BOOO

Thanks a lot OF and pranay, for all the gyan.

6. Screamer Vs. Big bang (?)

__________________
Ride with Angels

Old Fox

Whew! some list of queries these. I cannot of course go into details without falling flat on my key board from exhaustion. Will skim the surface but be as relevant as possible.

The 'angle of the fork' is what is called the 'rake angle'. (see my pervious posts in this thread for illustration of the same) Cruisers are meant to 'cruise' and so have large rake and also large 'trail'. This makes them more stable in a straight line. More stable means more reluctant to change direction. So less 'flickable'.

Steep rake if allied with small 'trail' makes a bike more prone to direction changes. This also means 'unstable' in English.

Normal street bikes have rake angles measuring around 23-25deg and trail values around 2.5 to 3 inches. Cruisers can have the front raked to even 35deg and trail can be 4.5 to 5 inches.

Motorcycles are in fact designed with some bit of inherent stability built into them. If it were not so they would be dangerous or impossible to ride.

Turn radius is more dependent on the 'lock to lock' angle than on wheelbase or rake. For example, the Suzuki Intruder (a cruiser with a long wheelbase and large rake) has a tighter turning circle than the Yamaha R1 (with its shorter wheelbase and steeper rake). The Inturder handle, in simple terms, can be turned through a larger angle measured from full right to full left.

Weight alone is not the defining criteria for tyre choice. Power output, torque produced and speeds possible all carry equal or more importance. Usually, the more the power required to be put down on the road and the faster the bike is expected to travel around corners, the wider are the tyres. And also usually, the wider the tyre the softer its rubber compound can be without getting overwhelmed by the riding loads.

The Bullet, ZMA, P200 or even P220 make almost similar power and so tyre widths and compounds are more or less the same. The R15 is optimized for low weight, low drag and low rolling resistance. So it needed a specially developed soft compound narrow tyre (even though this tyre will not last as long as the ones on other bikes do).

Noob question first : its a very long story with no positive conclusions at the end of the day. The pros and cons can fill pages. Usually, more cylinders for a given capacity means smaller pistons which in turn means quicker revving and higher rpm at red-line. Track bikes or those targeted to high top speeds would preferably have this configuration.

Vice-versa less cylinders means larger pistons, more reciprocating inertia and so relatively slower revving. also piston speeds limit the RPM red-line to lower values. In practical use, better suited for touring/commuting/off-road use.

Your question #2: Trail Braking: you don't maintain speed through a turn. You continue braking almost till the apex and then start accelerating as you straighten the bike out of a turn. See the diagram I'd posted in my previous mail. I cannot get clearer than this.

Abhijeet babu.... this is not ONE question by any standards. These are FIVE questions rolled into one. And again a long story. It will be great if you can whittle them down to specifics that you have confusion about. Discussing the relation between just compression ratio and ignition timing will take more than a few posts.

The primary reason is that ignition timing is a very dynamic activity that varies not only in magnitude but also across time. Discussing the interplay of all elements is just beyond us on a forum. Put up something specific and we'll explore it together.

__________________
I don't let my motorcycles interfere with my motorcycling...

Join xBhp On

Sarvajit

Thanks so much for enlightening this thread, Sandeep Sir!
I have one question-in a traditional 12 volt charging type battery for normal bikes, in spite of the voltage showing 12+volts after charging for 2 hours&also topping up with distilled water, what could be the reason of the charge not flowing correctly to the battery dependent electricals? Like the horn, indicator etc.work properly when the bike is running&battery gets charged during running, but do not work properly if the bike is just started, or is only on ignition on position, without the engine running?
Does it have anything to do with the battery or the bike's wiring? Where to look for the capacitor?

__________________
Quench my thirst with gasoline!

abhijeet080808

Oops! Yes OF it was indeed a complex subject. Well, how about the effect of ignition timing on cylinder pressure before ignition? Cylinder pressure can change due to altitude, temperature and restrictions in the input and output valves, ports etc.

I think more pressure will lead to a quicker ignition and hence need lesser advance from TDC?

Well, the battery can only take a certain amount of load. If you put any extra load, it will strain the battery. Now, let us assume, you have a standard stock bike. If the battery is fully charged, such dimming will not occur. A fully charged battery will show 13.8V. (12+ volt wont do) So yes, it has to do with the battery not being fully charged.

Capacitor? I think you are talking about the P220 or A160 RTR Fi. It should be somewhere near the battery only. No specific info.

__________________
Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!