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  • Originally posted by hunkofgals View Post
    after the service the exhaust note subsides and within few kms it comes back to normal and the more miles the better and louder will be the sound
    .
    whirring noise from the engine head ?
    .
    the rear brake action play isnt that good , u need to get it adjusted in the SVC
    I was told by the svc that both front and rear brake play can't be changed at all at the svc. It comes pre calibrated from the factory. Now if they can't do or they have been instructed not to do it(probably because if an overenthusiastic guy gets his play on the front lever almost zero, he might end up with a wheel lock and crash), is something I am not sure about
    The hero always RIDES into the sunset!

    My Touring Logs-
    French Riviera
    https://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/38345-biking-french-riviera.html
    Scotland-
    http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...-3600-kms.html
    France -Normandy and Paris on the CBR
    http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...adventure.html
    KTM chronicles-
    http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...hronicles.html

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Doga View Post
      I was told by the svc that both front and rear brake play can't be changed at all at the svc. It comes pre calibrated from the factory. Now if they can't do or they have been instructed not to do it(probably because if an overenthusiastic guy gets his play on the front lever almost zero, he might end up with a wheel lock and crash), is something I am not sure about
      "Play" can't be adjusted in a hydraulic disk brake system. All that you can change is the position of the lever. The only corrective measures possible in the braking system itself are replacing the pads and bleeding any air from the system. If the action of the rear brake is spongy or weak, you might have it bled to make sure there is no air.

      Hydraulic brakes work differently from cable-operated drum brakes. With a hydraulic system, whatever force you input at the lever is transmitted exactly to the pads, because fluids cannot compress. If you're constantly locking your brakes, you need to readjust yourself, not the bike. This is why experienced riders, even on extremely powerful bikes like the Hayabusa, often use only one or two fingers on the front brake; it is easier to modulate the pressure you are applying, and you are less likely to grab the lever with your full hand in an emergency.

      In this case, with a rear brake that does not do much, there are a few things to consider: First, the rear is only capable of providing a maximum of 30% of total braking. This is due to the weight transfer the bike undergoes under braking. The rear master cylinder may be designed not to transmit much. Also, since the rear is foot-operated, it may be designed to be a bit less sensitive simply because your feet aren't as precise as your hands. Second, if the pads aren't properly bedded, they may not be doing their job properly. They could either be glazed, or not fully worn-in. Lastly, it may be possible that the lever is not properly adjusted. If the rear pedal is set too low, you may have to reach too far to get to the "meat" of the brake's effectiveness. Check the position, and adjust so the pedal is just under your toe, or just next to it, so you don't have to lift your foot too far to get on top of it, or don't have to drop too much to find it.
      ATGATT: All The Gear, All The Time!

      Current bike: Yamaha XT1200Z Super Tenere

      Put the phone away, put your helmet on, and ride!

      Scooters are like fat girls: fun to ride, but embarrassing if your friends see you with one.

      Comment


      • Question time: is it same on your duke?

        1.All the indicators on the handle bar are back-lit ? In mine pass switch indicator (near Low -> high Tactile switch) is not back-lit ,

        2.Petrol tank-cap after locking it (after that click sound) ,I can push it little more .it still got some room inside around 30mm and bounces back .

        I cant find another duke near-by ,so cant check them personnelly ..

        Comment


        • Originally posted by vidy View Post
          Question time: is it same on your duke?

          1.All the indicators on the handle bar are back-lit ? In mine pass switch indicator (near Low -> high Tactile switch) is not back-lit ,

          2.Petrol tank-cap after locking it (after that click sound) ,I can push it little more .it still got some room inside around 30mm and bounces back .

          I cant find another duke near-by ,so cant check them personnelly ..
          Don't worry. Same in my bike too. BUt 30mm?? more like 3 mm or something. You have to be forceful with the fuel lock. Doesn't give a positive feel after locking.The cap comes up and settles a bit above after locking.

          Originally posted by The Mountain View Post
          "Play" can't be adjusted in a hydraulic disk brake system. All that you can change is the position of the lever. The only corrective measures possible in the braking system itself are replacing the pads and bleeding any air from the system. If the action of the rear brake is spongy or weak, you might have it bled to make sure there is no air.

