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Thread: Honda CBR 250R

  1. #24841
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    Default Re: Honda CBR 250R

    Thanx. Will do and post if the problem gets resolved

  2. #24842
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    Post Re: Honda CBR 250R

    Quote Originally Posted by arvstreetracer View Post
    I would like to start with simple measures before inspectng the fuel pump itself.

    1. Replace fuel pump relay. Or just interchange both radiator fan and pump relays' positons to see if it makes any difference. If problem gets resolved, replace old one with a new relay. If not, go to step 2.

    2. There are 3 wires under the ignition switch. Try to remove cap underneath ignition cap and pull each wire gently to check if they are soldered firmly to contact points. Out of 3 wires, one goes to fuel pump. If all wires are intact on their points, go to the end of the cable which ends with a coupler - coupled with wiring harness near the steering neck lying above the rubber flap. You can pull it though space is quite tight there. Spread wd40 in the coupler and rejoin the wiring harness. Neglect over time leads to corrosion in points in sockets and it breaks supply of current.

    3. Kill switch. Spread wd40 into it. Same corrosion and rust happen due to moisture and it interrupts the supply of current.

    If above remedies fail to resolve your problem, you may proceed with pump inspection.
    Quote Originally Posted by bikerjack View Post
    Guys I newd a help.
    My fuel pump motor is behaving erratically.
    Sometimes it starts on the first attempt and sometimes it starts after 10-15 attempts.
    I have to manually switch off and on the ignition key again and again for it to start. Fuel pump light comes on every time but fuel pump motor does not start every time.

    What may be the problem. How can it be solved.
    Fuse is OK. Petrol quality is OK.
    Just as Arvind explained beautifully, one thing I would add in this process before finally inspecting the pump is WD40-ing the pump connector itself. The pump connectors are underneath the fuel tank and a good dose of WD40 would mean, all the doubts and oxidation are out of the way, and if it still is troubling then we'd have to look into the pump motor itself.

    Cheers!
    VJ
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    Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
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    And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.


    THE END

  3. #24843
    Rookie ManasN95's Avatar
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    Default Re: Honda CBR 250R

    Hello members,

    I'm due for a brake pad change, and I've read glowing reviews about Galfers here itself, but came across some links which aren't working anymore.

    Does anybody have a link for them? I've heard they cost about the same as OEM brake pads if ordered from abroad?

    A different query, the stock OEM brake pads are close to being worn out at around 7700 KM's. Isn't this mileage very low for them to wear off? What am I doing wrong?

    I am a very sedate rider, do not unnecessary wring the throttle, and I maintain sane speeds whenever I am on a highway and I hate sudden acceleration and sudden braking cycles.

    I could think of 2 possible reasons for early wear:

    1) I'm obese. ~110 kilos at 5"10. Would this affect the wear?

    2) 90% of my use has unfortunately been in the city, so constant use of brakes. Last three months, 100% of the use has been in the city. But since the time I have observed this fast wear rate, I am using engine braking along with minimal use of brakes to reduce the rate of wear.

    Any other thing I can consider as a possible reason? Please advise.

    Mine is a 2017 C-ABS version.
    Before you climb Everest, you have to conquer the mountain inside your head.

  4. #24844
    Rusted krish2778's Avatar
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    Default Re: Honda CBR 250R

    Quote Originally Posted by ManasN95 View Post
    Hello members,

    I'm due for a brake pad change, and I've read glowing reviews about Galfers here itself, but came across some links which aren't working anymore.

    Does anybody have a link for them? I've heard they cost about the same as OEM brake pads if ordered from abroad?

    A different query, the stock OEM brake pads are close to being worn out at around 7700 KM's. Isn't this mileage very low for them to wear off? What am I doing wrong?

    I am a very sedate rider, do not unnecessary wring the throttle, and I maintain sane speeds whenever I am on a highway and I hate sudden acceleration and sudden braking cycles.

    I could think of 2 possible reasons for early wear:

    1) I'm obese. ~110 kilos at 5"10. Would this affect the wear?

    2) 90% of my use has unfortunately been in the city, so constant use of brakes. Last three months, 100% of the use has been in the city. But since the time I have observed this fast wear rate, I am using engine braking along with minimal use of brakes to reduce the rate of wear.

    Any other thing I can consider as a possible reason? Please advise.

    Mine is a 2017 C-ABS version.
    I'd suggest to stick to OEM pads for the ABS model.

    If you are still inclined to look for aftermarket options, try out Motousher, they are the authorised dealers for EBC brake pads and they have a pretty good helpline to help figure out the right part and shipping is usually fast.

