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Thread: Query regarding lights

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    Default Query regarding lights

    I'm looking to add a few lights to my Gixxer SF. So I need a few suggestions as to which to get. My requirements are:

    1. LED headlight
    Which one is better? There are many in the market like M02G, M02K and so on and on.

    2.Pilot light and number plate light
    Well, I need a white LED to match the LED of the headlight. So the stock yellow one will look weird. Also a bright white LED for the number plate would be a better option I feel.

    3. Aux Lights
    I saw a few Cree U7 lights with high and low beam. Should I get that? Or should I get a pair of 6x2 LED lights or something else? I would like to have a broader light view closeby.

    4. Bar end lights with DRL and indicators.

    5. A pair of loud horns under 1k. It should be louder than the stock ones, and I'm also not a fan of the RE horns.

    So yeah, if I add these lights, will it affect my battery in any way?

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    Default Re: Query regarding lights

    Thread approved.

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    Default Re: Query regarding lights

    Anyone? Please help.

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    Default Re: Query regarding lights

    3. I can vouch for Gold Runway aux lights, if you can spare upto 12k. gives the Bajas and Cyclops a run for their money.

    5. Go for Roots (if you want a trumpet) or Minda. VFM products.

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    Default Re: Query regarding lights

    Quote Originally Posted by tremonade View Post
    I'm looking to add a few lights to my Gixxer SF. So I need a few suggestions as to which to get. My requirements are:

    1. LED headlight
    Which one is better? There are many in the market like M02G, M02K and so on and on.

    2.Pilot light and number plate light
    Well, I need a white LED to match the LED of the headlight. So the stock yellow one will look weird. Also a bright white LED for the number plate would be a better option I feel.

    3. Aux Lights
    I saw a few Cree U7 lights with high and low beam. Should I get that? Or should I get a pair of 6x2 LED lights or something else? I would like to have a broader light view closeby.

    4. Bar end lights with DRL and indicators.

    5. A pair of loud horns under 1k. It should be louder than the stock ones, and I'm also not a fan of the RE horns.

    So yeah, if I add these lights, will it affect my battery in any way?
    1) Most LED lights have similar performance in my opinion. Buy from a reputed company. Try to check that the light type is HS1 and not H4. They have similar mounting and wiring, but the location of the actual light source is slightly different. This means that the headlight reflector (Designed for HS1) will not spread the light as well H4. It is manageable, but not optimal - especially the high beam. Also, check the type of coupler that comes with the LED bulb to see if it fits your coupler readily or if some modification is required. Sometimes it is these small things that make a bigger difference.

    2) You can also get pilot lights in LED, sometimes in different colours, with blue being the most common. For this, it is better if you know come shop where you can check the fit and colour. Intensity/Quality is not critical as these are more accent lighting than road illumination. For Number plate light, some bulbs are similar to the position light bulbs (eg. Hero bikes use the same bulb for position lamps and number plate lamps), in which case you can use the same one. If not, you get LED strips (waterproof). They either come in modules of 3 lights (Like this) or in a continuous roll that can be cut every 3 lights (Like this). You will have to wire them yourself, and they are adhesive backed, so you can often stick them onto the bottom of the tail light or any suitable place.

    3) CREE are very good for aux lights, better than the 6x2 clusters. Look for beam patterns of around 20°. Also, in general, look for bulbs with lenses as they concentrate the light better and are brighter (as a general rule, glass lenses have better clarity and life. Plastic ones are cheaper, and the material degrades soon, making the lens cloudy). The reflector type have wide spreads and the illumination at any one location is less.

    4) Bar end lights all look and work the same as far as I am bothered. Just be aware that you have to make a decent sized hole in your handlebar for the wiring to come through. Also, check that your bike does not have wrap around hand guards (that bolt onto the end of the handlebar) or handlebar end weights, or a handlebar with some type of plug at the end. Any of these will make the installation difficult or often impossible.

    5) Horns are best bought in a store. Horns often come with different "loudnesses" and different pitches. In simple words, you can get a "peep peep" or a "paaaaaaaan" and generally everything in between. Buy the one that appeals to you.

    Coming over to the battery, or more specifically, the current draw, LEDs generally have more illumination per watt than standard bulbs. So you can get the same illumination with a 35W halogen (~3 amps at 12V) and a GOOD QUALITY 10W LED (~0.8 amps at 12V). So overall, lesser consumption puts less strain on the battery.
    But if you run headlights and aux lights all at once, the amps can add up, but most modern bikes have enough overhead current that they can handle it. Just ensure that the extra lights are OFF when the engine is idling or switched OFF. In these conditions, the current generated in the ACG is less or 0, so the battery is drained more.
    As a comparison, I had an 18W LED headlight ON the whole day when my bike was on display, and there was no drop in the intensity of the light after over 10 hours. The battery, however, was sufficiently drained that I could not self-start the bike. No problems. 1 kick and the bike was back to life, 20km ride home and the battery was back to full charge.
    tremonade likes this.
    Rides:
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    Monsoon Ride 2015: Gurgaon - Lansdowne
    Diwali Ride 2015: Gurgaon - Mana/Badrinath

    Races:
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    Maruti Suzuki Dakshin Dare 2016

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    Default Re: Query regarding lights

    Quote Originally Posted by vikhattangady View Post

    3) CREE are very good for aux lights, better than the 6x2 clusters. Look for beam patterns of around 20°. Also, in general, look for bulbs with lenses as they concentrate the light better and are brighter (as a general rule, glass lenses have better clarity and life. Plastic ones are cheaper, and the material degrades soon, making the lens cloudy). The reflector type have wide spreads and the illumination at any one location is less.
    Thanks for the detailed reply. I didn't quite get what you meant regarding the 20 degrees thing. Can you maybe link me to a product online?