          Hydraulic brakes work differently from cable-operated drum brakes. With a hydraulic system, whatever force you input at the lever is transmitted exactly to the pads, because fluids cannot compress. If you're constantly locking your brakes, you need to readjust yourself, not the bike. This is why experienced riders, even on extremely powerful bikes like the Hayabusa, often use only one or two fingers on the front brake; it is easier to modulate the pressure you are applying, and you are less likely to grab the lever with your full hand in an emergency.

          .
          Yeah I have read about the bernoulli's principle back in school. That is fine. But there is a free play in both the brakes. ONly thing that it cannot be adjusted. I can't really figure out why? Or may be I need to understand what exactly will increasing or decreasing free play on the brakes change in the brake system.

          PS : I have been observing for the past 3-4 days that the bike doesn't pull positively in 4th gear when I upshift from 3. That positive nudge and relentless pull is somewhat missing. IT happens when I rev the bike till 7500 + and shift from 1st, 2nd and 3rd. yesterday evening I was shocked that I had pinned the throttle in fourth gear and the bike nowhere near the speeds it usually reaches. I completely roll the throttle back while shifting up/down(at least I try to). But when I roll back the throttle(after I have had the loss of pull in 4th gear instance) and then pull again, the problem somewhat disappears with the bike pulling almost cleanly.
          Are the quick shifts the culprit? Or may be I am shifting incorrectly?

          Where else can the problem be?
          1)ECU : wrong mapping?
          2)Engine : nearing seizure ?
          3)Chain too slack : it's been sometime since I tightened it(more than 700 kms surely. BUt the issue is not there in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gears)
          4)Air intake :air flow problem or airfilter clogged?
          The hero always RIDES into the sunset!

          My Touring Logs-
          French Riviera
          https://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/38345-biking-french-riviera.html
          Scotland-
          http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...-3600-kms.html
          France -Normandy and Paris on the CBR
          http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...adventure.html
          KTM chronicles-
          http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...hronicles.html

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Doga View Post
            I have been observing for the past 3-4 days that the bike doesn't pull positively in 4th gear when I upshift from 3. That positive nudge and relentless pull is somewhat missing. IT happens when I rev the bike till 7500 + and shift from 1st, 2nd and 3rd. yesterday evening I was shocked that I had pinned the throttle in fourth gear and the bike nowhere near the speeds it usually reaches. I completely roll the throttle back while shifting up/down(at least I try to). But when I roll back the throttle(after I have had the loss of pull in 4th gear instance) and then pull again, the problem somewhat disappears with the bike pulling almost cleanly.
            Are the quick shifts the culprit? Or may be I am shifting incorrectly?

            Where else can the problem be?
            1)ECU : wrong mapping?
            2)Engine : nearing seizure ?
            3)Chain too slack : it's been sometime since I tightened it(more than 700 kms surely. BUt the issue is not there in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gears)
            4)Air intake :air flow problem or airfilter clogged?

            I too felt the same. I even mentioned it to the SVC guys. He had a test ride and said its all great and there's no problem.
            It couldn't have been the chain slack coz I have been getting it tightened regularly.
            ECU - Doubt it. Mapping is probably not changed so much.
            I suspect the Air intake. This had not been cleaned in the service and I strongly suspect this to be the culprit. going to the SVC tomorrow. Will try and get the filter cleaned.

            I also feel my Front brake has become slightly spongy. Need to check the pads.
            Live to ride.. ride to forget..


            Ignorance is an excuse, stupidity isn't

            Comment


            • Khrrr sound from front wheel

              Hi follow duke riders,

              I did not ride my bike for over a week...

              Yesterday I noticed a very low kharrrr. sound from the front of the bike.

              Do you think it is because of not riding the bike or is there lack of lubrication near the front disc area??

              Anyone faced the same problem here?
              The best alarm clock is sunshine on chrome.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by devil_rider View Post
                Hi follow duke riders,

                I did not ride my bike for over a week...

                Yesterday I noticed a very low kharrrr. sound from the front of the bike.

                Do you think it is because of not riding the bike or is there lack of lubrication near the front disc area??

