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View Poll Results: For Duke owners- How will you describe your bikes as?

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  • Immaculate piece of fluidity

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  • Biking epilogue

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Thread: KTM 200 Duke

  1. #3521
    Rusted Rahulbarik's Avatar
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    Found this document in motoroids.com. Is it really coming?
    Attached Images Attached Images   

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doga View Post
    PS :Any suggestions on how to reach the claimed top speed of 138? I have only gone till 130 and that too only once. The bike feels a bit out of breath after 115-120. Yesterday when riding solo I realised I could not twist the throttle more at 120. But yeah that was a slight incline.
    Recommended rpms for initial gear shifts so as to reach the top speed? I normally shift all the gears near the redline when I am in mood to reach 125+.
    Anyone?
    I weigh 85+ and have reached a speed of 138kmph on my duke. The only suggestion I can give is to find a longer open & straight stretch. Because after about 120kmph the bike did take a while to touch the 135+ mark which I have done quite a few times.

  3. #3523
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    Hey guys.. I've got some niggling issues with my Duke now, just a few days after the first service . The exhaust note is now very subdued, not as loud and rorty as usual, there is a rough and loud whirring noise from the engine that increases with the revs (wasn't there before), and the rear brake isn't biting properly.. The bike seemed to feel and sound better before the service. Will be going to the service centre tomorrow to get it checked...

  4. #3524
    Rusted hunkofgals's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboJC View Post
    Hey guys.. I've got some niggling issues with my Duke now, just a few days after the first service . The exhaust note is now very subdued, not as loud and rorty as usual, there is a rough and loud whirring noise from the engine that increases with the revs (wasn't there before), and the rear brake isn't biting properly.. The bike seemed to feel and sound better before the service. Will be going to the service centre tomorrow to get it checked...


    after the service the exhaust note subsides and within few kms it comes back to normal and the more miles the better and louder will be the sound
    .
    whirring noise from the engine head ?
    .
    the rear brake action play isnt that good , u need to get it adjusted in the SVC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rahulbarik View Post
    Found this document in motoroids.com. Is it really coming?

    It might be, I really like the zero emission off road bike part and the X-Bow thing.

    Here are links to the images you uploaded as those are hard to read:

    http://motoroids.com/assets/Uploads/...jaj-Report.jpg
    http://motoroids.com/assets/Uploads/...aj-Report2.jpg

  6. #3526
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunkofgals View Post
    after the service the exhaust note subsides and within few kms it comes back to normal and the more miles the better and louder will be the sound
    .
    whirring noise from the engine head ?
    .
    the rear brake action play isnt that good , u need to get it adjusted in the SVC
    I was told by the svc that both front and rear brake play can't be changed at all at the svc. It comes pre calibrated from the factory. Now if they can't do or they have been instructed not to do it(probably because if an overenthusiastic guy gets his play on the front lever almost zero, he might end up with a wheel lock and crash), is something I am not sure about

  7. #3527
    Drifting The Mountain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doga View Post
    I was told by the svc that both front and rear brake play can't be changed at all at the svc. It comes pre calibrated from the factory. Now if they can't do or they have been instructed not to do it(probably because if an overenthusiastic guy gets his play on the front lever almost zero, he might end up with a wheel lock and crash), is something I am not sure about
    "Play" can't be adjusted in a hydraulic disk brake system. All that you can change is the position of the lever. The only corrective measures possible in the braking system itself are replacing the pads and bleeding any air from the system. If the action of the rear brake is spongy or weak, you might have it bled to make sure there is no air.

    Hydraulic brakes work differently from cable-operated drum brakes. With a hydraulic system, whatever force you input at the lever is transmitted exactly to the pads, because fluids cannot compress. If you're constantly locking your brakes, you need to readjust yourself, not the bike. This is why experienced riders, even on extremely powerful bikes like the Hayabusa, often use only one or two fingers on the front brake; it is easier to modulate the pressure you are applying, and you are less likely to grab the lever with your full hand in an emergency.

    In this case, with a rear brake that does not do much, there are a few things to consider: First, the rear is only capable of providing a maximum of 30% of total braking. This is due to the weight transfer the bike undergoes under braking. The rear master cylinder may be designed not to transmit much. Also, since the rear is foot-operated, it may be designed to be a bit less sensitive simply because your feet aren't as precise as your hands. Second, if the pads aren't properly bedded, they may not be doing their job properly. They could either be glazed, or not fully worn-in. Lastly, it may be possible that the lever is not properly adjusted. If the rear pedal is set too low, you may have to reach too far to get to the "meat" of the brake's effectiveness. Check the position, and adjust so the pedal is just under your toe, or just next to it, so you don't have to lift your foot too far to get on top of it, or don't have to drop too much to find it.
    ATGATT: All The Gear, All The Time!

