Good RR Unit for Pulsar 150

Thanks Abhi for the prompt reply, I just gathererd the components for the RR circuit assy. Before that pls tell me why your circuit is to be connected to the ignition switch if its connected to batt +? Dont know much about the theory. whats the function of this connection? Pls enlighten me in this?

I have seen one Skoda Laura projector lens assy. But the guy is asking 3.5K for the whole assy as its having a h1 pls projector HID ballast and everything fitted almost fully. I dont want to pay for a assy for 3.5K and I was bit unlucky cause one more lens was there without the assy but sold half an hour before I stepped in and that too a P Guy. So all Pulsarians are after the projectors. I think that was worth for cause its HID ready with all you need I hope (but not sure) the lense is super wide and the Skoda quality, ballast is of Osram and hopefully bulb also. But its not H4 I think as its having a H1 bulb on the side dom. So there are sources Abhi, but dont hurry you can find it one fine morning.

Pls clarify my query ASAP if you can.

Thanks

The ignition switch disconnects the battery from the RR unit when the engine is off. If the switch is not used and a direct connection is made (as is the case normally), the battery may discharge slowly through the RR unit. So, we will need to charge the battery periodically (around 15 days) if the bike is not in use. Hence it is said that we should remove the battery wires if bike is kept idle for more than a week. But in my case, no such discharges will occur. The battery stays charged for longer when not in use.

Good RR Unit for Pulsar 150

Thanks Abhi for the answer and my doubt is very much cleared and I should appreciate you for such a wonderful mod in the RR as I think its very wise idea that should be taken up by our OEMs to take care of the discharge issue. Whats your background? Electronics? Am just a DIY hobbyist just a Commerce graduate but I like these kind of mods a lot.

One more tip for the pin outs for the Quad. I've taken this way, keep the heatsink side facing, from left b,c,e.

And for the SCR, facing the label side from left Gnd, Out,In Pls correct me if am wrong.

Got any ideas about the projectors ?

Yeah, I am an electronics grad. For the pinouts, search the net for datasheets. Eg "TIP42 datasheet". Its all given there. Projectors, well I am looking to get one for cheap!

Good RR Unit for Pulsar 150

Thanks Abhi shall search and get back to you once the circuit is complete.
Bye then

@abhijeet080808
Can you study the UG3's electricals and build me a custom rectifier? I will send you a spare stator that i have. can you re wind that too and let me know of the costs.

My problem is i can build a ckt but i am not sure of the reliability.

Dude, I don't have that much free time nowadays. Also, my design is experimental. Have tested it only for a month. Why don't you rewind at some reputed motor/generator/transformer workshop and get yourself a Zma/P220 RR unit off the self. Cost will be almost the same with what it would cost including courier charges etc.

And what about your BCU? How do you plan to solve the problem?

Hi Abhi, assembled yor RR and tested to a 12V transformer its working with that. But when I connected to the coil, engine is struggling with the load as if it can not handle the load anymore. I have disconnected the stock RR and tried, same effect? What do you think? Should I go for the RR of higher ratings? Is it going to support? How come the coil is supporting with the stock RR without any load? Remember that I havent connected the DC out to battery the leads are open. Anything has to be modified with the design? Tell me how you've connected to check? I have seen your mod converting DC but thats not possible atleast in my bike as whenever I connect to a rectifier the same thing happend - load to the engine. Any idea?

One more thing I found is the RR unit is functioning evenif the power for the Regulator circuit is not connected, like you mentioned the lead has to be connected the ign switch wire.

I have splitted the Yellow and Yellow red wires from the coil as its the light coil and 2 blue wires coming from the coil is for battery charging and the other two wires are red for the pulse coil for the CDI and the last one black is earth to my belief. Am I right? Anyone out there who have tried this?

I havent visited where I have rewinded the coils, guy is not ready to reveal anything and asking me to come over there to see that. I didnt get much time for this may be next week or so.

Load to engine? What are the effects? Idle is difficult? Low power? Low top speed? What happens?

The RR Unit is used with a custom stator coil. I have only on electrical coil and one ignition coil in my bike. The RR Unit regulates this electrical coil.

The lead has to be connected to ign switch else even if it is functioning, no voltage regulation will be performed. Voltage will not be kept constant at 14V.

Firstly, what are you doing? Using the stock RR unit for battery, and my RR unit for h/l together?

First make clear what you are doing and want to do. Then I can guide you properly.

Good RR Unit for Pulsar 150

Thanks Abhi,

When I connect the RR unit to the light coils, engine rpm reduces almost 50%, if we connect the stock RR also there is a load which is noticable but this one is really something cant proceed with. Before connecting the RR unit I have increased the idle speed to 3k and tested it came down to 1k! not a negligible power loss. So stopped and connect the Stock RR tested that also taking its load but the loss in nearly 1k! So I disconnect the wires and am back to Stock RR. I think I should study the coil winding once again and get to this, its better to get the help from the rewinding person rather digging up myself.