    7.7k is a bit on the lower side to be honest.

    Long city use definitely accelerates the wear of the pads and the more load that needs to be stopped the stronger the brakes need to work.

    Another reason why pads might wear off is improper install or the pads getting seized and permanently rubbing on the disk(seized pistons in the calliper unit). This can be fixed by making sure the callipers are services right next time and pads are not seized or fouling on the rotors when the levers are not compressed.
    Another common issue is one side pad wears out much more than the other, i.e the left side pads might be significantly thinner than the right side or vice versa. This happens because of improper install of pads, usually when you take the bike to get puncture fixed on tyres changed, when they remove the wheel and fit it back they might not do a proper job of making sure the callipers are mounter properly onto the rotors.

    Cheers
    Ride Safe
    Krishna
    ManasN95 likes this.
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    Run-in Procedure | Power Loss Solutions | Riding Gears 101 | Biking Brotherhood

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    ulsar 220F
    |2013 Honda CBR250R|KTM Duke390|Yamaha R3|Yamaha R1|Triumph Tiger XRX

  5. #24845
    Rookie ManasN95's Avatar
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    Default Re: Honda CBR 250R

    So, with immediate need of a change in disc pads, (both had around 300 KM's of material left acc. to the mechanic), I took the CBR to Vihaan Honda, Thane.

    Booked an appointment 3 days before, and made sure that the spare parts department had the ABS disc pads, cam chain tensioner and two fairing parts that we're cracked and broken respectively.

    Reached the SVC at around 10:30, the job card initiation was pretty quick as I already knew the sources of issues I was facing. The CBR specific mechanic over there, Amol, said that labour would be charged at 1600. I was dumbstruck. The SVC had a board displaying the labour rates, showed 700 for a generic servicing.

    I asked the service advisor, Abdul (pretty famous for his work) and he explained me the additional things in the 1600 service. I kept that decision on hold.

    I first changed the cam chain tensioner to see if the stitching sound goes away, if not then I would have opted for valve clearance inspection and then shims if needed, but thankfully I saved that expense as the cam chain tensioner (474/-) did the trick and the bike was smooth in acceleration as before.

    So, I thought, now that I've saved bucks of the shims and related labour, I took the 1600/- service and Amol got to work.

    Things done:
    1) Both brake callipers opened, sprayed with a cleaner, cleaned, greased and new brake pads installed.
    2) Brake bleeding, brake fluid topped up.
    3) Wheels removed, axles cleaned, sprayed, greased.
    4) Fork oil changed to Motul 20W (Filled up 310 ml in both forks), necessary allied things cleaned and greased.
    5) Radiator fins checked for damage, coolant topped up
    6) Steering axle nut checked for play, adjusted.
    7) Brake lever angle adjusted.
    8) Headlight throw adjusted.
    9) Air filter condition checked (Had installed a new one 200 KM's before)
    10) Rear suspension (Pro-link) disassembled, cleaned, greased and assembled.
    11) Battery voltage checked (13.21 AMPS)
    12) Injector assembly cleaned thoroughly (negligible deposits before cleaning, still carried out the cleaning)
    13) WD40 applied on as many terminals as we could and switches
    14) Engine mount bolts torqued.
    15) Broken LID - R - TANK replaced (405/-)
    16) Electrical check-up
    17) Replaced Clutch Lever as previous was slightly bent.
    18) Chain cleaned, adjusted and lubricated.
    19) Washed with soap water.

    I was in attendance during the whole process (especially during washing and the water jet speed was very fast, and I didn't want him pointing that to the radiator or the exhaust outlet) which took 7 hours in total, 1 hour lunch break in between. Could have done much earlier, but we know the technicians.

    Amol did a very thorough job, and even though 1600 sounds excessive, I felt that they're worth spent for a job done well.

    The spare parts cost:
    Rear Brake pads - 1202/-
    Front Brake pads - 1907/-
    LID-R-TANK - 405/-
    Cam Chain Tensioner - 474/-
    Clutch Lever - 170/-
    Ribbet - 14/-
    Consumables - 100/- (For the grease that he applied ; WD40, Fork Oil, Brake Oil were all mine)

    Labour - 1600 + 18% GST

    Total Amount = 6328/-

    I took her keys December, 2018 and since then I've only followed strict/before time Engine Oil changes (with one cycle of Shell Rimula R4 treatment, currently on Shell Advanced Ultra which is 900 KM's old) and regular chain maintenance. No other servicing or maintenance was done, which I'm not particularly proud of, but financial constraints kept me hand-tied; but had a peace of mind because she's a Honda afterall. She has 7900 KM's on the odometer right now.

