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Thread: Sprocket Help

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    Addicted maxx's Avatar
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    Default Sprocket Help

    Hi guys,
    I am writing this thread after a long time. Well, In recent days Part from the modification done before to my cbz classic, I have put a split fire cable and ngk spark plug. With the default sprocket of 14/46 configuration, The bike's was performing way too good. Then later after few days I did sprocket it. Bought hero honda achievers 15/42 configuration. The final drive ratio was long enough+ I was too short on number of links of achievers. managed to get the link lock and fixed it in it. 2nd day and it started making tic kinda sound, the sound was so strong that it gave a feel of breaking the chain itself. So did an oilin to the chain and did setting of the chain from the castrol bike zone. Did a 230km's ride to judge the performace. Yes, the cruising was good enough but@7000rpm and 105 km/hr it got stuck and wasnt moving any furthur, earlier with 14/46 I was getting 110km/hr at 9500 rpm with the stock filter. Please help me getting the proper performance out of the mean machine. Now what should I do, those extra links that I had fitted is still loose makes the same kinda sound at times but not as much as it did earlier. Secondly, driving at contstant spped for too long it gives a feel as it is loosing its brath much like a engine used in generators I guess it has Something to do with the sprocket only!!! Please help me.
    "At speeds of 160 Miles Per Hour or say 257.44Kilometer Per Hour You realize the actual speed of your life, Life is Supersonically Fast, Don't miss anything, cause you know it wont come back to you again"

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    oh no dude!

    see 46/14 = 3.285714
    & 42/15 = 2.8
    it's toomuch.

    u changed ratio so much that the engine is just dont have torque to funtion optimally with them , one reason that HH chooses to keep that high ratio[~3.2] is that the internal gearing produces less torque , since the stroke of bike is very less 49.5 mm , which gives it revvy nature but takes away the torque that u can play with. the unicorn has [for ex] stroke of 57.8 mm means almost 9 mm more then ur hence it's internal gearing produces much torque so it odnt need to have final readuction high as it is capable of producing tht force on smaller sproket by there own design .. since cbz has short stroke hence the force at small er sprocket is less so u need to manage that with higher reduction so as to utilise what ever is produced as smaller sprocket ,

    a 14\42 setup might be agood option or go for rebore to a higher cc , even 14\42 will require rebore i feel.
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    One more reason why the stock set up is often the best. Seriously dude, a 150 cc bike can only go so fast! Try changing in small increments. What you have done is a drastic change!
    Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!

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    Hi Maxx. Got your PM..

    What happens is when you are changing the sprockets, analyse the chane in the ratio:
    HH CBZ: ( 46 / 14 ) = 3.28
    HH Achiever: (42 / 15) = 2.8

    As a result of which the gearing would have become longer and hence say for example if the engine hits redliner on 10.5k RPM Now,it will hit it on 7.5k or 8k!
    That is he will ride on higher speeds at less RPM!

    Rather what you could have done is just change the Rear sprocket

    Say For example: (42/ 14) = 3.0

    This should have been the thing to expermient! Over.. what happens is: that the chain set wears off very fast.
    Because of it inadvert seating..

    Now what i mean to say is:

    As in the image the Chain is set at particular angle,if we change it the angle also changes and hence the wear and tear increases..
    as this predefined angle changes and hence does the rear sprocket's angle also,and the wear and tear.. So does that TICK TACK kind of Sound!
    Last edited by L.P.; 09-28-2009 at 11:10 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by L.P. View Post
    Hi Maxx. Got your PM..

    What happens is when you are changing the sprockets, analyse the chane in the ratio:
    HH CBZ: ( 46 / 14 ) = 3.28
    HH Achiever: (42 / 15) = 2.8

    As a result of which the gearing would have become shorter and hence say for example if the engine hits redliner on 10.5k RPM Now,it will hit it on 7.5k or 8k!
    What he did made the gearing taller! So, now the bike carries more speed at lesser rpms. But the bike now no longer hits the redline (btw, redline is fixed and does not vary) due to lack of torque.So, in short he overdid it. A ratio of around 3.0 wound hit the sweet spot.
    Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!

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    Quote Originally Posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
    What he did made the gearing taller! So, now the bike carries more speed at lesser rpms. But the bike now no longer hits the redline (btw, redline is fixed and does not vary) due to lack of torque.So, in short he overdid it. A ratio of around 3.0 wound hit the sweet spot.
    Aaah!! Sorry about that..

    Exactly keep the front same and then reduce the Rear One!
    That should help!
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    Thanx every one for such a rapid response. The Torque is the same as that of 14/46 at 1st, 2nd and 3rd, the 4th also comes easily but when stepped onto 5th, It takes awefully lot of time to build up the torque. Wear and tear is obviously bound to happen cause the chain still makes noise. Abhijeet are you sure that 3.0 will be sweet spot i.e... 14/42....and I have the stock chainset of my cbz with 14/46 configuration. Can put the cbz classic's 14 teeth upfront and keep the same 42 teeth of achiever. I guess pitch should match the 42teeth....Wats ur take on it? Yuppe my mistake there....I thought the bike's torque would do for the drastc change as L.P knows the kinda modd have been done to the engine. 0.7mm off the head gasket assembly and so on....With the k&n air filter fitted in it. With ngk sparkplug and splitfire cable. And How do i rebore the engine? Exactly what should I do, The procedures for reboring? I am having a stock 105 jet 110 would be fine? But where would i find the matching jet's. The Zma's jet would be just too much. Its giving hickup's while riding at constant speed??? Thanx a million. Awaiting your feedback???
    "At speeds of 160 Miles Per Hour or say 257.44Kilometer Per Hour You realize the actual speed of your life, Life is Supersonically Fast, Don't miss anything, cause you know it wont come back to you again"

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    Quote Originally Posted by maxx View Post
    Thanx every one for such a rapid response. The Torque is the same as that of 14/46 at 1st, 2nd and 3rd, the 4th also comes easily but when stepped onto 5th, It takes awefully lot of time to build up the torque. Wear and tear is obviously bound to happen cause the chain still makes noise. Abhijeet are you sure that 3.0 will be sweet spot i.e... 14/42....and I have the stock chainset of my cbz with 14/46 configuration. Can put the cbz classic's 14 teeth upfront and keep the same 42 teeth of achiever. I guess pitch should match the 42teeth....Wats ur take on it? Yuppe my mistake there....I thought the bike's torque would do for the drastc change as L.P knows the kinda modd have been done to the engine. 0.7mm off the head gasket assembly and so on....With the k&n air filter fitted in it. With ngk sparkplug and splitfire cable. And How do i rebore the engine? Exactly what should I do, The procedures for reboring? I am having a stock 105 jet 110 would be fine? But where would i find the matching jet's. The Zma's jet would be just too much. Its giving hickup's while riding at constant speed??? Thanx a million. Awaiting your feedback???
    Well, ratio of around 3 should be good, but I do not have any practical experience about this! If the pitch is same, 14/42 can be used. Try it out and see. P150 Classic is 110 I guess. Maybe you can try that.

    About the reboring, sorry no idea!
    Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!

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    Quote Originally Posted by L.P. View Post
    Aaah!! Sorry about that..

    Exactly keep the front same and then reduce the Rear One!
    That should help!
    hey LP brah can u tell me red line of zma?
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