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Thread: ---DIY paint job---

  1. #1
    Rusted petrolhead_chn's Avatar
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    Default ---DIY paint job---

    Before you begin, I would like to emphasize the fact that the most vital ingredient necessary for a DIY paint job is PATIENCE and just PATIENCE.Take frequent breaks please.

    Vehicle:
    Bajaj Pulsar 150cc

    Purpose:
    Minor scratches on the bike over years of usage and the bike gave a dull outlook. I decided it was time to revamp the looks.

    Materials required:

    1. Bosny spray cans - 400ml x 4
    2. Bosny clear spray - 400ml x 2
    3. ESD putty - 1 box
    4. ESD primer - 1/2 litre (or) Bosny primer grey - 400ml x 4cans
    5. Thinner - 1 litre
    6. Putty blade - 2 nos
    7. Sand paper grits - 2000 / 1500 / 1000/ 600
    8. Masking tape - 3M / ABRO
    9. Paint brush - 2 inch x 2
    10. Bike stickers as necessary

    Tools required:

    1. Fuel tank removal - 12 inch ring spanner
    2. Fuel cap, pet cock and fuel gauge removal - phillips/star screw driver
    3. For bikes with fairing kits - as per demand
    4. Shields - bike key
    5. Rear grab bars - 14 inch bit and socket or ring spanner
    6. Rear fenders - Phillips/star screw driver
    7. Rags
    8. First aid kit
    9. A bucket of water

    Procedure:

    Removal


    1. Remove the fuel tank from the bike after removing the seats and side shields. Empty the fuel out of the tank as it makes easier to handle the tank.

    2. Remove the fuel cap, fuel pet cock and fuel gauge and mask or rather seal those removed areas with the masking tape.

    3. Remove any additional attachments to the tank as per necessity.

    Stripping and Filling

    4. The most important step is to completely scrap out the existing layers for long lasting finish and quality. You could sandblast the tank which is best recommended, time saving and economical as well.

    5. Use the putty and putty blade to fill the dents on the tank. Take small amounts of putty and apply it on areas of dents to patch it up. It usually dries immediately. Let it dry for about half hour.

    6. The surface might appear coarse at this stage which is alright.

    Sanding

    7. Use the sand paper to rub the treated areas starting from 600 > 1000. You may also need to wet sand when using 600 and 1000 grit by soaking the sand paper in water for at least half hour. At the end of sanding the surface should be smooth.

    Priming

    8. Once the putty is done the next will be priming the surface. Mix the primer and thinner in 1:1 ratio. Usually a spray gun is used to layer the base coat for which we will need an air compressor. This becomes complicated. So there are two ways to have this done-

    a. use a 2 inch paint brush to paint the surface with primer solution. The surface may have the brush imprints. And this can be sanded later using the grits we have. This is what I did.

    b. get the Bosny primer grey spray can and use it

    9. Once the surface is primed, let it dry for about half hour to begin the sanding process.

    Sanding

    10. Again, start with 600 grit to remove very coarse patches, then 1000 grit to fine tune the surface approximately.

    11. Go over the surface again with primer solution in 1:1 ratio with a new paint brush and repeat step 10.

    12. The trick here is to use the 2000 grit paper now to sand the surface and again wet sand the surface. When you run your finger over the surface there should not be any bumps or brush/spray marks. This stage is very very critical and requires lot of patience. Take a break if needed. I actually lost my patience at this stage.

    Spraying

    13. Now the fuel tank is ready to be sprayed with the color of your choice.

    14. Warm up about 2 litres of water and ensure it is luke warm in the bucket. Put one of the spray can in the warm water. Occasionally keep shaking the can vigorously. Repeat this for about 5 minutes.

    15. Take the can out and shake the bottle vigorously for about 5 minutes again. Please note that this is critical and ensures that the color pigments inside the can mixes well with the aerosol so that once you spray on the metal the aerosol escapes leaving the pigments behind.

    16. Hold the can upright with a distance of at least 5-6inches between the tank and can. Before you actually begin the spraying on tank, practice the spray on some cardboard material. Do not use the press/release technique as this is not an air compressor. Make use of the pressure within the can.

