in bumper to bumper traffic only the front brakes are used.in easy traffic,front and rear can be used but rear being only to decelerate your bike and front to stop it completely.on highways use rear brakes to negotiate curves and turns.but if you see an obstacle in fron of you at high speeds then use the rear as well as front slowly thereby gradually stopping the bike...i hope you understood

1)check your forks are proper or not...
2)leave your hands from the handlbar and check if the bike is going in a straight line and not moving to left or right
3)check for correct airpressures (front 30,rear 32)
4)check for handle bar straightness

while braking,the rear is not as effective as the front ones.its common in all pulsars.keep in mind that you cant give the same force or pressure to your rear brake as you give to your front brake,if you do then the rear wheel will get locked and hence the bike will skid.the rear brake should be used to control the rear portion of the bike while you are executing a curve.also when stopping suddenly use the front brake 80% and the rear 20%.while stopping progressively,use the rear brakes.dont just slam the rear brakes..use the "press and leave" method.thereby your bike's acceleration will decrease and when you come to a point on the road where bike needs to be stopped,use the front brakes too...

Hi,

I own a P220 since 1.5 years. I need an advice on the braking of the bike. I have noticed that if I am driving at around 70-75 and need to brake to stop within few meters then I need to apply both the brakes which leads to my bike skidding and losing control. I have fallen once due to this. My rear brake is weak but the probiking showroom guys say it should be like that otherwise both the wheels will get locked. However, I feel there is some problem in the brakes or wheel alignment or my style of driving & braking.

Hence, I need help to know how you deal with this problem? Is there any pattern or method you follow while braking by which you can control the bike?

theres no need actually...buy the pluggin it in one....a nail in the tyre can be driven for a 50kms i think...u will find a bunk or highway air unit anyways

hi...things to take on trip:
1)puncture kit
2)tools of 220 are useless...nothing to do about it(take extra cash in case to tow the bike or to place it on a lorry)
3)recharge ur fone
4)take a small knife(seriously)
5)see if horns and pass lights are working
6)knee elbow guard a must and also gloves...no compromise...buy them and then go
7)front 30 rear 35 air pressure..
8)all original papers with one xerox of each
9)if possible take a litre of petrol wid u in bottle
10)medicines
11)have a light dinner day before u start...eat light breakfast and lunch

happy journey

hmm...i am sorry but i have no idea bout finance and stuff...lolz ...hope everything goes well...

hi..once again congo for the bike...however if you want mileage then tune your bike for mileage before the delivery....otherwise just wait till 10000kms to tune your carb...while taking delivery just check all the electricals and rear brake master cylinder....check the rear mudguard alignment ...cracks on light dome...also check if ur cdi is changed and fill up tyre pressure there at the pbk only.....as usual the scratches,and the lcd meter

hi...congo on your new bike dude..

before taking delivery of the bike please let a professional pbk mechanic tune your bike for mileage....you might not feel the initial pick up same as that of the tuned one but lite yaar,if you want something you loose something.however though my bike is mileage tuned,my top end is 140kmph though i weigh 95kgs...and the torque provided is far enuf for me to escape the traffic...after tuning the carb for mileage please dont touch the carb for next 10000kms...its like doing an operation on a baby....after 10000kms wotever you do to the carb the bike can take it

so i would suggest you to go for 220...coz of power,looks,lights,stability..its an overall package.if u want mileage then tune ur bike to mileage b4 delivery...even then you can feel the power of the bike...or u can wait for zmr but it doesnt have top end..its only 126kmph...but since its zma successor,i guess it will be reliable

220 dtsi:

this is my 1st bajaj bike...coming from zma,shine,fz...this is my 4th.i have my doubts regarding the engine coz of many guys saying that reliability is an issue.but i went ahead...since mine is the 1st bike in AP,mine was mileage setted.am getting 52kmpl under sane riding conditions...if ripped to 130 i get 35 to 40 which is expected from a 220.the lights are just out of this world.awesome for night tours.the initial torque is good and hence provides good pick up in city traffic...also the soft compound tyres is a great boon to this bike from fi...the only prob i have till now after 5000kms is that my air filter sensor is kaput and am waiting for the stock which is not a big issue.but am spending less time visiting bajaj pbk than yamaha service centre