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HID causing battery drain

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  • gurudeep
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    Originally posted by Srinivas sr143sr View Post
    Read the answers in bold bro
    hi....

    guess what.. i changed my bike set up to stock..

    now my headlights ,parking lights ,tail lamp and number plate lamp runs on ac current... i.e it lights up when i start the engine.... half of my tension is over ..thanks to u .

    he has installed 40/45 watts osram halogen headlight.

    now i guess i have a little time to change my battery.

    i used the hid with stock regulator for more than a week and one day while i was riding in the night ..the light just disappeared i tried to switch it on again and again no use ...that time i decided its time to got to stock mode.

    Headlights coil has dedicated poles and battery cahrging has dedicated poles in your bikes stator. He should combine them in stator itself and use a better Regulator if he wants to do that. But he did Parallel charging which is not a correct way. In worst case your bike may catch fire. Pavanchirmade xbhp member bike caught fire by parallel charging.

    hmmm ok ok now i get it ...there is difference in coil winding also in the stator which produces diffrent current for batter and headlights. ...ya i remember i had read that post...i remember he also stated that his regulator had over heating issue also...

    How can you or me decide how a battery should work..?? we cant decide right..?? there's some regulations for which a battery should be charged or used. Anyways im here to clear your doubt. No offense.

    Battery is designed to take some beating but not Parallel charging. CHARGING SHOULD BE DONE BY ONLY ONE CHARGER.


    no no nothing like that ...it was just a doubt. i thought battery was just like a small baby which is always hungry ...and it will take power from where ever possible to recharge again irrespective of the power origin.


    Its electricty dude.. Amperes, Voltage. Its pure physics. The mechanic doesnt even know the difference between Voltage, Ampere, Watt, Resistance(ohm). He learned somewhere that it can be done. he implemeneted in your bike. Then why you are facing the trouble if he is correct..???
    If your Hid+lights consumes say around 70 watts
    the stator+regulator should pump more than 70 watts to support lights as well as charge the battery. I.e; the stator+regulator should pump atleast(example) 5.5 Amps @ 14.2 Volts say at @3.5 to 4 K RPM of bike.
    Calculation 5.5 Amps * 14.2 Volts = 78 Watts

    so your production is greater than your consumption.
    Now your battery will not drain.
    As parallel charging is done by two different regulators at different amsp and voltage settings it is highly questionable how much charge the battery is getting. Also its a blunder to charge with two regulators.
    Now you have to say does your mechanic know this calculation of electricity charging...??

    i too did not have any idea about these things.... got just pass marks in physics.. i hated that subject i did not understand one word of it ... if i had worked a little hard on it in the past i would have a good understanding about it.

    i don know how much knowledge the mechanic has...

    Your bike has 9Ah battery and i think NS and RS has 8Ah battery. So your battery is more bigger..!! Surprised...??
    i had seen it in the work shop ...that is the place where the question comes from

    newer model had small size and 8ah battery but could support both the projector lamps ...but mine had 9ah battery and could not support a single hid?

    now i know that their stator is modifie and they can support that lights.

    by the way whats is 9ah or 8ah?

    and do u know anything about the headlight used in AS or RS series...those look like projector to me. do they use halogen bulbs in those projector lights or xenon bulbs inside?
    they cant use halogen becoz it produce more heat and there is a chance of melting down...

    if the electrican had informed me all these mainly about he stator coil i would not had done the modification at all.
    hmmm ....truly said we learn by the mistakes what we do....

    after installing the hid couple of guys asked me about the hid...i told them clearly it looks nice on the bike ,,,but visibility to the rider is poor during the rainy season ..so i advised them not to move to hid ...if i knew about this battery drain and stator coil ,,,i would have added that also .

    after moving to stock ...as mentioned before he has installed a 40/45 watt bulb ..is this ok?
    and when the engine is ideling the brightness of the light decreases...what dose this mean..,is there something wrong with the stator coil ...becoz as for now my headligths are powered directly from stator coil produced current i.e is ac ... dose the dimming of light mean that the coil has become weak and not producing enough power for the lights.
    the road visibility with this bulb is also poor.. can u suggest me a good bulb in which i can have good visibility... i haev read that bulbs with 5500kelvin to 6000k bulbs
    emit white light and has good visibility...r these bulbs avilable in the market?
    i searched for these bulbs on line but all the lights r of 3500kelvin yellow light.

    and one more thing... after i purchased my bike i installed led parking lights couple of times...but when ever i installed it it would burn out after couple of days...and when i asked this with the mechanic he told me that ur parking lights run on ac current and as ac current is not steady led burs off ...he told me that led light need steady current and work only on dc current...is it true?

    and after some time i moved to hid and as hid also works on dc i told him to convert parking lights also to dc and installed led lights in it and it was working fine for 2 years.

    now when i told him to bring everything to stock mode and told him to keep parking lights in dc he said it is not possible to do so..now my parking lights have led ...it acts as same as the headlights ..it lights up when the engine starts running and led dims when in ideling that means my led is also workin on ac right?

    so will it burn off after a couple of days?

    is there any way from which i can save the led from burning off?


    one more doubt ....in the previous set up my yellow red wire which brings ac current to regulator for lighting was split it into 2 and connected it to the new regulator... what if he had connected that splited wires from yellow red wire to the two white blue wires which bought ac current to charge the battery instead of using the new regulator....in this way there was no need of parallel charging right?
    Last edited by gurudeep; 05-28-2017, 02:36 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Srinivas sr143sr
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    Originally posted by gurudeep View Post
    hi....

    no no i don trust anybody with my bike ...becoz i am not sure that they ill take care of it as i do ... i had given it to my frind fo almost 3 months when i went out of station for work...and when i came back i didnt feel as it was in good condition.

    thanks for sharing these with me....i really got to know much more than before.
    and about the switches i don know ...ill send u the snaps... he told me that he has installed ns200 switches.

    ill keep the present switches an change the lights to ac...i think that's the best..as u have mentioned in case 2


    "Halogen lamp(Philips 60/55w) work on AC directly connected to Regulator lighting AC output. So when i switch on all lights switch, Except halogen bulb all lights get on. Now when i start my bike my Halogen bulb will glow. Is this you are asking..??"

    yes this is what i was asking... but i got the answer in your message.


    my horns were working properly...without any issue...
    ur right mine is 2008 model i have big double horns in my bike.. i guess the electrician has installed a relay for that also in my bike..

    Guess is not the answer. It should be present for your current switch set.

    ill keep your advice in mind while changing the headlights..
    i wish i had a little more knowledge above these electrical i could also do the wiring myself...

    so i need not change everything to stock...
    ill change only the head lights and use the same switches.

    after reading these messages i don't know if i can trust that electrician or not...

    i knew that self start required heavy power....becoz while kick start also it requires good power.... but horns i didn't know...

    now after this much of talking i know what i should do....thanks to you man .... thanks for your time.
    ill update u soon...

    and about that test(40-50kms ride) i have not done that ...

    now from one week i am riding my bike with stock regulator...there is no such issue ...as u have said before my battery is weak... i can feel tat now...while riding during night my hid has started to flicker. i really need to do something fast.

    With your stock stator and regulator your Hid will flicker

    i have a small doubt.. before u said that my stator coil produced half current is used to charge the battery and the other half is used for headlights,now the mechanic has diverted the headlights current also to the battery.

    Headlights coil has dedicated poles and battery cahrging has dedicated poles in your bikes stator. He should combine them in stator itself and use a better Regulator if he wants to do that. But he did Parallel charging which is not a correct way. In worst case your bike may catch fire. Pavanchirmade xbhp member bike caught fire by parallel charging.

    and in the newer models all the produced current is used to charge the battery.

