Re: KTM 200 Duke

When you give the bike for repair, make sure all your complaints are written on job card (make sure you write uneven front brake pad wear, unstable handling since previous steering stem adjustment).. write it yourself if need be.
Indeed the pad wear is very abnormal, probably the outer pistons are not retracting and stuck causing the pad to be in constant contact with disc. Ask them to service the caliper (which usually involves removing the calipers, removing those pistons, cleaning with diesel/petrol, replacing the piston seals/o-ring and putting the pistons back in.. followed by new brake pads and fresh brake fluid (after removing all the old stuff out).
1. Why is the chassis being replaced ? Accident ? Am not sure about the procedure, but the svc or their broker contact should have the info. Or check the transport website for any details.
2. It's probably the cone-set i.e. steering stem race and bearings. When they replace it, make sure it is installed correctly. .sometimes these mechanics don't bother to see if the race is seated correctly and over a few days it will again start causing problems.
3. What do you mean by 'reset'? I haven't seen them 'reset' an ecu, they only clear the DTC's/memory and is a 2 min job using their handheld diag tool. Once this is done, let the bike idle for at-least 5~10min without operating the throttle. If you try to ride a ktm that's just had the dtc/memory cleared, it will sputter and even die out when you release the clutch in gear during the first 10 min or so. Hence let it idle for 10 min for it to relearn the parameters.
4. Your mileage is perfectly ok.
5. The only way to clear your doubt is to be around while the work is being done If you again leave your bike, then you again end up with a doubt. Now since your bike has only clocked 12k km, I'd say leave the throttle body and injectors as it is for now, you can get them cleaned again at 25k in your presence. Just so you know, my ride is close to 25k km (and another friend's at similar figures) and we've never had the throttle body cleaned so far in two years.

And finally when you collect the bike after repairs, do a test ride and if not satisfied make them work to resolve the issues. If you feel it's all ok, then make a note on the job card saying 'under observation for repairs done, and i will ride the bike for a week and confirm if the issues reported are resolved' . Put this comment in and take a photocopy and keep it.

Just noticed the model year and so i assume most of this work is being done under warranty unless it has met with an accident. iirc you had earlier complained about rust ?

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Yes, you remember correctly, chassis is being replaced for rusting. I am still fighting for the rear suspension change.

Also, these guys do not write specific things on the job card even after asking them to do so. Also, do you get a copy of the job card? cause i never got any during the last 4 services. To be honest, i am quite tired now of running around after the bike to the ASC as i have very little idea of these stuff and even after reading/watching videos i still cant get most of the stuff

Re: KTM 200 Duke

You have to insist they note down, it's your right and their duty to note it down. Be firm.
They do not give you a copy by default, but I make it a point to enter my comments sign it and then take a photocopy (if not, you could just use your mobile to scan/take a pic).. these guys usually have a multifunction printer and they give me a copy of the job card (ofcourse with a question 'why saaar'? and i simply say, i like to keep a record of my service history) a good rapport helps.
You will take time to understand some stuff.. and this understanding comes from eagerness and curiosity to learn more about motorcycles. I've taken days off during college and work to sit around a bike that's being fixed up.. i just love hanging around the shop, watching, learning and doing stuff though the svc usually do not allow you to do stuff, but observation and correlating it with a workshop manual or a how to diy from reputed sources helps you learn.

It's good you are getting the chassis changed, but I hope these guys don't screw it up. Sometimes it's better to live with a bit of rust and get it treated rather than go for a complete transplant. I've seen chassis being changed on the ktm's a couple of times (too many crashed bikes at the svc i go to) and a well trained mechanic should be able to do it. I'd still stay around and keep an eye.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Glazed wear can be caused by only two issues, but since this is a fixed caliper, we can narrow it down to either the rotor slightly warped towards one side, which causes the wear of the pad or the pistons inside the caliper are not retracting as they are supposed to do. When a piston "sticks" one part of the brake pad are in contact with the running rotor and causes glazing, and a pad that wears very fast, exactly what you've been facing. Remove the pads, degrease them, install new pads.

After done with the pad replacement, jack the front wheel of the bike to a paddock stand, rotate the wheels and observe for any high pitched squeal or rubbing of the pads, you shouldn't hear any abnormal high pitched squeal or excessive rubbing of the pads. If yes, check the rotor for warpage and caliper piston.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Funny thing is, I got in touch with my ASC head and as per him uneven wear is okay and all he will do is change the brake pads, so I didn't take it over today. Will do it together with chassis work and ball racer/cone set.

Blackthorn, I believe you mean, putting the front on a paddock and rotating the wheel freely. Will ask them to do so.
Problem is that these guys consider themselves F1 level technicians and they don't need to work on something to know if it's bad. It's more like they experiment on our bikes. I say there is a problem, they have an explanation ready without checking. Just replace everything and the entire bike is a consumable.

I had a question, I use the brakes a lot less, depending mostly on engine braking for 60% of the time. I am a sedate driver and most of the time I keep it within 5000-6000 rpm. Is too much engine braking bad?