                Anyone faced the same problem here?

                i think dust has settled on the disc and the disc pads
                just wipe the area with a damp/wet cloth and ur done

                even i had same problem
                FaceBook Id - Phaneendra Ch

                http://https://www.facebook.com/MightyDoc

                Comment


                • Folks,

                  From the experiences so far, it doesnt appear that Duke 200 is the best bike around. I suspect that 1-2 years down the line, the bike will be exposed and its performance will be no where near the Ninja 250R, which happens to be the first of this kind of a venture by Bajaj.
                  However, I hope for the best for the buyers of Duke, that they dont run into many technical problems with the bike in the future.

                  -Ashutosh

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by ashutosh_x View Post
                    Folks,

                    From the experiences so far, it doesnt appear that Duke 200 is the best bike around. I suspect that 1-2 years down the line, the bike will be exposed and its performance will be no where near the Ninja 250R, which happens to be the first of this kind of a venture by Bajaj.
                    However, I hope for the best for the buyers of Duke, that they dont run into many technical problems with the bike in the future.

                    -Ashutosh
                    And I hope no one is putting a gun to your head and forcing you to buy one.

                    Thanks for the wishes.
                    Last edited by NikhilB; 07-06-2012, 06:20 PM.
                    I like 'em Naked

                    Blah Blah Blah!

                    Reason is not automatic. Those who choose not to recognise it, can't be conquered by it.
                    - Ayn Rand, in 'Atlas Shrugged'

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Janesh.J View Post
                      Cost of engine oil,coolant,chain lube,KTM spare parts,crash guards,KTM Powerparts and power wear
                      Engine Oil:
                      Motul 7100 20W50 - 1 liter= Rs 725
                      Bajaj DTS-i 10,000 - 1 liter = Rs 414
                      Motul 300V Factory Line - 1 liter = Rs 985

                      Coolant:
                      Motul Motocool Expert - 1 liter = Rs 450
                      Catrol Radicool - 1 liter = Rs 228
                      Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant - 1.89 liters = Rs 1300

                      Chain lube:
                      Motul Chain Lube Road - 400 ml = Rs 510
                      Motul Chain Clean - 400 ml= Rs 480
                      OKS chain lube spray - 100 ml = Rs 140

                      KTM Spare parts:
                      Front fender : Rs 613
                      Handle bar : Rs 765
                      KTM Fuel tank : Rs 1611
                      KTM fuel tank cover : Rs 1020
                      Swingarm : Rs 6375
                      Mirror : Rs 225
                      Radiator assembly : Rs 4359
                      Radiator fan : Rs 1339
                      Radiator protector right side : Rs 72
                      Radiator protector left side : Rs 72
                      Lever front brake : Rs 109
                      Lever and Sup holder assembly : Rs 288
                      Lever break : Rs 234
                      Number plate front : Rs 22
                      Grip assembly RH : Rs 151
                      Leg assembly right side : Rs 8350
                      Leg assemble left side : Rs 8871
                      Single Indicator: Rs 560
                      Set of 4 indicators : Rs 1800
                      Holder Step RH (Right Foot Peg) : RS 132
                      Assembly Main Step (whole Bracket) : Rs 534
                      Fairing under cover (head Light Mask bracket) : Rs 194
                      Coolant Solvent top-up only : Rs 35
                      Digital Meter : Rs 6000
                      Dashboard : Rs 101
                      Right Foot lever Brake (Rh foot lever) :Rs 209
                      Oil filter: RS 65
                      Fuel filter: Rs 85
                      Air filter: Rs238
                      Leg Guard Rh (right Leg Guard) : Rs 120 (Pair Rs 240)


                      KTM Powerparts and power wear:
                      KTM Tank pad : Rs 1450
                      KTM front crash pad : Rs 2180
                      KTM rim sticker : Rs 1270
                      KTM tank-cap sticker : Rs 1820
                      KTM Vented Jacket : Rs 14890
                      KTM radical gloves large : Rs 5270

                      Crash protectors:
                      Indimotard KTM Duke 200 bar end sliders : Rs 750
                      Indimotard KTM Duke 200 crash guard : Rs 5250
                      R&G Racing Tail Tidy - Rs.6000
                      R&G cotton Reel - Rs.3000
                      R&G Racing Fork protector - Rs.3200
                      R&G Racing Radiator guard - Rs.4000

                      Source: India KTM Duke 200 Owners Group, thanks to Aravind Anbazhagan.
                      whats the price of the alloys, front caliper and disc, rear caliper and disc and the steel braided hose pipes... Any idea how much the exhaust will cost?
                      This Tail Is Japani Tail (spell as you like)

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by NikhilB View Post
                        And I hope no one is putting a gun to your head and forcing you to buy one.

