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Poll: How much mileage does your Pulsar 220 give?

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Thread: Pulsar 220 DTSI

  1. #11001
    Rusted zayn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smoker n doper View Post
    that was harsh !
    Thant wasn't harsh I forget to write don't mind
    thing you should do remove that stupid number plate and put some stylish plate like for example put front number plate like at the back and if you can do more buy a wider tire.
    Ride Safe & Ride Long-->
    Zayn

  2. #11002
    Rusted smoker n doper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zayn View Post
    Thant wasn't harsh I forget to write don't mind
    thing you should do remove that stupid number plate and put some stylish plate like for example put front number plate like at the back and if you can do more buy a wider tire.
    i dont want to mess with the performance of the bike by replacing the stock tyre with a heavier arse .... it was just a minor mod just for fun/a-change !
    i do have a stylish plate saying 220 + that front plate at the back would be illegal i guess and i dont want the police to catch me every now and then !
    anyways let it be !
    2003 - 2009 : Pulsar 150 Classic (Sold)
    2009 - Present : Pulsar 220 Dtsi
    2009 - Present : Honda Activa
    2016 - Present : KTM Duke 390

  3. #11003
    Rusted enfro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by avit.d View Post
    As far as I know, Yamalube is 15w50 Motul ( 5100 ss oil ), repacked, whereas Valvoline 4T Premium Synthetic Blend is 20w50 ss oil.
    so, i think mixing of two different grades may play a dirty game with your engine. I am using Valvoline it is a good one, but gear shifts feels harder than 15w50 motul.

    Exp. riders may suggest some better way, but i think you should change your engine oil
    Hmmm.....Thanks mate....didnt give attention to that
    Quite possible that this may be the culprit. Will change asap

  4. #11004
    Addicted kshitij22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devilpulsarian View Post
    Motul 5100 is 'just' decent and overpriced..!

    Fuel knob/Reserve thing is really notorious on 220...!

    Sometimes my bike runs for zillions of kms before coming to a halt and sometimes it halts even with the smell of petrol...
    letz say, we got ourselvez a notorious beast, now it has also got a mind of it's own

    OT: instead of Motul, if we use Shell Advance 20W50, how is it gonna prove with the engine? any experience
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Pulsating the 220.... ////

  5. #11005
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    [QUOTE=kshitij22;529090]letz say, we got ourselvez a notorious beast, now it has also got a mind of it's own

    OT: instead of Motul, if we use Shell Advance 20W50, how is it gonna prove with the engine? any experience[/QUOTE

    can 20w50 prove to be a bit of trouble in winter?

    My Air filter cleaning symbol appears after 200kms of riding each time..... probiking people says it's ok, air filter need no cleaning more sooner than 2000kms..... but it's a bit annoying, any suggestions...

  6. #11006
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    Quote Originally Posted by abhayshanu View Post
    Abbe, just change the Sensor Wire, thats it, nothing else.
    Should be under warranty.
    Thanks 4 the reply dude. But can u tell me the price of the sensor though it is under warranty....N what about my avg? its 28kmpl..riding around 80kmph on highways..How can i get better F.E.? DO i have to check CO%? or anythng else?
    Who needs a stereo when you've got a throttle ? ( Time to turn up the volume.)

  7. #11007
    Addicted qwerty_rm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ameya220 View Post
    Thanks 4 the reply dude. But can u tell me the price of the sensor though it is under warranty....N what about my avg? its 28kmpl..riding around 80kmph on highways..How can i get better F.E.? DO i have to check CO%? or anything else?
    The Sensor Cable shouldn't cost you more than 200/-
    And for Better Efficiency, Make sure your tires are Filled with proper air pressure, most preferably 32 PSI Rear and 28 PSI Front.....Fill them with Nitrogen as more of Nitrogen in your tire will help keep it cooler over long runs, since its an inert gas.... Make sure you don't Accelerate by twisting the Throttle completely, go easy and Follow the engine response..... Get your CO% Checked....it should be in the range of 2.8 - 3.2 %..... Also avoid usage of clutch except when changing gears.... be in the right gear appropriate to your speed...

