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Poll: What FE do you usually get on your R15 v 2.0?

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Thread: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

  1. #11021
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    Default Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

    Quote Originally Posted by Arvind Sibi View Post
    Hey guys, It's been nearly 1.4 years with my bike and I've completed 21k Kms so far. 95% driven on the highways for long rides. I'm not a great fan of acceleration and hence I just end up cruising at around 75kph at 5k rpm all day. Has anybody tried over gearing their bike? I don't want an increase in the top speed but just want a decent enough cruising speed at the same rpm range of 5k-6k. Tried gear commander and the gains were decent with the loss of acceleration when compared with bigger rear(driven)and smaller front(drive) sprockets. Given that our bike has a 15T drive sprocket and a 47T driven sprocket, What could be altered? The 42T rear sprocket of the V1? or a bigger drive sprocket? Or both? Help would be much appreciated!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    From what I heard the rule of thumb is never to +/- more than 2 teeths

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    Default Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

    Anyone here using a open pod airfilter such as k&n?

    Do you experience a kind of sound like paper flapping very quickly... only happens when the bike is moving. Sounds like a air leak or sth I can't really rectify 😢

  3. #11023
    Wanderlust Arvind Sibi's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

    Quote Originally Posted by R-series View Post
    Though I've not tried sprocketing on an R15, I have quite some experience experimenting with sprockets. Point to be noted - change of one teeth at front is practically equal to 3 at the rear.
    Now keeping that in mind, I would never recommend reducing 5 teeth in one go. If you are thinking of it, the loss in acceleration will come out to be equal to the change in teeth i.e 11%. I would suggest trying to fiddle with 1-2 or 3 teeth at once and then see if you like it. The problem with reducing the teeth so much will be mostly observed in lower gears and you would actually struggle while picking up from stand still or taking U-turns. You might even have to raise the rpm so much so that is has enough torque to pull the bike from stand still.

    That's just a suggestion you are free to keep it or reject it.
    Coming to the front, as I stated that 1 teeth at front is equal to 3T at the rear, however, you shouldn't be reducing the front count less than 13T. If the stock is 15T, try 14 or 13 at the max. Going beyond that would reduce the turning diameter of the chain too much that it'll get very stressed. This in turn reduces the life of the chain and sprocket alike. But, since you are going for a more relaxed setup reducing front would not work for you. You might be more interested in increasing the front for a more relaxed ride.

    Let me know if you have any questions on this. I'll be more than happy to assist.
    Increasing the front would definitely help but I believe there is no bike currently with a 16T front sprocket except a few of the early 2-Strokes. And coming to the rear sprocket, The only sprocket available closer to the current 47T would be the 43T sprocket of the Duke but I heard that it wasn't compatible. The next one is the R15 V1 with 42T and then comes the Karizma/FZ with 40T. And also note that the swing arm of the bike needs to be removed while replacing the chain and hence experimenting would be a time consuming task. Any advice? I'll post a few pics from the gearing commander website comparing the various sprocket setups soon.


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  4. #11024
    Wanderlust Arvind Sibi's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

    Here are the readings that were found while experimenting.

    1. Stock Sprocket Setup.

    I believe that there is some kind of error since the bike does 75kph at 5k rpm in 6th gear but on this site, it shows 72kph. Let's keep an error of 3kph.

    2. Rear 42T setup.

    At 5k rpm, the bike should be doing 83kph, adding the error of 3kph.

    3. Rear 40T setup.

    Now it's 88kph with the error corrected.

    All these seem pleasing but I have no idea of how much I am going to struggle in even moving the bike from standstill. Here are a few more interesting stats that I came across.

    Gear-Rpm charts.

    1. Stock 47T


    2. 42T


    3. 40T


    And finally the comparative analysis of the 6th gear in all the 3 Setups.

    1. At the M.P RPM (Max Power RPM)


    2. Concentrating much on the 5k RPM range since I'm in need of a relaxed cruising setup.


    That's it. These are what I came up with. Do correct if I have done any mistakes and all I can do now is wait for your valuable suggestions.



