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Honda CBR 250R
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bro i was offered a complete package and i never asked individual prices, so cant say about the costs involved in handling.. better you check out with joel himself.. shoot him a mail..Originally posted by bbsrailfan View Post
Originally posted by BAMBI143 View Postbro i havent recieved the ffe yet.. i believe its true but with me being 120 kgs its tough to be a ninja250r killer.. a lighter rider would definitely beat the the green machineOriginally posted by theironhorse99 View Post
surely, i would post further as i get my hands on the exhaust..Originally posted by Sid85 View Post
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once you put it back you will notice the sudden power surge at 6k that disappeared with it being removedOriginally posted by wayne360 View Postthanx for the advice, will put it back asap....
and the crisp throttle response..."A good long ride can clear your mind, restore your faith, and use up a lot of fuel."
RE Bullet 1977 - Current
RX-100 1995 - Current
CBZ Classic 2003 - Current
Activa 2004 - Current
CBR 250R 2012 - Current
Ninja 650 2013 - Current.
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Be ultra careful while disassembling the OF. If the bush breaks, it is not an issue as you can always get spares. But if the clip breaks, you are in for trouble. You will then have to do some jugaad with superglue to affix the clip on its fractured base. But don't worry, if you are slow and steady and gently ease off the OF, there would be no problems.Originally posted by bbsrailfan View PostThanks sir! Will look for the white bushes. Probably it's some negligent ASC engineer's handiwork, as the fairing issue has come up only after my 1st service. I was afraid to disassemble the whole fairing, coz if I mess up, I will land up in a worse rattle than what I am facing now.
I am still extremely dissatisfied with the mileage - have completed almost 1000 kms now, 1st service over, using Honda 10W30 FS and the engine is lot more free now - but still I am getting a miserable 24-25kpl in city (heavy traffic riding at 4000-5000 RPM, shifting at 5500 RPMs) and 30 in highway (Cruising at 6000 RPM/100 KPH).
24/25 IS low FE, even for a new bike. Some tips might help:
##Keep the revs under control - the CBR has a very low mass flywheel so the crankshaft revs up and down very fast. You have be smooth on the throttle.
##Try to maintain revs within bands as far as possible rather than hear the snarl of the engine as it picks up the gas.
##Try to get to and maintain higher gears as far as conditions permit WITHOUT the engine snatching and spitting. Quick shifting from 1st thru to 4th and maintaining that is better than staying in 3rd for some time.
##I listen to the engine - gearbox sync and then shift up or down. I do not pay attention to the rev counter unless I am on the highway. If you develop the feel for this type of riding, the combo will be optimally used without strain or snatch.
##Try out some fuel additives. I have been using one for all my vehicles and the difference is palpable after just one tank - smoother engine power and delivery and higher FE plus a clean fuel system from tank to valves.
##You will find that cruising at about 80 to 85 will give you a far higher FE than the added 15 kph to 100 kph justifies. The 6th in the CBR is just a wee bit lower than it should be...
## Almost forgot. The bike has the tendency to lose about 5 to 7 lbs per sq inch of tyre pressure in say 20 odd days. Do keep the TP at 29/29 for single seat and 29/33 for pillion riding. Sounds insignificant but can affect FE by as much as 15%!
## Lube the chain. Sounds strange? A mass moving more smoothly and freely will consume lesser energy to reach that state and maintain it.
You will be surprised but if you are just that less enthu on the throttle, you will gain at least 15 % FE right away
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Replies in bold above.Originally posted by kpvision View Post
I went for a Test Ride (TR) and total ride was about a kilometer (2-3 minutes). I am not sure by test ride(s) only I would be able to make up my mind. The ride position felt unusual as I am used to more upright position. During TR, showroom sales guy was sitting in pillion (who was atleast 1.5 times my weight), that might have had an impact on handling?
- Test rides are pretty much useless for anything except for checking the riding position. I test rode atleast 6-7 different CBRs in different showrooms and still couldn't get a fair idea about handling and engine performance.
Did anybody moving from upright to this semi-sporty position felt uneasy (I am not seeing enough bike portion ahead of me as in Fiero) in the beginning?
