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Thread: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

  1. #61
    Rookie gajah_gendut's Avatar
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    hello everyone. this is regulator/rectifier schematic for your bike. you can make your own powerful RR for your bike. i'm sure the components are easy to find in your local electronic shop.
    i have posted this schema in some forums (in indonesian lang). but i'll try to translate in english.


    Try to click this pic to enlarge it.

    this is the translation :
    - Menuju kunci kontak (+) = to ignition key 12V (+).
    - Monitor tegangan pengisian = voltage charging monitor
    - Fungsi regulator = voltage regulation function
    - Fungsi rectifier/kiprok = rectifier function
    - Aki 12V = 12V battery

    Component list :
    - SCR1,2,3 = Thyristor SCR 25A, NTE5460 or ECG5460 or teccor S4025L/S6025L (model TO-220)
    - Q1 = transistor PNP 65W 10A, TIP42 (model TO-220)
    - Z1 = Diode Zener 12V 1watt
    - D1-5 = Diode 1N4148
    - R1 = resistor 47R 0,25W
    - R2 = resistor 22R 0.5W
    - R3-8 = resistor 680R 0,5W
    - VR1 = potesio trimmer, 100R
    - C1 = elec. cap 10uF 35V
    - D6-D10 = diode min 15A 200V.

    For single phase stator, remove D5, R7, R8, D8, D10. and rectifier can be replaced by a 25/35A diode bridge rectifier.

    you can adjust voltage output with the trimmer potensiometer (VR1).
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    I apologize for my terrible English ....

  2. #62
    Rusted Shreeni0403's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lakhanironak View Post
    but the terminals are wrongly placed as the pulsar has its battery on the right side and my bike has it on the left. So I somehow adjusted the battery and connected the terminals.

    After connecting the 9ah battery, these are the differences i observed. The HID started without much effort. After Stablizing, I could operate the rest of the DC electricals i.e, horn, indicators without any problem, No fluctuation in HID nor there was a problem with sound of the horn or dimming of indicators.

    So I conclude from this that ill have to change to a new battery. Ill go in for the AMARON ProBikeRider Battery which has a 60 month warranty.

    Also I was trying to look around for the RR unit and couldnt find one. AFAIK the RR unit is supposed to be placed before the charger.
    First of all your bike must be having 5aH stock battery bcz 7aH and 9aH battery terminals are exactly at same place. Anyway not a issue.

    Upgrading battery alone is not sufficient, better charging is also needed. If charging is better then there is no need of upgrading battery.

    Sorry can't reply for rest part as i am unable to see images what you have posted.
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    Quote Originally Posted by gajah_gendut View Post
    This is basic motorcycle AC lighting.

    Orange wire is AC supply for lighting. White for charging battery. Red to battery 12V (+). And black connected to ground/frame/battery (-).

    If you want to convert lighting to DC, this what you can do.

    You must unsolder stator ground and lighting wire (orange) from stator solder tab. Then orange wire connected to ground wire. solder them together and add heatshrink tube cover exposed solder joint.
    Now, white and orange wires become input your new full wave RR.
    Very well explained. But how do you do it for a bike like Unicorn/CBF 150 where there is single coil and the AC headlight power is differentiated in RR unit. Meaning, only 2 wires come out from coil buy RR unit splits some part of the coil current into AC for headlight and some into DC for battery charging !!

    In simple - there is no orange wire.
    ●▬╡[-̲̅■̲̅■̲̅■̲̅ ̲̅S̲̅ђ̲̅я̲̅є̲̅є̲̅ ̲̅■̲̅■̲̅■̲̅-]╞▬●

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    Rusted princesirohi's Avatar
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    @ gajah: i will opt for the 1st option. there may be problem with 2nd and 3rd options coz current will be phase shifted, so i dont know how it will behave.

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    Rusted abhijeet080808's Avatar
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    @gajah_gendut - Excellent Explanation dude. Option 2 (parallel connection) is very good for those who do not want to go for rewinding and need a 35W HID or 60/55W only at max.

    @lakhanironak - That looks like an ignition relay.

    @princesirohi- From your post, option 2 will just give more voltage, not more current. Option 1 is what you need.

    And about number of turns for 100/90W, you need atleast 8-10 turns of 19 gauge wire on a single pole from one end to another, and 6-7 such layers over each pole. This way you need to cover all 7 poles in alternate winding direction for each. basically, you will nedd to use up around 200grams of copper wire. Neat and taut winding is the key. That's all the details you need.
    Last edited by abhijeet080808; 01-29-2010 at 11:01 AM.
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    Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!