    17. Once you are confident, press and hold the nozzle tight to about 3/4 and move the can in right-left directions sideways as you hold the nozzle down. Release the nozzle only when you have completed a layer.

    18. Remember, several thin layers of spray is what we need rather than 2 heavy coats of spray. Again, patience is very very essential. Take a break if necessary.

    19. Allow the surface to dry for about an hour.

    20. Repeat the step 17 and 18 for about 3 thin coats.

    21. Allow it to dry overnight.

    22. Follow the steps above to the rest of the parts like shields, chain cover, fairing etc.,

    22. Check if there is over spray or bumps anywhere. If found, use the 1500 grit and 2000 grit and wet sand the surface.

    Clear coat

    23. Time to bring the gloss effect here. This can be bought by the usage of clear coat and a hardener on top of it. When I sprayed my bike, I did not know of this.

    24. Purchase a good clear coat 250 ml and hardener 150 ml and take the fuel tank, shields, fender and fairing to a local paint shop who would spray it with clear first and then hardener.

    25. Stay with the painter and have him spray 2 coats of clear and then 1 coat hardener. Once this is done leave it to dry which may take up to 3 hours.

    26. Bring it back home and leave it to dry for about 2days.

    Results:

    Reassemble the parts in order carefully. Job well done if all is done well!
    I did not have proper information when I sprayed my pulsar. Hence I used clear from Bosny itself. I used tank cover once the clear dried. So I did not have this problem of petrol oozes on it at bunks. You may do the same as well but remember to allow the first layer of clear to dry before going to the second layer.

    But on my Avenger I did the clear on a paint shop and paid 300/- for labor.

    The key to successful paint job is not the materials used or procedures but PATIENCE, CONSISTENCY and WILLINGNESS by TAKING BREAKS FREQUENTLY.

    ---DISCLAIMER---

    I am a fond lover of doable DIY projects. I have take utmost care and caution in doing this with all risks vested upon me. While the outcome may vary on each bike, I strongly recommend you to completely understand your bike and then go ahead with similar DIYs. Though I would be glad to answer any of your questions. I am not responsible for any kind of outcome of such DIY.

    Please take help and clarify before getting in to the job!!!
    Feel free to PM for any questions!

    Hope you all liked it.
    Thank you for reading!!!

    ----------
    The pictures that I could find on my phone
    ----------

    STRIPPING
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    MASKING

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    PRIMING

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    SPRAYING AND CLEAR


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    RESULT

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    Important tips

    1. Never start off without consolidating all materials at one place.

    2. Have a time table and stick to the schedule. If you can do just sanding for one just do it and nothing else.

    3. Decide if you want to do the clear coating by yourself or through a painter. It matters.

    4. Sanding the surface before color is very important. Any coarse patches would show up once you spray. Ask your friend or family member to do a quality check. We are not going to show case our paint job at any exhibition.

    5. 2000 grit sandpaper is very important.

    6. Always wash the surface before beginning a another procedure.

    7. The distance at which you hold the can away from object determines the quality of job and avoids over spray.

    8. Several thin layers is what recommended for durable finish instead of 2 thick layers.

    9. If you over sprayed just ignore and proceed. It can be taken once dried by wet sanding.

    10. Do the paint job in a ventilated area with good sunlight. The aerosol pigments settles down on nearby objects and becomes powder. So cover the nearby objects like washing machine, another bike, wall, windows, etc., to avoid passive spraying.

    11. If you intend to do the clear coat and hardener through a painter, talk to him first if he can just help with clear coat alone. Tell him you received this tank and plastics from a friend who abandoned the paint job and put the bike to scrap.
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Last edited by petrolhead_chn; 08-02-2013 at 12:47 PM.
    My DIY(s) - Sprocket bearing change | Paint job | Custom speedo dial

    Getting angry at somebody is the same as getting angry with a bike that just won't go. You should stop and start thinking.
    A good mechanic will let you watch even without charging you for it. | Riding faster than everyone else only guarantees youll ride alone.

    It is funny to know that we've been imitated and copied so well
    and surprising when we notice our mistakes are copied as well.