- I used to own a Yamaha Gladiator earlier. Found the position a bit uneasy during the 1st TR but after 3-4 TRs, I actually got used to it. Now I used it for my daily commute - and I don't find anything uneasy about the seating position.
While doing solo, is the torque good enough or we have to do frequent gear changes. I am enjoying good gear spread on Fiero, so for my weight, I could do 20kmph on third/fourth gear without any lugging with good torque to accelerate later.
- Torque is very good. But being a revvy bike, you will need to keep it at 3500+ RPM to avoid snatching.
In the TR bike after starting the bike in neutral, while idling after changing to first gear, I was unable to get it back to neutral and I could only shift to second gear. Is it a feature or flaw?. I am able to find the neutral once engine is killed. However, sales guy was clue less on that but somehow could find neutral.
- TR bikes are usually badly maintained. Never faced any such issue with my bike. Neutral is easier to hit on the CBR when compared to my friend;s ZMR
- Though not permitted, you could still build up a rapport with the showroom manager and see if that helps. I have taken a ZMR and an Impulse for solo TRs.
Thanks a lot.
Yours truly.
Thanks sir. Apart from the points suggested, some replies in bold above.Originally posted by icemang View PostBe ultra careful while disassembling the OF. If the bush breaks, it is not an issue as you can always get spares. But if the clip breaks, you are in for trouble. You will then have to do some jugaad with superglue to affix the clip on its fractured base. But don't worry, if you are slow and steady and gently ease off the OF, there would be no problems.
24/25 IS low FE, even for a new bike. Some tips might help:
##Keep the revs under control - the CBR has a very low mass flywheel so the crankshaft revs up and down very fast. You have be smooth on the throttle. Try to maintain revs within bands as far as possible rather than hear the snarl of the engine as it picks up the gas.
- What's the rev range that you maintain? I maintain a rev-range of 4000-5000 RPM in city.
##Try out some fuel additives. I have been using one for all my vehicles and the difference is palpable after just one tank - smoother engine power and delivery and higher FE plus a clean fuel system from tank to valves.
- Can you share some suggestions which have worked well for you?
## Almost forgot. The bike has the tendency to lose about 5 to 7 lbs per sq inch of tyre pressure in say 20 odd days. Do keep the TP at 29/29 for single seat and 29/33 for pillion riding. Sounds insignificant but can affect FE by as much as 15%!
- And all the while I was thinking that I have a puncture!!!! Yes, I have noticed that phenomenon. I top-up my pressure once-twice a week and maintain 29-34 as I ride with a pillion most of the time.
You will be surprised but if you are just that less enthu on the throttle, you will gain at least 15 % FE right awayBiking is not about how many Km/h you put on your Speedo. It's about how many miles you put on your Odo. Ride Safe, Ride Long!
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Thanks. Got it. Will ride again as last TR. Hope "run-in" of the body would do it in due time.Originally posted by theironhorse99 View Post1. take a test ride again and check it out well. riding position is definitely not like fiero but not agreesive like r15. its just feels right.
a few days of riding and you will be just fine with it. yes if the guy in pillion is heavy then the front get a lil jumpy and does affecting handling.
2. fiero's headlight assembly is connected to the fork or lets say moves with the handle. now with faired bikes this is normal phenomenon
it will make you uneasy for 2-3 days. once you done riding for 100 odd km's you will be good.
3. cbr250r is a pretty torquey motor. you wont be needing frequent gear shifts however do not expect to run in 40's/50's in 5th/6th gear.. it will knock..
but sufficient torque for city use.
4. gear shifts are smooth. might be just a improper set clutch and hence difficult to find neutral.
also due to the toe position being more sporty than fiero it might have happened. once you get
a run-in of body with the machine
a few days and you will love it..
5. not sure about showrooms giving solo rides. PM bangalore guys for the same.. rest everything and anything
bout the CBR you have already checked AARGEE's post...
and n650 no go for short commute.. yeah if you still have the finances and wanna enjoy the 72 horse go for it.
but 250 is just apt of India...
