the clutch pressure plates and the clutch housing will do. 220 clutch plates cost around 2.5k. Since yours is a experimental basis, do get hold of adequate views from experts both online and offline. Also take reference from the expert performance modification centers in your city. Another addition you'll have to do to your expenses is your chain sprocket set. Get a 220 chain sprocket set as i assume your 180 is ug3 version and for a 200 overbore, you need stronger chain sprockets for upto the mark performance.
  10. ARNandal
    03-15-2011 08:30 AM
    ARNandal
    hi!
    i heard frm experts that p220 block piston wont go with my 180 coz of itz stroke length, it will need more replacements and those cost wouldnt match the performance...
    how much does the p220 entire clutch assembly cost or is it that i only need to go for the clutch n pressure plates?

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