    The bike has become extremely smooth again, and the only issue I face is that the front brake is making a slight 'kch-kch' noise on application. Any suggestions?

    Does the labour rate sounds acceptable for the work done? I liked his work, that's for sure.

    Sorry for the long post on not a very important update, I just went with the flow.Name:  IMG_20200124_113518_1.jpg
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    krish2778 and siddhant like this.
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  6. #24846
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    Default Re: Honda CBR 250R

    Lovely Manas. Now that you've replaced and serviced as it's supposed to be, don't bother about the labor, it's perfectly acceptable for the work done, and nopes you weren't overcharged. What I'm happy with is the stitching sound, that's solved just as I suggested.

    So, all in all, a job well done. Don't bother too much, just enjoy the ride

    Cheers!
    VJ
    ManasN95 likes this.
    Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
    The girl said, 'NO!'


    And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.


    THE END

  7. #24847
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    Default Re: Honda CBR 250R

    Quote Originally Posted by ManasN95 View Post
    So, with immediate need of a change in disc pads, (both had around 300 KM's of material left acc. to the mechanic), I took the CBR to Vihaan Honda, Thane.

    Things done:
    1) Both brake callipers opened, sprayed with a cleaner, cleaned, greased and new brake pads installed.
    2) Brake bleeding, brake fluid topped up.
    3) Wheels removed, axles cleaned, sprayed, greased.
    4) Fork oil changed to Motul 20W (Filled up 310 ml in both forks), necessary allied things cleaned and greased.
    5) Radiator fins checked for damage, coolant topped up
    6) Steering axle nut checked for play, adjusted.
    7) Brake lever angle adjusted.
    8) Headlight throw adjusted.
    9) Air filter condition checked (Had installed a new one 200 KM's before)
    10) Rear suspension (Pro-link) disassembled, cleaned, greased and assembled.
    11) Battery voltage checked (13.21 AMPS)
    12) Injector assembly cleaned thoroughly (negligible deposits before cleaning, still carried out the cleaning)
    13) WD40 applied on as many terminals as we could and switches
    14) Engine mount bolts torqued.
    15) Broken LID - R - TANK replaced (405/-)
    16) Electrical check-up
    17) Replaced Clutch Lever as previous was slightly bent.
    18) Chain cleaned, adjusted and lubricated.
    19) Washed with soap water.

    Useful information and checklist ...
    ManasN95 likes this.

  8. #24848
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    Default Re: Honda CBR 250R

    Hello,

    I'm going to get the CBR ceramic coated in a few days. But the omly grouse is that the muffler shield gets scratched all the time. So with the rest of the bike looking gorgeous, the exhaust heat shield would keep getting scratched.

    I'm planning to get it repainted before the coating, but does anybody here has a trick to avoid the shield getting scratched?

    Any kind of sticker I can apply on it?
    Before you climb Everest, you have to conquer the mountain inside your head.

  9. #24849
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    Default Re: Honda CBR 250R

    Quote Originally Posted by ManasN95 View Post
    Hello,

    I'm going to get the CBR ceramic coated in a few days. But the omly grouse is that the muffler shield gets scratched all the time. So with the rest of the bike looking gorgeous, the exhaust heat shield would keep getting scratched.

    I'm planning to get it repainted before the coating, but does anybody here has a trick to avoid the shield getting scratched?

    Any kind of sticker I can apply on it?

    Heat resistant or High temperature vinyls are available. If you notice the material aftermarket exhaust manufacturers use to make stickers to stock on the exhaust something like that.
    Any good wrap / vinyl shops should be able to help you out with that.

    If you are painting it it will still end up getting scratched, the exhaust shield is a magnet for scratches.

    Cheers
    Ride Safe
    Krishna
    ManasN95 likes this.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Run-in Procedure | Power Loss Solutions | Riding Gears 101 | Biking Brotherhood

    P
    ulsar 220F
    |2013 Honda CBR250R|KTM Duke390|Yamaha R3|Yamaha R1|Triumph Tiger XRX

  10. #24850
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    Default Re: Honda CBR 250R

    Guys i have cbr 150R. Is it safe to clean Valve as i am not facing any kind of problem right now. acc to manual it should be clean at 24K but my odo is 30K. I live in Nashik (Maharashtra) as my dad said dont open engine cause mechanic didn't finish task properly and they will create more problems in future.
    So i want ur advice regarding this. What should I do?


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