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Re: KTM 200 Duke
Originally posted by dukist View PostThaks a lot bala.gg . Cleared the air on so many points .
Please, If any one could give reply for two points about the chai lube/spray..and how to keep the black fibre part of duke 200 clean.
Do We need to use all of these at once for chain as mentioned in the first post ?
Motul Chain Lube Road - 400 ml = Rs 510
Motul Chain Clean - 400 ml= Rs 480
OKS chain lube spray - 100 ml = Rs 140
dukist, you will only need to use one brand of lube(either OKS or Motul) at one time. Why would you mix two brands for a single application?
Motul is better(but not by a huge margin) than OKS, in that it keeps the chain lubricated for a bit longer. I have used Motul, OKS and Rolon and all three of them seem to work fine. Rolon dries really fast so much so that in a few hours the chain LOOKS dry, but if you touch it you'd realize it's pretty slimy
.
OKS is a bit fizzy and tends to be a bit 'unwieldy' while application. It tends to coagulate fast and you'd see droplets(or coagulates) dirtying the rim easily.
Also Motul may appear costly at initial consideration, but my experience tells that the size of can(which means the amount of lube you get per rupee) plus the fact that it lasts a bit longer than others means that it's the best deal. But if you are running short of cash then either OKS or rolon would do, since they cost around Rs 150(can size is smaller of course than motul)
Usually you'd need to clean the chain with the Motul chain cleaner(or plain WD 40 if you like). Just apply the cleaner on the chain and let the dirt drip down with it. If chain is very dirty, use a cloth(preferably an MF one, so that you don't have cloth fibers all over the chain) to wipe it clean. Then apply lube.
If the chain is not too dirty and you are in a hurry then you can skip the cleaning part sometimes, but it is recommended to clean it before applying lube. Dirt doesn't let the lube cling onto the chain optimally.
Performance wise I don't think there is a lot separating the three. The duke chain would anyway scream replacement at around 10K in any case even if you lube it religiously.
Hope it helpsThe hero always RIDES into the sunset!
My Touring Logs-
French Riviera
https://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/38345-biking-french-riviera.html
Scotland-
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...-3600-kms.html
France -Normandy and Paris on the CBR
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...adventure.html
KTM chronicles-
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...hronicles.html
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Re: KTM 200 Duke
---Thanks a lot doga . I got the point . Is there an optimal time frame to clean/lube chain and I guess I would need a paddock stand to apply or lube the chain,right ? or only if visible dirt appears over the chain .
---Apart from chain, what are the other things that need frequent attention?
---I have noticed that many a times especially shifting down from 4-3 or 3-2 gear, the gear doesn't engages and screen shows no gear and I have to press hard to get it engaged . Is it normal or something I should be worried about ? My bike has only done 180 Kms and I haven't noticed any kind of leakages and stuff . All oil levels appear to be normal .Last edited by dukist; 01-28-2014, 06:03 PM.READY TO RACE >>
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Re: KTM 200 Duke
A paddock stand is not essential, but it definitely helps in faster application of lube. If you don't have a stand, like me, you can move the bike around to cover the entire chain.Originally posted by dukist View Post---Thanks a lot doga . I got the point . Is there an optimal time frame to clean/lube chain and I guess I would need a paddock stand to apply or lube the chain,right ? or only if visible dirt appears over the chain .
---Apart from chain, what are the other things that need frequent attention?
---I have noticed that many a times especially shifting down from 4-3 or 3-2 gear, the gear doesn't engages and screen shows no gear and I have to press hard to get it engaged . Is it normal or something I should be worried about ? My bike has only done 180 Kms and I haven't noticed any kind of leakages and stuff . All oil levels appear to be normal .
Lube it after every 500Kms. Though you might be required to do it earlier depending on the road conditions/season. Monsoon requires more frequent cleaning/lubing. Same for bad dusty roads. Delhi roads, as far as I know are far better than the Mumbai ones so I don't think you'd end up with a dirty chain very frequently.
Yes that sometimes happens. Which oil are you using? I used to have it earlier with the mineral grade Motul oit I was using. The FS 7100 smoothened it out.
Also apply some grease on the roller bearings inside the rubber caps at the end of the connecting rod of the shifter.
The newer lots have a better(igus bearing ?) gearing apparatus if I am not wrong. These problems still there? surprising!!The hero always RIDES into the sunset!
My Touring Logs-
French Riviera
https://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/38345-biking-french-riviera.html
Scotland-
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...-3600-kms.html
France -Normandy and Paris on the CBR
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...adventure.html
KTM chronicles-
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...hronicles.html
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Re: KTM 200 Duke
I don't know which oil is inside because it's the factory's default oil that I am using as its only 150+ Kms old . Yes it's a problem and occurs very frequently if you don't shift firmly.Originally posted by Doga View PostA paddock stand is not essential, but it definitely helps in faster application of lube. If you don't have a stand, like me, you can move the bike around to cover the entire chain.