    All the produced current is rectified by only a single charger in latest pulsar..!!

    the mechanic has also done the same thing no he has used all the current produced to charge the battery ,then why my battery is spoiled ?
    the work of the stator is producing current it should not matter for the stator weather the produced current is going to headlight or battery.
    same way the battery should also get charged irrespective of parallel charging or single charging...it should take only the current required for charging right.

    How can you or me decide how a battery should work..?? we cant decide right..?? there's some regulations for which a battery should be charged or used. Anyways im here to clear your doubt. No offense.

    Battery is designed to take some beating but not Parallel charging. CHARGING SHOULD BE DONE BY ONLY ONE CHARGER.


    for example if i need to rotate a 1ton cylinder with one hp motor ,the 1hp motor cannot do the work so i will bring an 10 hp motor and it will work fine. same way the initial charging was not enough so he has given the parallel charging (means he added some extra power) what did go wrong?

    Its electricty dude.. Amperes, Voltage. Its pure physics. The mechanic doesnt even know the difference between Voltage, Ampere, Watt, Resistance(ohm). He learned somewhere that it can be done. he implemeneted in your bike. Then why you are facing the trouble if he is correct..???

    If your Hid+lights consumes say around 70 watts

    the stator+regulator should pump more than 70 watts to support lights as well as charge the battery. I.e; the stator+regulator should pump atleast(example) 5.5 Amps @ 14.2 Volts say at @3.5 to 4 K RPM of bike.

    Calculation 5.5 Amps * 14.2 Volts = 78 Watts


    so your production is greater than your consumption.

    Now your battery will not drain.

    As parallel charging is done by two different regulators at different amsp and voltage settings it is highly questionable how much charge the battery is getting. Also its a blunder to charge with two regulators.
    Now you have to say does your mechanic know this calculation of electricity charging...??

    what is the difference between the newer models and the old models?
    in some of the pulsar models like RS and AS he has given 2 projector and one projector headlights i guess those bike are all dc and the headlights use in them run on dc current.

    is there any difference in the battery of my model and the new model so that the new model has the capacity to store the current to power the headlights.

    Your bike has 9Ah battery and i think NS and RS has 8Ah battery. So your battery is more bigger..!! Surprised...??

    is it possible if i use the rs model battery in my bike and continue using the hid in my bike?3

    No its all about stator core(area for holder copper wire), copper winding (Guage of copper wire 9SWG, 8SWG) and Regulator.

    You have to rewind your stator and use better regulator.

    Its not about bigger or smaller battery. Bigger battery has capacity to support somewhat high power accessory.

    Ex: Car has also same 12Volt battery as like our bike battery. Our bike battery can be used in car for its horn, its indicators and other things, but it will not be able to start the car as the self needs heavy amount of power at once to crank the engine.

    Once car gets started it can run itself with even half capacity of its original battery. No problem at all.


    or is there any difference between the stator of new model and my model bike?

    Yes. newer models all cores are used to charge the battery only. But it(P150 and P180) will not be able to handle even 60watt bulb.

    But Avenger220,150,V15 are designed to handle 60watt bulbs.


    actually i had googled before installing the hid kit in my bike it clearly stated that the hid kit consumes less power that the halogen bulb..that means i should have a good life from my battery....

    As said many times, UG3 is not designed to handle even 35watt bulb/LED/HID in DC. i have tried. Battery will discharge in minutes.

    You have to look at watts and not the other things. Probably you got confused by looking at BEE energy rating star stickers on our ACs and Fridges. those are very different.

    Read the answers in bold bro

    Leave a comment:


  • gurudeep
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    Originally posted by Srinivas sr143sr View Post
    I forgot one thing

    P200NS or P135 switches are not capable of handling the stock Horns of UG2-UG3 and UG4 (initial model).

    if you observe carefully older model pulsars(UG2) and your model have bigger horns compared to latest Pulsar horns(smaller horns).

    In my observation, i tried to use my bikes(UG2) horns with P135 switches and the are unable to function properly. so i thought my previous setup(rewinded coil+APE regulator) was not supplying proper voltage or it is faulty. My mechanic Fuc*** has no knowledge about it. He is an ASSHO**

    what happened is my setup(rewinded coil+APE regulator) are giving very good voltage but because of horns i am mislead-ed and removed that setup. Actually its very good setup.

    So i came to Avenger setup now wasting money. hmm...

    If you are going to use all stock (everything) then no need of Horn relay. But if you are going to use P200NS switches. IT IS MANDATORY TO USE HORN RELAY..!!! KEEP IT IN MIND. YOU SHOULD USE IT FOR YOUR BIKES HORNS..!!

    If you donot use relay(for 200NS switches) your bikes horns will not function properly as they require heavy power and may also fool you making you to feel that battery is at fault.

    The reason is the wiring in P135, P200NS (designed to handle only one horn) switches is very thin. They try to supply power but will heat up internally as more power is transferred than required, and may also cause switch failure in future. (You have to buy whole switch assembly if at all it fails)

    But Initially they my work ok for sometime but i am sure they will not support them.

    I know this because i use horn regularly. there are many blind cuts and lanes in my city where opposite riders will not have any clue of what is coming. I have been saved by my bikes horns many many times. As i used them regularly the horns used to function abnormallylike when it weak battery. I suspected battery, but it the fault of switches which are unable to deliver the power.

    Only UG2 switches are capable of carrying that power (in UG3 it is handle by bcu).

    I compare the wire guage of my UG2 switches with p135 switches. loll... They are very thin. UG2 switches wires are thick.


    Horn relay costs only 70RS but will give you peace of mind .

    Horn relay-->70 RS
    Wire--> good wire better 1sqmm required, say 10meters, you can use remaining left wire for other purposes, .
    Horn clips--> 4 for horns and 4 for relay

    After fixing relay your switch set will be free from transferring high power and will work flawlessly,. The relay will take the duty of transferring that power

    Anyway have you ever thought why horns and self, not working because of low battery. ? because of the requirement of heavy power.

    hi....

    no no i don trust anybody with my bike ...becoz i am not sure that they ill take care of it as i do ... i had given it to my frind fo almost 3 months when i went out of station for work...and when i came back i didnt feel as it was in good condition.

    thanks for sharing these with me....i really got to know much more than before.
    and about the switches i don know ...ill send u the snaps... he told me that he has installed ns200 switches.

    ill keep the present switches an change the lights to ac...i think that's the best..as u have mentioned in case 2


    "Halogen lamp(Philips 60/55w) work on AC directly connected to Regulator lighting AC output. So when i switch on all lights switch, Except halogen bulb all lights get on. Now when i start my bike my Halogen bulb will glow. Is this you are asking..??"

    yes this is what i was asking... but i got the answer in your message.


    my horns were working properly...without any issue...
    ur right mine is 2008 model i have big double horns in my bike.. i guess the electrician has installed a relay for that also in my bike..

    ill keep your advice in mind while changing the headlights..
    i wish i had a little more knowledge above these electrical i could also do the wiring myself...

    so i need not change everything to stock...
    ill change only the head lights and use the same switches.

    after reading these messages i don't know if i can trust that electrician or not...

    i knew that self start required heavy power....becoz while kick start also it requires good power.... but horns i didn't know...

    now after this much of talking i know what i should do....thanks to you man .... thanks for your time.
    ill update u soon...

    and about that test(40-50kms ride) i have not done that ...

    now from one week i am riding my bike with stock regulator...there is no such issue ...as u have said before my battery is weak... i can feel tat now...while riding during night my hid has started to flicker. i really need to do something fast.

    i have a small doubt.. before u said that my stator coil produced half current is used to charge the battery and the other half is used for headlights,now the mechanic has diverted the headlights current also to the battery.
    and in the newer models all the produced current is used to charge the battery.

