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Thread: Yamaha Gladiator RS 2008 not performing on top end

  1. #11
    Rusted prajnyan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbsrailfan View Post
    Noob question, what's AFR and how do I check it? Will post a pic of the spark plugs tomorrow morning. Too dark now.

    BTW i checked the max RPMs of the bike in 3rd & 4th. It managed 7500 RPM in 3rd somehow, but didnt cross 7000 even in 4th.

    Are you sure nothing's wrong with the exhause pipe that's causing the backfire? I read here that people are installing 'free flow exhausts' to boost the performance. Any chances that my exhaust is clogged with soot & tht's causing a performance degrade?
    AFR means Air Fuel Ratio. Its the same tuning screw that you said you have set at 4 turns anti clockwise. I doubt that the cleaning job was perfect, go to Yamaha Service Center and get that properly done, also tuning adjusted to normal ride conditions. (I think it has to be between 3.5 turns to 4.5 turns depending on your bike, every bike has its own turn ratio). Soot wont cause that phat sound, that misfire can be caused due to poor spark, check the spark plug. Unless your piston rings have worn out and engine is drinking oil and you can see black oozy liquid out of the silencer you dont have to open to clean the silencer. How many km back had you changed it? See what colour the spark plug tip looks. If its whitish, then yor are running too lean, and if its soot black then you have set the AFR to rich.
    Last edited by prajnyan; 07-10-2012 at 05:51 AM.
    There are no short-cuts to any place worth going. So ride safe when you are treading uncharted roads.

  2. #12
    Rusted Honda_CBF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbsrailfan View Post
    Noob question, what's AFR and how do I check it? Will post a pic of the spark plugs tomorrow morning. Too dark now.

    BTW i checked the max RPMs of the bike in 3rd & 4th. It managed 7500 RPM in 3rd somehow, but didnt cross 7000 even in 4th.

    Are you sure nothing's wrong with the exhause pipe that's causing the backfire? I read here that people are installing 'free flow exhausts' to boost the performance. Any chances that my exhaust is clogged with soot & tht's causing a performance degrade?
    Air Fuel Ratio (AFR).
    Exhaust pipes of 4 strokes dont need cleaning, unless bike is smoking. So if you cant see any damages (rust holes etc) then there's aint any.
    I suggest you perform following in the same order:
    -change airfilter
    -look for leakage on intake manifold
    -post a pic of spark plugs tip (we will figure out AFR)
    -get mechanic's/svc's opinions and continue troubleshooting if problem not solved.

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    Quote Originally Posted by prajnyan View Post
    I doubt that the cleaning job was perfect, go to Yamaha Service Center and get that properly done, also tuning adjusted to normal ride conditions.

    Quote Originally Posted by Honda_CBF View Post
    Air Fuel Ratio (AFR).
    Exhaust pipes of 4 strokes dont need cleaning, unless bike is smoking. So if you cant see any damages (rust holes etc) then there's aint any.
    I suggest you perform following in the same order:
    -change airfilter
    -look for leakage on intake manifold
    -post a pic of spark plugs tip (we will figure out AFR)
    -get mechanic's/svc's opinions and continue troubleshooting if problem not solved.
    Thanks for the information guys. So just to sum up,

    • I need to replace my air filter.
    • I need to re-check my AFR (by checking the spark plugs)
    • I don't need to clean my exhausts,


    Will do that and update here. Can I get a foam type filter for the Gladi - which can be cleaned and maintained easily? What are the tradeoffs/compromises if I put a foam-type filter??

    I am still clueless about that squeaking noise at low RPMs. Now a days it's existing all the way till 3000RPM

    @Honda_CBF : Yesterday evening, I pushed my bike to 7000+ RPM to testing purposes, as I told you.

    Since then, my engine has become very noisy, almost like a 1st generation Fiero or a CBZ. It feels massively powerful as well, but the 'beats' seem just too loud and pronounced. Please note that I haven;t made any adjustments whatsoever. Though the power feels nice, I am scared if something is terribly wrong which may affect the engine life.