                        Thanks for the wishes.
                        Nah!! no one is , else the same person would point a gun to make sure I dont write what I did.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by ashutosh_x View Post
                          Folks,

                          From the experiences so far, it doesnt appear that Duke 200 is the best bike around. I suspect that 1-2 years down the line, the bike will be exposed and its performance will be no where near the Ninja 250R, which happens to be the first of this kind of a venture by Bajaj.
                          However, I hope for the best for the buyers of Duke, that they dont run into many technical problems with the bike in the future.

                          -Ashutosh
                          There's nothing going on with this bike that doesn't happen to most new models. The legitimate "issues" so far are very minor, things like loose chains, low coolant, and rare fuel injection mapping issues. Go over to the ADVRider website, and read through the 800+ page thread on the new Tiger. Read about some of the teething problems that bike had, including widespread problems with the injection map, bad design of the centerstand, and problems with bolts not being properly tightened at the factory, and that's a USD13000 flagship adventure bike, not a titchy little entry-level.

                          Second, it's not a legitimate comparison to match the Duke with the 250 Ninja. The Ninja is a very different bike. First, it's a twin-cylinder vs. the Duke's single, and the Duke gives up 50cc to the Ninja. Second, the little Ninja has existed for more than two decades virtually unchanged, so the design is very mature, and much more conservative than the Duke.
                          ATGATT: All The Gear, All The Time!

                          Current bike: Yamaha XT1200Z Super Tenere

                          Put the phone away, put your helmet on, and ride!

                          Scooters are like fat girls: fun to ride, but embarrassing if your friends see you with one.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by The Mountain View Post
                            There's nothing going on with this bike that doesn't happen to most new models. The legitimate "issues" so far are very minor, things like loose chains, low coolant, and rare fuel injection mapping issues. Go over to the ADVRider website, and read through the 800+ page thread on the new Tiger. Read about some of the teething problems that bike had, including widespread problems with the injection map, bad design of the centerstand, and problems with bolts not being properly tightened at the factory, and that's a USD13000 flagship adventure bike, not a titchy little entry-level.

                            Second, it's not a legitimate comparison to match the Duke with the 250 Ninja. The Ninja is a very different bike. First, it's a twin-cylinder vs. the Duke's single, and the Duke gives up 50cc to the Ninja. Second, the little Ninja has existed for more than two decades virtually unchanged, so the design is very mature, and much more conservative than the Duke.
                            So you still waiting for the tiger Mountain? You were considering the Bandit too right? However the focused nature and purity of the Triumph badge might be more tempting sure.
                            Btw any suggestions on the 'sudden-loss/lack-of-pickup-in-4th gear' I mentioned in my previous posts? I fear something might not be right/can go wrong with the engine.
                            PS owners :One thing I forgot to mention. Very minute coolant leakage does happen from where the reservoir is topped up in front of the tank. I saw 1 or two droplets of coolant on the reservoir cap and a very minute amount splashed on the front of the tank(due to the wind) when riding my way to office today morning. This has happened a few times before. It's more of a minute seepage than a leakage. I guess it's more due to the fact that the cap may not be securing the entry completely even when fully screwed on my bike and boiling coolant escapes when it becomes too hot.
                            I had done a small top up too 2 weeks back(free) at the svc. I suggest owners should keep the level only just above minimum to be sure of no overspill of coolant.
                            btw I never faced the 'coolant level goes down' problem many owners have reported here. My coolant level never went down. I had a small bike spill and a little coolant had escaped because of which I had to top it up(the level had not still gone below minimum though)
                            The hero always RIDES into the sunset!