    the mechanic has also done the same thing no he has used all the current produced to charge the battery ,then why my battery is spoiled ?
    the work of the stator is producing current it should not matter for the stator weather the produced current is going to headlight or battery.
    same way the battery should also get charged irrespective of parallel charging or single charging...it should take only the current required for charging right.

    for example if i need to rotate a 1ton cylinder with one hp motor ,the 1hp motor cannot do the work so i will bring an 10 hp motor and it will work fine. same way the initial charging was not enough so he has given the parallel charging (means he added some extra power) what did go wrong?

    what is the difference between the newer models and the old models?
    in some of the pulsar models like RS and AS he has given 2 projector and one projector headlights i guess those bike are all dc and the headlights use in them run on dc current.

    is there any difference in the battery of my model and the new model so that the new model has the capacity to store the current to power the headlights.

    is it possible if i use the rs model battery in my bike and continue using the hid in my bike?3

    or is there any difference between the stator of new model and my model bike?

    actually i had googled before installing the hid kit in my bike it clearly stated that the hid kit consumes less power that the halogen bulb..that means i should have a good life from my battery....
    Last edited by gurudeep; 05-23-2017, 02:43 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Srinivas sr143sr
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    I forgot one thing

    P200NS or P135 switches are not capable of handling the stock Horns of UG2-UG3 and UG4 (initial model).

    if you observe carefully older model pulsars(UG2) and your model have bigger horns compared to latest Pulsar horns(smaller horns).

    In my observation, i tried to use my bikes(UG2) horns with P135 switches and the are unable to function properly. so i thought my previous setup(rewinded coil+APE regulator) was not supplying proper voltage or it is faulty. My mechanic Fuc*** has no knowledge about it. He is an ASSHO**

    what happened is my setup(rewinded coil+APE regulator) are giving very good voltage but because of horns i am mislead-ed and removed that setup. Actually its very good setup.

    So i came to Avenger setup now wasting money. hmm...

    If you are going to use all stock (everything) then no need of Horn relay. But if you are going to use P200NS switches. IT IS MANDATORY TO USE HORN RELAY..!!! KEEP IT IN MIND. YOU SHOULD USE IT FOR YOUR BIKES HORNS..!!

    If you donot use relay(for 200NS switches) your bikes horns will not function properly as they require heavy power and may also fool you making you to feel that battery is at fault.

    The reason is the wiring in P135, P200NS (designed to handle only one horn) switches is very thin. They try to supply power but will heat up internally as more power is transferred than required, and may also cause switch failure in future. (You have to buy whole switch assembly if at all it fails)

    But Initially they my work ok for sometime but i am sure they will not support them.

    I know this because i use horn regularly. there are many blind cuts and lanes in my city where opposite riders will not have any clue of what is coming. I have been saved by my bikes horns many many times. As i used them regularly the horns used to function abnormallylike when it weak battery. I suspected battery, but it the fault of switches which are unable to deliver the power.

    Only UG2 switches are capable of carrying that power (in UG3 it is handle by bcu).

    I compare the wire guage of my UG2 switches with p135 switches. loll... They are very thin. UG2 switches wires are thick.


    Horn relay costs only 70RS but will give you peace of mind .

    Horn relay-->70 RS
    Wire--> good wire better 1sqmm required, say 10meters, you can use remaining left wire for other purposes, .
    Horn clips--> 4 for horns and 4 for relay

    After fixing relay your switch set will be free from transferring high power and will work flawlessly,. The relay will take the duty of transferring that power

    Anyway have you ever thought why horns and self, not working because of low battery. ? because of the requirement of heavy power.

    Leave a comment:


  • Srinivas sr143sr
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    Originally posted by gurudeep View Post
    yes i have holidays on Sundays... on that day i have all the work to complete which is kept pending.
    i will do the test before the monsoon starts or ill move to stock setup. i need to rectify this problem before the rainy season.

    i bought my bike in 2008 and changed the battery in 2014 while installing the hid. upto 2014 i did not have any issue with the battery or any electrical... the only thing bothering was the headlight brightness which was not enough.. i could have moved to a better brightness halogen bulb ..lack of knowledge an my foolishness took me towards HID.

    oh okay this is the funda in the switches..
    now i get it ...why he replaced my switches with ns200 switches and other bcu. he has converted my ac-dc bike into all dc.
    so now my bcu works only with dc, and i cannot go to stock set up with this becoz my headlamps will be working on ac current in stock mode.

    so according to this funda of switches

    i cannot use this ns200 switches(dont have sensors) with my stock bcu and with this current ns200 switches and bcu(whic only work on dc) i cannot have my headlamps running on ac right?

    "If your using your bikes stock switches and bikes stock BCU, he will be feeding DC to BCU, which may lead to failure may be in future(As your BCU is AC+DC type and also if you are using more capacity (more than 35w)). From BCU he might be feeding the DC to hid."

    no no i have my stock switches and the bcu with me.
    which i have packed and kept aside. ill use it.

    hey whats the abbrivation of UG in UG3?

    hey while moving to stock mode display,horn,indicator,break light works on dc right and only the parking light ,number plate light ,head lamps work on ac right?

    is it possible to switch those pilot lamp ,number plate light to dc ?
    "yes i have holidays on Sundays... on that day i have all the work to complete which is kept pending.
    i will do the test before the monsoon starts or ill move to stock setup. i need to rectify this problem before the rainy season."

    You can give your bike to your friends or relatives (explaining every thing). anyway its your wish. just a suggestion..

    UG means Upgrade. UG3-->2006 to 2008 models with AC+DC electricals

    mann.. you are saying half-half things. you have P200NS switches(with blue black lit)..??? Any mechanic will use either UG2 or UG5(P135) switches.. Post a pic if possible. Anyway P200NS and P135 switches will have same internals.


    There is no point in going back to your stock switches if you have got P200NS switches. You can run them either with AC headlight or DC headight connection (Though backlit leds will be run on DC). I have P135 switches(same as P200NS) and i run my headlamp on AC and also on DC. No problem. As i said "CONTACT TYPE SWITCHES ARE JUST SWITCHES. YOU CAN EITHER PASS AC OR DC"

    "no no i have my stock switches and the bcu with me.
    which i have packed and kept aside. ill use it."

    You dont require them anymore..!!!


    i cannot use this ns200 switches(dont have sensors) with my stock bcu and with this current ns200 switches and bcu(whic only work on dc) i cannot have my headlamps running on ac right?

    You can use NS200 switches with AC voltage for running headlights and other things. There will be no problem.

    You can now do two things.

    Case1: go back every thing to stock switches and BCU and use he bike as it is and keep those NS200 switches with you and use them in future bike. Yes they are awesome and even Hornet, CBR150R and other bike owners are looking for the backlit Non-contact type switches

    case2: you can use P200NS switches by just removing hid and use normal bulb and make it work on AC

    "hey while moving to stock mode display,horn,indicator,break light works on dc right and only the parking light ,number plate light ,head lamps work on ac right?



    First Remove Number plate small light. Its of no use. Your number plate is visible even with your bikes brake light. Why wasting extra watts..??

    "is it possible to switch those pilot lamp ,number plate light to dc ?"

    Yes its possible. Its my current bikes setup. DUMB MECHANICS in my place said its impossible. I HAVE MADE IT POSSIBLE...!!!!

    My bike setup..> Avenger 180 stator+ Avenger regulator (Stock regulator gone because of more load more Avenger 180 stator)
    meter+brake light+pilotlamps(changed to leds so that they consume lesser watts) work on DC
    P135 switches. I can say best switches available with cool look and functionality. Even they are used in Dukes..

    Halogen lamp(Philips 60/55w) work on AC directly connected to Regulator lighting AC output. So when i switch on all lights switch, Except halogen bulb all lights get on. Now when i start my bike my Halogen bulb will glow. Is this you are asking..??