    I mean, Yamaha's are not supposed to be noisy! Even the FZ' series and the R1 are a lot quieter than a Pulsar. The only noisy Yamaha's are the RXs

  4. #14
    Rusted Honda_CBF's Avatar
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    Can you elaborate on the squeaky noise? Leaky Intake manifold can do that, but should be there at all rpms & not only till 3k rpm.
    Yes you can get a foam filter. Trade off is more time needed for maintainence of it say washing, drying, oil'in and it can't be cleaned with blowing air through it. Pros of it are: its 'free-er' flowing element than paper elements. Cheaper to buy & needs less changes than paper type.
    Old glady had a foam filter you can use it but you may need to change the air box with of older glady.
    A jugaad for foam type filter with your current air box is to cut a foam piece to fit snugly in place of paper type filter.
    Calling for experts plz diagnose this squeaky & top speed issue..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Honda_CBF View Post
    Can you elaborate on the squeaky noise? Leaky Intake manifold can do that, but should be there at all rpms & not only till 3k rpm.
    Yes you can get a foam filter. Trade off is more time needed for maintainence of it say washing, drying, oil'in and it can't be cleaned with blowing air through it. Pros of it are: its 'free-er' flowing element than paper elements. Cheaper to buy & needs less changes than paper type.
    Old glady had a foam filter you can use it but you may need to change the air box with of older glady.
    A jugaad for foam type filter with your current air box is to cut a foam piece to fit snugly in place of paper type filter.
    Calling for experts plz diagnose this squeaky & top speed issue..

    Ok, here's a recording. You can easily make out the squeaking noise after about 7-10 secs, and it continues till the end of the recording.

    Download/Access here: https://www.box.com/s/4b561fe504ee806022b7

    Also added the link to this file on the first post so that senior members may diagnose easily.

    Thanks for the info about foam filters, think I will go for one. Atleast I can clean it as and when needed, without much pain.

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    Rusted muztariq's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbsrailfan View Post
    Ok, here's a recording. You can easily make out the squeaking noise after about 7-10 secs, and it continues till the end of the recording.

    Download/Access here: https://www.box.com/s/4b561fe504ee806022b7

    Also added the link to this file on the first post so that senior members may diagnose easily.

    Thanks for the info about foam filters, think I will go for one. Atleast I can clean it as and when needed, without much pain.
    two problems which i can make out..
    1. Clutch slipping
    2. Air filter choked ( why you wetted it! :-) )

    reasons for clutch slipping - worn out clutch plates(you never changed it!) or use of high friction modified engine oil (read it energy conserving car engine oil).. You cant make out clutch slippage just like that.. Always measure engine rpm at a particular speed when the bike is new and then measure out engine rpms at that speed after oil changes etc. If the bike is revving more to attain the same speed, either engine oil is at fault or the clutch is dieing out or the idle rpms have increased.. Any sudden change in that correlation will tell you whether someone played with your bike or if it happened just after servicing then svc had done something wrong with your machine.

    clutch slippage leads to lower top end and mileage reduction.. Which is quite prominent in your case.
    Last edited by muztariq; 07-10-2012 at 10:25 PM.

  7. #17
    Rusted Honda_CBF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbsrailfan View Post
    were you talking about the metallic 'tic tic tic' noise?? Sounds like loose tappets/valves to me..
    Didn't heard any squeaky noise.
    Btw, have you changed the air filter and checked AFR? Need an update report on that.
    @muztariq,
    I dont think its clutch slipping reason being he's stuck at ~7k rpm earlier he used to reach 8k rpm (and may be more)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Honda_CBF View Post
    were you talking about the metallic 'tic tic tic' noise?? Sounds like loose tappets/valves to me..
    Didn't heard any squeaky noise.
    Btw, have you changed the air filter and checked AFR? Need an update report on that.
    @muztariq,
    I dont think its clutch slipping reason being he's stuck at ~7k rpm earlier he used to reach 8k rpm (and may be more)
    @Ateesh: Yes, you can say it's that high-pitched 'tic tic' which starts at around 00:18 secs and lasts till the end of the recording. That's a valve problem? Can u listen to it again and confirm?

    I checked the spark plug, it was whitish-grey - so I am on the leaner side. Then what's with the f**ked up mileage? Inspite of AFR being set lean, my mileage is hardly 38 (which is pathetic, since I have actually seen my bike givin me 55KPL), so I am running the bike in ultra-conservative mode now - (Similar to what riders do in run-ins - no revving beyond 4000 RPM, not exceeding 40-50KPH, sticking to higher gears as much as possible)

    I am yet to get the air filter replaced. Have decided to replace the paper filter with a foam-type filter from the old gladi - which I can only try and source at JC Road. Will do that on Saturday when I can get time to scourge all the shops over there.

    @Muztariq: What are the symptoms of clutch-slip? Is is possible that the Wurth engine oil to blame? It was a generic 20W40 oil but it did make my bike feel smoother compared to the Shell Advance which I was using earlier.