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    Default Re: ---DIY paint job---

    DIY Approved

    Thanks for posting. But the pictures are not visible. Could you please repost the pictures. Thanks
    rreneav1987 likes this.
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    Default Re: ---DIY paint job---

    Finally a DIY painting thread. Members please Enhance this thread
    You sure have a lot of patience. Pictures are not working, please fix that.

    My friend is planning to re-paint his old CT-100. The painter asked Rs.3500. I've seen his work on other bikes and not impressed very much. Almost all painters who paint 2 wheelers in my place are like this only. They are good only with patch works. when we contacted car painting shops they are quoting very high prices but guarentee the quality saying that they use 2k paints which cost 3600 per liter. so we are thinking of painting the bike ourselves.

    Are spray cans reliable in terms of quality?
    what kind of primer should we use on metal?(excluding spray cans) please mention some brands.
    Does painting with a spray gun requires lot of experience? we can get compressor spray gun for a rent of Rs.300 per day.
    what do you recommend for an amateur - spray can or spray gun?

    Also are there any heat resistant paints(brands) and anti-rust paints to paint the silencers?
    anand roy and petrolhead_chn like this.

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    Rusted nadz11.ns's Avatar
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    Default Re: ---DIY paint job---

    also i would like to add one thing.. the sanding process should be done to each and every cm of the body..
    what you have done is good, but since you didn't sand the whole tank evenly, it would have given a much better finish..
    Adilkadri123 likes this.

    Ride safe and have fun.
    Regards
    Nadeem


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    Rusted sandeepcf's Avatar
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    Default Re: ---DIY paint job---

    Bosny paints give coarse finish. when the paint dries up it appears as if it is powder coated. we painted CT100 using bosny and not satisfied even after spraying 4 coats.

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    Rusted petrolhead_chn's Avatar
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    Default Re: ---DIY paint job---

    Quote Originally Posted by sandeepcf View Post
    Are spray cans reliable in terms of quality?
    what kind of primer should we use on metal?(excluding spray cans) please mention some brands.
    Does painting with a spray gun requires lot of experience? we can get compressor spray gun for a rent of Rs.300 per day.
    what do you recommend for an amateur - spray can or spray gun?

    Also are there any heat resistant paints(brands) and anti-rust paints to paint the silencers?
    The pictures are visible now.

    Bosny and Kobe are good brands and are reliable. I have used Bosny.
    The best and most common primer that you can get would be ESD. You can also use a fine brush to prime and then sand it.
    Spray gun is certainly easier. But I suggest you practice spraying using a gun and get to know the nozzle settings before you actually start off.
    A good spray can with loads and loads of patience will do a better job than a gun and compressor. However you could use gun and compressor for the clear coat.

    Hope that answers your queries. Please ask more questions if you have any!
    All the best with your DIY!
    My DIY(s) - Sprocket bearing change | Paint job | Custom speedo dial

    Getting angry at somebody is the same as getting angry with a bike that just won't go. You should stop and start thinking.
    A good mechanic will let you watch even without charging you for it. | Riding faster than everyone else only guarantees youll ride alone.

    It is funny to know that we've been imitated and copied so well
    and surprising when we notice our mistakes are copied as well.

  7. #7
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    Default Painting a bare-metal Fuel tank

    I have a raw metal Royal Enfield tank and need to start painting it soon else it will start rusting.


    I have practiced painting on my bicycle and the job looks good but I am not confident that it is the right approach. Here is what I did:
    - Stripped all the paint using paint remover, sanding paper and an electric sander for tough spots.
    - Applied Esdee Putty/metal filler into the holes caused by corrosion
    - Applied red oxide coats for rust proofing
    - Applied Bosny flat black 2 coats


    I noticed that the red oxide coat does not stick well on the metal and so is not the best primer for the job.


    So I started looking at Esdee products.
    Here are the instructions on the cans:
    1. Prime with Esdee Super Auto oil Primer (allow to dry overnight)
    2. Apply Esdee Primer Surfacer grey - allow it to dry for a couple of hours
    3. Apply Esdee Putty / metal filler
    4. Wet sanding
    5. Apply 3-4 coats of Esdee Cellocoat Automotive Paint with thinner




    Has anyone used these products before ? Kindly share your experience painting the metal body of an automobile.