My stator coil is as same as the stock coil ie; light, battery and the ignition coil. The mechanic didnt changed anythig except the guage of the light coils.

My intension is to boost the battery charging to compansate the HID requirement. Right now my light coils are idle as the HID works only on DC, and my battery is getting fried everyday. So I want to use the idle power of the light coil for the battery charger. In your DC conversion mod also connecting the bridge rectifier to the light wire, the same thing happens; rpm reduces considerably. Before the current battery dies fully I want to correct the charging issue otherwise the next battery will also face premature death. Once you enjoy the power of HID you cant go back to halogens.

I may require the stock RR for the console lighting with the existing battery charging coil once the charging issue is solved. As you can not get way with HID alone as its not easy to get a spare for it, whereas if have a spare halogen spot lamp, then you have a backuo light. Will the two RR work simulatneously?

Ok, I got it clearly this time. The lighting coil I guess is rated at 100/90. Correct? If yes, connect a RR unit (mine/Zma/Ape) to this coil and use it to power the HID and also charge the battery. Disconnect the stock battery coil and RR unit. You do not need to add complexity by using 2 RR units. This will do what you need.

Now, this much is clear. One more thing you will need to do. The lighting coil in the stator has 2 wires. In stock config, one wire goes to RR unit and the other one is grounded. You will have to unground this wire and connect it to the custom RR unit (along with the other wire).

Now, regarding your rpm problem. The stock RR unit gives 1k loss from 3k rpm, while this custom RR unit gives a 2k loss from 3k rpm. Correct? Look, losses will occur as the coil draws power from the engine. This is normal. But in my case, the losses were same as stock. You may want to check all connections properly.

Also, who made the circuit? You did it yourself? Make sure proper components were used!

Good RR Unit for Pulsar 150

Thanks Abhi, Yes you are right its rated to 100/90W. Today I made a visit to the tech's shop to alter it. But the guy is very reserved type of telling anything what hes going to do with. He advises me to leave the bike with him for some time as and when he is free, he will look into it and try to do soemthing. For him also its a new mod so may take some time to get it done. But I have to come back as lot of work to be completed so I told him we'll make it someother day.

Firstly I have to study the wiring in the coil then only I can isolate the earth wire. But I hate the greasy job of unscewing the stator coil cover and putting back to it. But I wanted it to be done in front of me cause most of these mechanics are careless enough to forget to change the packings on the cover.

DO you think if I leave the stock battery coil open will free up some load from the engine?. Which coil you are using Avenger? or rewounded? Is it capable of handling a power of 100/90? If not thats the reason its not drawing much power from the engine. My existing setup will light up a 100/90 like a plasma tube and thats why I changed my stock reflectors trice after that. But the current load takes from the engine is negligible for me as am not speed racer and always keeps a limit within 60-70 and to a max of 80kph. My need a good lighting as I have to ride an hour in the night in the highways almost. I was been happier than a pig in a puddle till I saw an HID. That changed the whole thing.

I only assembled it but it took me more than an hour to get it done as I was out of the soldering practice and pin outs of the components. It cost only Rs. 75 including a plain PCB and the heatsinks for the SCRs and the transistor, cheaper than what u said but procuring the components, it was 2 hours affair to get all as not every shop was not having the TIP42C's. I didnt even checked the output of your RR from my bike because of the rpm fall. Once I correct the wiring from the stator I will try to connect it and let you know whether its regulating or not.

Let me ask you onething, if you have changed the wiring to DC then why did you gone back to AC lighting with the stock RR? Any probs?

Mine is a rewounded 100/90 coil used with the custom RR unit. It is all DC. My h/l is 100/90 and runs on DC. Earlier, I was using a 60/55 on the same set up. I do not use the stock RR unit or stator.

Good RR Unit for Pulsar 150

Hi Abhi, thanks for the reply, yes I found it. I studied the stock coil which is lying with me idle. what you said was correct. Light coil one end was directly to stator body, thats act as the earth. I have to take it to the workshop to open the stator cover.

I tried to connect your RR unit to the coil by ur DC mod. after disconnecting the stock RR. Voltage is stable 13.1 or so. Is it the correct or 14.4? And I took the current passing out, surprisingly its less than the stock RR. New circuit delivers only 1.A whereas the stock RR gives 3.2 avg on 3K rpm. If you are getting around 5A, only after the coil ground isolation only I can check it. I hope I can solve this cause you guys have already done it. Anyway thanks for the support shall get back to you as soon as I have done the wirings.

Onemore thing, how to fix a heatsink to the diodes? Its heating like a hot exhaust pipe. I think I can go for a 35A Bridge rectifier that has a hole in the centre to bolt on to the chasiss.

A bridge rectifier like that would be the best. Bolt in on to a large heatsink! And hey, can you give me the parts number of that bridge rectifier! A photo would be good too. Here, I did not find any and had to use rectifiers from an Indica's Alternator!

For proper current, you will have to remove the ground! I am using a 100/90 bulb now without any probs.