  9. #19
    Rusted Honda_CBF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbsrailfan View Post
    @Ateesh: Yes, you can say it's that high-pitched 'tic tic' which starts at around 00:18 secs and lasts till the end of the recording. That's a valve problem? Can u listen to it again and confirm?
    its valve adjustment problem (loose tappets), get it fixed.
    its always better to perform this job on a cold engine (because specs are available for cold engine only)

    Quote Originally Posted by bbsrailfan View Post
    I checked the spark plug, it was whitish-grey - so I am on the leaner side. Then what's with the f**ked up mileage? Inspite of AFR being set lean, my mileage is hardly 38 (which is pathetic, since I have actually seen my bike givin me 55KPL), so I am running the bike in ultra-conservative mode now - (Similar to what riders do in run-ins - no revving beyond 4000 RPM, not exceeding 40-50KPH, sticking to higher gears as much as possible)
    thats what most mechanic set it to. but with 4 turns out of AFR screw, it should be rich or atleast optimal. check for any leaks/suction on the intake manifold & air box.
    and according to your riding habit you must get 50kmpl+ (have personally achived ~60kmpl under city limits with this type of riding) but overheating engine can cause mileage to drop (of course including all other nasty things)
    Can you post a pic of spark plug electrode? would like to see it

    Quote Originally Posted by bbsrailfan View Post
    I am yet to get the air filter replaced. Have decided to replace the paper filter with a foam-type filter from the old gladi - which I can only try and source at JC Road. Will do that on Saturday when I can get time to scourge all the shops over there.
    first confirm it will fit or not on your RS or else you have to change the air box.

    Quote Originally Posted by bbsrailfan View Post
    What are the symptoms of clutch-slip? Is is possible that the Wurth engine oil to blame? It was a generic 20W40 oil but it did make my bike feel smoother compared to the Shell Advance which I was using earlier.
    huge clutch slip: when you accelerate, engine revs but there's no speed gain/acceleration.
    slight clutch slip: dropped speed in a given rpm. for e.g. bike used to do 70kmph at 6k rpm when new but now only does 65kmph (lower than 70kmph) at 6k rpm
    is Wurth engine oil for bikes?? I dont know about this oil..
    shell mineral oils are not so good. try any motul/valvoline/gulf/elf oil in 20w40 range.
    Last edited by Honda_CBF; 07-11-2012 at 04:09 PM. Reason: typo

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    Quote Originally Posted by Honda_CBF View Post
    its valve adjustment problem (loose tappets), get it fixed.
    its always better to perform this job on a cold engine (because specs are available for cold engine only)



    thats what most mechanic set it to. but with 4 turns out of AFR screw, it should be rich or atleast optimal. check for any leaks/suction on the intake manifold & air box.
    Thanks, will get it fixed with a different mech. My regular mech is too ignorant of this issue and keeps telling me that it's nothing serious. Does it involve in-depth/time consuming repairs? In that case, i will wait for the weekend.

    I am still confused to where exactly the 'manifold' is on a single-cylinder bike? Tried searching up on google but all I got were images of manifolds of multi-cylinder bike & car engines!

    Quote Originally Posted by Honda_CBF View Post
    and according to your riding habit you must get 50kmpl+ (have personally achived ~60kmpl under city limits with this type of riding) but overheating engine can cause mileage to drop (of course including all other nasty things)
    You're right - with a sedate, calm right wrist, I have always managed 55+ in city (max achieved was 58 KPL) Only now I am losing out on mileage so badly.


    Quote Originally Posted by Honda_CBF View Post
    Can you post a pic of spark plug electrode? would like to see it


    first confirm it will fit or not on your RS or else you have to change the air box.
    Took a pic yday but it was all too overexposed...yday I had cleaned the electrode thoroughly. Anyway let me reach home, will unplug and post a pic.
    No worries with the airbox - will change the airbox if required - fed up of paper air filters! They get clogged so fast, we can't clean them at home and then, they're ridiculously expensive to maintain - especially when a paper air filter for the Gladi costs 240-270 bucks


    Quote Originally Posted by Honda_CBF View Post
    huge clutch slip: when you accelerate, engine revs but there's no speed gain/acceleration.
    slight clutch slip: dropped speed in a given rpm. for e.g. bike used to do 70kmph at 6k rpm when new but now only does 65kmph (lower than 70kmph) at 6k rpm
    is Wurth engine oil for bikes?? I dont know about this oil..
    shell mineral oils are not so good. try any motul/valvoline/gulf/elf oil in 20w40 range.
    Thanks again. Even I wasn't too sure about Wurth. Will switch to Motul in a couple of weeks. Not getting Gulf anywhere in Bangalore

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