basumataryraj

@Raj:
Rewinding cost depends on the person who is doing it, but 200gms of AWG copper wire generally costs upwards of 230 bucks in my city.
Piaggio Ape RR costs Rs.1100 only.
I used the stock AWG 21 gauge wire.........very thin and low resistance wire, nearly 175 feet of it to rewind all 12 poles.
I did the works on stock coil but kept a new one in handy if the mods did not take properly for precaution,I still have that for any future use of mine.
Yes, I had the pic of the 12 pole stator assay and it is there on the Ownership thread posted.
Photo posted on the ownership thread had both versions of GS stator assay,
The ones posted by Vishnukmd was of the 2009 batch.
The one posted by me is of the 2010 batch.

You may have other questions too.........please let me know.

Now whats left is refining it.
So that u can use the bike as it was without DC ........every switch working with ease.

3.Former AC phase relay: The head light and pilot lamps assay used the AC phase connection from your stator assay, with the stock rectifier gone and change in connections the AC phase is now inactive,what you have to do is to reroute the erstwhile AC phase through your ignition key wire which will lead it to your battery.Otherwise your headset would drain battery and can be turned on even when your bike would be without ignition and key.......now that would be awkward aint it ???

So this are the basic things on what needs to be done........if you have any questions please clarify, then if you want to know more ask me.

2.RR-Regulator Rectifier: Piaggio Ape RR is the most sophisticated RR unit in the electronics market,if unavailable you can use the Bajaj GC1000 auto RR or the TVS King RR,if still not found ,use Pulsar220RR........but you know complications increase and quality decrease as you move down the alternatives of ApeRR.
Now,the two wires from ur stator assay would go and connect to two gray wires of the ApeRR unit.The other two wires of the RR unit, vis, yellow and black would move to the +ve and -ve terminals of the battery.

Now that completes your DCfying the bike.

@Raj: I had done the Full DC mod with the wet work being done by an experienced motor electrician in my neighborhood.The concept was mine and he just completed the job with sophistication.

Drvmtm is my close friend and I kept a tab on how he did things and got an insight at his house after a lunch on a certain day, so I adopted a similar approach with his suggestion and converted my bike to Full DC.

There are three things that makes up the basic of this:
1.Coil rewinding 2.Selecting the correct RR 3.relaying the former AC phase through ignition switch to the battery.

1.Coil rewinding: The stock stator assay provides one black wire out of the coil which goes to the stock rectifier.Leave alone the stator sensor which is an aluminium unit attached with the coil,it is not our concern.Now, you have to rewind that coil and have to give rise to two wires instead of one black wire.

Hi raj, I absolutely love the HID's. To be frank with you, I've stopped taking the bike to office mainly because the parking lot sucks! But other than that I've done 3-4 Hrs riding with HID's for many times. I was Initally facing draining issues but once i removed Number plate lamp ALl problems have stopped. The wiring has been modified substantially. The custom rectifier should be available at any motorcycle market. Just ask around. if not let me know. It costs 200 RUpees here. I can send it via courier, but its better if you get it there as if there are any immidiate issues u can get it changed right there.

Hi, sending a coil to someone to get it rewinded is something I am thinking of. I have already connected the pilots to battery. Now using a spare bulb (55/60 watts) from i10. The light has marginally improved but there is still more room for improvement. Raj

Hi raj, Thanks for the info. I might start work on it next week. I have a suggestion for u mate. If you can buy a replacement Dyno coil and send it over to someone in the metro you can overcome a major problem mate. Otherwise one suggestion is to remove the 2 pilots (5 w each x2 = 10w) and the parking lamps 5 w, saving a total of 15 watts for night driving. Plonk a 55/60 for the moment mate. 10 w max wont make a diff when u are revving hard

hi! I oww\na GS150R as well and am planning for HID's. Saw you posts on ABhijeet's wall. Any inputs boss?

if the charging is like 4.5 amps or like,you dont need to do anything.your bike is having ac/dc electricals just like older gen pu;sars,if the charging of the dc part is 4.5 amps or like u can just plonk a hid without any mod as the battery circit is dc.its actually the case in so many bikes like unicorn as its also a ac/dc bike but the charging is good and if u just change the tail lamp to led then u can use hid without a prob.as far as ur bike goes its already tail light is having leds so chances are very good that u can plonk a hid ,just check the amp rating at 3 k rpm and let me know.

can you please check the charging amp through the battery with the help of a multi meter(digital).if its more then 4.5 amps or so on ,go ahed and plonk a bixenon hid.let me know. also where do u live?