Lube it after every 500Kms. Though you might be required to do it earlier depending on the road conditions/season. Monsoon requires more frequent cleaning/lubing. Same for bad dusty roads. Delhi roads, as far as I know are far better than the Mumbai ones so I don't think you'd end up with a dirty chain very frequently.
Yes that sometimes happens. Which oil are you using? I used to have it earlier with the mineral grade Motul oit I was using. The FS 7100 smoothened it out.
Also apply some grease on the roller bearings inside the rubber caps at the end of the connecting rod of the shifter.
The newer lots have a better(igus bearing ?) gearing apparatus if I am not wrong. These problems still there? surprising!!
I can lube/spray at the sprocket end while moving the bike ?
Thanks again.READY TO RACE >>
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Re: KTM 200 Duke
Yes. There. Plus on the inside of the chain too, spanning the region below the swingarm. The sprocket area would have the lube sprayed to the outer layer of the chain.Originally posted by dukist View PostI don't know which oil is inside because it's the factory's default oil that I am using as its only 150+ Kms old . Yes it's a problem and occurs very frequently if you don't shift firmly.
I can lube/spray at the sprocket end while moving the bike ?
Thanks again.
You must be running the DTSI oil then which comes default from factory. Change to semi synthetic Motul(3100 4T 20W50) if possible and available now or may be at 500 KM. Then again the same thing at 2000-2500 KM or so. Stick with it till 4.5K-5K . Then change to Motul 7100 FS 20W50. Thereafter every 5K kms as per manual.
Mineral/semi synthetic oils are coarser than fully synthetic ones and ensure proper bedding of moving components(piston ring etc) inside the engine during the initial run in period. The same reason gear shifts can be a bit clunky initially(since the oil is not as smooth). Then after 5K one can switch to FS which would ensure longer drain intervals and better gear changes.
If finances do not permit and you are not too finicky about the entire bedding process, then do a change at around 2.5K and then straight away at 5K to FS.
The above has been part my experience and part gut feeling and part borrowed internet gyan. Definitely not definite. You can stick to the manual and continue with the default Bajaj DTSI if you so wish. The gear shifts might/might not become smooth eventually
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
I was browsing the KTM website and noticed something strange.
The wheelbase in the Indian duke 200 page is 1361 while the European ones had 1367 listed. Is it because of the ABS?
ABS must be the reason for the extra weight of 4 kilos for sure(without fuel) as the Indian one is 125 and the Europeans are 129 Kgs.
ABS was not mentioned on the pages, but the pics clearly show the ABS assembly on the rear tyre.The hero always RIDES into the sunset!
My Touring Logs-
French Riviera
https://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/38345-biking-french-riviera.html
Scotland-
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...-3600-kms.html
France -Normandy and Paris on the CBR
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...adventure.html
KTM chronicles-
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...hronicles.html
Comment
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Re: KTM 200 Duke
Thanks once again Doga , noted everything, is very helpful.Originally posted by Doga View PostYes. There. Plus on the inside of the chain too, spanning the region below the swingarm. The sprocket area would have the lube sprayed to the outer layer of the chain.
You must be running the DTSI oil then which comes default from factory. Change to semi synthetic Motul(3100 4T 20W50) if possible and available now or may be at 500 KM. Then again the same thing at 2000-2500 KM or so. Stick with it till 4.5K-5K . Then change to Motul 7100 FS 20W50. Thereafter every 5K kms as per manual.
Mineral/semi synthetic oils are coarser than fully synthetic ones and ensure proper bedding of moving components(piston ring etc) inside the engine during the initial run in period. The same reason gear shifts can be a bit clunky initially(since the oil is not as smooth). Then after 5K one can switch to FS which would ensure longer drain intervals and better gear changes.
If finances do not permit and you are not too finicky about the entire bedding process, then do a change at around 2.5K and then straight away at 5K to FS.
The above has been part my experience and part gut feeling and part borrowed internet gyan. Definitely not definite. You can stick to the manual and continue with the default Bajaj DTSI if you so wish. The gear shifts might/might not become smooth eventually
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
I was browsing the KTM website and noticed something strange.
The wheelbase in the Indian duke 200 page is 1361 while the European ones had 1367 listed. Is it because of the ABS?
ABS must be the reason for the extra weight of 4 kilos for sure(without fuel) as the Indian one is 125 and the Europeans are 129 Kgs.
ABS was not mentioned on the pages, but the pics clearly show the ABS assembly on the rear tyre.READY TO RACE >>
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Re: KTM 200 Duke
Hi I had a query about the rev/rpm limit mine is locked at 9,500, I recently finished my first service and when I asked the mechanic at the svc about raising the limit to 10,500 he said he couldn't do it and if he did I would face warranty issues are the new bikes limited to 9,500.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using xBhp Connect mobile app
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Re: My KTM Duke 200 (White) review-cum-experience
[QUOTE=splus;969844]I would disagree.