    Pass switch work on DC--> for instant glow while overtaking .
    All these are my own mods and i have done on my own using my own knowledge. Using them past 2 years with peace of mind.

    I have even rewinded Statorcoil+APE regulator setup, but kept aside for my future bike It too works flawlessly making my bike completly work on DC

    Leave a comment:


  • gurudeep
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    Originally posted by Srinivas sr143sr View Post
    Without doing the test, you will never be able to diagnose the battery and regulator functionality..!!!


    Sunday, Holiday..??? then you can do the test..?? Its upto you...


    The regulators when not connected to battery shows abnormal readings and that is okay. One regulator reading should not be compared to another one. Both have different output settings.
    I asked to test whether the DC voltage is increasing or not. faulty regulator will not show any increase in reading. As both your regulators are showing increase in voltage, next thing is to check your stock regulator by TEST(what i have mentioned).
    For Testing
    either you can do this "(run the bike for 40 to 50 kms without any horn self or hid then disconnect the wire from spark plug and crank the engine using self 19 to 20 times if the performance is same as the first cranking for the 21 first time my battery and regulator are fine)" or while riding (after many kms) self and horns should work whenever you want without showing any weakness.

    "so going back to stock with the halogen light is the best for the bike and for my purse also i think so."
    Yes without rewinding your coil you cant do anything. Also your stock halogen should be connected to AC and not DC.!!! If you connect your halogen bulb by just removing hid, it will also suck your battery fast, as it is DC.


    "is there any difference in the switches used in the bike like ac switches which is ment for the systems running on ac power and dc switches for dc systems"

    Contact type switches---> UG2, P135, UG5, 200NS,RS,DUKE, Hero, Honda etc bikes switches. They are just dumb switches. You give AC they transfer AC. You give DC they transfer DC.

    Non-contact Switches---> UG3 to UG4.5. Works on DC, having sensors and transfer the signal to BCU. They are not involved in any transfer of voltage/power to indicators or horns or bulbs. It is the BCU that receives signals from Non-contact switches and transfer the voltage/power to bulbs, horns etc.

    You have stock UG3 switches and BCU right...????

    --->stock UG3-UG4.5 switches work on DC...!!!! Your mechanic is a fool..!!!

    --->stock UG4-UG4.5 BCU is designed to work on DC ONLY

    --->but stock UG3 BCU take both DC and AC and distribute according to bike needs (like AC to bulbs, DC to indicators, Horns etc). (may be because of this he is suggesting to change switches. switches has nothing to do. They have sensors thats it)

    --->HID works on DC.

    If your using your bikes stock switches and bikes stock BCU, he will be feeding DC to BCU, which may lead to failure may be in future(As your BCU is AC+DC type and also if you are using more capacity (more than 35w)). From BCU he might be feeding the DC to hid.
    yes i have holidays on Sundays... on that day i have all the work to complete which is kept pending.
    i will do the test before the monsoon starts or ill move to stock setup. i need to rectify this problem before the rainy season.

    i bought my bike in 2008 and changed the battery in 2014 while installing the hid. upto 2014 i did not have any issue with the battery or any electrical... the only thing bothering was the headlight brightness which was not enough.. i could have moved to a better brightness halogen bulb ..lack of knowledge an my foolishness took me towards HID.

    oh okay this is the funda in the switches..
    now i get it ...why he replaced my switches with ns200 switches and other bcu. he has converted my ac-dc bike into all dc.
    so now my bcu works only with dc, and i cannot go to stock set up with this becoz my headlamps will be working on ac current in stock mode.

    so according to this funda of switches

    i cannot use this ns200 switches(dont have sensors) with my stock bcu and with this current ns200 switches and bcu(whic only work on dc) i cannot have my headlamps running on ac right?

    "If your using your bikes stock switches and bikes stock BCU, he will be feeding DC to BCU, which may lead to failure may be in future(As your BCU is AC+DC type and also if you are using more capacity (more than 35w)). From BCU he might be feeding the DC to hid."

    no no i have my stock switches and the bcu with me.
    which i have packed and kept aside. ill use it.

    hey whats the abbrivation of UG in UG3?

    hey while moving to stock mode display,horn,indicator,break light works on dc right and only the parking light ,number plate light ,head lamps work on ac right?

    is it possible to switch those pilot lamp ,number plate light to dc ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Srinivas sr143sr
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    Originally posted by gurudeep View Post
    ya i know how to use a multi meter and set the range in it ...the multi meter was not mine ..
    i borrowed it from the mechanic ...he had set the range and given it to me..

    but i got the readings right?

    i know and remember what u have said regarding the test... i cannot do it at present because the distance between my home and my office is 4 kms one way ...in a day i hardly travel 10kms in the bike.. and i have 12 hours shift if i travel one way during day (i.e without the lights ) while returning i should use the lights during return.

    (run the bike for 40 to 50 kms without any horn self or hid then disconnect the wire from spark plug and crank the engine using self 19 to 20 times if the performance is same as the first cranking for the 21 first time my battery and regulator are fine) this is the test that u told me to do right? i remember it.

    i think i will not be able to do this test in the near future...but if i get a chance to travel that much i will surely keep the points that u have mentioned in mind and do the tests..


    but at present from couple of days i have disconnected the 4 pin regulator...and as i said for the range i am traveling i can self start for a couple of times and use horn during the ride... during night its only hid nothing else.

    "Case1:
    Remove 4-pin connector and keep connected your original Regulator connection(6-pin). Now at the 6-pin socket place leads of multi meter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Black-yellow wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??
    readings @ idling starts @4v and as the throttle is raised to 4000rpm it shows 5,6 and >

    Case2:
    Remove 6-pin connector and keep connected your 4-pin Regulator . Now at the 4-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Lightgreen-Red wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??
    readings @ idling starts @ 9.80v to 20 and above before reaching 4000 rpm"why there is this much diffrence in reading in this test..
    since the stock regulator reading is less compared to the 4 pin regulator i thought my regulator has already been destroyed.


    so going back to stock with the halogen light is the best for the bike and for my purse also i think so.

    i have one more doubt.
    is there any difference in the switches used in the bike like ac switches which is ment for the systems running on ac power and dc switches for dc systems?

    becoz when i installed the HID the electrician told me for the HID to work properly i have to change all the switches as my stock switches were ac compatible and will not work for dc set up is this true?
    Without doing the test, you will never be able to diagnose the battery and regulator functionality..!!!


    Sunday, Holiday..??? then you can do the test..?? Its upto you...


    The regulators when not connected to battery shows abnormal readings and that is okay. One regulator reading should not be compared to another one. Both have different output settings.
    I asked to test whether the DC voltage is increasing or not. faulty regulator will not show any increase in reading. As both your regulators are showing increase in voltage, next thing is to check your stock regulator by TEST(what i have mentioned).
    For Testing
    either you can do this "(run the bike for 40 to 50 kms without any horn self or hid then disconnect the wire from spark plug and crank the engine using self 19 to 20 times if the performance is same as the first cranking for the 21 first time my battery and regulator are fine)" or while riding (after many kms) self and horns should work whenever you want without showing any weakness.

    "so going back to stock with the halogen light is the best for the bike and for my purse also i think so."
    Yes without rewinding your coil you cant do anything. Also your stock halogen should be connected to AC and not DC.!!! If you connect your halogen bulb by just removing hid, it will also suck your battery fast, as it is DC.


    "is there any difference in the switches used in the bike like ac switches which is ment for the systems running on ac power and dc switches for dc systems"

    Contact type switches---> UG2, P135, UG5, 200NS,RS,DUKE, Hero, Honda etc bikes switches. They are just dumb switches. You give AC they transfer AC. You give DC they transfer DC.