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    manub likes this.

  5. #11025
    Addicted vjxm's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

    Quote Originally Posted by Arvind Sibi View Post
    Hey guys, It's been nearly 1.4 years with my bike and I've completed 21k Kms so far. 95% driven on the highways for long rides. I'm not a great fan of acceleration and hence I just end up cruising at around 75kph at 5k rpm all day. Has anybody tried over gearing their bike? I don't want an increase in the top speed but just want a decent enough cruising speed at the same rpm range of 5k-6k. Tried gear commander and the gains were decent with the loss of acceleration when compared with bigger rear(driven)and smaller front(drive) sprockets. Given that our bike has a 15T drive sprocket and a 47T driven sprocket, What could be altered? The 42T rear sprocket of the V1? or a bigger drive sprocket? Or both? Help would be much appreciated!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Tried the overgearing in v1. Was Facing problem of frequent gear changes in traffic or city drive. Fuel efficiency drop about 3 to 5 kmpl.
    not a hard racer, but love to drive.
    fully DIY type Guy

  6. #11026
    Wanderlust Arvind Sibi's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

    Quote Originally Posted by vjxm View Post
    Tried the overgearing in v1. Was Facing problem of frequent gear changes in traffic or city drive. Fuel efficiency drop about 3 to 5 kmpl.
    I believe that under gearing would have helped in the city. Despite decrease in mileage.


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    Default Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

    Dear,
    I'm R15 rider, my bike have go to time in need service, but don't know how to, Any one have latest owner manual or service manual of R15 v2 ? Thank for reading.

  8. #11028
    Rusted R-series's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

    Quote Originally Posted by Arvind Sibi View Post
    Here are the readings that were found while experimenting.

    1. Stock Sprocket Setup.

    I believe that there is some kind of error since the bike does 75kph at 5k rpm in 6th gear but on this site, it shows 72kph. Let's keep an error of 3kph.

    2. Rear 42T setup.

    At 5k rpm, the bike should be doing 83kph, adding the error of 3kph.

    3. Rear 40T setup.

    Now it's 88kph with the error corrected.

    All these seem pleasing but I have no idea of how much I am going to struggle in even moving the bike from standstill. Here are a few more interesting stats that I came across.

    Gear-Rpm charts.

    1. Stock 47T

    2. 42T

    3. 40T

    And finally the comparative analysis of the 6th gear in all the 3 Setups.

    1. At the M.P RPM (Max Power RPM)

    2. Concentrating much on the 5k RPM range since I'm in need of a relaxed cruising setup.

    That's it. These are what I came up with. Do correct if I have done any mistakes and all I can do now is wait for your valuable suggestions.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Sorry, I took out your pics to make the post a bit simple to quote.
    1st, the error in the speedo is not a linear quantity. You should instead consider the percentage. Cos eventually it's a set of gears and with speed the error increases. If at 75kmph it's 72kmph, that comes out to be a 4% error. I higher speeds the difference in kmph will be more (same percentage though).

    With stock setup - 47T in 6th gear, you're doing 122.8 @8500 rpm.
    with 42T in 6th gear, you're doing 137.5 @8500 rpm. Now consider the same amount of time difference in percentage for you're bike to reach that speed. For eg. Lets say it takes 14sec for you bike to reach 122.8 in stock setup. With 42T it will take 11% more time [=(47-42)/47] to reach the same speed (i.e 122.8kmph), that becomes 11% of 14 sec = 15.5 sec (approx). Now consider another few seconds to reach the above said 137.5 kmph @8500rpm. Something like 17-18sec, maybe more just to reach 8500rpm. So, should give you an idea how slow the acceleration becomes with difference of 5T.
    Practically, your engine might not even have that much torque to pull the bike to 137kmph. Theoretically it's possible because we are considering standard power delivery, but that is not in practical. The engine only provides peak torque and power at a certain rpm, not at all rpms. I've seen people make these changes on other bikes and they say their bike doesn't redline. It can't because with that gearing the engine doesn't have that pull being so tall geared. On down hills, it definitely assists the engine to pull and climb through the tacho, but on on straights. Wind resistance, weight, friction, etc, all external factors do not make it easy for the engine to pull the bike with such tall gearing.
    So my suggestion would still be 1-3T max. If you can't find a ready made, you can get it custom made as well.
    Just because you haven't seen it doesnt mean its impossible...expect the unexpected.

