ROCKRZ

the problem is your avg will reduce like hell and still you wont feel the difference unless you are planning to rip 24x7. or if you want a offroad bike..

also, the reason, i am saying this is i have burned my pocket while trying to get the 32 mm flat slide carb on my bike (hunk, 150 cc) and it was a bit too much my bike could take and now i am having all sorts of problems with the chain and sprockets and they wear out at 10000 kms at the max

__________________
Suffering from Parked Motorcycle Syndrome

Cant ride ? read this..
http://MechMarvels.wordpress.com

ZMR Engine required... Please put pm if you can source me an engine real cheap.

gixxer_junkie_m

Sorry for hijacking the thread
Yeah i understand what you mean.I am no expert.But the thing is CFM has to be taken into account ,that is ,the ability of the engine as a air pump.The things which affect the CFM are the air filter,the carb venturi size,the intake port geometry,valve size ,the exhaust port geometry,the exhaust type and the cam.As i said,i am no expert and the above mentioned things are studied on a Flow Bench for tuning purpose etc.Basically for a standard engine like ,i am assuming here that you hadn't done any engine modifications(not just air filter) on the above mentioned lines.Then ,like you said it won't make any improvements at all and in fact might reduce the performance of the standard engine through the rev range.
The carb is not a flat slide one ,it's the CV type one of the pulsar 220.

psr

Gixxer nice to know you are in the learning process...the hard way If you replace the stock carb with a larger Venturi one, your air velocity will drop like a brick..your low end will be pathetic..a tricycle will overtake you So don't up the venturi size without taking care of the flow rates...you are knowledgeable in this ,since you had indicated the same.I guess you have your numbers correct...One popular way to increase the low end marginally is by lengthening the manifold between the carb and the cylinder inlet...but then it will be nearly a foot for lower rpm .
Hope you achieve your target..ride safely..

psr

Rockrz you can try upsizing your front sprocket by one tooth, or reduce the back sprocket size with two to three tooth less. This will slow down your vehicle from eating sprockets, and chain

gixxer_junkie_m

The bike has borne the brunt of my learning curve.I have done the silencer mods before too ,the usual stuff like removing the baffle and even putting a bullet's rocket silencer as a cheap FFE.Well then i learn't some lessons and went back to the stock silencer Was forced to actually as the silencer burnt up high heels of the girls on two occasions so wasn't able to study the long term results of the rocket silencer further.
So now i am doing things in a bit more measured way.The electrical problem seems to be coming and going .I sure hope to get it right when i take up the carb installation and silencer jobs .I know very little about electrical matters of the bike thats the problem .

psr

Hi this is great news..you are on the right track of learning. Bullet free flow would have made the bike run hotter..the long term effect will be loss of GF so don't do it.The BOSCH plugs on RTR is BOSCH UR5DDC..equivalent NGK is CPR7EK.Check this thread : Scooter Help - Spark Plugs. I do know a little about bike electronics..enough to confuse you .

Attached Thumbnails

 

vivek_91

i am new around here.. nd i would like some help.
i have a hero honda hunk 2010 with 10k done!
i wanted to improve my performance... heard that the iridium spark plug would give me 8-10% improvement and an air filter would give the same.
is this true? and which brands should i purchase?
pls help me out asap!