    Non-contact Switches---> UG3 to UG4.5. Works on DC, having sensors and transfer the signal to BCU. They are not involved in any transfer of voltage/power to indicators or horns or bulbs. It is the BCU that receives signals from Non-contact switches and transfer the voltage/power to bulbs, horns etc.

    You have stock UG3 switches and BCU right...????

    --->stock UG3-UG4.5 switches work on DC...!!!! Your mechanic is a fool..!!!

    --->stock UG4-UG4.5 BCU is designed to work on DC ONLY

    --->but stock UG3 BCU take both DC and AC and distribute according to bike needs (like AC to bulbs, DC to indicators, Horns etc). (may be because of this he is suggesting to change switches. switches has nothing to do. They have sensors thats it)

    --->HID works on DC.

    If your using your bikes stock switches and bikes stock BCU, he will be feeding DC to BCU, which may lead to failure may be in future(As your BCU is AC+DC type and also if you are using more capacity (more than 35w)). From BCU he might be feeding the DC to hid.
    Last edited by Srinivas sr143sr; 05-13-2017, 01:33 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • gurudeep
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    Originally posted by Srinivas sr143sr View Post
    As per your readings, both regulators are charging battery and its PARALLEL CHARGING..!!! Its confirmed..!!

    I thought that you know using multimeter. As you are checking DC at 20Volts setting(Wheel pointer)range in Multimeter and that range has crossed your multimeter might have stopped working..!!!

    As far as your 6-pin regulator readings they are fine..!!!

    I explained in a detailed manner and you have not done what i have said....

    To confirm your bikes stock regulator and battery health, you have to remove 4-pin regulator, drive your bike for a good amount of time(read previous messages) so that you are testing the battery and regulator.

    YOU SHOULD NOT USE HID OR ANY LIGHTS WHILE DOING THIS...!!!

    Mann... i have already said that and you are saying HID is working fine.. Then whats the use of all these things...

    HID doesnt care about anything. if your bike battery has some charge it will work until charge gets finished.

    First Test your bike as i have said..

    After riding your bike for good amount of time(Ride a single day for more than 50-60kms if possible, try to drive at 4-5K RPM(or more than that) if possible), test your bike for proper functioning of Horns and selfstarter (Read previous messages, i have given how to test)

    without these details, i cant help you..

    One more thing as long as reliability is concerned donot go for any LED lights. First test your bike and revert with results.

    I will tell you again..

    1. Remove 4-pin regulator
    2. Start your bike only with kick and ride for number of kms if possible ride at 4-5K rpm but take care..!!
    3. Donot use.. Horn, Selfstarter, Hid, or any others while doing the whole test.
    4. do it for a day(if covered a lot of kms) or do it for 2 days.
    5. After completing test(use kick at day starting) and after that you should be able to use selfstart when ever you want and horn also. NEVER EVER USE HID EVEN AFTER COMPLETING THE TEST AND COMING BACK HERE...!!!

    YOU ARE NOT GETTING WHAT I AM SAYING. YOUR BIKE REGULATOR IS INTENDED TO SUPPORT HORN, SELF AND INDICATORS ONLY.
    AFTER MARKET LEDS ARE POOR IN RELIABLITY AND GIEVS AWFUL LIGHTING AND NOT USEFUL IN FOG AND RAINY CONDITIONS.

    IF THE MECHANIC IS TRYING TO USE YOUR BIKES AC LIGHTING THEN ALSO RELIABILITY WILL BE AN ISSUE AS UG2 AND UG3 HAVE ALWAYS FLUCTUATING AC THROUGH OUT THE RPM RANGE.

    DONOT GO FOR ANY LEDS, COME HERE BACK WITH RESULTS..

    ya i know how to use a multi meter and set the range in it ...the multi meter was not mine ..
    i borrowed it from the mechanic ...he had set the range and given it to me..

    but i got the readings right?

    i know and remember what u have said regarding the test... i cannot do it at present because the distance between my home and my office is 4 kms one way ...in a day i hardly travel 10kms in the bike.. and i have 12 hours shift if i travel one way during day (i.e without the lights ) while returning i should use the lights during return.

    (run the bike for 40 to 50 kms without any horn self or hid then disconnect the wire from spark plug and crank the engine using self 19 to 20 times if the performance is same as the first cranking for the 21 first time my battery and regulator are fine) this is the test that u told me to do right? i remember it.

    i think i will not be able to do this test in the near future...but if i get a chance to travel that much i will surely keep the points that u have mentioned in mind and do the tests..


    but at present from couple of days i have disconnected the 4 pin regulator...and as i said for the range i am traveling i can self start for a couple of times and use horn during the ride... during night its only hid nothing else.

    "Case1:
    Remove 4-pin connector and keep connected your original Regulator connection(6-pin). Now at the 6-pin socket place leads of multi meter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Black-yellow wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??
    readings @ idling starts @4v and as the throttle is raised to 4000rpm it shows 5,6 and >

    Case2:
    Remove 6-pin connector and keep connected your 4-pin Regulator . Now at the 4-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Lightgreen-Red wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??
    readings @ idling starts @ 9.80v to 20 and above before reaching 4000 rpm"why there is this much diffrence in reading in this test..
    since the stock regulator reading is less compared to the 4 pin regulator i thought my regulator has already been destroyed.


    so going back to stock with the halogen light is the best for the bike and for my purse also i think so.

    i have one more doubt.
    is there any difference in the switches used in the bike like ac switches which is ment for the systems running on ac power and dc switches for dc systems?

    becoz when i installed the HID the electrician told me for the HID to work properly i have to change all the switches as my stock switches were ac compatible and will not work for dc set up is this true?

    Leave a comment:


  • Srinivas sr143sr
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    Originally posted by gurudeep View Post
    hi...i am back with the data.. i lost my display while conducting one test.

    with both the regulators the readings in the battery terminals are 14.44 to 15.43 when throttle raised to 3500-4000rpm

    Now Test it-- >
    Both Regulators sockets are connected right...????
    Remove 4-pin socket. start bike and take readings at battery. the voltage will increase.
    readings for 6 pin regulator -13.84 to13.95 @3500 to 4000 rpm

    Now Fix that socket back and remove 6-pin socket(If you removed 4pin at first, fix that back and now remove 6pin one). now start bike and take readings at battery. the voltage will increase.
    Readings for 4 pin regulator -14.52 to14.72 @3500 to 4000 rpm

    If in both cases either removing 4pin or 6 pin, voltage is increasing.. right..???, its parallel charging.
    the voltage is almost the same for both the the test. what dose this mean?

    Your bike is in serious trouble if its parallel charging. Test it as soon as possible.


    For double confirming Parallel charging do the following.

