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Thread: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

  1. #1361
    Rusted srini's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soumen.sam View Post
    Not only the engine oil makes the gears feels harsh, gear leaver also makes it feels harsh. Grease and lube all gear leaver play points also change the oil.
    Quote Originally Posted by Motorcyclist View Post
    Had a similar issue with my Hunk recently. It also 'Feels' as if the gearbox is harsh. I did a basic oil change (3rd service) and it went away...
    will try oil change...thanks
    It all begins with a thumb-start -- Oh, wait, I forgot the kill-switch

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    Quote Originally Posted by noel046 View Post
    By the way... Which engine oil are you using... My Hunk is due for 2nd service and I'm planning to go for Shell advance SX 4T Mineral Oil... Have heard lot good about this mineral oil and best of all is it is 10W30...

    I am still on the HH oil (my service center stocks idemitsu/valvoline.). It is good till about 1200 kms of ripping or 1800 or so of regular riding. After that just top up and continue using...it is good enough.

    One very important point that I follow...when you start the bike, keep it on idle for atleast 2 minutes for starts after a long break (2 hours+). Dont do this when bike is on side stand. use main stand or sit on the bike and do this. Your gearbox and engine will run smoother.
    Last edited by Motorcyclist; 01-15-2010 at 11:40 PM.
    Riding the BULL....(with out the LET)...
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  3. #1363
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motorcyclist View Post
    I am still on the HH oil (my service center stocks idemitsu/valvoline.). It is good till about 1200 kms of ripping or 1800 or so of regular riding. After that just top up and continue using...it is good enough.

    One very important point that I follow...when you start the bike, keep it on idle for atleast 2 minutes for starts after a long break (2 hours+). Dont do this when bike is on side stand. use main stand or sit on the bike and do this. Your gearbox and engine will run smoother.
    K sure... I understand that when engine temperature goes high valve clearance increases but when i ride for some ten kms or my idling shoots up to 2.5k and sometimes upto 3k on hot afternoon... is it ok...the idling is set correctly though

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    Quote Originally Posted by noel046 View Post
    K sure... I understand that when engine temperature goes high valve clearance increases but when i ride for some ten kms or my idling shoots up to 2.5k and sometimes upto 3k on hot afternoon... is it ok...the idling is set correctly though
    I had the same problem turned out to be the tappets took it to the SC 3 times but the incompetent SC morons could not get this done correctly had to travel 200KMs to chennai just to get the tappets adjusted correctly and the rising RPM thing Vanished instantly .
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    When the engine worm up 2.5 k or 3k RPM is not normal. 1k to 1.4k RPM is normal. When the engine completely wormed up ie after ridden 5-10 km, tune the idle screw and set the idle speed exactly 1.4-1.3k rpm. So if the engine is healthy when the engine start at cold then the rpm would be 1k rpm and as the engine will worm up the rpm will goes to 1.4k RPM.
    Speed is a joy but roads are not race track. Keep speed in your limit and always Drive safe...

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    Quote Originally Posted by soumen.sam View Post
    When the engine worm up 2.5 k or 3k RPM is not normal. 1k to 1.4k RPM is normal. When the engine completely wormed up ie after ridden 5-10 km, tune the idle screw and set the idle speed exactly 1.4-1.3k rpm. So if the engine is healthy when the engine start at cold then the rpm would be 1k rpm and as the engine will worm up the rpm will goes to 1.4k RPM.
    Yeah You are correct... What if it were to be a tappet problem or valve clearance issue... Don't You think its like inviting more trouble... I would like to have more advice on this issue and XBhp gyangurus through some light on this issue...

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    Angry Engine rpm....

    Another problem guys.....
    My bike HH Hunk has clocked 3500km. On last Saturday-16/01/2010, (as I am having holiday), I washed my vehicle at service station and came back home. I applied polish and oiled the chain etc. As I was facing problem with engine rpm drop - as the rpm was dropping day by day since I had my 2nd service done @ 1,800km(I have changed engine oil in between @ 2,300km), I opened the spark plug and surprised to see that it has accumulated lots of carbon on it. Checked the net and found the reason, i.e, reach mixture of fuel and air. I went to the HH Sc and told the service supervisor the condition.
    After having a test ride, the Service supervisor confirmed that the tuning is wrong as at high rpm, i.e, 7000 - it is emitting black smoke. The mechanic was trying to fix this and he decided to clean the carburettor. I think, he also detected the problem of rem drop.
    But today, I got the same problem. Just like everyday, I started my bike and the rpm was struggling. The rpm was below 1000mark so I pushed the throttle little bit and made at 1200. After the engine warm up, it was touching 1100/1200 rpm mark. Then I had a ride of 20min and after I found that the rpm was touching 1400mark. Then I gave the engine a rest for approx 5 min and once again pushed the starter. Immediately it touched 1100rpm and then i can see the rise in rpm meter from 1100 to 14000 and finally it settled in 1400 mark.
    i am facing the problem for the first time. I thought it can be due to abnormal cold weather (8 to 9 deg here for last two days).
    Please give me your valuable feedback. On that basis I'll mail the thing to HH regional office.
    Move on.........
    bappaditya @ +919804822971.