I would like 72 horses and a nearly familiar posture on Ninja 650, but I think it is a overkill in traffic here and I may not feel taking bike out for errands. I feel that CBR250 is apt now. I was also craving for new launches like Ninja 300, Suzuki 250 or new Ductai in Bangalore. But better know that most of these news fade out and nothing really happens.~shifting at 6K RPM
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I got a paid service done at saphire Honda bannerghatta road. The mechanic was khan. My main complaint was engine roughness which is still untouched. He did everything in my presence. I wanted him to check the tappet clearence but he insisted everything was good enough till next service. Bike has run 3800kms, even my local mechanic agrees that the sound is a little rough. Next week i'll have to check with city Honda.Originally posted by bbsrailfan View PostSapphire Honda is currently the best of the lot, but it's located at JP nagar. I bought (and completed my 1st service) at City Honda, they are not bad either.
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Originally posted by shadu View PostI got a paid service done at saphire Honda bannerghatta road. The mechanic was khan. My main complaint was engine roughness which is still untouched. He did everything in my presence. I wanted him to check the tappet clearence but he insisted everything was good enough till next service. Bike has run 3800kms, even my local mechanic agrees that the sound is a little rough. Next week i'll have to check with city Honda.
see the valves make noise and its common. the roughness might be due to the chain. i had similar issues inititally and it turned out not to be valves but the chainset and other tits and bits..
also 3.8k is less.. the engine set-in continues till 5k odd though only the first 500-600 makes the diffrence.. if its unacceptable then get it checked else i believe it will reduce gradually..
also take the machine for a long trip on speeds 100 odd with the safety precautions.. let her run on those speeds for some time.. you'd enjoy the diffrence then at 4k rpm..
the engine needs to set in across all rpm's.."A good long ride can clear your mind, restore your faith, and use up a lot of fuel."
RE Bullet 1977 - Current
RX-100 1995 - Current
CBZ Classic 2003 - Current
Activa 2004 - Current
CBR 250R 2012 - Current
Ninja 650 2013 - Current.
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I was a bit unsatisfied with City Honda (though not to an extent that I'd rant about it) and was considering Sapphire Honda for my next service. Anyone had a recent exp with Sapphire JP nagar?Originally posted by shadu View PostI got a paid service done at saphire Honda bannerghatta road. The mechanic was khan. My main complaint was engine roughness which is still untouched. He did everything in my presence. I wanted him to check the tappet clearence but he insisted everything was good enough till next service. Bike has run 3800kms, even my local mechanic agrees that the sound is a little rough. Next week i'll have to check with city Honda.
Took my machine for a ride yesterday - had some dirt road riding and now my bike feels very rough. Guess dirt in the chain is the culprit. Is there any low cost alternate to chain-cleaning sprays?Originally posted by theironhorse99 View Postsee the valves make noise and its common. the roughness might be due to the chain. i had similar issues inititally and it turned out not to be valves but the chainset and other tits and bits..Biking is not about how many Km/h you put on your Speedo. It's about how many miles you put on your Odo. Ride Safe, Ride Long!
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I am facing a issue(if it all can be termed as issue I'm not much experienced) but there is always a continuous faint "tick-tick" sound whenever the bike is started in the morning.. the sound gets depressed after ride but if listened carefully its still there.. my bike has 5.5k kms on odo can't really remember when I started noticing the sound.. my friend's cbr have run 9k kms nd have simillar sound but a little bit pronounced than mine.. what may be the cause..?
Got myself a chain cleaner cum rust protector for 220 INR I'm satisfied with its cleaning capability the manufacturer name is Diamond.. yellow black bottle..Originally posted by bbsrailfan View PostTook my machine for a ride yesterday - had some dirt road riding and now my bike feels very rough. Guess dirt in the chain is the culprit. Is there any low cost alternate to chain-cleaning sprays?Last edited by BAMBI143; 02-11-2013, 05:49 PM.HISTORY IS NOT ABOUT WHO IS RIGHT BUT ABOUT WHO WRITES IT.......
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I have noticed that the CBR is VERY sensitive to chain lube or its absence.Originally posted by bbsrailfan View PostTook my machine for a ride yesterday - had some dirt road riding and now my bike feels very rough. Guess dirt in the chain is the culprit. Is there any low cost alternate to chain-cleaning sprays?