    Disconnect battery both +ve and -ve wires (i.e; remove battery connections at battery terminals)


    Case1:
    Remove 4-pin connector and keep connected your original Regulator connection(6-pin). Now at the 6-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Black-yellow wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??
    readings @ idling starts @4v and as the throttle is raised to 4000rpm it shows 5,6 and >

    Case2:
    Remove 6-pin connector and keep connected your 4-pin Regulator . Now at the 4-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Lightgreen-Red wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??
    readings @ idling starts @ 9.80v to 20 and above before reaching 4000 rpm

    while doing the case 2 test i lost my display ...no numbers or lights in the display.

    in the above data when the readings for 6 pin regulator with battery connection is 13.84 approx and without battery connection is 4 to 8v approx (
    i have given the acceleration only till 4000 rpm for all the test becoz that's my normal riding speed) dose this mean that my stock regulator is not working properly?
    becoz according to my knowledge after reading this whole messages the readings in the 6 pin socket (
    in the white and black -yellow wire which goes for charging the battery)without the battery connected should be above 12volts becoz that's the voltage required for charging the battery right?

    that's why he has connected the other regulator right ?

    which one is working fine my stock regulator or the 4 pin regulator?
    while testing the case 2 i lost my display ,is this due to the high voltage given out by the 4 pin regulator?

    today after doing all these i disconnected the connection from the 4 pin regulator and started using the stock one only...
    my hid was running ok with the stock regulator but the horn was not working.

    what to do i am confused... i am thinking removing the hid and fitting a normal led light in its place.

    my mechanic told me that a new type of led light which can be directly fitted into the halogen bulb socket has arrived in the market ,he told me to bring everything back to the stock mode and then he will fix that led bulb to the headlights.

    option 1
    now in the present condition my hid is running through battery.if i just remove the hid and fix a halogen bulb holder and fix a halogen bulb or led bulb will it work? (
    becoz in stock mode my halogen bulb was running in ac current ,i could not switch on the lights without starting the engine) will the power consumption from battery will be more than hid or less that hid.

    or

    option 2
    if i change everything back to ac and fix the same halogen or led bulb will it work?
    ( in this mode i will not be able to switch on the headlights without starting the engine)with this mode atleast i can decrease the load on my battery as the lights will run on direct stator produced ac current .

    which one is better? option 1 or option 2?


    dose both the halogen and led bulb work in both ac and dc mode?

    and at last i have decided i will not replace the display until i sort out this issue.

    As per your readings, both regulators are charging battery and its PARALLEL CHARGING..!!! Its confirmed..!!

    I thought that you know using multimeter. As you are checking DC at 20Volts setting(Wheel pointer)range in Multimeter and that range has crossed your multimeter might have stopped working..!!!

    As far as your 6-pin regulator readings they are fine..!!!

    I explained in a detailed manner and you have not done what i have said....

    To confirm your bikes stock regulator and battery health, you have to remove 4-pin regulator, drive your bike for a good amount of time(read previous messages) so that you are testing the battery and regulator.

    YOU SHOULD NOT USE HID OR ANY LIGHTS WHILE DOING THIS...!!!

    Mann... i have already said that and you are saying HID is working fine.. Then whats the use of all these things...

    HID doesnt care about anything. if your bike battery has some charge it will work until charge gets finished.

    First Test your bike as i have said..

    After riding your bike for good amount of time(Ride a single day for more than 50-60kms if possible, try to drive at 4-5K RPM(or more than that) if possible), test your bike for proper functioning of Horns and selfstarter (Read previous messages, i have given how to test)

    without these details, i cant help you..

    One more thing as long as reliability is concerned donot go for any LED lights. First test your bike and revert with results.

    I will tell you again..

    1. Remove 4-pin regulator
    2. Start your bike only with kick and ride for number of kms if possible ride at 4-5K rpm but take care..!!
    3. Donot use.. Horn, Selfstarter, Hid, or any others while doing the whole test.
    4. do it for a day(if covered a lot of kms) or do it for 2 days.
    5. After completing test(use kick at day starting) and after that you should be able to use selfstart when ever you want and horn also. NEVER EVER USE HID EVEN AFTER COMPLETING THE TEST AND COMING BACK HERE...!!!

    YOU ARE NOT GETTING WHAT I AM SAYING. YOUR BIKE REGULATOR IS INTENDED TO SUPPORT HORN, SELF AND INDICATORS ONLY.
    AFTER MARKET LEDS ARE POOR IN RELIABLITY AND GIEVS AWFUL LIGHTING AND NOT USEFUL IN FOG AND RAINY CONDITIONS.

    IF THE MECHANIC IS TRYING TO USE YOUR BIKES AC LIGHTING THEN ALSO RELIABILITY WILL BE AN ISSUE AS UG2 AND UG3 HAVE ALWAYS FLUCTUATING AC THROUGH OUT THE RPM RANGE.

    DONOT GO FOR ANY LEDS, COME HERE BACK WITH RESULTS..

    Leave a comment:


  • gurudeep
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    hi...i am back with the data.. i lost my display while conducting one test.

    with both the regulators the readings in the battery terminals are 14.44 to 15.43 when throttle raised to 3500-4000rpm

    Now Test it-- >
    Both Regulators sockets are connected right...????
    Remove 4-pin socket. start bike and take readings at battery. the voltage will increase.
    readings for 6 pin regulator -13.84 to13.95 @3500 to 4000 rpm

    Now Fix that socket back and remove 6-pin socket(If you removed 4pin at first, fix that back and now remove 6pin one). now start bike and take readings at battery. the voltage will increase.
    Readings for 4 pin regulator -14.52 to14.72 @3500 to 4000 rpm

    If in both cases either removing 4pin or 6 pin, voltage is increasing.. right..???, its parallel charging.
    the voltage is almost the same for both the the test. what dose this mean?

    Your bike is in serious trouble if its parallel charging. Test it as soon as possible.


    For double confirming Parallel charging do the following.

    Disconnect battery both +ve and -ve wires (i.e; remove battery connections at battery terminals)


    Case1:
    Remove 4-pin connector and keep connected your original Regulator connection(6-pin). Now at the 6-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Black-yellow wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??
    readings @ idling starts @4v and as the throttle is raised to 4000rpm it shows 5,6 and >

    Case2:
    Remove 6-pin connector and keep connected your 4-pin Regulator . Now at the 4-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Lightgreen-Red wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??
    readings @ idling starts @ 9.80v to 20 and above before reaching 4000 rpm

    while doing the case 2 test i lost my display ...no numbers or lights in the display.

    in the above data when the readings for 6 pin regulator with battery connection is 13.84 approx and without battery connection is 4 to 8v approx (
    i have given the acceleration only till 4000 rpm for all the test becoz that's my normal riding speed) dose this mean that my stock regulator is not working properly?
    becoz according to my knowledge after reading this whole messages the readings in the 6 pin socket (
    in the white and black -yellow wire which goes for charging the battery)without the battery connected should be above 12volts becoz that's the voltage required for charging the battery right?

    that's why he has connected the other regulator right ?

    which one is working fine my stock regulator or the 4 pin regulator?
    while testing the case 2 i lost my display ,is this due to the high voltage given out by the 4 pin regulator?

    today after doing all these i disconnected the connection from the 4 pin regulator and started using the stock one only...
    my hid was running ok with the stock regulator but the horn was not working.

    what to do i am confused... i am thinking removing the hid and fitting a normal led light in its place.

    my mechanic told me that a new type of led light which can be directly fitted into the halogen bulb socket has arrived in the market ,he told me to bring everything back to the stock mode and then he will fix that led bulb to the headlights.

    option 1
    now in the present condition my hid is running through battery.if i just remove the hid and fix a halogen bulb holder and fix a halogen bulb or led bulb will it work? (
    becoz in stock mode my halogen bulb was running in ac current ,i could not switch on the lights without starting the engine) will the power consumption from battery will be more than hid or less that hid.

    or

    option 2
    if i change everything back to ac and fix the same halogen or led bulb will it work?
    ( in this mode i will not be able to switch on the headlights without starting the engine)with this mode atleast i can decrease the load on my battery as the lights will run on direct stator produced ac current .

    which one is better? option 1 or option 2?


    dose both the halogen and led bulb work in both ac and dc mode?

    and at last i have decided i will not replace the display until i sort out this issue.

    Leave a comment:


  • Srinivas sr143sr
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    Originally posted by gurudeep View Post

    Thats what i am asking you to check mann.. Disconnecting one at a time and checking. If voltage incraeses at both cases its parallel charging. and if both cases are true, now even if you disconnect 4-pin charger your bike battery gets charged.

