madhav krishna

are they better than the G-power & iridium spark plugs??

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psr

You can do it to on a old spark plug just to experiment as a D I Y .If you are cutting a standard plug remember to keep a metal hacksaw blade between the center electrode and the ground one. This will save the center electrode from being chipped. Otherwise you can buy the standard ones as shown in my post and be happy. For two wheelers it comes with two ground electrodes and will last much longer since there are two electrodes to wear out .

psr

I will reply on the G- power later since I have no knowledge on it....Iridium is purely for making the plug last longer ,with better temperature tolerance,and by making the electrode thinner the iridium will spark even with low output of HT.
The side gapping actually allows the flame kernel to develop into the cylider much quicker than normal spark plugs.
Any side gapped plug whether it is copper shrouded nickel, or Iridium will have this advantage.
Do not opt for platinum plugs as they are notorious for fouling in real life use. They are for a much higher temperature usage.

psr

I just read the G-power plugs spec on NGK site.....It is not side gapped so the benefit is not there....plus it is a platinum plug meant for engines operating at prolonged high temperatures....like Nascar run or most high compression applications. Hope I was helpful.

gixxer_junkie_m

They both are cpr type ,that is center electrode is protruding ,so obviously they are hotter and will self clean up properly.But what i am interested is in how the hesitation was taken care of? any ideas? because my bike is experiencing some jerking at higher revvs .I changed the adapter and it took care of it .But it keeps coming and going .Kindly give the number of the NGK plug shown in the pic.Is it a CR type? and which model is it used for?
I have tried the twin electrode of the rtr ,the bosch one and found it very hot for my bike and reverted back to NGK R CR7E IX.My bike is a 195cc fiero.I have tried NGK R CR8E AND NGK R CR9E too but found that the engine performs better with the stock plug that is NGK R CR7E and the iridium equivalent IX .

ps: engine is a high compression one now.

gixxer_junkie_m

So what you are saying is ,it has a similar affect as indexing the plug?

psr

Indexing a plug will effectively position the ground electrode in a way , to spread the spark kernel ....but the ground electrode is still in the way ,and the flame kernel spreads first horizontally then into the chamber. Side gapping and surface gap plugs actually present the flame kernel into the chamber , and the flame spread is faster and complete.
Performance Unlimited 4-Wheel & Off Road Center - Hartford, Wisconsin - USA Technical Documents please read this to get details. Regarding your other query of which spark plug for the 195 cc bike , it is best to stick to stock spec. first find out the heat range originally recommended and pick a equivalent surface gap one from NGKs site.
The pic i had uploaded is of NGK BP 6 ET(3 electrode) and Bosch(4 Electrode).Both are non resistor type.These are for cars.Denso ,Lucas England,are some of the other manufacturers of similar plugs.You must match the original plugs dimension and HEAT RANGE.... .
If you have any old CR7E or CR8E plugs lying around..then side gap them and see the results.

psr

Since you had increased the compression ratio the stock plug itself is running hot now.CR8E is the way to go.Higher compression and higher RPM will tend to blow the spark away much like our blowing of candle. Try non resistor type and please check whether your HT coil to Plug cap connecting cable shows resistance.If so then try non resistor type.At High RPM the spark event is taking place at a significantly higher speeds and any resistance in serious with the HT will bring down performance. Hope this helps.

psr

Gixxer you said that the RTR plug was hot..what exactly did you mean..was it leading to "pinking" or crack in the center electrode? how did you increase the compression ratio? Have you increased the AF ratio for performance...What is the colour of the CR7E, CR8E, and the RTR plug ? Light to medium tan is ok.White or dark indicates Extremes of temperature.

gixxer_junkie_m

Firstly thanks for the replies.Coming to the rtr plug which is bosch twin electrode one and i bought it because as you know heat range isn't a standard among plug makers .So i thought since the bike shared the same engine as the apache150 i can give it a try.But what i noticed after using it for a few days, was that the engine had an improvement in the initial pick-up, but would heat up real quick that too when ridden in mid-range speeds like within 50kmph.That is ,you can make out right? if you know your bike? that some difference is there.What i was noticing was that the engine noise would go up dramatically ,like the engine would become harsh after just a couple of kms and the heat could be felt clearly.My bike was stock then,that is it was 150 cc and had the stock main jet of 97.5 were as the Apache 150 had 102 main jet.Then whenever i took out the plug to check it ,the plug would be white and clean ,so obviously it was a hotter plug than the NGK R CR7E .Since the heat range numbers aren't standardized between makers, what i did before using the plug was to check the length of the center electrode as bosch ones are protruding types were as the NGK R CR7E is a flush one .As you know in lower to mid range operation ideally the plug should be dark as it means the engine is not running lean and will perform better in higher revvs.So i immediately put back the stock plug and engine was running smoothly and without heating up.
Now the bike is a 195 cc one with a piston top design to increase the compression and the head has been ported too.I have done jetting ,that is the main jet has been increased from the stock 97.5 to 115 . When i was using the coldest plug available for indian made bikes the NGK R CR9E , i took the bike out to the highway and took it to higher revvs and checked the plug to find that the plug was off-white in color were as in city use it'd be choc brown in color.
Coming to the jerking at higher revvs part.The bike gave sharp jerks at around 95 kmph and this jerking can be felt in all the plugs and in every gear.So when the adapter of the plug was changed it became normal with increased acceleration .But the curious thing is this problem keeps coming and going ,like when the bike is started it might be there and after some time it goes .I am suspecting that there might be some shorting somewhere .
I will be buying a 29mm carb next week and i hope to sort this issue out when the carb is installed.Any ideas? i am now rather sure its electrical in nature.I had been facing it since over a few months now and had suspected it be a jetting issue ,but the plug adapter replacement has proved otherwise.
Yes i will read up the link provided by you and i do have a couple of NGK R CR7E plugs here and i will try out the side gapping with them.
After the engine modification ,i had gone to the NGK's american site to look up the help pages on selecting plugs and reading them(not as a pro with reading kit ) thats why i had chosen the colder plugs CR8E and CR9E.But the engine is very refined and smooth when the stock plug is used and its even better when the stock iridium plug is used.The plug is dark in color when in city use.
I clearly remember the dealer saying that the plug adapter has a resistor .Like you mentioned , i am also suspecting that the cable from the HT coil to the adapter has some fault.