  5. #65
    Rookie gajah_gendut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shreeni0403 View Post
    ----------


    Very well explained. But how do you do it for a bike like Unicorn/CBF 150 where there is single coil and the AC headlight power is differentiated in RR unit. Meaning, only 2 wires come out from coil buy RR unit splits some part of the coil current into AC for headlight and some into DC for battery charging !!

    In simple - there is no orange wire.

    i don't know your unicorn wiring, but if only 2 wires (what color?, blue n white?), i think your bike has similar stator with honda wave in indonesia.

    maybe i can figure like this


    and you can reroute by adding one more wire to new full wave RR.


    that what i've done with honda wave (all series)

    does your RR similar to my attachment ?
    that is RR from honda wave.
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Last edited by gajah_gendut; 01-29-2010 at 12:23 PM.
    I apologize for my terrible English ....

  6. #66
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    @ abhijeet: thanks dude, so that makes approximately 70 turns per winding coil.

    @ gajah: man change your signature dear, its ok to have poor english, nobody will punish you for that.

  7. #67
    Rusted sajjt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gajah_gendut View Post
    i don't know your unicorn wiring, but if only 2 wires (what color?, blue n white?), i think your bike has similar stator with honda wave in indonesia.

    maybe i can figure like this


    and you can reroute by adding one more wire to new full wave RR.


    that what i've done with honda wave (all series)

    does your RR similar to my attachment ?
    that is RR from honda wave.
    Dude, this is what we are suggesting here, take off the gnding and feed it to a a higher cap full wave RR to feed the batt. On the other mods, without rewinding the coil, the stock coil wont be able to feed a 90/100W halo may be a 55/60W can by combining together with the light+charging coils with extra RR. But how long u've been with this parallel charging setup? And what was the performance of the AC lighting after tapping? Am sure that its more than sufficient for an HID.

    Ur custom RR seems to be meaty, Similar designs we've got here from Abhi and from other forums. But its takes time to test it out, once I tried and failed so sticked to another OEM RR which is capable of doing the job, time is money friend Its just a bolt on job rather sourcing components, assembling, securing it with heatsinks. Personally I dont want to do it again. But for those who want to try with very cost effective mod, its a real inspiring one.

    Any way many thoughts are pouring in, so is our options too. But let me suggest one thing, Pls post the mods only if u've done it successfully for atleast for one or two months trials. Else, there can be others fall into a big mess which we dont want to happen. Since u r from another country, there can be diff in identifying the wires by colour, but thats not a big issue for a person knows what to do. We are here to share our experiences to help others, where even the sevice people are unaware or they even think that its something like a top national security secret not to be shared among with the owners. I dont want to hurt anyone but to be safe, just my suggestion only for others peace of mind.
    Do it Yourself, what so ever, if Possible
    -----------------------------------------

    After Market HID Projector Mod for Pulsar 150
    Flasher Enabled Head Light Flash for Just Rs.1/-

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    Rusted Shreeni0403's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gajah_gendut View Post
    i don't know your unicorn wiring, but if only 2 wires (what color?, blue n white?), i think your bike has similar stator with honda wave in indonesia.

    maybe i can figure like this


    and you can reroute by adding one more wire to new full wave RR.


    that what i've done with honda wave (all series)

    does your RR similar to my attachment ?
    that is RR from honda wave.
    Nope !! My RR is different from your attachment and stator also.. The first post of my thread shows the stator of Unicorn..
    ●▬╡[-̲̅■̲̅■̲̅■̲̅ ̲̅S̲̅ђ̲̅я̲̅є̲̅є̲̅ ̲̅■̲̅■̲̅■̲̅-]╞▬●

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    Rusted sajjt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shreeni0403 View Post
    Nope !! My RR is different from your attachment and stator also.. The first post of my thread shows the stator of Unicorn..
    Man he's right and telling the same what we were discussing, only thing is he's from another place so corelating with spares are not that easy. He's got some nice ideas to put in

    gajah_gendut go ahead man
    Do it Yourself, what so ever, if Possible
    -----------------------------------------

    After Market HID Projector Mod for Pulsar 150
    Flasher Enabled Head Light Flash for Just Rs.1/-

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    tommorrow i m taking leave so that i get 2 days...saturday & sunday for modifications....bad thing is the winding guy will take atleast two days to carry out the job....anyhow lets see....first i will try try with existing winding (will remove the ground of lighting coil and feed to another RR unit) and two RR units.

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