It doesn't really matter if the engine is 50 cc or 5,000 cc - it matters more how that engine works and how it's ridden.
300V is simply a finer oil which is suitable for more precise and high revving engines, regardless of cc. Heck, there are 50 cc high revving and high power engines that are faster than our Dukes.
In a same way, there are 1000 cc engines that are low revving, not a performance engines, and they don't need a fine oil such as 300V.
And it also depends how you use your bike - if you're riding a high revving 1000 cc engine only in low and mid rpms then yeah, you could get by with using a 7100. But if your friend is riding his CBR 1000 the way that bike is supposed to be ridden then he would be MUCH better off with 300V than 7100.
Duke has a high revving engine, unfortunately limited to "only" 10,500 rpm (it could easily rev much higher), and IF ridden often in higher rpms, then, in my opinion, 300V would be more suitable than 7100. But 7100 is more than ok as well. And if you're riding mostly in low and mid rpms then probably no need to go for 300V.
And as the above post says, the difference in price between 300V and 7100 isn't much.
Hey 300V comes in 2 grades n they are 15W50 n 10W40.....So which 1 would be the best for the crazy hot n humid mumbai climate???Last edited by sanjana k; 01-30-2014, 03:29 AM.
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Re: KTM 200 Duke
Probably he has no idea about setting the gear-shift-change-rpm-flasher ( it is not rev limiter in anyway, it does not mechanically limit the rpms, it's for the riders aid to let him know that she or he should change the gear @RPM1), you can adjust it without worrying about anything . It's given in the manual how to set it, just go through it once.Originally posted by KoushikDC View PostHi I had a query about the rev/rpm limit mine is locked at 9,500, I recently finished my first service and when I asked the mechanic at the svc about raising the limit to 10,500 he said he couldn't do it and if he did I would face warranty issues are the new bikes limited to 9,500.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using xBhp Connect mobile app
RPM1(flashing red light)-- Hold the Mode button for around 6 seconds until you can see rpm1 flashing on the screen and use Mode/Set as + / - to increase or decrease it's value.
RPM2(Constant red light)-- Hold the Set button for about 5-6 seconds until rpm2 flashes on the screen and adjust same as rpm1 step.Last edited by dukist; 01-30-2014, 04:00 PM.READY TO RACE >>
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Re: KTM 200 Duke
no im not talking about the gear shift light, the rpm is limited to 9,500, i have revved the bike and confirmed it, it does not go beyond 9,500 rpm.Originally posted by dukist View PostProbably he has no idea about setting the gear-shift-change-rpm-flasher ( it is not rev limiter in anyway, it does not mechanically limit the rpms, it's for the riders aid to let him know that he should change the gear @RPM1), you can adjust it without worrying about anything . It's given in the manual how to set it, just go through it once.
RPM1(flashing red light)-- Hold the Mode button for around 6 seconds until you can see rpm1 flashing on the screen and use Mode/Set as + / - to increase or decrease it's value.
RPM2(Constant red light)-- Hold the Set button for about 5-6 seconds until rpm2 flashes on the screen and adjust same as rpm1 step.
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Re: KTM 200 Duke
Whaat? Are you sure? How did you notice that? The rpm bars are not shooting beyond 9500?Originally posted by KoushikDC View Postno im not talking about the gear shift light, the rpm is limited to 9,500, i have revved the bike and confirmed it, it does not go beyond 9,500 rpm.The hero always RIDES into the sunset!
My Touring Logs-
French Riviera
https://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/38345-biking-french-riviera.html
Scotland-
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...-3600-kms.html
France -Normandy and Paris on the CBR
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...adventure.html
KTM chronicles-
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...hronicles.html
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Re: KTM 200 Duke
Yes i noticed it when i turn the ignition on when the mfd does the startup check i noticed that the rpm bars were lighter beyond 9,500 rpm and recently confirmed it by revving the bike.Originally posted by Doga View PostWhaat? Are you sure? How did you notice that? The rpm bars are not shooting beyond 9500?
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Re: KTM 200 Duke
That's strange. I can confirm on my bike at least on startup, it goes till the end of rpm-bars . Get it checked by a different service center.Originally posted by KoushikDC View PostYes i noticed it when i turn the ignition on when the mfd does the startup check i noticed that the rpm bars were lighter beyond 9,500 rpm and recently confirmed it by revving the bike.
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
Haha,, I wasn't being sexist there man, edited it :P.Originally posted by wallpapers123 View PostDon't be a sexist man..there could be girls riding around on dukes..:P
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkREADY TO RACE >>
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