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Looking at the pictures you have posted (assuming they were taken without pressing the brake levers) it is clear that the pistons are stuck. The inner ones seem jammed, which in turn is sending all the fluid pressure to the outer ones which in turn pushes only the outer pad against the disc resulting in that wear pattern. just look at the pic carefully. the correct way to fix this has been explained by me earlier. if you only replace pads (and try to push the piston back in), it may or may not resolve the issue.
if you want a 100% guaranteed fix, then let them do a caliper service. It hardly takes 20 minutes to do. And the salty air seems to be the root cause of this, causing some minor rust on the caliper parts preventing them from moving as designed to. There will normally be negligible difference between pad wear under normal operation. I've seen the pads on my d200 and can so confirm that this is not normal.
If your rotor is warped, then you will feel a shudder at the handlebar on applying the brake. I've had this issue (not visible to naked eye) and the rotor was replaced, the pads did not have uneven wear even though i rode with a warped rotor for 4k km.
I've had the rotor replaced twice and the rear brake caliper greased once, and am pretty sure what the fix is in your case. The front is a fixed caliper while the rear is a floating caliper (i.e. has pistons on only one side, while the caliper itself moves on a sliding pin for the other side to squeeze both pads against the disc. a rusty un-greased caliper pin might be an additional cause for uneven wear on the rear apart from sticky pistons)

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Hey S1d, I experience this shudder kind of thing when i apply my front bakes.This is what i previously described as a click(my bad). So could there be an issue with my front brakes. Also by "rotor"are you meaning the disc?

Also, yesterday a friend of mine pointed out a problem with my bike.. The front tyre has been replaced in the opposite direction. So the wheel has been revolving with the tread on the opposite direction. He is a bullet owner and he says it could be the reason for my below said problem
Is he right? I have been driving with this wrong tyre treads for almost 6 months now so how could this affect my tyre and should i take it to some MRF showroom to get it sorted or the SVC guys will itself do it.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

First start by getting the tire mounted the way it is supposed to.
Even after that if you face issues, especially the shudder and pulsing in the brake lever (it will be like the lever is pushing back when you press it) it is most likely a warped rotor. A new rotor costs ~1500rs. And yes rotor = disc plate.
You could also try to get the rotor skimmed (i.e. remove bit of material) at a lathe or machine shop but ensure the resurfaced rotor is at-least of specified minimum thickness (the value is stamped on the rotor) i.e. don't remove too much material. I dint want to go thru the trouble of this and simply replaced the rotor considering it din't cost much.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

I own a 2016 February manufactured Duke 200. I have three doubts.

1. I recently went for a 300 km trip and when i finished the trip i noticed a red fluid leaking around the engine head (from that small connecting gap b/w the head and main body part). Should i be worried about this?

2. Ever since i got the bike, it is much difficult for me to apply the rear brake as it is positioned on the same level or higher level with respect to the rider foot peg. Is it only my duke or are all duke's configured in this manner?

3. What is the ideal time interval to lube the chain?

-Thank you.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

1. nothing major, its common occurrence on a lot of ktm's. that's a minor oil leak from the valve cover gasket. you can wipe the oil with a cloth and continue using it until next service, the oil leak will be very minimal and wont cause any issues. they usually remove the valve cover and use a gasket sealant and put it back on. that should arrest the leak.

2. Yes that's how the rear brake lever is, you will get used to it. Good braking technique is using more of the front (80%) in normal dry conditions. In wet or sandy/gravel surfaces the rear is put to more use.

3. Ideally every 500-700 km. again depends on usage of the bike and the condition of chain. you can use simple gear oil to do the lubrication, no need to spend on expensive chain lubes.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Engine braking is there because it help one use use the engine's vacuum which is the engine braking to slow the bike. Engine braking is helpful when coasting downhill in lower to mid lower gears. Mind you, engine braking is the same that causes the rear wheel to lock when the transmission is spinning faster than the engine, you know, the infamous rear wheel lock when shifting to lower gears.

But that aside, use the engine braking to the maximum potential, but don't over do it, it's just unnecessary strain on the engine, throttle opening and closing. Try practicing the 70% or 60% front and rest of the percent rear, this would help you improve even more on your braking techniques.

Yes, jacking up the bike on a paddock, but oh well, some things are too much ask in SVC, isn't it.


Coming from bottom up, there are no set intervals to clean the chain, you might lube your chain today, tomorrow it might rain, your chain gets all effed up, what do you do? Curse yourself for taking the bike out, double curse yourself and start cleaning the chain, again.

On a good day, keep an interval of 400 to 500 kays max or even less depending on how the chain is. Don't go by the fixed 500 KM chain lube rule, visually inspect the chain, each bike's usage varies and so does the lube requirements, if you observe the chain has less lube, then go ahead lube it. Just remember, don't overlube.

Rear brake pedal and gear levers are adjustable, there are lock nuts below the both the pedal which provide adjustments to an extent.

Should you be worried so much? Well, not really, it's a known issue. Take it to your SVC, get the valve cover removed, degrease it, apply a loctite, and install a new gasket, torque them bolts properly, you're done.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Hey guys,

Need some input on this.
I own a duke 200 and the svc guys tell me that my front disc has a dent.
Besides, the svc does not have the front disc in stock.

Alternately a friend suggests to use a 390 disc. Some spacer bolt and bush will be needed too but it works fine.
The svc guys tell me that they will do it for me however my meter reading will become inaccurate once I do it.

Will this happen?????

Re: KTM 200 Duke

If they don't have stock, ask them to place an order and get it. As simple as that.
Don't do any juggad.
And IIRC, older duke 200's had a 280mm disc while from 2015 onwards it's a 300mm front disc. Get the correct one.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

So today I accidentally cranked the engine when the console was in the boot-up sequence. The bike started just fine.

When do you guys press the start button normally? Immediately after turning the key on , i.e. during console boot up, or after the console has finished booting?

Re: KTM 200 Duke

After console bootup. Coz while its in process the fuel pump too is booting up. The sound during bootup is from fuel pump and its advisable to not crank till entire console is done booting.