Bro, I know Bybre's are a direct fit. But I need the Nissin ones. I have no clue about it.

Ok, I need the RVM's too... My left clip-on is also a little bend....

Ok; will ask for Nissin. But IMO, the pads have got nothing to do with the caliper kit, the pads should all be the same; just a wild guess though!!!

Err...this one I'm not even sure of 1%; reason being that, they know I've good RVM's & yet I'm asking for someone else. In addition if I say I need 2 pairs of RVM's...then I need to forget my sprocks

I'd rather ask you to approach 2-3 ASC in your locality & keep pesturing them for the spares.

The issue with the tappet is there. But then again, it also depends upon how you handle/rev the bike. My issue has risen because I literally raped it when I took it to Leh. Rode it 140+ at 3000mts above sea level, many times! revved it like crazy. Like Aargee mentioned, he has not faced any issue with the tappets even after 9-10k on the odo. Shims/oil-filters are available throughout dealerships, so that's not a problem

In most cases, an engine made without consideration for noise abatement becomes NOISY e.g. most commercial vehicle diesel engines. There is no need to stifle or muffle the sound of the internal combustion or that given off naturally by inter meshing metallic parts. But in refined passenger cars, this would be a disaster so various techniques are used like greater coolant volume circulation, better lubrication, higher tolerance machining etc.

Any engine can become ROUGH due to poor maintenance, inadequate lubrication and cooling, old age, mistimed ignition/compression, worn parts etc.


I will try to answer that question too.

Now, the CBR 250 has an OHC engine meaning the camshaft is located above the cylinder head. The cams bear down on lifters as against the classic tappets found in OHV engines. If there is inadequate resting pressure on the lifters from the cams due to less valve spring pressure, engine operation will see a slight hammering of the lifters onto the valve stem causing a distinctive tuck tuck tuck tuck (as in "tuck into bed") noise.

Lifter noise comes up after prolonged and/or rough usage of the engine. I guess a number of CBR owners are going ballistic with their pocket rockets and revving the engine causing premature wear and tear

Hope this answers your question

Neither filter or shims are available yet.

And yes we all know what you did with the CBR in the Leh ride.

Before someone jumps up, let me clarify something.

1. Sunkenpirate has completed his run-in.
2. After completing run-in, I suggested that he should be revving hard for next 700-1000 km. This is would ensure crisper throttle response. Also the bike would be faster than those bikes who have not been opened up.
3. This will not result in any damage to engine as the red line is / rev limiter is the level above which there are chances to damage engine. Anything below that would not. (If someone wants to doubt this logic, please let me know the reason why the engine manufacturer would allow you to rev it to a level where it damages engine)
4. I had also suggested that he should return to his normal riding style after this period.

Calming words of peace and quiet

I am a reasonably regular visitor to this thread as I own a CBR 250 circa May 2011

Of late, I am seeing some personality clashes, flame wars on what should essentially be a common meeting place for like-minded people.

Those of us with more knowledge should give it out with grace and those who are still learning accept it with humility. I know a bit about cars, bikes, aircraft etc but not much about poetry and art. So what? I will teach and learn at the same time. That is life, is it not?

And all of us are students in this life so should possess the three critical requirements expected of this species - humility, curiosity and humour. Sarcasm, overt aggression, anger etc will get us nowhere and will infuse this thread with unwanted negative energy.

So, a gentle appeal to all of us. Let us forgive, forget and befriend once again so that we don't ignore our reason to be here - our CBR 250R, okay?

"For the first 800km do not exceed 6000 rpm. Between 800km and 1600km travelled, ride more vigorously, vary speeds and twist the throttle fully for some short periods for best coupling of the components; do not exceed 9000 rpm."

I am gonna stick with this. Would changing oils at 40/140/400kms & (obviously) at first service help in case of the CBR?

Indeed, coupled with too many OT's.

I am surprised to see no mod intervention and we aren't even on the big boards yet.

+1...
I too think the same...

I do not recommend revving hard at any stage of an IC engine especially when the engine is relatively new. I also know that there is an alternative school of thought and the proponent of this technique has displayed his handiwork on some online forum (forgot the man and the site...) I personally do not endorse this technique nor believe that it contributes to greater response or longevity of the engine.

I am speaking from my personal experience and knowledge of reciprocating and rotary engines of the past 22 odd years. My 2 cents is thus:

Modern reciprocating engines are a complex assembly of inter meshing parts some of which are stationary while others move in different planes. When these parts are fresh off of the machine on which they were made and assembled into an engine, their interaction is marred by great friction. Oil/fluid lubrication of parts in intimate contact (crankshaft middle and end bearings, big end and small end bearings, gudgeon pins, piston rings, valve train, gear box assembly etc) alleviates this issue to some extent but does not remove it completely. Over time, the few nano millimetres of metal wear off and all parts get seated properly. This is the end of the run-in or as was known earlier break-in period.

