Off course not as comparing a 150 cc bike with a 200 cc one is foolishness. One of those threads came to my notice when a review of that bike claimed 58 kml mileage. Don’t know why, any of the fighters there are not claiming it in actual riding.
Anyway, that healthy discussion is a relief when you become bored with Tom and Jerry.
One of my friends has brought the funniest ‘survey’ in this universe to my notice. You can see it here.
I do understand the satire behind your “near perfect solution” but my reaction to your previous one was not to hurt you in any way.
Using kerosene to wash the bike may be perfect as you claim, but how is its smell removed? More than that, isn’t using a good car shampoo and carnauba wax polish better and economical? As far as I know, any detergent with high pH value removes the polish and paint gradually, revealing the original face of our Miss Indias.

As far as I know, the 20W-40 oil works as 20 weight oil from zero degree centigrade to minus 20 degree centigrade and as a 40 weight oil at 100 degree centigrade, the maximum the bike’s engine reaches at normal riding condition.
Where in India is the atmospheric temperature is below minus 20 degree centigrade and which bike's engine temperature reaches above 100 degree centigrade?

Dip097,
Another useless (I mean useful to none - nothing else) discussion about engine oil is going on here from September 19, 2008.
Even after 3 years, 10 months and 10 days of continuous discussion and vigorous debate, any two of the discussants are not expressing the same opinion there. Somebody going there with a simple doubt returns utterly confused as almost all the gurus there are masters in the subject and in making everything confused and unable to speak in layman’s words.
So, please don’t drag that marathon discussion to our thread.
One thing I forgot to mention earlier. A regular washing is enough to keep our bike rust free. Even a single washer of my 30 months old bike is not rusting. What Suzuki lacks is not quality checking but marketing strategy. See the pathetic advertisements of Hayate on TV channels. No one watching it will ever go to the dealer to have look on it.

Engine oil for operating temperature other than -10 to 40 digree celcious-
15w-40,15w-50,10w-40,10w-50 & 10w-30.

pH livel of detergent is 10 and pH level of a good car shampoo is from 8.5.But there are car shampoos with higher Ph value. As i used a mixture of water,kerosine&detergent i don't know in what pH level my solution has become. Any way it is not giving any side effects to my skin. So how it is gona damage paint if it is safe on our hands and cloths?.
20W-40 oil means it can be operated at an ambient temperature between -10 to 40 degree celsius.

Ok , that's what I wanted to know . Suzuki must have mentioned the different grades of oil that shall be suitable for operation of the engine in various conditions in the owner's manual . Some manufacturers here don't .

I am using a mild car-shampoo(amway auto wash) in 1/4th the recomended dilution for washing the bike monthy . Sometimes that's not enough to take out all the road grit and grime in the lower parts like wheel and chain-cover etc , then I may use detergent solution there with a toothbrush , again made up very dilute . Diluted solutions of even a strong detergent(I use tide) wouldn't have any ill effects on paints or plastics etc I think . I have seen service staions or mechs use kero or diesel for this but I'm not ok with it , since oils are always bad for paint & brakes . Probably such a short exposure doesn't matter at all .. but ...
I also wax it sometimes .

Help : My GS doesn't need clutch while moving - ?? :|

Guys / fellow GSpians I need help. As stated, my bike doesn't need clutch during up/down shift of gear.

background : I am a very satisfied owner of my 3 months / 6K GS. Yesterday @5777 km I did the third service of my bike. Instead of SVC castrol oil I put valvoline champian 4t (SAE 20W40 API SJ Jaso MA). The SVC adjusted the clutch play as the same was a bit loose.

Now my down shift with full clutch is near impossible. I have to try really hard to get a down shift. while moving it still shifts but once you stop at 6th gear it really trial and error to get downshift.

tonight after parking my bike i found that i can shift gears without pressing the clutch. 1-N-2-3-4-5-6 then back 6-5-4-3-2-N-1. surprised i took it out for a spin.
Found that while riding I can also shift gears without pressing clutch / slight tap. but if I press clutch fully i can not it's very hard. also i get a little thud while the clutch engage / disengage.

This is very unnatural. please help. your comments are overly welcome.
I have to be definite before i go back to my Suzuki SVC which is nearly 40 KM + One office leave away. sadly this is the case for most of us. unlike maruti-suzuki SVC a only suzuki SVC is never near.

I am attaching pics of my current engine oil that i pour.

