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Old 05-23-2009, 09:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Able to stop now(DISK brake setup)

Hey all,
After the conversion of the RX 100 to the RX135 5S the bike was not stopping when I really needed it to. Had got the brakes redone and everything was tried.
we also tried to fit the Pulsar front Wheel set so that we can accommodate the Disk brake and also upgrade to the 17 inch wheels and better tires that are only available in 17 inch (in 18 inch they have the most stupid tires but none is tubeless). With the Pulsar setup the aligntment was not correct too many mods would have been needed to do it to run flawlessly.
We decided to go for a Stunner Wheel set that is a 17 inch. But again non availability of the wheels was a problem. The R15 wheels and brakes were also considered but again did not want to spend as much as my bike on just the wheels tires and brakes.

This is what we ended up doing







Got the wheel and the disk centered from a Machine shop. Got the wheel drilled and the disk was fixed.
The caliper mount was welded to the right fork tube. I know the question is how safe it is.
This was my question. The answer I got was "For some money I just can’t risk some one’s life, don’t worry my friend brakes are more important than the engine."
For now we are running the KBX setup and would be moving to the Yamaha master cylinder and Nissin or a Brembo Caliper according to the availability in next few days.
Maybe also would go for a 17 incher setup.
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Old 05-24-2009, 08:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Good one there. Nothing like discs to stop a moving vehicle quick!
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Old 05-24-2009, 11:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
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This looks like an extremely dicey setup to me. What sort of welding is that?

Your best, most cost-effective option is to replace the lower tubes with that of a Pulsar and simply use the Pulsar paraphernalia to make it work. To me, using the alloy wheels isn't as important of getting the job done right.
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Old 05-24-2009, 12:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That'll be TIG welding and if done correctly the setup can be safely used. In rare cases you'll have a warped fork-leg or in the worst case scenario...it'll snap off under heavy braking.
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Old 05-24-2009, 12:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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That'll be TIG welding.
How come you guys know so much! Don't tell me you are a professional welder. They do not come writing English the way you do!
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Old 05-24-2009, 12:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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That'll be TIG welding and if done correctly the setup can be safely used. In rare cases you'll have a warped fork-leg or in the worst case scenario...it'll snap off under heavy braking.
Yeah, I was hoping it would be TIG. And the snapping off is exactly what I'd be worried about, TIG or not.
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Old 05-24-2009, 03:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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How come you guys know so much! Don't tell me you are a professional welder. They do not come writing English the way you do!
Ken da... these fork legs are aluminum and afaik the only options with aluminum are TIG and Riveting. I think there are also some chemical bonding agents but those are probably not applicable in this case.

Everything I know about bikes is through the people I meet and I havent even begun to scratch the surface.
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsferrari View Post
Ken da... these fork legs are aluminum and afaik the only options with aluminum are TIG and Riveting. I think there are also some chemical bonding agents but those are probably not applicable in this case.

Everything I know about bikes is through the people I meet and I havent even begun to scratch the surface.
Add MIG welding to the list.

That setup looks OK, but nothing stronger/better than riveting when it comes to Aluminium. There's a reason even the aircraft industry rivets aluminium parts together
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:56 AM   #10 (permalink)
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and I havent even begun to scratch the surface.
Oh my oh my!

Quote:
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Add MIG welding to the list.
What's MIG now?

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Tungsten Inert Gas! Thanks.
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