    Thanks!
    srikany likes this.

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    Rusted petrolhead_chn's Avatar
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    Default Re: Painting a bare-metal Fuel tank

    Quote Originally Posted by Kent Pawar View Post
    Here are the instructions on the cans:
    1. Prime with Esdee Super Auto oil Primer (allow to dry overnight)
    2. Apply Esdee Primer Surfacer grey - allow it to dry for a couple of hours
    3. Apply Esdee Putty / metal filler
    4. Wet sanding
    5. Apply 3-4 coats of Esdee Cellocoat Automotive Paint with thinner
    If I may share my thoughts....
    These instructions are for professionals with sander, air compressor and spray gun. Do you have such equipment? If you do have 'em have you mastered using them? If you are good on these equipment then go ahead else read further.

    It is like this--


    Hardener
    Clear coat - 2/3 thin layers
    color - several thin layers
    Primer
    Putty
    Metal


    1. Rip off maximum paint from metal such that it is coarse enough to hold the putty (sandpaper is good enough).
    2. Wash the surface with degreaser - I used Vim liquid
    3. Apply Esdee putty on areas with minor dents or too many streaks on it. Allow it to dry completely. It takes about an hour.
    4. Sand first using 1000 grit and then with 1500 grit. The surface should neither be too soft or coarse.
    5. Top tip here is, if you intend to spray primer on top of putty, you need to wet sand using 2000 grit also for fine finish which is very very important. Primer can be sprayed using spray gun or readily availabile in aerosol cans.
    5. If you intend to use primer - spray the primer, allow to dry and wet sand it. You may want to spray another layer of primer and repeat procedure for better quality.
    6. Once the metal is primed, it is time to color spray.
    7. Top tip is, always spray several thin layers of paint rather than 2-3 thick layers of paint.
    8. Allow abundant time to dry.
    9. Spray 2 layers of clear coat on top of color with abundant time to dry in between.
    10. Finally, spray it down with hardner for a final finish.


    The entire process should take 2-3days time with lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of patience.
    All the best. would like to take a peek at your metal .
    My DIY(s) - Sprocket bearing change | Paint job | Custom speedo dial

    Getting angry at somebody is the same as getting angry with a bike that just won't go. You should stop and start thinking.
    A good mechanic will let you watch even without charging you for it. | Riding faster than everyone else only guarantees youll ride alone.

    It is funny to know that we've been imitated and copied so well
    and surprising when we notice our mistakes are copied as well.

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    Default Re: ---DIY paint job---

    Hey
    Do you know how to remove spray paint over sprays on the bikes's tank and plastic fairing's factory clear coat? The over sprayed part has attracted dust and minute sand particles on it and got dry,leaving a rough and coarse feel when I wipe my hand on it.
    The body must not be damaged and the excess over spray must be removed till we reach the factory's clear coat shiny finish with out ripping off the clear coat damaging the paint inside.
    And restore the Black plastic parts which surround the handle bar and hold digital console,to its original black factory shine? It had over painted paint sprinkles,and the idiotic painter spread PU Thinner on it
    smudging the sprinkles around and making the part look whitish.He eve spread the thinner on the digital console and the front wind shield.Now,how do i protect them from getting faded with time as they already lost their original shine just a little bit. ?
    He also over sprayed on the suspension and the hard to reach mudguard.he then used the same thinner to wipe off the white sprinkles on the suspension,which got clear.But,he also used it to rub out the paint on the mudguard along with 3M soft rubbing compound.The paint sprinkles on the mudguard din not go completely,but left that portion looking dull dark along with some weird tiny bubbles over it.

    He did the same for the fairing and a portion of the tank,leaving bubbles over it.


    If you know any safe and effective techniques to get the originality back,please revert as soon as possible.
    Thank you.

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    Rusted plasmabhai's Avatar
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    Default Re: ---DIY paint job---

    Painted a couple of panels from my bike, thought I will share the process and pics. Posting here instead of creating the new thread because its essentially the same thing.

