Rahulbarik

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HAD YOU BEEN IN CHENNAI I WOULD HAVE LET YOU FEEL THE RIDE.
IF you think you have more money then then you can buy a used CBR250 to enjoy the torque in current stock set up and wait for joel to complete his work in CBR. Then you can decide on taking the MOD.
The reason I suggest procuring 2nd hand ride is because its would make better sense if you are going for a mod job, else you can enjoy stock for at least 2yrs time.

End of the day everything depends on how much you can spend. Last but not least, we cannot ignore the torque monsters of India, 'RE'
Take care of your moms health

If you like a torque monster, I feel that you should probably go for used P220 and get it joel'd as you don't have ride now. It might work out cheaper than R15s. For My Ride I use Motul 300V 15w50 double ester which was advised by Abimanyu. It costs from 800 -950. Once I was able to get it for 800/-, now its 950/- I suppose. Joel recommends oil and Oil filter change in every 2-2.5K kms. I donot know the exact price of the oil filter. As far as joel'd ride is concerned u can very well use stock parts and get it serviced in SVC just like ur stock. So no problem with maintenance.

You can also get 2nd hand R15v1 and get it RC tuned. THse have gud torque figures. you can get the max possible block size from joel for gud torque

Stock ECU is tuned for 150cc only I suppose. I got 60kmpl ~4k rpm which will be impractical for daily use. With stock ECU your 165cc setup will run lean so you will get good mileage boost. I suggest go for RR ECU at least in the later stage if you can afford. Its worth It and it makes a world of difference.

The RR ECU can be tuned as you require so it can be also tuned for very good mileage if that's what you want. If ridden sanely the RR ECU itself is capable of giving great mileage, but you wont ride sanely

Dear Rahul,

Thanks for friend request. I did little over 4k kms in R16. When I run it with Stock ECU(during run in around 4k rpm) I was getting in 60s. The ride from bangalore to chennai was very inexpensive. When I change the ECU and ferquent ripping I get around 38 and definitely above 35 for sure. This is little more than my old stock thats all. I ride hard( mostly above 7 k) if ridden sanely we can get amazing KMPL I suppose. I weigh 86kg now and I was able to do 142kmph as top speed more than once. I suppose I am able to do 0-100 in around 9sec with db killer. If you have time do check V1 ownership thread page 1822 which has a few crude mobile phone videos.

So far I dont have any problems and I have plans to do further Mods

Never really calculated. I believe in preventive maintenance rather then break down maintenance. Lets take the example of my tyres. My tyres till date original, they had run for 17,000 kms, and by the sight of it were good for at least another 3,000 to 4,000 kms. However, I have changed both the tyres couple of days back. While both the tyres had enough rubber on them to last me another 6 to 7 months, I have changed them as both tyres had started to loose their profile and the rubber was becoming hard due to constant exposure to the elements. Personally, handling and grip take precedence over how long a tyre will last. You need to understand that the cost of owning a R15 will definitely be far higher than a CBZ or a Pulsar 150.

I really don't know what to say. Personally, mileage is secondary consideration for me, so when the bike gives me 5 kms less for a tankful, I don't really give it too much thought. Guess it comes from living with 2 strokes all my life. I think the best person to guide you in this matter would be Joel. Though, one thing that I would like to note is that instead of mileage you need to look at total cost of ownership per kilometer.

Till date I have done about 8,000 kms. I am very happy with the performance. You need to understand these sort of projects are always going to the work in progress for the entire life of bike. I will be tweaking or changing things on it for a long time to come. With a stock ECU, 165 CC, FFE, cam and air filter combination the fuel efficiency is about 45 km/l. Right now I am running a RD ECU which is running rich in the low rpms and hence I am getting a fuel efficiency of around 30 km/l. The good thing about RD ECU is that the fueling can be changed and optimized. Joel will be shortly sending me a new fuel map to adjust the richness in the low rpm range. I expect the fuel efficiency to go up to 40 km/l after that.

see for me ....tubeless is a risky option coz if its out of order i wont find shops to fix it..shall i go for Zapper Vyde 120/80/17 with tube??

OR else go for Simple zapper c or Ceat vertigo..??

thnx 4 d reply....wel was waiting 4 ur reply 4 a few days...nywyz thnx sir...wil go for MRF else Ceat...i contacted michelin area representative n he said..if i cud wait for 2-3 months then michelin will be launchin new series of tyres in India....

nywyz wil go for MRF or ceat....!!