    If your stock regulator is ok and the mechanic connected the extra regulator for parallel charging the battery will get charged as your stock regulator and 4-pin regulator both will do the job. (But its not the way to charge the battery)

    It is like sharing a single job with two persons. If one person is on leave the work is not stopped right..????

    Hid will work as long as your battery has charge. Hid doesnt mind with what you are charging your battery whether you use single regulator or 100 regulators.

    as u have mentioned in ur message the red-yellow wire was bringing ac voltage to my stock regulator and then sent back to power my stock halogen bulb through yellow wire right (in the 6 pin regulator)?

    Yes, Yellow wire of 6-pin regulator(stock regulator)

    now the yellow wire is idle right it is not supplying any power to any electrical of my bike right?

    Yes, Not supplying any AC power for Lighting

    now the question arises ...how are my ac electrical working ...from where is the power being supplied to them? i cannot c any wire going out of my batter to my hid or horn? can u plz explain this ?

    As per my knowledge UG3 uses AC lighting power for--> Stock Halogen bulb(35/35w) + Two pilot lamps + small Number plate lamp + Half circuit of Brake Led (It might be converted to DC inside that LED setup) (I am assuming it as it flickers in low voltage, mostly i am true)+ Power for BCU(It can be run by DC but we should be ready for Surprises, as UG3 BCU is designed to handle AC+DC).

    Thats it. As Your bike has no AC now, all these will be run by DC of your battery(modfication by mechanic) and for this, DC +ve can be taken by number of wires from your wiring. Its not like that you should take it only from battrey +ve wire itself. so you are unable to trace that. Very simple process it is..!!


    there are some new symptoms in my bike now ...while riding during the day time electric start works for a couple of time horn also works for two times the no sound coming from it.. since i don do much traveling in the bike (aprox 14kms per day ).

    Symptoms of weak battery. If both cases come true(testing). Remove 4 pin connector and ride the bike for two days without using hid.
    after that on third day the horns and self start should work as usual without any trouble.

    Even though doing all these, ifthe battery is not working properly on 4th or 5th day (without using hid at all on any day), you can look it as a battery issue(Because of the damage caused by your parallel charging and your hid setup)

    and during the night when the hid is on a battery sign starts to flash in the display of my bike ...and no electric start or horn works..

    Indication of weak battery as you are using your HID

    what dose these symptoms indicate?
    dose is say that my battery is dead? or going to be dead? or starving for power? or unable to store power?

    Read above answer. And any one thing as you have said. But as you are saying its new battery its running on low power, it may get recovered completely once you stop parallel charging and using Hid.

    thanks srinivas for your patients and time.. i hope i am not irritating you.

    give me a treat after you have sorted your problem.. hehe

    will be back with the results soon.





    Answers in normal fonts

    Leave a comment:


  • gurudeep
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    Originally posted by Srinivas sr143sr View Post
    Read till the end.-- i read your msgs 3 4 times till the end without leaving a word

    hi ...the answers are in bold.... cool man what ever u sai is right here about the connections...r u a professional?

    The Red Brick like thing is your bikes regulator.

    You have taken the pics but the connections are not clear as the mechanic has covered them with tapes.

    --->In last pic, two wires(Yellow and green of 4 pin connector) are joined and cant be seen where they are going.
    its is going to red-yellow of the 6 pin connector which is disconnected from the 6 pin connector(u r right)

    As per what i am seeing (you have to confirm it), In 4th pic (last but one) and last one, Yellow-Red(Stator generated AC power for lighting) is cut from going to your bikes original regulator and it is joined with Green and Yellow wires of 2nd Regulator. (You have to confirm that Green and Yellow are combined and joined to Yellow-Red wire)... ur perfectly right.

    Now Lightgreen-Red(of 2nd regulator) is Joined with Black-Yellow(Ground) of Original regulator....perfectly right.
    and White wire(of 2nd regulator) is joined with White wire(DC +ve out to battery ) of Original regulator... right here too

    Hmm---> if that is what he has done. Its Parallel-Charging. BE READY FOR SURPRISES...!!! FIRE and MORE..!!!!

    but i have been using the bike in the same setup for almost 2 years.i should have been in problem way before right?
    this is the first problem i am facing.(battery not holding the charge).


    I will explain you what he has done.....

    He has not disturbed your bikes Charging. That is i am talking about your 6 wire regulator.
    The two Blue-White wires brings AC voltage to your regulator and converts to DC voltage and now
    The Whitewire gives +ve to your battery
    The Black-Yellow gives -ve to your battery

    but u said black-yellow is the ground wire.


    They are not disturbed or cut in between by the mechanic as they charge the battery. Am i right..???...yes those wire are not disturbed... other than two wires light green-red and white wires joining respectively.

    The Yellow-Red wire carries AC current for Lighting to your stock regulator and your stock regulator regulates it around 40-45watts of AC and gives that current out via Yellow wire to your headlight and Pilot lamps and other lights which work on AC voltage.
    okay


    Now he has cut the above Yellow-Red wire and completely kept it far from reaching your regulator and
    fed it to New regulator(4-pin) and took the converted DC voltage out of it via White(DC+ve out) and Lightgreen-Red(DC-ve out) and Mixed it back with your original regulators White(DC+ve out) and Black-Yellow(DC-ve out)

    yes ...he has done the same as u have mentioned (by the way how did u come to know which is +ve and -ve there is no indication in the regulator right.. how did u cone to know that?


    uffffff...... He has no clue of what harm he is doing... It will F*** your bikes electriclas (I am saying on what i am seeing in your pics. you have to confirm it)

    the connection are the same as u said.


    Now Test it-- >
    Both Regulators sockets are connected right...????
    Remove 4-pin socket. start bike and take readings at battery. the voltage will increase.
    Now Fix that socket back and remove 6-pin socket(If you removed 4pin at first, fix that back and now remove 6pin one). now start bike and take readings at battery. the voltage will increase.

    If in both cases either removing 4pin or 6 pin, voltage is increasing.. right..???, its parallel charging.

    Your bike is in serious trouble if its parallel charging. Test it as soon as possible.


    For double confirming Parallel charging do the following.

    Disconnect battery both +ve and -ve wires (i.e; remove battery connections at battery terminals)


    Case1:
    Remove 4-pin connector and keep connected your original Regulator connection(6-pin). Now at the 6-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Black-yellow wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??


    Case2:
    Remove 6-pin connector and keep connected your 4-pin Regulator . Now at the 4-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Lightgreen-Red wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??

    look at pic for reference

    [ATTACH]229408[/ATTACH]

    If in both cases the voltage is increasing then its Parallel charging.

    If you get readings as what i said(If voltage increasing in both cases), First, you disconnect the 4-pin connector and you can ride your bike for the time being without further damaging your bikes electricals and does battery... what if my hid or electric dose not work after disconnecting the 4 pin regulator?


    Revert back with results



    as u have mentioned in ur message the red-yellow wire was bringing ac voltage to my stock regulator and then sent back to power my stock halogen bulb through yellow wire right (in the 6 pin regulator)?

    now the yellow wire is idle right it is not supplying any power to any electrical of my bike right?

    now the question arises ...how are my ac electrical working ...from where is the power being supplied to them? i cannot c any wire going out of my batter to my hid or horn? can u plz explain this ?

    there are some new symptoms in my bike now ...while riding during the day time electric start works for a couple of time horn also works for two times the no sound coming from it.. since i don do much traveling in the bike (aprox 14kms per day ).

    and during the night when the hid is on a battery sign starts to flash in the display of my bike ...and no electric start or horn works..

    what dose these symptoms indicate?
    dose is say that my battery is dead? or going to be dead? or starving for power? or unable to store power?

    thanks srinivas for your patients and time.. i hope i am not irritating you.

    will be back with the results soon.