    So here goes:

    Normal wear and tear, weather, mad traffic, carrying a pillion over 15000 kms and finally a crash had left my silencer heat shields totally scratched and dented. Decided to get them painted, unfortunately the professionals were asking too much money and the road side guy was ready to paint for Rs.200/- but at the cost of bad finish.

    So I decided to go the DIY route, watched a lot of youtube videos, hit up some international forums and then went to Triveni Road Bglr to stock up on the requirements.

    Here is what you need for the job:



    Sandpaper:
    120 Grit : Rs8
    1000 Grit: Rs12
    1500 Grit: Rs20
    2000 Grit: Rs25

    Masking Tape: Rs 8 - to 15 depending on thickness

    Rubbing Compound : Rs20 sachet

    Spray Paint: Rs200/-

    I decided to go for the Matte Black look cause I wasn't too big a fan of the silver gray look. Went for a matte finish because it does not reflect thus hiding dents and scratches effectively.

    Step 1:

    Wash your panels nicely with concentrated dish washing fluid (or other detergent) to remove grime and oil. Give it 2-3 washes with the detergent so as to remove oils cause oil and paint don't stick! (pun intended :P)

    If your panels are dented then this is the time to hammer them flat.

    Step 2:

    Wet Sand your panels. One of my panels was scratched horrendously and had rusted in the rain. So I wet sanded the rusted area with 120 grit sand paper. This rough sand paper eats up rust, paint and metal like no tomorrow. Soon I had sanded right down to the metal. If you do this then you should use a primer and then paint. I did not and so am not sure what will happen, but I will manage that when the time comes!

    Then because 120 grit left so many scratches, I used the 1000 grit paper to smooth the surface to a uniform finish. I took my time with it, a full 35 minutes before I was satisfied with the results. Final surface had lost its sheen, and the surface was smooth to the touch. Perfect!

    Step 3:

    Again wash the panels with detergent and get them clean. Dry using a clean lint free cloth or air dry, whatever, everything works.

    Step 4:

    Mask off the area you do not want to paint on. How to do that? No clear instruction, use your head, be creative and be thorough. Make sure your edges are CLEAN. No folding allowed on the edge, it should be FLAT and glued to the surface 100% or else paint will leak and you will get a blot there! Press the edges properly 2-3 times. And use good quality masking tape.



    I chose the above pattern because I wanted to paint over as many scratches as possible but still not the whole panel cause the upper part of panel was in quite decent shape. Also the front part has an attached rubber grommet over which I did not want to paint.

    You can see the upper left side is all scratched up with use and carrying pillion. The lower region is scratched up because of the crash. This is what that looked like:



    You will notice that I have already made a previous pitiable attempt to paint over the scratch using paint brush and black touch up paint. Did it do the job, yes, did it look good, hell no!

    Step 5:

    Time to paint, buckle up!

    Spread newspaper to save your floor from over spray. Keep you panel above the ground, you can either hang it or keep it on a small box so that it lies above the ground. Like I did. Here's what that looks like:



    This is panel 1, rubber grommets masked. Full matte black, coat number 4, I have ruined this The second one came out better).

    Tips for spraying from my experience:


    • Practice your spraying on a news paper to see how far you have to hold the can to get uniform paint. This will depend on can and paint. For me it was almost 15 inches for a good finish, directions on can said 5 inches which was bullshit.
    • The farther your can is from the surface, the better finish you will get but you will waste more paint in over spray. And your job will be messier at the cost of a better finish of the panel. So cover the floor with lots of news paper before spraying.
    • If you hold the can too close to the surface you end up with blotches of paint and in worst case your paint runs, ruining everything. DO NOT make this mistake.
    • Sometimes a big drop will come out of the spray can and land on your panel. This ruins the finish, holding the can farther from the panel will prevent this from happening. I learnt this the hard way Happened to me on coat number 3 of first panel. Tried to save it by spraying more paint on it and ended up making things worse.
    • Shake your rattle can for a good 5 minutes before spraying. Failing this will give bad finish as the spray won't be uniform.
    • If your can is cold the paint inside will be thick and again you will not get a good spray. So in case of cold, immerse your can in LUKE WARM water and bring it up to temperature. The can should ideally not feel cold in your hands, it should be SAME temperature as your hands. Now use your god damn common sense for this step, the can is under pressure, if you heat it, it will EXPLODE so DO NOT put it in BOILING hot water for gods sake. Luke warm water is all you need. Please be careful here.
    • Watch 3-4 youtube videos to actually see how to move your hand while spraying.
    • Make sure you spray at least 4 coats of colour.
    • The paint aerosol is nasty and generally irritates the lungs, careful. Spray in well lit and well ventilated area with as little dust and blowing wind as possible.