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    But today, I got the same problem. Just like everyday, I started my bike and the rpm was struggling. The rpm was below 1000mark so I pushed the throttle little bit and made at 1200. After the engine warm up, it was touching 1100/1200 rpm mark. Then I had a ride of 20min and after I found that the rpm was touching 1400mark. Then I gave the engine a rest for approx 5 min and once again pushed the starter. Immediately it touched 1100rpm and then i can see the rise in rpm meter from 1100 to 14000 and finally it settled in 1400 mark.
    i am facing the problem for the first time. I thought it can be due to abnormal cold weather (8 to 9 deg here for last two days).

    Brother, Sounds to me normal in winter climate, 1400 is correct idle RPM, it's normal if the rpm climbs from 1100 to 1400 over few minutes esp. in cold whether. Use choke for first minute of starting procedure - always. In case of clarity talk to the supervisor who 'tuned' the RPM.

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    Default My Achiever continues to impress !!

    Brief report of my Achiever @4500 kms
    -------------------------------------

    Engine : Damn smooth, easily beats GSR/Uni in NVH levels. Silent and feels totally stress free across all operating speed range. Engine oil is ~4000kms old (changed at 600kms -Ist svc HH Idemitsu). This season I guess there's no winter in B'lore Morning temp. is 20+Deg C !!
    Mileage : ROCKS ! Avg. city 52-53 kmpl, worst 47kmpl (B'lore metro routes, 'inching' traffic) best 55kmpl (Indranagar-Peenya route relatively low traffic). No highway ride yet, so no figures.
    > Oiling chain every 800/1000kms (free at HH svc center), I tip the mechanic with Rs.10/- though.
    > Engine power is consistent w.r.t speed/RPM always ! 60kmph @ 4700 rpm everytime on flat roads.
    > My bike is strangely attracting eye balls as well, be it near tea stalls, traffic stops, people ask me about the bike. It's very exclusive to own this bike I have hardly seen a dozen Achievers till date in B'lore.
    > The tool kit under the seat had less no. of tools (HH has given me Splendor tool kit instead of Achievers'), hence was making some noise, fixed it by keeping some cleaning cloth.
    > Hit 100kmph few times, the absence of fairing is a blessing and feels a lot smoother at higher speed, no hint of 'resonance vibration till date'.

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    1st I’ll say something about the Tappet or Valve Clearance. Valve Clearance is just a gap which allows playing Inlet and Exhaust Valves. In the cold engine the Valve Clearance have an ideal gap specification and as the engine get wormer and wormer the gap increases so the play of valves increases. In normal condition when the engine cools down the gap also decrease. So the complete tappet issue is with temperature.

    Our desi bikes are air cooled, that means the air flow makes the engine to cool down. So you can imagine that just an air flow how much can help to cool down a metal. Here is the issue. We have to keep in mind that these engines are not liquid cooled like cars. The ability of cooling the engine is very less in air cooling system. And the engine heats up as much it runs. If you do a survey all those guys are getting valve clearance or tappet problems (Loose Valve clearance), 90% of them ride above the top speed limit, say @ 120+ km. where the manufacturer declared a top speed for each bikes. So we have to have kept this thing in mind. And maximum time those bike runs very less those get the Less Valve Clearance problems. Say if a bike is keep idle at home for weeks and weeks.
    And if the Valve Clearance increase then you will get tap tap noise and if the Valve Clearance decreases the engine will loose its power and maybe it can heat up more than normal. Another thing about the engine heat up is engine oil. In these bikes the engine oil works as a heat management system more than lubrication. The oil also helps to keep the engine cool. So we must stick with a recommended grade and a good oil, it doesn’t mean it should be a fully synthetic oil or so.

    So now we can say that the machine built to run faster so why we cant? Yes we can but the issue is servicing. A machine needs regular and exact servicing which these machines never get. Say about the Valve Clearance, it has a different specific gap for each different bike. Now at the service center suppose the service manual says the a Valve need .08mm gap but the service man using a scale ( Feeler Gauge ) that even don’t have that exact .08mm scale in it. Suppose Feeler Gauge have closest to the specification .10mm scale and the service guy set that gap at that scale. Even few times they tune it just any way, just by using their ideas. And if you ask its not a correct gap, the service guy politely reply sir its good for your bike. So here is the myth, suppose if a cold engine requires .08mm and when it get worm the gap increases to .10mm. But if the gap set to .10mm in a cold engine, it will get .12mm when it will be worm.

    So the over all issue is we if we love our machine we shouldn’t put these machine at extreme. The setting that company provides we never ever able to get that after a good servicing. Even each bolt in bike has a specific torque but no service guy cares.

    And about the carburetor: the carb is the heart of the engine. We know why we respect a Heart specialist doctor. A factory set default carb setting ONLY can provide optimum air-fuel mixture and optimum performance. And those guys getting low mileage in new bikes they must improve their riding skills, AFAIK. So always remember never let the service guy to mess with carb. Let the carb run if you get any problem clean it by an expertise. Generally a carb works well without any maintenance min 2-3 years. Generally to check a carb that is working well or not : warm-up the engine and set the RPM at exactly 2k or 3k and leave, after a few sec watch carefully that the needle is fluctuating or variable, going up and down or its is steady there. If it is steady then the carb is ok.
    Last edited by soumen.sam; 01-19-2010 at 12:53 PM.
    Speed is a joy but roads are not race track. Keep speed in your limit and always Drive safe...

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