Volvoline is a good oil and goes well with GS [personal experience]

shifting with out clutch is possible and it just needs practice, but don't try it in traffic
and don't ask me how much mileage it increase

many used to confuse with grade and temperature, i have used 15W-50, 15W 40 and 20W 40
among them Jaso MA2 20W 40 is better than normal 20W 40 oil

It is always tricky to shift from 6th to 1st gear, while vehicle is stand still and engine running. I don't find anything unnatural in it.

thanks for the replies.
I am well accustomed with clutched / clutchless shifts (as per my riding exp - 44K fiero F2 and now this last 10 yrs.) Clutchless shifts are tricky and you have to exact at the same speed / rpm range to do that. but this is behaving something like "hero street smart" clutchless 4 speed gear box. without clutch shifts are effortless slight tap and you are done (both up and down shifts). but once i dis engage the clutch fully it doesn't engage easily. this should not be the case for our bike.

also i have two major concerns -
one - there is a definite sound when the clutch engage / dis engages. does it hamper the clutch system ? my trusty local mech says he has to open the clutch system and check . this I am reluctant to do locally as the bike is new.

two - once the bike rolls off clutch disengaged it's very hard to get a down shift let aside multiple down shifts. this is very trouble some in stop and go traffic.

Being able to shift the gears in a parked bike is quite surprising indeed . Since I've never been able to do it , it shouldn't be happening . But don't worry , I think it may be a minor adjustment problem in clutch etc , try those first . Eventually if you have to open the clutch side engine case to inspect for problems , it's easy and simple job .. get at done by the ASC and use a new genuine gasket for the case cover then .

Nothing special. When theres no load then theres no need for the clutch, the revs match automatically.

When theres load its abit tricky. For upshifting, bring the bike to a comfortable RPM and load the gear shifter gently, now close and open the throttle within a millisecond, the bike'll do the rest of the job. For downshifting, when the RPM's dropping apply as little force as possible to the gear shifter and it'll downshift. But as per expert advice its not at all recommended to downshift without clutch, though for upshifting its actually recommended.

No no Ashwin , that's not just it - With your bike in standstill , engine shut and without touching the clutch lever at all , try to go through all the gears and back . Can you do that ?

This is from the user’s manual of GS:
"ENGINE OIL. Oil quality is a major contributor to your engine’s performance and life. ALWAYS select good quality SAE 20W-40 engine oil.
SAE Engine Oil Viscosity. Suzuki recommends the use of SAE 20W-40 engine oil. If SAE 20W-40 engine oil is not available, select an alternative according to the following chart".
And a chart is given showing 20W-40 for minus 10 degree C to above 40 degree C, 15W-40 or 15W-50 for minus 15 degree C to above 40 degree C, 10W-40 or 10W-50 for minus 10 degree C to above 40 degree C and as a last choice, 10W-30 if the atmospheric temperature is between minus 20 degree C to 30 degree C.
As I said earlier, in case of a 20W-40 oil, the 20 denotes the weight/resistance to flow/resistance against flowing/viscosity of that oil at minus 20 degree C to 0 degree C. That means it cannot be thicker than that in that temperature span. But my bike while starting is not at that temperature. E.g. here now the atmosphere is 28 degree C and the viscosity of the oil in my bike is not 20 but much lesser, i.e. it flows more easily. If my bike is at Dras and the temperature is -45 degree C, the picture is different, demanding a less than 20W oil.
And 40, the number after W shows the oil flows as a 40 weight oil at 100 degree C; not at 40 oC. This means, the number before and after the ‘W’ shows the maximum thickness/resistance against flowing/viscosity at minus 20 to 0 degree C 40 denotes the thickness (thinness) at 100 degree C. The number before and after ‘W’ denote the thickness/resistance against flowing/weight of the oil at certain temperatures and is not the atmospheric temperature around the running bike as the engine heat is much higher than the atmosphere.
The manufacturer’s suggestion on engine oil depend many factors and that is why Suzuki recommends 20W–40 oil for GS, Zeus and SlingShot and 10W–30 for Access while all these vehicles are supposed to be running at the same atmospheric temperatures.
So, using the oil recommended by the manufacturer throughout the year is the best practice unless the bike is stored at very low temperature which makes starting troubles and wear and tear due to the viscosity/thickness of the oil which cannot flow easily to protect the moving parts.
I cannot express more here due to the following reasons:
1. I am not fluent in Hindi, Bengali, any other Indian language than my colloquial or English.
2. You cannot understand my tribal colloquial.
It is really difficult or impossible to shift gear while the bike is stationary. In such situation, I am moving the bike slightly to and fro to do it.
You can smoothly (smoother than by pressing clutch lever) shift from second to sixth and back to second gear easily without disengaging the clutch. I am doing it from the very beginning. Actually, clutch disengaging is not necessary for gear shifting if the bike is moving and is done at the correct RPM.
The hardness you feel while shifting is due to improper engine RPM, I think. And the ‘thud’ noise you mentioned is there in every GS.
Anyway, if you think there are problems and it started after adjusting the clutch, get it readjusted to the previous stage at the SC. Do not trust any local mechanic unless you are sure that he is an expert.

Sir, I believe theres a misunderstanding. When I meant no load, then it means that the bike is in mainstand, how else can there be no load(Other than the cough cough, unconventional ways. ).

That's alright , but can you shift thru all of 'em gears at standstill and engine off no clutch ? I think Srijit is right , it is quite unusual and may be indicative of an mis-adjustment or possibly there is a minor problem with his bike . No ?

^^^
Engine off? Never. Its a constant mesh, it doesnt work like that.