The Mountain

Masti, the first thing you should do is learn to use the tachometer on your bike. That's actually more useful than the speedometer. Once you do that, the break-in is as follows: Basically, the break-in process detailed in the manual is a way to let the parts inside the engine "get used" to working together. In order to do that, they have to wear off some metal so they fit together properly. Your manual will say "keep the engine below x rpm for the first 500km" or something like that, and then "keep below Y rpm for the next 500km, followed by saying that you can use full rpm after some specified mileage.

What they want you to do is, while watching that rpm limit, ride your bike as inefficiently as possible (really!). Use all the gears. Accelerate hard (but don't exceed that rpm limit) and do lots of in-traffic riding. Do lots of short rides, like 5-7km, just enough to get the engine hot, and then shut it off and let it cool, then do it again. This kind of riding puts maximum wear on the engine. However, don't exceed the rpm limits for each section of the break-in (to prevent engine parts that aren't properly worn from breaking under strain). What you should *not* do is go on rides where you stay at a steady speed the whole time. If you do have to maintain a specific speed, then vary the gear you're in constantly; for example, if you're stuck at 40kmh, then shift constantly. Do some riding in 1st, then shift up to 4th, then 5th, then 2nd, etc. This will vary the engine speed and load (but don't ever go over that rpm limit in the manual).

Keep track of the odometer, so you know when you can change to the next rpm limit. Once you get past the "break-in" intervals, you can start riding more "normally", and not worry about whether you're riding too long at the same speed.

This will have the side benefit of getting you used to the way your bike performs at different rpms, and will help you to learn how to be in the "right" gear for any situation on the road.

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tazz

As I sit here running-in a new engine, I cant help but wonder how much time do people usually take to run-in their new bikes?

Is it better to run-in the bike in short trips or a single big one?

I think the best way is by heading to the twistiest

But most of all, I want to know, how long was your bike in the run-in period.

Noor

Thread approved and merged

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Shubz

I dont know what happened to my earlier post (May be it never went through. But if it did, Mods: I request you to delete this one)

There has been a lot of discussion about how to break in new engines.

The owners manual/the service centers say this: Do not rev the engine beyond 5k rpm. Do not accelerate or decelerate suddenly. Change oil after 1000k. and many more things.

Another school of thought is just the opposite: Motomans method: Alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. Change oil after the first run of 50 kms. Check for leaks etc halfway during this run. Basically advising "Red line the engine from the moment its in your hands"

So biking gurus - Please throw your opinions on this.

sunilg

Query approved and threads merged.

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aargee

@Shubz - You already know my response; I'll let few Gurus like TV & PSR answer.

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kaynmantis

Im no expert. But there are couple of things that one can figure out by common sense.

1. Changing oil early: On new engine, this seems a good advice as new engine can have particles from engine fresh out of factory.

2. I have seen how high end motorcycles are produced. Each engine are subjected to stringent tests, redlining them and what not in the factory. Not surprisingly they also costs a bomb.
There is no way my small bike, that are churned out of the production line in tens of thousands, not forgetting some of the most economical machine on the road has been subjected to such treatment. There is no way the manufacturers will spend so much amount of fuel to put every engine through such testing.

In effect a high end motorcycle used by motoman probably have already done some run in from the factory itself.

3. The material and the level of engineering between a high end engine and an economical engine would not have the same standard.

In conclusion. My motorcycle is some of the cheapest motorcycle on the planet, so I figure the manual method is the right one. Except for changing oil very early. Today after doing 23+ k, my engine has zero problem and behave precisely as it should.

Shubz

Talking of engine doing some run-in at the factory itself. I thought the bores are polished enough (unlike the old engines) and a bit of run-in is done at the just after the assembly line.

So when the bike reaches the end user - he just have to continue from where it was left at the factory - follow whats mentioned in the Owners manual.

While Motoman discounts all that and says - press it hard - not too rash but quite hard so the linings mate well. Filings fall off early - Infuse fresh oil and ride normal.

kaynmantis

Btw, the poll suggests only two extreme opposite choice. Either the guy's a genius or a lunatic. I think there should be a middle ground as well. Cause that's where I believe he stands.