                            My Touring Logs-
                            French Riviera
                            https://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/38345-biking-french-riviera.html
                            Scotland-
                            http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...-3600-kms.html
                            France -Normandy and Paris on the CBR
                            http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...adventure.html
                            KTM chronicles-
                            http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...hronicles.html

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Doga View Post
                              So you still waiting for the tiger Mountain? You were considering the Bandit too right? However the focused nature and purity of the Triumph badge might be more tempting sure.
                              Btw any suggestions on the 'sudden-loss/lack-of-pickup-in-4th gear' I mentioned in my previous posts? I fear something might not be right/can go wrong with the engine.
                              Still waiting on the Tiger, yes. I abandoned the idea of the Bandit a while ago, especially in light of there being a better substitute: the Speed Triple. I was going to "Streetfighter" the Bandit, but why go to the trouble, when the Triumph factory has done the work for me (and at a cheaper price)? That goes even further now, since Suzuki has dropped the non-ABS version of the Bandit, and now only has the ABS version (I prefer non, just what I'm used to). However, every now and then, I get this desire to just say "F#ck it" and get a Hayabusa . It's not that much more than the Tiger, plus there is a dealer here in my city.

                              For your acceleration issue, as you noted, check the airbox/filter. However, since it only seems to happen in an upper gear, it may also be a mapping issue. Clean your filter first (if it needs it), and see if that helps, since that's the cheaper of the two things to deal with. I can't come up with any other possibility that would noticeably degrade acceleration in 4th gear. Is it just that one gear, or all the upper gears?
                              ATGATT: All The Gear, All The Time!

                              Current bike: Yamaha XT1200Z Super Tenere

                              Put the phone away, put your helmet on, and ride!

                              Scooters are like fat girls: fun to ride, but embarrassing if your friends see you with one.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Bplus View Post
                                1. What should I keep in mind during the initial 1000 KM (run-in period) ?

                                There are generally three different methods of breaking in a new bike:
                                1. Breaking it in gently, babying it. Easy does it.
                                2. Breaking it in Roughly, revving the heck out of it - ride it like you stole it philosophy.Duke is a real hooligan, Slam, bam, thank you ma'am.
                                3. Break-in as per the Manufacturers Manual recommendations.

                                I will go with the third method anyday.This is going to seem long and would require a lot of self control but I promise it will be worth it !

                                A. Allow the engine to idle for 3 minuets before starting to ride and after getting off the bike.
                                B. Strictly do not exceed 7500 RPM and do not run constantly at too low RPM either.
                                C. Ride with a varying RPM all the time while shifting the gears as and when required to allow the gear box to break-in.
                                D. Do not open full throttle.Accelerate and decelerate the speed gradually and in a uniform manner.
                                E. Do not take it for a long distance highway rides,at constant speed and attempt to clock the initial 1000Km over a weekend.A short 30 minuets ride and then allowing the bike to cool down would be great.
                                F. Use both the brakes and use them gently.Do not apply the brakes hard.
                                G. It will take 200 Km for the tires to break-in to provide optimum road grip.Drive with caution during those initial 200 KM as the tires will tend to be slippery and is perfectly normal with any new tire.
                                H. Fools might invite you for a race, dont fall for it.
                                I. Read carefully through the rest of this document.

                                Other reference:
                                New Engine Break-in Procedure
                                How to break in a new engine
                                Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

                                2. What petrol can be used ?

                                The owners manual says to use Super unleaded RON 91 petrol.All fuel available in India have a RON 91 rating except for Bharath Petroleum Speed 93 and Speed 97 which have a RON rating of 93 and 97 respectively.The difference is in the type additives added.Premium petrol is not mandatory for the Duke but advisable.I prefer to use Shell Super Unleaded or fill at the same busy COCO (Company Owned Company Operated) petrol station.

                                Some other facts:A. A lower-performance engine will not generally perform better with high-octane fuel, since the compression ratio is fixed by the engine design.
                                BC. RON ratings are not quality ratings.
                                D. If your bike only requires RON 91, higher RON petrol rating is only a waste of your money!

                                3. What you should know before heading towards a petrol station for re-fueling.
                                (or)
                                The petrol overflows after doing a full tank topup and leaves behind a strong petrol smell - Refer point 3 D.