A well broken-in engine should give trouble-free service throughout its life. However, when an engine is revved hard under any load/road/gear conditions, the thin film of lubricating oil present between surfaces separates due to centrifugal force and relatively dry spots come up. Also, the lube, which requires time to form a film does not get this time and the existing film, now breaking down, is not renewed. The metal of one part now contacts the metal of the other almost directly increasing friction tremendously. Ipso facto, heat is generated which in turn dries the remaining oil in turn causing more metal to metal contact and more heat in a vicious circle. Sustained high RPM causes the protective oil films to degrade to a level where scoring of surfaces may result and a damaged engine is the result.

In modern aircraft turbine engines, the compressor revolves at up to 100000 RPM!!!! But then, lubrication is under a pressure of up to 5000PSI so no surface is without its film.

By opening up the engine, I presume you are referring to the feel one gets when an engine is broken in properly - the rough edges are gone and it climbs the RPM band smoothly without any flat spots/stuttering/gasping. I do not think that unnecessary revving will confer any tangible benefits but may in fact, nullify those conferred by a careful breaking in.

Well they are available here. Perhaps not yet where you live. Not an issue, you can get them parceled from here by someone.

Of course!

I never knew CBR comes with stock as Iridium plug!
Anyway, even if it doesn't, there is hardly any difference noticeable on my R15 other than long life for the plug&some more even firing compared to the conventional one.
On the older bike though, cold start problem was eliminated by this plug.


@sheelpriye: Congrats on booking the CBR! What made you change your mind from the 'other' bike?

@trustvishwas: I ran my R15 in very softly (almost like a Splendor) for the 1st 1K kms., then gradually increased the hard riding till 2K kms. After that, all hell broke loose from 2-4K I was only ripping and revving till the limiter all the time. Landed up with loose tappets but that was fixed&after that the need has not arisen.
My bike has crisp throttle response at any speed. I now have a normal riding style&do high revving shifts for 2-3kms. everyday. Bike responds well.

@icemang: However, my friend who did the same thing after 1K had some burnt oil smell coming when he started ripping. Is this due to what you have mentioned above?
This reduced after the service, but I used to feel initially that his bike has better throttle response compared to mine, maybe coz he started opening it up early?
My bike opened up at around 4K kms. when I was touring,
There has been no looking back since then.

@All: What is this shim related problem that you all are discussing so fervently? Please enlighten me-I really need to know since I may be a CBR owner next year.

To anyone who's hesitating to REV, all I got to say is...
Open up the engine even upto 120 Kmph, but don't do a sudden acceleration. Do it gradually without the stress upon the engine. I'm realizing the truth of the owner's manual this after an engine change & so much clocked on the ODO!!!

After 500 Kms, open up even more, rev even more, but keep it under redline.

At any point in time, if you feel roughness in the engine, change the engine oil. Do not unnecessarily keep changing oil for every 100 Kms (wish GS reads this post). When changing engine oil, do change the filter. Without which there's no use.

C250R's is a modern 4joke engine that actually doesn't need a great ordeal on run in period to keep it under certain level of RPM. That's the mistake I probably did on my first engine to have kept the rev under control. On the second, I opened up after the 1st oil change that I went after 520 odd Kms when I felt the engine was rough. Just that I kept my rev limited under 6K RPM on all gears except 6th.

Like Trustvishwas Ji says, if you don't rev the engine, the potential isn't revelaed & the engine doesn't open up or goes kaput like the 1st one of mine.

@Sarvajit - Your experiment on R15 is spot ON, those kind of niggling things will happen if ridden too softly; once in a while revs should be hard.

You must be referring to MotoMan method of breaking in. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
I do not follow this method. I believe that an engine manufacturer knows what is better for his engine.

May I was too brief about my points. What I had suggested was the drive a gear or two lower than he would normally ride. Constant Redlining / unnecessary revvying was neither suggested nor implemented. Also this was AFTER completing his run-in period. Also his riding was exclusively in the city so no chance of constant high revs.

Like I had mentioned above, I had not suggested revvying till limiter all the time. I firmly believe that after you complete your recommended run-in period, you should ride your bike at higher rpm for 700-1000 km. It improves throttle response. I have personally experienced it.

Finally got the Left RVM mirror from Honda after a 3 months wait. To my surprise it's only 390Rs which is a very good pricing and also many other parts have been arrived including the fairings, one side fairing(the piece in which CBR250R has written) costs only 900Rs and other piece(silver) something around 200-250Rs. So for changing one side full fairing it costs only 1500-2000Rs???