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    Rookie vikhattangady's Avatar
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    Default Re: Query regarding lights

    Quote Originally Posted by tremonade View Post
    Thanks for the detailed reply. I didn't quite get what you meant regarding the 20 degrees thing. Can you maybe link me to a product online?
    Higher-end companies mention the beam pattern in an angle (describing how wide the spread is when seen in the top view).
    High beams are normally 10°, also called Spot.
    Normal driving beams are 20°.
    Flood lights/Wash are 60°.

    The part that they don't mention is that you get a similar pattern in the side view (because they don't know which orientation the light will be mounted)
    So a 60° Flood light (that looks impressive when pointed at a wall) only has about half of that pointed at the road, and the other half going upwards. That is a mistake I have realised on my bike. (there's a photo of my bike linked in my signature)

    For lower end companies, stick to Spot lights, and if they specify angles, 20° is best.
    Cant find a good photo when I need it, but here are a few for idea: 1, 2, 3
    Rides:
    Monsoon Ride 2014: Bangalore - Coorg
    Monsoon Ride 2015: Gurgaon - Lansdowne
    Diwali Ride 2015: Gurgaon - Mana/Badrinath

    Races:
    Maruti Suzuki Desert Storm 2016
    Maruti Suzuki Dakshin Dare 2016

    Bikes:
    Hero Impulse 2014 - Present

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    Default Re: Query regarding lights

    Quote Originally Posted by vikhattangady View Post
    Higher-end companies mention the beam pattern in an angle (describing how wide the spread is when seen in the top view).
    High beams are normally 10°, also called Spot.
    Normal driving beams are 20°.
    Flood lights/Wash are 60°.

    The part that they don't mention is that you get a similar pattern in the side view (because they don't know which orientation the light will be mounted)
    So a 60° Flood light (that looks impressive when pointed at a wall) only has about half of that pointed at the road, and the other half going upwards. That is a mistake I have realised on my bike. (there's a photo of my bike linked in my signature)

    For lower end companies, stick to Spot lights, and if they specify angles, 20° is best.
    Cant find a good photo when I need it, but here are a few for idea: 1, 2, 3
    So which light would you suggest? Maybe you might have a few options. I checked a few Cree LED lights (U7 light), but they didn't mention any angle.

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    Rookie vikhattangady's Avatar
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    Default Re: Query regarding lights

    Quote Originally Posted by tremonade View Post
    So which light would you suggest? Maybe you might have a few options. I checked a few Cree LED lights (U7 light), but they didn't mention any angle.
    CREE U7 is a good buy. From what I know, it comes with a glass lens, so it is good quality and the beam pattern should be good.

    Also touching on the topic of your main headlight, you could also consider Xenon lamps. They are something I have used in the past. The only major advantages are they put out more light for the same wattage as halogens, and that the output is quite high even with cheaper sets (although life may suffer), unlike LED where cheaper ones may not be bright enough.
    Not all rosy as it sounds though. 3 major disadvantages:
    1) They have 10~15 seconds start-up time, which is fine, as they are usually up to full brightness by the time you are out of a parking lot and onto the road. But with headlight off, if you press the pass switch, the light will not flash due to the start-up time.
    2) It has a single light source that acts as a high beam and low beam (unlike halogen with 2 filaments or LED with 2/multiple LED chips). This means you cannot use the low beam and pass beam together. You can use one or the other, so there's a bit of DIY involved to get a relay installed.
    3) They need a constant current input since they work on an electric arc (like a welding arc). If your headlight is connected directly to the ACG output, when the RPMs drop, the current drops. In this case, a normal light will dim or flicker. The xenon will keep going out and restriking the arc (with each restrike reducing the life). So you will have t make a small modification to the wiring harness so that the light is powered directly from the battery.

    If these points do not deter you, Xenon headlight with 2 CREE U7 aux lamps are the way to go.

    If you need instructions with the DIY, I have some posts here and here where I go into way more information than necessary.
    tremonade likes this.
    Rides:
    Monsoon Ride 2014: Bangalore - Coorg
    Monsoon Ride 2015: Gurgaon - Lansdowne
    Diwali Ride 2015: Gurgaon - Mana/Badrinath

    Races:
    Maruti Suzuki Desert Storm 2016
    Maruti Suzuki Dakshin Dare 2016

    Bikes:
    Hero Impulse 2014 - Present

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    Default Re: Query regarding lights

    So I went ahead and bought the RTD M02K LED headlight. And it sucks.

    Even on low beam, the light isn't spreading on the ground. It's pointing a bit upward. Same with high beam. So I can't see what's on the ground beyond 10mts. The mechanic reversed the wiring, still no use.

    So now, my final option is to buy an Halogen buib with temp of 5000-6000k so that I can get a white coloured light. So which halogen should I go for now?

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