Thread: Beyond Rohtang - Solo Ride to Pangonglake

Solo Ride from :Ramprastha (Ghaziabad)-Udhampur-Sonmarg-Kargil-Leh-Khardungla-Hunder-Leh-Pangong Lake-Upshi-Pang-Baralacha-Keylong-Manali-Ghaziabad (3000 Kms.)
Total expenditure : Rs. 10,000 +/- ( including fuel cost= Rs.3200; Room Rent total= Rs. 2200; Shopping = Rs. 1500)
Model : Caliber 115 ( 2003 model)
Myself: Age 55+ years

Prelude:

It was in November, 1988 when I had gone to Rohtang Pass for the first time. It was fag end of the year and about 2 kms. from the Rohtang Pass all the private vehicles and taxies were kept stranded on the road since the whole area was covered with thick snow. Since we were in the Himachal Roadways Deluxe bus, which had the iron chains to be fixed on the Tyres, the driver dared to move forward and we were able to reach Rohtang Pass. There were not many tourists at Rohtang Pass and we could see the peaks covered with snow all over. Although I had the urge to go to the other end of the Rohtang Pass to see what lay on the other side of the snowcovered Rohtang Pass but due to lack of time and deteriorating weather conditions had to return.

Thereafter, whenever I read any article or saw any photograph of Rohtang Pass (claimed to be the pile of corpses) the urge to know what lay on the otherside on the famous “Silk Route” used to haunt me.

Now, after 24 years, I have got the answer when I covered this route Solo, not only upto Rohtang but far far ahead upto Ladakh, on my Caliber 115 bike surpassing all the fears.

The Journey

I got my 15 days leave sanctioned from 11th September well in advance. Although it is believed to be the fag end of the season, I could get the leave only for these days due to heavy work load in office. In fact, till the last day of my departure, I was working in office almost 7 days a week and could manage the necessary luggage and other items, including spare parts for the bike, whenever I got little time. I could not even get my bike serviced from the Bajaj Service Centre before departure.


Besides browsing through Google Earth to have a glimpse of the entire route, one of my regular routines , besides looking at the Manali Leh Road status on various websites, was to observe the satellite images (half hourly) shared by Indian Meterological Department . Here is the link :

http://www.imd.gov.in/section/satmet/img/india.jpg

Day 1 – Ramprastha (Ghaziabad) to Udhampur

At last the D.Day came and since I had already packed by bags with all the necessary items listed by me, time and again, and I left for Udhampur at 3.30 a.m. on 11th Sept. 2011. There is nothing much exciting to writing of first day except that I bypassed Jammu and reached Udhampur by 6.45 p.m.

First day photographs :

Travelogue approved.

Wow! inspirational

Originally Posted by satyenpoojary

Wow! inspirational

+ 100 to that .Keep it coming AbraKaDabra sir ji.

Awesome Sir. I was touring the region pretty much around the same time. I wish we could have met. Keep the log coming

Thanks SunilG, Satyenpoojary, Beruoist, Ananz.

Ananz it would have been nice had we met there, then I would have covered Tsomoriri as well. Since I could not overcome loneliness and there was no one to talk to at the end of the day, no mobile connectivity, no STD, I returned from Pangonglake. Had also been to Hunder. Wait for complete travelogue.

BTW did you post any travelogue (Ananz). I would love to read that.

After a lot of research, I had drawn this map which was quite useful in this trip.

Originally Posted by AbraKaDabra

Thanks SunilG, Satyenpoojary, Beruoist, Ananz.

Ananz it would have been nice had we met there, then I would have covered Tsomoriri as well. Since I could not overcome loneliness and there was no one to talk to at the end of the day, no mobile connectivity, no STD, I returned from Pangonglake. Had also been to Hunder. Wait for complete travelogue.

BTW did you post any travelogue (Ananz). I would love to read that.

Yes Sir... i just managed to complete my travelogue a couple of weeks ago...
A Conversation with Me, Myself and my Autobot.
please do give it a read when you find time....

and yes agreed... solo trips can get a little lonely sometimes... but on the other hand it can take you to your limit and bring back with your best...
Now glued to your log Sir.. bring them on

Day 2 (12th September, 2011) (time 6 a.m.) Target - Udhampur to Sonmarg

Started my journey and on the way found Indian Armymen patrolling at every 200 - 400 metres on the highway. Although it didn't trouble me at all but was reminded that I was now in the Militant stricken zone of Kashmir. After driving for almost 5 hours, I reached the famous Jawahar Tunnel. The tunnel was quite narrow and it was quite dark and it was quite damp inside. It is under the Army control and I was stopped at entry and thoroughly checked. Immediately after passing through the tunnel, I got the breathtaking view of the Kashmir Valley from the Titanic View. Reached Srinagar by afternoon and had Coffee at Cafe Coffee Day. Appreciated the structures but could not spot the traditional wooden structured houses with red or green coloured roof tops. Most of the rooftops were fitted with new silver tin sheets (may be the houses were refurnished/refabricated). May be militancy had taken its toll of the traditional houses. Drove my bike along the Dal Lake and saw the houseboats and the famous Char Chinar. The atmosphere was peaceful but there were not many tourists. It was about 1.30 p.m. and time for Tea with Pakodas in a small market by the side of Dal. After some rest, moved forward and left my Dream destination and moved towards Sonmarg.

The Roads were still in good condition (but narrow while crossing Srinagar) and drove past the reputed disturbed areas like Anantnag, Doda not far away. Although there was no sign of Army in the city area, but local police was all around. Had a last look at all these areas and drove out of the Kashmir valley by late afternoon.

The climate was very pleasant and no signs of chill so far. By early evening I reached Sonmarg and booked room for night stay as I wanted to leave for Zozila pass next morning, as early as I would be permitted. (I went to the check post and asked the likely time I could leave next morning. As I was the only person on bike, he told me to come at around 8.00 a.m. Generally the four wheel vehicles are allowed to leave for Zozila pass at 10.00 a.m. after the Military convoy from Zozila pass reaches Sonmarg.)


Few photographs of Srinagar and Sonmarg











These are Wooden block of Cricket Bats (in lakhs ?) that were placed in the open all over the village on the way. But why do we not get any Nation Level Cricketer from J & K ?) Due to Militancy ?????

Going good Abra, keep it up