                                A. The total fuel tank capacity is 10.5 liters out of which 1.5 liter is the fuel reserve capacity.
                                B .Each bar on the fuel indicator, approximately equals to one liter.
                                C. A 'Low fuel level' warning would appear on the info display if the fuel level reaches the reserve mark.You need to be heading straight to the nearest petrol station when you see this warning.
                                D. Do not fill petrol up to the brim (full tank) as this would cause the fuel to overflow usually when tilted towards the side or when running over a pothole/speed breaker,leaving behind a strong petrol smell.
                                E. To ensure that the fuel indication on the display by the fuel sensor is accurate follow the steps below
                                - Turn off the bike.
                                - Shake the bike towards either side.You might be able to hear the fuel splashing inside the tank.
                                - Hold the bike upright.
                                - Turn on the key and wait for a few seconds.

                                4. What you should know about the engine coolant (also known as anti-freeze).
                                (or)
                                Floresent green colour coolant is leaking - Refer point 4 E,4 H,4 I

                                A. The owners manual recommends Castrol RadiCool Heavyduty coolant (premixed).
                                B. Castrol RadiCool is a glycol based premixed coolant which can be directly pored into the coolant reservoir unlike other concentrated coolants.When your coolant level is low, DO NOT ADD WATER into the coolant reservoir or dilute the Castrol RadiCool as it will reduce the glycol and corrosion inhibitor concentration and accordingly reduce the protection provided,increasing the risk of damage to your cooling system and engine.
                                C. Motul Motocool Expert Coolant (premixed) can also be used.
                                D. Never mix two different coolants because of the possible incompatibility.
                                E. In case the coolant is dripping/leaking or spills, wash off with water immediately, do not simply wipe off with a cloth.
                                F. For maximum system protection, replace (complete drain out and refill) Castrol RadiCool at least every three years or 60,000 km.
                                G. Never remove the radiator cap,radiator hoses or other cooling system components when the engine is hot.
                                H. Check the coolant level when the bike is upright and not when it is resting on its side stand.
                                I. The coolant level must be between MIN and MAX mark.If the coolant level is at or above the MAX level,the coolant will overflow from the radiator house usually after the engine becomes warm.
                                J. How to flush your Coolant



                                5. What you should know about the engine oil.
                                (or)
                                Can I switch over to a fully Synthetic oil during the first service ? - Refer point 5 A,5 B,5 C

                                A. The recommended engine oil is Bajaj DTS-i 10,000 or Motul 7100 20W50.
                                B. Motul 300v Factory line double ester 15W50, though not recommended my the manufacturer would be more suitable if you live in a place which has a generally cool climate throughout the year.
                                C. The stock engine oil,Bajaj DTS-i 10,000 is a semi synthetic oil.It is usually recommended to change to fully synthetic oil (like the Motul 7100/Motul 300V) at 5000KM.However,people who
                                had changed to fully synthetic oil during their first service (1000 Km) had only good things to say.
                                D. The specification of the engine oil to be used is SAE 20W50 API SG/SL JASO MA,MA1.
                                E. The engine oil capacity is 1.4 liters.
                                F. The engine oil level must be between the lower and upper edge of the oil level viewer window when the motorcycle is held upright on a horizontal surface.
                                G. Replacing the oil filter every time the oil is changed is highly recommended.
                                H. Like the engine coolant,never mix two different engine oil.
                                I. Cold engine oil will not drain properly, so before you start changing the engine oil, drive your bike around to raise the oil temperature to bring it to normal operating temperature.Then switch off the engine and remove the oil drain plug.Be prepared for the potentially hot flow of oil as you unscrew the drain plug.
                                J. Never use a engine oil meant for a car on a motorcycle.

                                Some other facts:

                                Below is the break down of the engine oil specifications as recommended by KTM
                                SAE 20W50 API SG/SL JASO MA,MA1

                                SAE - It stands for Society of Automotive Engineers.They have created a standard for identifying the viscosity characteristics of engine oil and have a reading such as 2oW-50,15W-50 ..etc

                                20W-50 - The number 20 before the 'W'(W = Winter) indicates the low temperature viscosity properties while the 50 indicator of the high temperature or operating viscosity properties.Lesser the value of the number before the W would mean thinner or less viscous the oil would be and is recommended for places that have cold climate almost throughout the year.

                                APISG/SL - The 'S' as in SG/SL is meant is a motorcycle with petrol engine.SG and SL are standards as per API.

