As far as I know motoman method is hard breaking-in, i.e. rip the bike as soon as you get it to complete the running-in in say 500kms. No idea about Duke.
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These so called break-in methods like the motoman method etc. work best for engines which are built to race.
There is a website called mototuneusa which explains the motoman method and also has some pics of the engine internals as "evidence" of a good break-in. The pics are from engines broken in using motoman method and manufacturer method. Now since these engines are built for races and last only one or two races (not the entire season) this motoman method might make good sense.
For street use i'd rather be conservative and probably risk losing some top end performance. Instead of hammering and battering my bike in the hope that it'll do 5-10kmph more than other ninja's or 0.1xxx secs faster than other ninja's, i prefer a reliable engine anyday.ATGATT - Because hospital ceilings are boring !!!
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break in
Originally posted by sheelpriye View PostFor the benefit of the community, would you be the guinea...?
Originally posted by MT01 View PostWhat is the duke method?
What is the motorman method?
You try both of these and let me know.
P.S. Dont blame me if you wreck the bike.
I know the manufacturer method is foolproof and will not harm the engine but it also does not prepare the engine to its full potential, however, I have also not read or heard about anyone who tried the above methods and screwed their engines. The key is to lookout for overheating your engine.
Another thing to note is that 80-90% of the engine is broken in the initial kms and a good part of it is already spent in the factory by the engineers who already load the engines while testing so your bike has already gone through the above methods partially and I am not sure how much would be the difference after that if I choose the manufacturer or the above methods for break in
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Originally posted by TorqueMaster View Postcan't promise ...
these are couple of controversial break in methods proposed by some guys. A lot of info about them are on the net including ninja 250r forums and if you read do seem to be logical, however, as I said they are controversial and everyone has a different opinion about them.
I know the manufacturer method is foolproof and will not harm the engine but it also does not prepare the engine to its full potential, however, I have also not read or heard about anyone who tried the above methods and screwed their engines. The key is to lookout for overheating your engine.
Another thing to note is that 80-90% of the engine is broken in the initial kms and a good part of it is already spent in the factory by the engineers who already load the engines while testing so your bike has already gone through the above methods partially and I am not sure how much would be the difference after that if I choose the manufacturer or the above methods for break in
i m doing some daily commuting each day in rain, mud n traffic and its nice when people look around your bike n when u r standing under some flyover because of rain n people starts crowding ......and staring at ur bike and asking you questions only about price n mileage .
anyways daily i have to clean my radiator today by the time i reached office i found 2-3 cm thick layer of mud on radiator ...gosh ....but i am just checking out my bike on offroading also (faridabad- badarpur - delhi) in badarpur you end up doing more offroading and it handles very nicely like another bike without giving u problem taht you are handling a 175 kg bike but its working fine n no issues with engine.....
n its turning out to be a nice commuter 25kmpl easy to handle ,agile, quick can be taken in traffic easily ....
and regarding engine ....i m sticking to my way ....not following 800 at 4k n next 800at 6khero honda pleasure (for bringing vegetables)
p150 classic (for R & D)
M800 (reach office on time when getting late)
SWift (commuting 100+ kms in NCR traffic)
CIVIC (business meetings)
KAWASAKI NINJA "to have best moments of my life"
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Originally posted by harikeshpk View Postwelcome.. guys
my problem was i used to lift my bullet without any concern and hence the casual approach and paid the price.
thanks for the video. the weight has to be on your legs and not on you back. thats the way it needs to be done. my weightlifter brother had told me. the video reinforces the point.The company I keep:
Yamaha Rx100
Yamaha RD 350 (HT)
Bajaj Pulsar 150
Kawasaki Ninja 250r
RIDE SAFE! IF SOMETHING HAPPENS TO YOU, WHO'LL TAKE CARE OF YOUR BIKE?
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Don't write off motoman or duke's method
I remember reading somewhere that tenhut had used the duke's method of breaking in and going by what somebody else said on this thread his bike revved more freely than other ninjas.
as far as i know the motoman's method or duke's method is nowhere specific to race machines, it can be used for street bikes and apparently reliability of the engine is not an issue. TBH this is what i intend to follow on getting my bike.
