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@Gixxer & bprags
Holy Cow!!! I really envy you guys for having easy access to all spares and expert mechs. bprags bike does sound lethal.

So bprags bro... you too have RTR180 block and piston? and what does porting with bigger dia bend pipe mean? easy to accomplish? Is it easy to install the Victor glx disk brakes? any modifications for the installation? and what's the cost?

Sorry fellas, I am full of questons!

Well, my baby has the RTR head with the first genration CBZ piston, so making it a 185 cc setup. Bend pipe is the one where the exhaust begins from the heads exhaust valve. As for the discs, I opted for the OEM fiero disc kit, which is a straight fit on the bike. Regarding accomplishing it all I can say is you need a good mechanic to execute all these, I have one, whom I totally rely, he is a little expensive but he knows the bike inside out.

To be frank, I have spent a fortune on the bike . I love her and don't feel like selling her. The disk kit was 6K and all the head setup including the RTR ignition, coil rewinding a bigger battery [5 amps], might be around 10K, but looks like the effort has been worth it. As I said a few weeks back, my bike just blew away the nations current heart throb the FZ16 with ease, the FZ was no where to be seen inspite of me giving the FZ a good 6 to 7 meters head start. I will try to get the 0 to 100 video of my bike, should give you guys an idea.

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Thanks bprags for your answer!... You mean the classic CBZ had a bigger piston? and the F2 disk kit is a straignt fit on the Clasic Fiero forks? no need of widening?

Yeah chief the cbz classic had the shortest stroke of any bike made in india!! 49.5 mm stroke with a bore of 62 mm.So you can imagine what kind of a high revving bike it was.
I don't think you will find the fiero f2 disk brake kit anymore.You would have to get some other bike's disk brake set up.

Anand

an update !

I've ridden the total of 275 kms so far after the engine work...
bike is become much much smoother now.

the vibes are decreasing day by day, however its a bit difficult to climb uphill at lower revs..

as soon as the revs increase, it becomes completely different machine..
however i am strictly limiting it to 3.5k to 3.8k rpm.

due to this my high beam bulb isn't getting much needed power so am good with low beam only..

strangely I've noticed ticking noise possibly from the engine..
it could be the valves, but they are supposed to hit the piston anyways.
maybe the tappets need adjustment, i don't know for sure..

however the sound is very very low, hardly audible, i guess it was there from day 1 and i am not even sure that it can be any issue...

bike is breathing good, kick backs are very very very strong, does start in 1 kick sometimes, and sometimes not !!

I've decided to keep the run-in until 2000 kms
let's see if i can wait that longer...

Running-in will be done once you reach 500 kms.The noise you hear could be the tappet noise .Kick back are a indication that the engine's compression is high,which is a good thing.

Don't try that 15 kmph in 4th gear test of yours or making the bike climb gradients in low rpms like 3.5k.What you will do is ,put the engine's head under lot of pressure when you don't give it enough revvs to climb.If the engine is made to lugwhich will make the valve train rattle and in time will loosen the oil seals.Which means engine will start drinking oil.Trust me i have found this out the hard way when i was using taller gearing than the engine can handle when it was stock . It ended up lugging in higher gears ,resulting in the oil seal going for a toss and engine ended up drinking half a liter of motul 300v before i noticed it.

Remember nano buddy your bike is a big-bore one now which means power band has gone up higher in the rev range and on top of it a bigger dia carb means the power is shifted up the rev range too.Which is what has happened with the 29mm carb.Why do you think bullets use 26 mm carbs for their 350cc machines? It's because smaller dia carb means more low and mid-range .

Another thing,valves should never hit the piston and the lathe guys make sure they don't, mechs adjust timing for that reason and rev-limiters are there for this reason.If valves do come in contact with piston ,it means a engine blow out.

okay!
thanks gixxer for clearing up the doubt..
the timing and stuff were very well adjusted by vishal himself, so i have completely 0 doubt about it...

even i feel the bike wants me to revv her hard !!
sound is become good, everything is falling in place and bike's feeling good !!

now tell me, should i change the gears at higher revvs ??

lets keep running-in apart, after that period at what rpm should i change the gear ??

and just 500 kms ???
isn't run in period strict ??
my last time's run in was 1000 kms !!