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    Question time: is it same on your duke?

    1.All the indicators on the handle bar are back-lit ? In mine pass switch indicator (near Low -> high Tactile switch) is not back-lit ,

    2.Petrol tank-cap after locking it (after that click sound) ,I can push it little more .it still got some room inside around 30mm and bounces back .

    I cant find another duke near-by ,so cant check them personnelly ..

  9. #3529
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    Quote Originally Posted by vidy View Post
    Question time: is it same on your duke?

    1.All the indicators on the handle bar are back-lit ? In mine pass switch indicator (near Low -> high Tactile switch) is not back-lit ,

    2.Petrol tank-cap after locking it (after that click sound) ,I can push it little more .it still got some room inside around 30mm and bounces back .

    I cant find another duke near-by ,so cant check them personnelly ..
    Don't worry. Same in my bike too. BUt 30mm?? more like 3 mm or something. You have to be forceful with the fuel lock. Doesn't give a positive feel after locking.The cap comes up and settles a bit above after locking.

    Quote Originally Posted by The Mountain View Post
    "Play" can't be adjusted in a hydraulic disk brake system. All that you can change is the position of the lever. The only corrective measures possible in the braking system itself are replacing the pads and bleeding any air from the system. If the action of the rear brake is spongy or weak, you might have it bled to make sure there is no air.

    Hydraulic brakes work differently from cable-operated drum brakes. With a hydraulic system, whatever force you input at the lever is transmitted exactly to the pads, because fluids cannot compress. If you're constantly locking your brakes, you need to readjust yourself, not the bike. This is why experienced riders, even on extremely powerful bikes like the Hayabusa, often use only one or two fingers on the front brake; it is easier to modulate the pressure you are applying, and you are less likely to grab the lever with your full hand in an emergency.

    .
    Yeah I have read about the bernoulli's principle back in school. That is fine. But there is a free play in both the brakes. ONly thing that it cannot be adjusted. I can't really figure out why? Or may be I need to understand what exactly will increasing or decreasing free play on the brakes change in the brake system.

    PS : I have been observing for the past 3-4 days that the bike doesn't pull positively in 4th gear when I upshift from 3. That positive nudge and relentless pull is somewhat missing. IT happens when I rev the bike till 7500 + and shift from 1st, 2nd and 3rd. yesterday evening I was shocked that I had pinned the throttle in fourth gear and the bike nowhere near the speeds it usually reaches. I completely roll the throttle back while shifting up/down(at least I try to). But when I roll back the throttle(after I have had the loss of pull in 4th gear instance) and then pull again, the problem somewhat disappears with the bike pulling almost cleanly.
    Are the quick shifts the culprit? Or may be I am shifting incorrectly?

    Where else can the problem be?
    1)ECU : wrong mapping?
    2)Engine : nearing seizure ?
    3)Chain too slack : it's been sometime since I tightened it(more than 700 kms surely. BUt the issue is not there in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gears)
    4)Air intake :air flow problem or airfilter clogged?

  10. #3530
    Addicted NiXTriX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doga View Post
    I have been observing for the past 3-4 days that the bike doesn't pull positively in 4th gear when I upshift from 3. That positive nudge and relentless pull is somewhat missing. IT happens when I rev the bike till 7500 + and shift from 1st, 2nd and 3rd. yesterday evening I was shocked that I had pinned the throttle in fourth gear and the bike nowhere near the speeds it usually reaches. I completely roll the throttle back while shifting up/down(at least I try to). But when I roll back the throttle(after I have had the loss of pull in 4th gear instance) and then pull again, the problem somewhat disappears with the bike pulling almost cleanly.
    Are the quick shifts the culprit? Or may be I am shifting incorrectly?

    Where else can the problem be?
    1)ECU : wrong mapping?
    2)Engine : nearing seizure ?
    3)Chain too slack : it's been sometime since I tightened it(more than 700 kms surely. BUt the issue is not there in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gears)
    4)Air intake :air flow problem or airfilter clogged?

    I too felt the same. I even mentioned it to the SVC guys. He had a test ride and said its all great and there's no problem.
    It couldn't have been the chain slack coz I have been getting it tightened regularly.
    ECU - Doubt it. Mapping is probably not changed so much.
    I suspect the Air intake. This had not been cleaned in the service and I strongly suspect this to be the culprit. going to the SVC tomorrow. Will try and get the filter cleaned.

    I also feel my Front brake has become slightly spongy. Need to check the pads.
    Live to ride.. ride to forget..


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