                                JASOMA,MA16. What you should know about the brake fluid.
                                (or)
                                I hear a squealing noise from the brake. - Refer point 6 H

                                A. The recommended brake fluid specification on the owners manual is DOT4 or DOT 5.1
                                B. The brake fluid can be topped up just like the engine coolant.
                                C. Never mix two different grades of brake fluid or different brands of brake fluids.
                                D. DOT 5 brake fluid should strictly not be used on the Duke.
                                E. The brake fluid level should always be above the MIN mark for front and rear brake.The brakes may not function if it goes below the MIN mark.
                                F. The front and rear brake fluid needs to be changed during the third service.
                                G. Clean up overflowed or spilt brake fluid immediately with water.They will cause damage to the paint job.
                                H. Use the brakes gently until 1000 Km to let the brake pads to bedin properly.You may notice a squealing noise caused due to this is and is perfectly normal.

                                Some other facts::

                                - DOT - Department of Transportation..
                                - DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are glycol-based brake fluids, DOT 5 is a silicone-based brake fluid.The different DOT categories refer to the different boiling points of the fluids.Higher the number,higher would be the boiling point.

                                7. What should be the tire and the tire pressure ?
                                (or)
                                My new tire feels slippery around the corners - Refer point 7 A

                                A.It will take 200 Km for the tires to break-in to provide optimum road grip.Drive with caution during those initial 200 KM as the tires will tend to be slippery and is perfectly normal with any new tire.
                                B.Poorly inflated tires can be a safety threat and degrade the handling of the bike.This would also cause low mileage,abnormal wear and overheating of the tire eventually reducing the service life of the tire.
                                C.Some owner manuals may indicate the wrong tire pressure.The correct tire pressure is printed on the swingarm

                                Only rider -
                                Front: 25 Psi
                                Rear : 28.5 Psi

                                Rider + Pillion-
                                Front: 25 Psi
                                Rear : 32 Pst

                                8.What is the tire size specification?

                                The stock tires MRF revz FC for the front and MRF revz C for the rear.
                                Front tire size : 110/70 R17 54S
                                Rear tire size : 150/60 R17 66S

                                Some other facts::

                                Below is the breakdown of the tyre size specifications

                                Rear :150/60 R17 66S

                                150 -is the width of the tyre in millimeters.
                                60 -is the aspect ratio or tyre profile.In other words it means,height of the tire is 60 percent of the width of the tire
                                R -means it is radial construction.
                                17 -is the diameter of the wheel rim in inches.
                                66 -is the load index.It is the amount of weight the tire can support when properly inflated.
                                S -Speed rating of S would mean it can withstand a maximum speed of 180 KM/h.

                                Front:110/70 R17 54S

                                110 -is the width of the tyre in millimeters.
                                70 -is the aspect ratio or tyre profile.In other words it means,height of the tire is 70 percent of the width of the tire
                                R -means it is radial construction.
                                17 -is the diameter of the wheel rim in inches.
                                54 -is the load index.It is the amount of weight the tire can support when properly inflated.
                                S -Speed rating of S would mean it can withstand a maximum speed of 180 KM/h.


                                9. How to wash the Duke and keep it shinning ?
                                (or)
                                The digital console shows warning light just after a water wash - Refer 9 A, 9 D.

                                A. As mentioned in the owners manual ''Never clean the vehicle with high pressure cleaning equipment or a strong water-jet.The excessive pressure can penetrate electrical components,socket connects,throttle cable and bearings, etc., and can damage or destroy these parts.''
                                B. Never wash a motorcycle when it is hot.
                                C. Use a sponge and a regular garden hose with a regular stream of gentle water cascading out works just fine.You don't use a high pressure jet to water your roses, do you ?
                                D. It would be ideal to cover the entire seat with a plastic cover before starting to wash with water as most of the electricals are right under the seat.You probably have your bike papers under the seat as well.
                                E. Use a mild car wash shampoo to clean the bike and not detergent powder.Detergent or dish soap can cause permanent damage to the paint job.
                                F. Never direct a flow of water directly on to the radiator,use a soft brush instead to remove those dead bugs and clean the radiator fins gently.
                                G. Clean and lubricate the chain.
                                H. After you have cleaned you bike allow it to dry for 15 minutes and then take it out for a ride,this will ensure the bike is dry and shining.

                                Note:Many Dukers have reported electrical issues immediately after a high pressure water wash.Don't do it on any motorcycle.
                                Updated.Corrections and suggestions are welcome

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