Re: KTM 200 Duke

Hi guys, I recently checked the battery and stator coil connector with multimeter and observed the following readings:

Battery readings were 13.1 or 13.2 volts on idle and around 13.7 or 13.8 volts @ 6k to 7k rpms (never did it cross 14 volts once)

Stator coil readings were 1.1 Ohms @ pin1 and pin2 and 1.1 or 1.2 Ohms (was toggling) @ pin1 and pin3.

There has been no low battery warning on console in the past neither now.

Experts such as [MENTION=39214]B7ACKTHORN[/MENTION] , [MENTION=16602]s1d[/MENTION] and other fellow bikers can please suggest me if the stator coil and battery are in good condition or needs replacement. Both are 3.4 years and 24k kms old and they both are stock and never been replaced in the past.

Thanks Srvn

Re: KTM 200 Duke

1)No it was never cleaned.Bike was bought at Feb and completed 4000 Kms on odo.ITs there since day 1

2)Same Bought in Feb

3)No blinking anywhere,No error signs at all

Re: KTM 200 Duke

At 3.4 years, I would say that the battery is towards the last leg of its useful life and probably good for another 6~8 months.
As for the readings, they seem ok for a 3.4yr old battery. The factory recommended specs are :

Voltage at 5000rpm : 13.5 to 15V

Stator coil checking: (am sure the temp at which you checked wouldn't have been 20C , so that reading of 1.1ohm is ok)
Pin 1 - Pin 2 : <= 1 ohm at 20C
Pin 1 - Pin 3 : <=1 ohm at 20C
Pin 1 to battery -ve : infinity

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I did check by riding constantly at around 15kmph in second and did not notice any hiccup, just the exhaust sputter which is normal. I can't say for sure if what you are experiencing is normal or not without riding your bike. Maybe just get the air filter cleaned since its been 4000km.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Hey, @Srvn, though fellow members have provided good insights, to keep it simple. The measured battery voltage should be lesser than charging voltage should be lesser than 15.5v with the engine spinning at around 5k RPM. Resistance method is a good check, this battery method is a good one which ascertains the conditions of the stator pretty much easily. The readings I've mentioned are for the Duke 390. This more or less is pretty much across the board for the current Dukes

12.3 and below the battery is low
12.6 to 12.7 battery is full.
13.0 to 13.2 fully charged.

Check the battery with with ignition/electricals turned off, the battery must have a voltage readout of about 12.6 min and upwards lesser than 12.3 the battery isn't getting charged sufficiently.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM 200 Duke

All automobiles operate on 12Vdc.
Doesn't that imply that the battery is in good shape when it's between 12 to 13 Vdc.?
Also since all electronics are ment to be operated at 12Vdc doesn't it imply that providing 13 Vdc all the time may bring down the life of the components.?

Re: KTM 200 Duke

here is some general useful information: (for more specific readings refer the service manual of that particular vehicle)

How to Test a Car Battery | Battery Care | Autobatteries.com

the electronics are designed to operate (and draw the required current/voltage) accordingly.
for example, you might have a 5V 2A mobile charger, but do you know that the mobiles themselves have a built in circuit that lets them draw only the current that it was designed for and not the full 2A. (example, asus zenfone 5 doesn't draw more than 1.3A even if you use a 2A charger/powerbank)
That's it for the battery folks...

Now coming to my visit to the svc today.. I was having a front brake issue where the lever would pulse and the handle shudder when I applied the front brake. This was going on for a couple of weeks. I knew it was a warped/bent rotor. Headed to the svc and they said the same.
We thought to have the disc repaired at a local shop, and that repair guy (wheel truing shop) did not do a good job. I was really pissed because he refused to unmount the disc and repair it on a lathe/hammer it out by measuring runout using a dial indicator. He just mounted the wheel on that balancing thingy and hammered the disc at various spot by 'feeling' it with his hand. I've learnt that arguing or telling such people doesn't work, so i just kept quiet (after the first request to do it on a lathe).
As expected this 'fix' did not fix the issue, and i was frustrated and told them to replace the disc. Was waiting for the part to arrive.
Meanwhile since the past couple of days, the speedo was having a mind on its own showing random speed readings. I told them to replace the speed sensor and they agreed.

