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**harikeshpk** · 08-19-2011, 10:20 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Whenever the engine is stressed,or parts tolerance off spec, moving parts tend to grind against each other more than design parameters and some amount of metal is shed...this is attracted by the magnet and held captive and not allowed to be part of oil circulation.....In the DIY IF the circulation is not at higher velocity then this will not cause problem...If you want a really fool proof method, take a magnet 3mm less in dia than the drain bolt, go to a lathe shop and cut out the required depth and width of the magnet so that it will sit 1mm less than the bolt surface.Now seal the magnet inside cavity with lathe help and your magnetic bolt will not hamper any parameter.

there is no need for such a bolt for the ninja. the risk of the bolt spoiling the bike internal is far greater that what it may give due to a imperfect mod. even the first oil change on the ninja was clean.

**kiran_borra** · 08-19-2011, 11:28 PM

Originally posted by kariznin View Post

Hey Guys
Was searching over the internet about some useful upgrades for the bike and got to know about the MAGNETIC DRAIN BOLT.
The magnetic drain bolt attracts all the metal fillings or debris that are produced when the engine runs and thus improves it's life.
You can find more information on this here : Magnetic Oil Drain Plug Automotive Truck Motorcycle Industrial Engine.

Are any of you guys using this? What's your say on this and does it really help improving engine life ?

P.S. : Xena XX-xx users are you able to fit your XENA locks in the front or rear discs small holes or does it fits only to the big gaps that are there in the discs because I was not able to insert it in the small holes that are in discs. I am using XX6 model.
Also, does the alarm only buzz of when there is a little to -n- forth movement of the bike and discs move a little or it gets activated on slight sensation/touch to the bike ? As mine only gets activated when there is little to -n- forth movement of the bike or I intentionally touch the device. It doesn't gets activated when someone tries to touch the bike or lean over it.

Originally posted by harikeshpk View Post

there is no need for such a bolt for the ninja. the risk of the bolt spoiling the bike internal is far greater that what it may give due to a imperfect mod. even the first oil change on the ninja was clean.

I'm with Harikesh sir here buddy

As the ninja has the oil filter when engine oil circulates around, it passes through the filter everytime leaving any residue/filings inside the filter.
Thats the reason, the filter is changed after every service.

I made a fool out of myself spoiling my hand rubbing towards all the edges of the engine oil drain tray during my first service

After that oil bath, when I checked the oil filter, it had some very less and super fine black residue which I think should be the metal filings... Not sure though!

But I suppose this is the way oil filter is designed to work and does its job...
So with the minimal knowledge I have I suppose we would not need an additional magnetic bolt here

**Helios** · 08-21-2011, 11:45 AM

Guys, I took my bike to Tada yesterday, and as it was a sudden plan I could not fill petrol from the petrol pumps in the city sides, and we started real early. I used to fill from Shell petrol pumps but I could't fill from there too! On the return leg I was almost out of petrol and didn't get a petrol pump where they would get me something like Speed or something, so had to go with the damn normal fuel as i was almost outta petrol!

What happened is on the way back like 50kms from the end point when ever i switched off the bike using the Engine Kill Switch the bike has a delay shut down and gives a small vibration on the handle bars

Is it because of the petrol or something else is creating this problem?

**toolkit** · 08-21-2011, 11:54 AM

Guys, Has anybody used the Motul chain clean to clean their radiators. please throw some light on this, if it is okay to do so.

@Helios - using normal fuel should not be a problem till is unadulterated. not sure about this issue though but it may be that your spark plugs need cleaning - just a guess.
Also you must use the engine kill switch only in case of emergencies.

**kiran_borra** · 08-21-2011, 12:05 PM

Originally posted by toolkit View Post

Guys, Has anybody used the Motul chain clean to clean their radiators. please throw some light on this, if it is okay to do so.

@Helios - using normal fuel should not be a problem till is unadulterated. not sure about this issue though but it may be that your spark plugs need cleaning - just a guess.
Also you must use the engine kill switch only in case of emergencies.

Motul Chain clean is just a cleaning agent similar to petrol or diesel....

I don't think u'd need that for cleaning radiator

Just tap water with less pressure would be enough.... Take a soft tooth brush and scrub it vertically that should be more than enough I hope

@Helios: Thats true... I used normal fuel on my Ninja many times due to similar emergency situations and didn't face any problems.

**toolkit** · 08-21-2011, 12:45 PM

Originally posted by kiran_borra View Post

Motul Chain clean is just a cleaning agent similar to petrol or diesel....

I don't think u'd need that for cleaning radiator

Just tap water with less pressure would be enough.... Take a soft tooth brush and scrub it vertically that should be more than enough I hope

I think i'll drop that idea, It is clearly mentioned on the bottle that it is not intended for use other than on chains. And also it is highly flammable. Which means my radiator can catch fire while riding.