    Leave a comment:


  • Srinivas sr143sr
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    Originally posted by gurudeep View Post

    as u have mentioned here which connection should I disconnect?
    The 6 terminal connections or the 4 terminal connection?[ATTACH]229402[/ATTACH]


    as u can c in the male connector one of the middle wire is not in the connector but he has took the wire outside and from that wire he has drawn two wires that is green and yell ow which goes to the other connector...why he has done this?
    Read till the end.

    The Red Brick like thing is your bikes regulator.

    You have taken the pics but the connections are not clear as the mechanic has covered them with tapes.

    --->In last pic, two wires(Yellow and green of 4 pin connector) are joined and cant be seen where they are going.

    As per what i am seeing (you have to confirm it), In 4th pic (last but one) and last one, Yellow-Red(Stator generated AC power for lighting) is cut from going to your bikes original regulator and it is joined with Green and Yellow wires of 2nd Regulator. (You have to confirm that Green and Yellow are combined and joined to Yellow-Red wire)
    Now Lightgreen-Red(of 2nd regulator) is Joined with Black-Yellow(Ground) of Original regulator
    and White wire(of 2nd regulator) is joined with White wire(DC +ve out to battery ) of Original regulator.

    Hmm---> if that is what he has done. Its Parallel-Charging. BE READY FOR SURPRISES...!!! FIRE and MORE..!!!!

    I will explain you what he has done.....

    He has not disturbed your bikes Charging. That is i am talking about your 6 wire regulator.
    The two Blue-White wires brings AC voltage to your regulator and converts to DC voltage and now
    The Whitewire gives +ve to your battery
    The Black-Yellow gives -ve to your battery

    They are not disturbed or cut in between by the mechanic as they charge the battery. Am i right..???

    The Yellow-Red wire carries AC current for Lighting to your stock regulator and your stock regulator regulates it around 40-45watts of AC and gives that current out via Yellow wire to your headlight and Pilot lamps and other lights which work on AC voltage.

    Now he has cut the above Yellow-Red wire and completely kept it far from reaching your regulator and
    fed it to New regulator(4-pin) and took the converted DC voltage out of it via White(DC+ve out) and Lightgreen-Red(DC-ve out) and Mixed it back with your original regulators White(DC+ve out) and Black-Yellow(DC-ve out)


    uffffff...... He has no clue of what harm he is doing... It will F*** your bikes electriclas (I am saying on what i am seeing in your pics. you have to confirm it)


    Now Test it-- >
    Both Regulators sockets are connected right...????
    Remove 4-pin socket. start bike and take readings at battery. the voltage will increase.
    Now Fix that socket back and remove 6-pin socket(If you removed 4pin at first, fix that back and now remove 6pin one). now start bike and take readings at battery. the voltage will increase.

    If in both cases either removing 4pin or 6 pin, voltage is increasing.. right..???, its parallel charging.

    Your bike is in serious trouble if its parallel charging. Test it as soon as possible.


    For double confirming Parallel charging do the following.

    Disconnect battery both +ve and -ve wires (i.e; remove battery connections at battery terminals)


    Case1:
    Remove 4-pin connector and keep connected your original Regulator connection(6-pin). Now at the 6-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Black-yellow wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??


    Case2:
    Remove 6-pin connector and keep connected your 4-pin Regulator . Now at the 4-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Lightgreen-Red wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??

    look at pic for reference

    Click image for larger version

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    If in both cases the voltage is increasing then its Parallel charging.

    If you get readings as what i said(If voltage increasing in both cases), First, you disconnect the 4-pin connector and you can ride your bike for the time being without further damaging your bikes electricals and battery.


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  • gurudeep
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    Originally posted by Srinivas sr143sr View Post
    Replies in Bold. See.. In my experience many almost 80% dont know what they are doing. They will fix temporarily. When you are going to fix a Hid for your UG3, the electrician for making easy money they will fix and says everything will be fine. Sometimes its also intentional for making easy money...!!!
    Hey… thanks man for the info…I have posted 5 snaps of the connections he had made…


    The pics are the same but from different angles… in the last pic .. in the top left that red box like thing is it my stock regulator?

    What i am saying is remove the socket from that regulator. start bike and check voltage at battery. if voltage is not increasing, it means that regulator is used for charging battery. Any way if you click the pics of those 6 wires at that white socket i will be able to say what he has done with your bike.”

    as u have mentioned here which connection should I disconnect?
    The 6 terminal connections or the 4 terminal connection?Click image for larger version

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ID:	1949690


    as u can c in the male connector one of the middle wire is not in the connector but he has took the wire outside and from that wire he has drawn two wires that is green and yell ow which goes to the other connector...why he has done this?
    Attached Files
    Last edited by gurudeep; 05-08-2017, 11:47 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Srinivas sr143sr
    replied
    Re: HID causing battery drain

    Originally posted by gurudeep View Post
    Omg ..i think I have lost my stock regulator …that’s why he has installed that regulator for charging the battery
    Now I remember ….After I installed the hid with the new battery. The set up was fine for say 6 months or so then I had a small problem..i don’t remember exactly what the problem was but it had to do something with charging of the battery….that’s y I took the bike to him and he did fix that two electrical equipment’s in front of me…
    Is there any chance that my stock regulator was not able to charge the battery correctly that’s y he has fixed tat new regulator?

    Maybe your regulator has failed. Its like treating a dog like a donkey and making it to carry the weights. What happens.. Lolll... Dog dies after some days
    If you show the wires(6 wires) total connections at white socket im able to tell what he has done.


    “case 1: If he was trying to utilize lighting power of your bike converted to dc(using Green circle regulator) along with your bikes regulator, it will lead to DISASTER.”
    does this mean that he is using the power from my stock regulator to charge the battery and at the same time ac current produced by the stator for lighting purpose is also converted to dc and is being used to charge the battery using the new regulator…. If he has done this set up I might have a chance of blowing up my battery right?

    Yes, thats parallel charging and it should not be done. And it can be confirmed only by seeing wires.

    And if he has done the above mentioned set up he should have done a new wiring from my battery to the hid Right??

    Simple. HID should be powered from direct battery +. It has nothing to do with what he has done with your bikes regulator

    As u said ill check whatever u have mentioned here and will be back soon with the data… I don have a millimeter to check I have to go to a service station for that that’s the one which will take time …but I will do it..
    “Try to remove the socket from Green circle regulator and start bike and check voltage at battery. Does the voltage increasing with throttle...?? If No, that regulator is being used for charging battery.”

    I didn’t get this point did u mean to say that…if the voltage increases that regulator is being used for charging the battery right?


    What i am saying is remove the socket from that regulator. start bike and check voltage at battery. if voltage is not increasing, it means that regualtor is used for charging battery. Any way if you click the pics of that 6 wires at that white socket i will be able to say what he has done with your bike.

    I think it might be a 55w hid …at that time I didn’t have much knowledge about these things so I might have told him to install the 55w ..(bigger the number brighter the light)

    Stock UG3 stator and Regulator are NOT AT ALL SUITABLE to handle the 55w. Even the APE RR or UG4 regulator or any regulator cant do any thing without stator upgrade.

    Even UG3 stator is not designed to charge the battery continuously for 35w headlight/Hid. I have tested it..!! It runs for 10-15 mins and then battery gets drained. all horns, self will not function properly.


    After reading your suggestion I have dropped the idea changing to ug4 system… either I will go with this or ill change everything to stock.
    Replies in Bold. See.. In my experience many almost 80% dont know what they are doing. They will fix temporarily. When you are going to fix a Hid for your UG3, the electrician for making easy money they will fix and says everything will be fine. Sometimes its also intentional for making easy money...!!!
    Last edited by Srinivas sr143sr; 05-05-2017, 08:24 PM.

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