Now, "bike feels rough" is a tad generalised, don't you think? If you could be more specific, the answers would be aptly targeted.
In my opinion, dirt road biking will result in grave abuse of the bike in case of the CBR. It has a track-oriented engine, placed in a track oriented chassis, clothed with track-oriented bodywork BUT all of this modified for the street. Continued enduro-style riding would cause a humongous plethora of problems. Do reconsider your use...
The chain is a sealed O - ring type which precludes the standard wash and lube method of maintenance. Hence, a good spray/liquid type cleaner and/or lube would be correct, within reasonable cost.
I recollect having read somewhere that lubes which do not contain volatile substances are okay for the O-ring chains. Other users, please comment on this.Last edited by icemang; 02-11-2013, 09:38 PM.
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Originally posted by bbsrailfan View PostI was a bit unsatisfied with City Honda (though not to an extent that I'd rant about it) and was considering Sapphire Honda for my next service. Anyone had a recent exp with Sapphire JP nagar?
Took my machine for a ride yesterday - had some dirt road riding and now my bike feels very rough. Guess dirt in the chain is the culprit. Is there any low cost alternate to chain-cleaning sprays?
first of all.. gravel and mud/pebbles etc will make any machine rough.. they will get attached to the chain and get stuck due to sticky lube and get you contant vibes and roughness
in the engine. also any chain cleaner will not clean it completely.. so here is the DIY...
take 10 no t-spanner and over the front sprocket cover and clean that area throughly first with a brush and diesel . put it back and then clean the rest of the chain too.
like throughly. i mean the chain will get silvery shiney. let it dry for some time and then put it back on stand. tilt the bike.. start it and put in 1st gear. ask someone to hold it
if you dont have a paddock. then spray right on the rings and while the chain is moving.. and if riding in dusty /gravel roads. this needs to be done frequently. keep a check on tyre pressure and chain slack. over inflated tyre will also make it rough..
the faint click is nothing but SHIM DEVI's prakop.. best suggestion.. ignore.. even if you get the engine out and get the head cover open and the clearance for inlet is anything between 14mm-20mm they wont change it and i will also suggest not to change it..Originally posted by BAMBI143 View PostI am facing a issue(if it all can be termed as issue I'm not much experienced) but there is always a continuous faint "tick-tick" sound whenever the bike is started in the morning.. the sound gets depressed after ride but if listened carefully its still there.. my bike has 5.5k kms on odo can't really remember when I started noticing the sound.. my friend's cbr have run 9k kms nd have simillar sound but a little bit pronounced than mine.. what may be the cause..?
Got myself a chain cleaner cum rust protector for 220 INR I'm satisfied with its cleaning capability the manufacturer name is Diamond.. yellow black bottle..
for exhaust it is normal between 24-31 mm
inlet 16mm standard ( + - 3mm )
exhaust 27 mm (+ - 3mm)..
i have that tick tick too infact every cbr after 10 k will have ot.. so ignore. if your hand goes numb or its really loud. get it check. 1/2 out of 4 might need a replacement.
but 5k is too early..
to be very true all the chain cleaners have similar base properties like that of the kerosene. .however diesel is fine for the o-ring. people who know more can help on this topic.Originally posted by icemang View PostI have noticed that the CBR is VERY sensitive to chain lube or its absence.
Now, "bike feels rough" is a tad generalised, don't you think? If you could be more specific, the answers would be aptly targeted.
In my opinion, dirt road biking will result in grave abuse of the bike in case of the CBR. It has a track-oriented engine, placed in a track oriented chassis, clothed with track-oriented bodywork BUT all of this modified for the street. Continued enduro-style riding would cause a humongous plethora of problems. Do reconsider your use...
The chain is a sealed O - ring type which precludes the standard wash and lube method of maintenance. Hence, a good spray/liquid type cleaner and/or lube would be correct, within reasonable cost.
I recollect having read somewhere that lubes which do not contain volatile substances are okay for the O-ring chains. Other users, please comment on this.Last edited by theironhorse99; 02-11-2013, 10:30 PM."A good long ride can clear your mind, restore your faith, and use up a lot of fuel."