**Helios** · 08-21-2011, 06:14 PM

Originally posted by toolkit View Post

@Helios - using normal fuel should not be a problem till is unadulterated. not sure about this issue though but it may be that your spark plugs need cleaning - just a guess.
Also you must use the engine kill switch only in case of emergencies.

Originally posted by kiran_borra View Post

@Helios: Thats true... I used normal fuel on my Ninja many times due to similar emergency situations and didn't face any problems.

Thanx guys. I don't use the engine kill switch often. But when i just used it once i found such a vibration, so to check it if it happens again i switched off the bike using the engine kill switch thrice that to after some time interval only

So what might be the problem? the spark plugs? The bike was happy at 140 without any effort though!

**harsha645** · 08-21-2011, 09:44 PM

Originally posted by Helios View Post

Thanx guys. I don't use the engine kill switch often. But when i just used it once i found such a vibration, so to check it if it happens again i switched off the bike using the engine kill switch thrice that to after some time interval only

So what might be the problem? the spark plugs? The bike was happy at 140 without any effort though!

get it checked with the pbk..i havent felt anything like this till date and i run most of kms on my bike on normal fuel...

**n_aditya** · 08-22-2011, 12:03 AM

Originally posted by Helios View Post

So what might be the problem? the spark plugs? The bike was happy at 140 without any effort though!

Well your bike is running on bad quality fuel which the ECU has detected and has therefore retarded the timing.

Drain the fuel and tank up on premium fuel from a reputed bunk and you should be fine. Once the good fuel is in and you ride for a few kms the ECU will automatically correct the AFR and timing.

If you still face issues like sluggishness and knocking after riding for around 20-30kms then get the plugs checked at PBK.

**Helios** · 08-22-2011, 01:27 AM

Originally posted by n_aditya View Post

Well your bike is running on bad quality fuel which the ECU has detected and has therefore retarded the timing.

Drain the fuel and tank up on premium fuel from a reputed bunk and you should be fine. Once the good fuel is in and you ride for a few kms the ECU will automatically correct the AFR and timing.

If you still face issues like sluggishness and knocking after riding for around 20-30kms then get the plugs checked at PBK.

Well I have decided to drain the normal fuel! But...

Originally posted by harsha645 View Post

get it checked with the pbk..i havent felt anything like this till date and i run most of kms on my bike on normal fuel...

this part is confusing me bro. Even a few others said that, normal fuel doesn't affect their ride? And how come mine is creating an issue?

Please throw some light into this bro! And bro you have a tail tidy kit on your bike right? With the indicators on with the "L" bracket?

**trustvishwas** · 08-22-2011, 11:11 AM

I have ridden 20,000 km on normal fuel without even a single problem. Unless the fuel you filled up was adultrated, fuel would not be culprit in this instance.

**n_aditya** · 08-22-2011, 11:17 AM

Originally posted by Helios View Post

Well I have decided to drain the normal fuel! But...

this part is confusing me bro. Even a few others said that, normal fuel doesn't affect their ride? And how come mine is creating an issue?

Please throw some light into this bro! And bro you have a tail tidy kit on your bike right? With the indicators on with the "L" bracket?

The culprit is not normal fuel but bad quality fuel or adulterated fuel like I mentioned.

+1 Vishwas.

**Ananth** · 08-22-2011, 07:30 PM

My Bike vibrates and wobbles a bit at slow speeds. (Around 4-5k RPM) Could this be due to higher air pressure in front? (Mistakenly filled normal air + already filled nitrogen in front)

Rear was replaced this evening to Pirelli Sport Deamon 130 x 70 - 17 and filled Nitrogen as usual.

Or could it be the speedometer cable lubrication issue as pointed out in the earlier pages of this thread?

**Sarvajit** · 08-22-2011, 07:54 PM

Originally posted by Ananth View Post

My Bike vibrates and wobbles a bit at slow speeds. (Around 4-5k RPM) Could this be due to higher air pressure in front? (Mistakenly filled normal air + already filled nitrogen in front)

Rear was replaced this evening to Pirelli Sport Deamon 130 x 70 - 17 and filled Nitrogen as usual.

Or could it be the speedometer cable lubrication issue as pointed out in the earlier pages of this thread?

Somebody had posted about filling Nitrogen on a heated up tyre. Later, when the tyre cools down, the N2 expands, thereby increasing the pressure by about 5-6 psi.
Get it checked&adjusted accordingly if this is the case.

**Swaroop** · 08-22-2011, 08:40 PM

Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post

Somebody had posted about filling Nitrogen on a heated up tyre. Later, when the tyre cools down, the N2 expands, thereby increasing the pressure by about 5-6 psi.
Get it checked&adjusted accordingly if this is the case.

Are we suppose to maintain Nitrogen in the tyres all the time, coz i am using normal air ...kindly guide.

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