    How to paint, rather how I painted:


    • First coat is your base coat. Keep can away from the panel, spray a thing coat. You should get 60-70% coverage and still be able to see the old paint under the new paint. Wait for this to dry. Read instruction on can, mine said wait 5 minutes for drying, but I waited 7 minutes. This thin coat lays the foundation over which your other coats will stick.
    • Second coat , again same thing keep can away from panel, but spray for longer duration. You should get a 100% coverage this time but still your coat should be as thin as possible. Whole panel should have new paint. Keep your can moving at all times. Wait for it to dry. Might take a couple of minutes longer. It should look dry before next coat. DO NOT TOUCH PLEASE. I did, left fingerprint :|
    • Third coat, now you are building up the paint thickness, for durability. Should go identical as 2nd coat.
    • Fourth coat, this is your finish coat. Your focus is a uniform finish on this one, same sheen all over. Make this one count!


    The painting process will take about an hour. Play Angry Birds between coats to pass time or call up your mom, then dad in the next coat then bro/sis in next coat. Don't call GF.

    Step 6:

    Drying. Let it dry for half an hour in the open. Then move it inside into shade. Let it dry at least for 5 hours before next step. This depends on type of paint as well. Gloss paints take 24 hours, mine took 5 hours YMMV.

    Step 7:

    Time to admire your work!!!!

    How did it come out? Disgusting right? Feels like shit? Correct!

    That is just how spray painting works. Since the paint particles fall on the surface they take an extremely granular texture, feel like a damn sand paper. But that's how it is supposed to work. That is why it is important to prep your surface so that the paint sticks (sand with 1000 grit), that's why it is important to give more thin coats (2,3&4) rather than give ONE dense coat (the paint won't stick and will peel off).

    But fear not because next step is awesome.

    Step 8:

    This is your finishing step, Wet Sanding with 2000 grit sand paper. Take your panel to the wash basin, let a thin stream of water run, put you panel under it, and start wet sanding. Now, go easy, you are loosing paint as you scrub, be gentle, let the grit of the paper do the work. Small circles all over the surface.

    This is the reason why we painted 4 coats, because we will be scrubbing a full coat off in this step.

    After every 2-3 minutes, run your hand and feel the surface, like it? Getting better now, wet sand untill the surface is perfectly smooth to your touch.

    Step 9:

    Wipe dry and be happy..! Because now truly things would be AWESOME.

    Because I had some part which was original paint, I decided to remove scratches using polishing compound. In case you are doing a gloss paint, then spray clear coat over it, sand it with 2000, 2500, 3000 and finally rubbing compound to get a factory finish (might take a whole day of wet sanding to get factory finish, but you will get there).

    After I finished my process (which really does not take a lot of time), this is what i ended up with:

    Panel 1:



    (Notice the black blot on extreme right where I did not stick masking tape properly over rubber grommet, good thing this part get hidden under panel 2)

    Panel 2:

    Over exposed so you can see matte black finish



    Properly exposed so you can see what it actually looks like:




    To Conclude:

    I am extremely happy with what I ended up with, panel 2 especially is looking kick ass. Half matte black and half part gloss, looks damn subtle. The finish on the second panel is absolutely awesome, partly because by then I had already made the mistakes before so knew what not to do and also better sanding.
    Don't wanna boast or anything but everyone who sees the second panel ends up asking which shop I got it done from makes me happy!

    If any one want's any clarifications then feel free to pm or comment or whatever! Happy Rattle Can Painting..!!

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