RE Bullet 1977 - Current
RX-100 1995 - Current
CBZ Classic 2003 - Current
Activa 2004 - Current
CBR 250R 2012 - Current
Ninja 650 2013 - Current.
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When i say that the bike feels rough - I mean I experience vibrations on the handlebars and tank - the kind of vibes that make your palms feel numb after a while. I am pretty sure most of us would have experienced that kind of vibes on their CBRs - and it's not only at 4500-5500 RPM, its evident across the revs range - which is one of the reasons I am sure that these vibes are different from the engine vibes which most of the users have spoken here about.Originally posted by icemang View PostNow, "bike feels rough" is a tad generalised, don't you think? If you could be more specific, the answers would be aptly targeted.
You got me wrong, dear sir! When I was referring to dirt road biking, I didn't mean enduro or motocross styled riding - all I meant was that on my last tour, I came across a significant section of hardcore Indian kutccha roads - and that was enough to screw up the bike's smoothness!Originally posted by icemang View PostIn my opinion, dirt road biking will result in grave abuse of the bike in case of the CBR. It has a track-oriented engine, placed in a track oriented chassis, clothed with track-oriented bodywork BUT all of this modified for the street. Continued enduro-style riding would cause a humongous plethora of problems. Do reconsider your use...
I had always noticed my old trusted mechanic using kerosene and a brush to clean the chain on my Gladiator - though it did the trick, I was unsure of its effect on the O-rings. If kerosene is safe, I can try the same at home.Originally posted by theironhorse99 View Postin the engine. also any chain cleaner will not clean it completely.. so here is the DIY...
take 10 no t-spanner and over the front sprocket cover and clean that area throughly first with a brush and diesel . put it back and then clean the rest of the chain too.
like throughly. i mean the chain will get silvery shiney. let it dry for some time and then put it back on stand. tilt the bike.. start it and put in 1st gear. ask someone to hold it
if you dont have a paddock. then spray right on the rings and while the chain is moving.. and if riding in dusty /gravel roads. this needs to be done frequently. keep a check on tyre pressure and chain slack. over inflated tyre will also make it rough..
to be very true all the chain cleaners have similar base properties like that of the kerosene. .however diesel is fine for the o-ring. people who know more can help on this topic.Biking is not about how many Km/h you put on your Speedo. It's about how many miles you put on your Odo. Ride Safe, Ride Long!
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Originally posted by bbsrailfan View PostWhen i say that the bike feels rough - I mean I experience vibrations on the handlebars and tank - the kind of vibes that make your palms feel numb after a while. I am pretty sure most of us would have experienced that kind of vibes on their CBRs - and it's not only at 4500-5500 RPM, its evident across the revs range - which is one of the reasons I am sure that these vibes are different from the engine vibes which most of the users have spoken here about.
You got me wrong, dear sir! When I was referring to dirt road biking, I didn't mean enduro or motocross styled riding - all I meant was that on my last tour, I came across a significant section of hardcore Indian kutccha roads - and that was enough to screw up the bike's smoothness!
I had always noticed my old trusted mechanic using kerosene and a brush to clean the chain on my Gladiator - though it did the trick, I was unsure of its effect on the O-rings. If kerosene is safe, I can try the same at home.
kerosene is just fine. people have tested o-rings with diffrent substances and let them soak for 15 days and they were no diffrent then the ones soaked in chain cleaners and other diffrent stuff..
check this awsome stuff and be at peace....
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345397
also clean the front and rear sprockets. make sure the chain gets dry and then you put the chin lube. else as soon as you take a small spin the stuck kerosene would fly out.. making your rims go black and the spray too would drip... clean it well.. wash it. dry it and then lube between the links.. the lube should go till the rings and not on the surface that will also reduce the chain noise..Last edited by theironhorse99; 02-12-2013, 03:11 PM."A good long ride can clear your mind, restore your faith, and use up a lot of fuel."
RE Bullet 1977 - Current
RX-100 1995 - Current
CBZ Classic 2003 - Current
Activa 2004 - Current
CBR 250R 2012 - Current
Ninja 650 2013 - Current.
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