  9. #11029
    Wanderlust Arvind Sibi's Avatar
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    Default Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

    Quote Originally Posted by R-series View Post
    Sorry, I took out your pics to make the post a bit simple to quote.
    1st, the error in the speedo is not a linear quantity. You should instead consider the percentage. Cos eventually it's a set of gears and with speed the error increases. If at 75kmph it's 72kmph, that comes out to be a 4% error. I higher speeds the difference in kmph will be more (same percentage though).

    With stock setup - 47T in 6th gear, you're doing 122.8 @8500 rpm.
    with 42T in 6th gear, you're doing 137.5 @8500 rpm. Now consider the same amount of time difference in percentage for you're bike to reach that speed. For eg. Lets say it takes 14sec for you bike to reach 122.8 in stock setup. With 42T it will take 11% more time [=(47-42)/47] to reach the same speed (i.e 122.8kmph), that becomes 11% of 14 sec = 15.5 sec (approx). Now consider another few seconds to reach the above said 137.5 kmph @8500rpm. Something like 17-18sec, maybe more just to reach 8500rpm. So, should give you an idea how slow the acceleration becomes with difference of 5T.
    Practically, your engine might not even have that much torque to pull the bike to 137kmph. Theoretically it's possible because we are considering standard power delivery, but that is not in practical. The engine only provides peak torque and power at a certain rpm, not at all rpms. I've seen people make these changes on other bikes and they say their bike doesn't redline. It can't because with that gearing the engine doesn't have that pull being so tall geared. On down hills, it definitely assists the engine to pull and climb through the tacho, but on on straights. Wind resistance, weight, friction, etc, all external factors do not make it easy for the engine to pull the bike with such tall gearing.
    So my suggestion would still be 1-3T max. If you can't find a ready made, you can get it custom made as well.
    Well, I just made a raw reading of the error and regarding the top speed, I've clearly mentioned that I'm not looking for speed. In fact even a 100kph is enough for me. And redline? I'm never into even getting near it. I'm again telling that I'm just looking for a slighter increase in speed at the 5-6k RPM range for a relaxed cruising. So can you please suggest anything regarding my mentioned needs? And also can you please repost your observations like the above post of yours regarding the RPM/gear/speed at 5k RPM?


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    Last edited by Arvind Sibi; 05-15-2015 at 07:07 PM.

  10. #11030
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    Default Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

    Quote Originally Posted by Arvind Sibi View Post
    Well, I just made a raw reading of the error and regarding the top speed, I've clearly mentioned that I'm not looking for speed. In fact even a 100kph is enough for me. And redline? I'm never into even getting near it. I'm again telling that I'm just looking for a slighter increase in speed at the 5-6k RPM range for a relaxed cruising. So can you please suggest anything regarding my mentioned needs? And also can you please repost your observations like the above post of yours regarding the RPM/gear/speed at 5k RPM?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Your post had gear-rpm chart which highlighted 8500rpm, thus I thought you're also looking for top speed.
    Since loss of accelaration and delay in hitting stop speed is not an issue, then you can reduce the teeth, but again, 1-3T only.


    I would say try it before you buy it. Get your hands on someones used sprocket(42T or 40T), which they should give you in less than half the amount of a first hand one. If you like it, you can buy a new one, else try another option.
    Cos you wouldn't know if the setup is good or bad if you have nothing to compare it with.
    Just because you haven't seen it doesnt mean its impossible...expect the unexpected.

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