@NANOtechnology: How was the timing adjusted? I would like to know, as I have been advised by gixxer_junkie_m to get that checked at my next service.
Tomorrow is my R15's 2 year end service, hopefully next to next weekend I should be able to get my Fiero F2 serviced too. If there is no engine work required, I'm planning for new rubber.
Will keep all updated as usual.

Run-in for a new bore-kit is usually 500kms .Since you haven't gotten anything done to the head you can just go for a oil change , oil filter change after 500 kms and start opening the throttle .

Keep the engine in the power-band or at least close to it. Once you start opening the throttle you will know which rpm range engine has good torque .So keep her in or near that rpm range.
The old peak torque figure of your bike has gone up and it has moved up the rev range too, so you have to keep the engine in higher revs than before.Believe me it will give good mileage too when kept in or near the peak torque rpm range,because a engine operates optimally in it's power-band.

So complete the 500 kms as quickly as possible and then start exploring her

@Nano:- running for 2K kms is too much, just run in for 500 kms and then r.pe her. If I were you, I would already begin opening the throttle for a few secs and I would advice you the same. As for speeds to maintain, just do as gixxer says keep her in the revv band and it should be fine.

go for michellins
besides i don't exactly know myself as how timing is adjusted,
vishal is a master in this segment
its jut that there's a bolt on top of the magnet cover, after removing it, if you rotate the magnet inside, there's a T written on the magnet, you need to make that T visible at some ideal position, that's all i know about..

if the T is not visible, you need to adjust the screw of the magnet to do so, is something like that, but i still don't know exactly...

IMJOSHEE please let him know how its done..

500 kms ??
i don't have a good feeling about it, even the mechs recommend 500 kms, but i will still stick to atleast 1000 kms..
will give me peace of mind !!

and about the exhaust, will it be a problem if i keep the stock exhaust in stock condition ??

i don't want my bike to shout, i can compromise a bit of top end for that..
what do you guys say ??

it shouldn't be a problem

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NANO bro, you're the one to insist on me getting my first break-in servicing done at 500 km after my engine re-bore and piston change. Well I got it done at 650 km. My engine was not an upgrade. I guess bro, since your engine is an upgrade with a major re-bore , you should strictly follow the breakin advice. OK you can probably go up to 650 or 700 kms, but get it serviced with oil and oil filter change, and tappets adjusted if required. Get it done and feel the difference.

@Nanotech

Don't worry about the exhaust for now.Unless and until the porting work is done it won't matter much anyway .

@bprags

Yaar raghu give me some more info about the bend pipe work.The carb hasn't arrived yet and i will probably take the bend pipe work later.Mr Krishnamurthy also told me that the bend pipe on your bike is that of pulsar.Just give me general idea about what you saw at the welding work.

Anand

Let the mech handle the ignition timing .In simple terms .The ignition timing is checked by rotating the crank till the "T" is at the marked position ,which means the piston is at TDC(top dead center) and the cam position is set by making sure that the two lines on the cam sprocket are level with the head.Which makes sure ,at TDC the valves will be shut.A spark is generated from the CDI at the power stroke and this ignites the fuel air mixture of the power stroke.
The term advancing the timing means the spark happens when the piston hasn't reached the TDC which creates knocking /pinging .If the mixture is lean then the flame doesm't propagate in a even manner over the piston and it ends up spontaneously exploding resulting in knocking/pinging.The crank will be pushing up and the combustion would be pushing the piston down.In short if this continues ,its sayonara time for the engine.
Retarding the timing means the spark happens when the piston has reached TDC.It is generally ok and safer for stock engines and helpful for a modified engine with higher compression.