NitinGirish

With air filter on, air flow is somewhat 'restricted' and hence it could result in lower reading-is this the principle behind this?

He kicked it 3-4times with WOT.

Text book 'ideal' compression would be 9.9 bars (compression ratio as per manual) which in psi=9.9*13.7=136.63. 1bar=13.7psi. Atleast this is the reply I got from Mr.Dilip Bam couple of years back when I had enquired about my 100's compression.

What would be the effect of Bangalore's elevation of 3018ft on this calculation?

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kb100

1 bar is approximately 14.5 psi and not 13.7 so your compression should be about 143psi
and yes the air filter adds resistance to the air flow

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Kawasaki KB100/enduro/125 substitute parts list http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/508615-post105.html

NitinGirish

Oops! Yup, it is 14.7, I stand corrected.

When I go for next service will take care to do this on warm engine and w/o air filter.

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NitinGirish

2000kms almost up on the ODO. Touched 100kmph for the first time yesterday while returning from office (Adugodi-Suraksha Workshop). 1st service was done @1300kms. Gear shifts are much smooth now. Smokes like an autorickshaw maybe because I added 300ml Motul 510 to 8 Litres along with Autolube which has been calibarated to pump more oil. Once I see the 2T oil tank emptying at good pace I will stop pre-mixing.

Another major update is that, FINALLY all formalities w.r.t to getting new registration number is completed. I blocked a number today. I will get the new smart card by next week. A major action item closed and its a big relief for me

Bought RDD CDI few weeks back. My hectic schedule hasn't allowed me to get it installed. Most probably I will get it installed next Saturday.



Bought a brand new (Pricol) 2T oil pump also. I will monitor the 2T oil tank closely for next few weeks and based on what I see, will replace the pump.



Following are the pending jobs:-

• Install brand new clutch bell
• Install RDD CDI
• Install (if need be) brand new 2T oil pump

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yamdoot

Nice! good to see a positive update Nitin. Looks like more n more guys are switching over to the RDD CDI on xbhp! Smart move. Where are you getting it fitted?

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1985 Yamaha RD350 HT
1989 Race winner Ki-Honda 110
1994 Suzuki Shogun Rally prep.
1997 Yamaha RXG stock
2008 Yamaha FZ

No Cams, No Valves, No Headaches.

NitinGirish

Planning it to get it done by Asghar. Hopefully next Saturday.

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NitinGirish

After many days of scheduling and postponing, finally got it installed today.


My curiousty with the CDI began sometime around May 2009. My biggest worry was the installation. Apart from riding, filling petrol and what I've studied about internal combustion engines in Std 9, I know nothing about bikes Besides, I had only RX100 those days and from what I could gather on an RX100 install is not as easy as RX 135.

With this bike, I had no emotional attachment like RX100 and so was willing to experiment a bit.

Bike is 2002 model RX 135 4 Speed with fat cat-con. Magnet & Coil plate assy are stock that came from the factory.

Bought Mico W5BC & Activa plug cap.

Plug cap reading: 5.05
Source Coil reading: 0.8 (presume 80 Ohms??)
Battery: 13 (Measured when bike was NOT started)

Wiring harness looks like this:-



Coil Plate:



Grounding 1



Grounding 2



Final Mounting



Please let me know if there has been any mistake while installing. There was no old cycle tube handy so wrapped it in polythene cover and taped it. It is NOT touching/rubbing against tank or anything.

Bike revvs much better now. This bike is now, where my RX100 is already is in terms of free revving. Earlier do 40kmph in 3rd gear and you would feel resistance. But now it revvs upto 60kmph easily. On stock CDI, RX 135 4 Speed is like having intense foreplay and then a severe anti-climax. With digital CDI, you don't bother yourself with the foreplay at all

I am not too sure the bike is running any cooler though. Let me commute next week and update this comment but this is the biggest expectation I had from the CDI. That even after 20-25kms of commuting in rush hour traffic, I should be able to touch the head. My initial impression is it is not runnning any cooler.

Like Arvind said, if I change to cat-con I should see even better revvs. But I will take sometime to make that decision. As of now I am happy with the additional revvs.

Long-term durablity and reliablity-only time will tell that. Going by many people's experiences it should be good. If you are running on cat-con this product is a worthy investment assuming long term durablity & reliablity of bore-piston is unaffected.
OT: Got to ride pillion on Arvind's RD today. They need to put on a seat belt to that bike DO NOT TAKE A GIRL ON AN RD EVER.

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aargee

Seems like a good job Nitin; hope you scarped off some paint when grounding; also ensure you've routed through a fuse which is the best approach as the fuse takes the brunt even if there's a short circuit protecting the CDI.

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Patience pays...The Vulture's virtue is patience and the bird always get it's food - Wise man saying

This is not a bakery. I don't sugar coat anything. If you ask for my opinion...then that's what you'll get. Don't be mad when it's not what you want to hear

yamdoot

Nice n clean install Nitin. Good to see you have atleast 2 grounds. One thing i'd like to tell you is, always connect the brown +12v. wire the last [after double checking the rest of the connections] and its a good idea to have a fuse box between the brown wire and the bikes wiring harness counterpart. Pulsar fusebox is a direct fit there.

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1985 Yamaha RD350 HT
1989 Race winner Ki-Honda 110
1994 Suzuki Shogun Rally prep.
1997 Yamaha RXG stock
2008 Yamaha FZ

No Cams, No Valves, No Headaches.

NitinGirish

Thank You Ganesh & Nitesh for your feedback. Yes, fuse box is used. Infact bought a fuse box while installing and the installer (Asgar) was particular about NOT running it without fuse. He has clearly instructed that if fuse blows, replace fuse immediately and NEVER try it to run w/o one as I might damage CDI.

And yes, paint was scraped off and then sandpaper used for preparing space for grounding.

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