Maybe TenHut could throw some light on itrespect ma authoritae!!
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- 2006 Pulsar 180 dtsi
- 2011 r15 V 2.0
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Originally posted by anhil8tr View PostI remember reading somewhere that tenhut had used the duke's method of breaking in and going by what somebody else said on this thread his bike revved more freely than other ninjas.
as far as i know the motoman's method or duke's method is nowhere specific to race machines, it can be used for street bikes and apparently reliability of the engine is not an issue. TBH this is what i intend to follow on getting my bike.
Maybe TenHut could throw some light on it
waiting for Tenhut to comment on this ...
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the controversial run in methods say that only mineral oil to be used and not synthetic. my ninja was delivered with i think semi synthetic oil of bajaj. so i have to be careful with my running in as synthetic oil should not be used unless your engine has done about 10,000 k. this is because the main purpose of oil is to create a seal between the piston and cylinder. in a new engine this seal is already tight due to nature of the engine (new )and normal mineral oil is always recommended to bed in the parts properly by any company.
now if synthetic oil is used in a new engine which has not run in properly with normal mineral oil lets say about 6000 to 10,000 kms minimum, the synthetic oil will create a seal so tight that the engine will not be able to run properly and will cause more damage than doing any good.
so please don't forget your engine's main part is the piston and cylinder and that's what is going to be affected. what you feel after using synthetic oil in a new engine like smoother gear, clutch, smooth feeling etc is due to the very property of the oil to protect metal to metal contact to the max, at the same time creating a very tight seal on the piston/cylinder there by proper bedding in of the engine is affected.
so prospective motoman' and dukes please ensure that atleast your engine oil is ordinary mineral oil before you RIP your engine.Mountain biking on impulse with my wife and our bike goes down in water
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...own-water.html
my saddle sore 1600k is official - the story
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...ddle-sore.html
my space
www.harikesh.com
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Originally posted by Yasser View PostWhat happens to guys with 'problem' knees?Mountain biking on impulse with my wife and our bike goes down in water
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...own-water.html
my saddle sore 1600k is official - the story
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...ddle-sore.html
my space
www.harikesh.com
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Originally posted by gorbi View PostAnyone using KN Filters for Ninja 250R? Please state your opinion as I'm looking forward to buy both air and oil filter. Pros and Cons, If any.....
Sorry for the delay in replying..
K&N air filter will help the bike to breath properly and don't expect an improvement in performance..... Easy to change/clean as it is factory size...
I got it from Bangalore for 4.5 K
No idea about oil filter...
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Originally posted by TorqueMaster View Postso you getting your ninja too .. congratsrespect ma authoritae!!
sigpic
- 2006 Pulsar 180 dtsi
- 2011 r15 V 2.0
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Originally posted by sreehari_r1 View PostK&N air filter will help the bike to breath properly and don't expect an improvement in performance..... Easy to change/clean as it is factory size...
I got it from Bangalore for 4.5 K. No idea about oil filter...
Got mine from eBay.com and it cost me only 2.7k. The oil filter is a tad cheaper.ATGATT - Because hospital ceilings are boring !!!
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Originally posted by anhil8tr View PostThats another story mate, i still have some time to go, got a raise though, it'll make it a whole lot easier though. Though my first option is to look at a used SBk may be a 01-02' within 5 lakhs, hoping to find some once i move to delhi. If that doesn't work out then its gonna b the ninja all the way.
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Originally posted by n_aditya View PostI called Methods Automotive (who are authorized distributors for K&N in Blore and are located in Lavelle road) and they also quoted me 4.5k for the air filter.
Got mine from eBay.com and it cost me only 2.7k. The oil filter is a tad cheaper.Now Riding
Harley Davidson 48
Kawasaki Ninja 250r (sold)
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Originally posted by balkumar View Posthey check at planetDsg its costing 3990/-
Does anyone know where this can be sourced from in blore (apart from methods automotive)? I already have one but posting this for the benefit of the community.ATGATT - Because hospital ceilings are boring !!!
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