So after a couple of weeks, today they had the part in stock. Went in and had the disc rotor (paid out of my pocket Rs1665 including labor/tax)and the speedo sensor replaced (under warranty, normally costs Rs.417).
The braking is now back to its best behavior ! And they threw in a set of front brake pads for free . Almost 21k km now and not a penny spent on brake pads but two front rotors replaced (one under warranty when bike was a couple of months old and the second one now paid out of my pocket)

I am still wondering what could have caused that rotor damage. They said probably some accident or bumping and refused to do it under warranty, but my bike has never been in an accident. The brake pads weren't worn unevenly plus they had around half the pad material left. I have taken the old rotor back home and tried to check it on a flat surface but wasn't able to really spot a bend. I'll try to have it checked and machined on a lathe and keep it aside as a spare.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

[MENTION=16602]s1d[/MENTION] i will have to check it to svc.It kind of stutters at low speed.How one would feel when its gonna hit from main to reserve.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

A frnd of mine had jerky ride in lower gears as you have mentioned. Get the fuel pump checked once for the pressure of fuel flow.
He replaced the fuel pump and everything was fine afterwards in his bike.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

So I start the bike to warm up before I leave for work this morning and I noticed smoke emanating from below the tank and exhaust bent pipe area. At first I thought that someone had thrown water on the engine and it is steam. On closer inspection it dawned that it was fuel and when I craned my head up to check the fuel tank I noticed small drops of petrol hitting the frame and the underside of the tank or what ever it is, I'm assuming that it is the bottom of the fuel tank when you glance up from below, absolutely wet with fuel.

This confused the hell out of me. I shut the engine and parked the bike and took an auto to work. I had noticed yesterday evening that my left RVM was broken and circulating freely on its ball joint. I had also smelt petrol but ignored it.

Did someone dropped my bike and punctured or broke my fuel tank? Is it possible? What could be the cause of this leakage? Could this leakage be from the supply pipe to the injector?

Will take her to the service station tomorrow.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Thanks a ton for the info guys!

I was facing a similar jerking/stuttering on my motorcycle past 3 weeks, which is 3.4 years and 24K kms old.

I routinely drive at 15 to 20 kph in second gear inside the Tech park that is good 1.5kms which gives sufficient time for engine to warm up in the night.

Following were observations:

When tried to hold steady speeds (ofc with steady throttle) around 15 to 20 kph in second gear (around 2.5k to 3k rpm), bike feels like it is running out of fuel and begins to feel like it is goin to die (jerk/stutter) and with a moderate amount of extra twist of throttle, bike comes to feel normal without any signs of jerk anymore (when rpm reaches a little past 3.5k rpm)

Also was simultaneously getting MIL (engine check light in common terms) blinking on the console, MIL blink pattern was one long and seven short blinks, checked online for blink code and it represented a Lambda (oxygen/o2) sensor malfunction error (Please note it usually takes a cold engine around 3-4 kms to show up MIL code and then it stays on)

Action taken: Took it to my regular svc; Auto service, they read the error readings and confirmed that it is the o2 sensor malfunction error and tried to test the o2 sensor on my bike with a different sensor from another D200 and voila!, no jerking/stutering and no MIL error codes. Mech decided to clean my o2 sensor and give it a try, with my old sensor back on both jerking and MIL code was back. This confirmed my o2 sensor had gone faulty. A new o2 sensor was out of stock, it took 6 days for the stock to arrive. With the new o2 sensor there is no jerking/stuttering at low rpms. Total bill: 2.7k for the new sensor and around 400 bucks as labour.

--
Srvn

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Fuel leaks are only two possibilities, either the in line fuel filter tubes are loose, or ill fitted post service or you have a leak in your fuel pump assembly at the bottom. There is a rubber O ring IIRC, at the bottom of the fuel pump assembly, if that is warped or a goner then you have this leak. Start first with the basics such as in line fuel filter, hoses, clamps and then proceed to fuel pump finally if the issue isn't resolved.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM 200 Duke

2700rs for the O2 sensor!!! did you see the printed mrp on the cover?
400 bucks labor for screwing it in!

I had the speedo sensor replaced today under warranty, damn.. it normally costs 417rs!
My dealer (not ktm) is offering an extended 3yr warranty for 1500rs, I probably should avail that !

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Which is the best engine oil to use in my d200 ?

Re: KTM 200 Duke

On my duke, I cannot really make out the coolant level in its tank using the markers. Is there any other way to recognize it?
Recently I went for a ride of about 350kms and when i stopped i realized that there was white spots all over my engine and my tank. It was the coolent droplets that had dried . I never got a high coolent temperature alarm though. This usually happens when i ride for long durations. Is there a solution to this?

Now I can't figure out of I need to top up the coolent and how much to put.