  8. #11008
    Addicted qwerty_rm's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=avit.d;529225]
    Quote Originally Posted by kshitij22 View Post
    letz say, we got ourselvez a notorious beast, now it has also got a mind of it's own

    OT: instead of Motul, if we use Shell Advance 20W50, how is it gonna prove with the engine? any experience[/QUOTE

    can 20w50 prove to be a bit of trouble in winter?

    My Air filter cleaning symbol appears after 200kms of riding each time..... probiking people says it's ok, air filter need no cleaning more sooner than 2000kms..... but it's a bit annoying, any suggestions...
    Ask them to check whether the Air filter is not Dirty and in its Right place not hanging or elsewer

  9. #11009
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    Default Tires!

    So what's the Best Tried and Tested set of Tires for the Beast?!?!?
    The Home made Soft Compound Rubber Sets from MRF?!?!?
    The Other Soft Compound IRC's imported from outside?!?!?
    Or The new comer Siracs?!?!?

    I guess what I'm looking for in answers is total overall Grip (dry, wet, dusty and rough road conditions also with a little offroading ) Monsoon ride-ability and how well it fits our bike without any major changes in overall kerb weight of the bike as well as performance.......

    I own the IRC sets.....done with 13K kms on the odo...
    Tire thread pattern 40% gone......I guess it'll last just another monsoon atleast......
    Overall Grip - 7/10 (Dry grip 8.5/10; wet grip 5.5/10)
    The front tire's thread pattern is simply awesome in the monsoons.....it really grips the road well in any condition except under heavy braking (even when on dry tarmac & concrete) where it can lose grip and lock the front easily.....while the rear is rather delicate....at speeds of over 90+kph it experiences hydroplaning very easily and the thread pattern looks like its cut out from the solid block of rubber rather than the inter block build pattern of the MRF's....so in the monsoons while the front grips; the rear drifts!!! In dry conditions there's sufficient grip for leaning easily even in low speeds....but throw in dust and you lose grip easily again and that can lead to cautious scary moments....!!!
    Till date 0 Puntures up front.....while 5 on the Rear!!! 3 last week itself !!!
    PS - I've filled them With Nitrogen....! 32 PSI Rear and 28 PSI Front.....! Ride 70% solo with 30% with Pillion.....

  10. #11010
    Moderator antz.bin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kshitij22 View Post
    OT: instead of Motul, if we use Shell Advance 20W50, how is it gonna prove with the engine? any experience
    how is ^^^that^^^ OT? Thats precisely the topic we should be discussing.
    Coming to your query.. is it is Shell Advance(and not Shell Helix) and it is 20w50, I don't see any problems.. Anyways, why don't you try it out. But be sure if the particular oil you are buying is mineral / semi synth / or fully synth. The change interval for each should be as follows

    Oil Type : Change interval
    Mineral : 1000km (or every month) eg. Motul 3000 20w50, Crapstrol Power 1 20w50, Mak 4T 20w50 (BPCL)
    Semi Synthetic : 2500km (or every 2.5 months) eg. Valvoline 4T Premium Synthetic Blend 20w50, Motul 5100T 15w50, DTSi 10000 [Use only after completion of 2.5k km on the odo]
    Fully Synthetic : 5000km (or every 5 months) Motul 300v 15w50 [Use only after completion of 5k km on the odo]

    The engine oil drain intervals mentioned in the User Manual are a load of bullcr@p.

    As per the Shell Advance - Products - India page, I don't see any 20w50 engine oil in their catalog. So make doubly sure what you are buying is in fact genuine. If you have in fact managed to find 'Shell Advance Ultra 20w50'.. It should be the Fully synthetic though I would be skeptical. My suggestion, stick to mineral / DTSi 10000 till you move to Nasik. When you do, I ll guide you to my oil guy. Till that time, take care running the baby in. You don't need synthetic oils till you are done running in.

    P.S.: Stop worrying about engine oils now.

    Quote Originally Posted by avit.d View Post
    can 20w50 prove to be a bit of trouble in winter?
    As for you query about 15w50, the value '15' will be of help over '20' in cold weather ONLY if you stay in the Himalayas / in colder countries like northern Europe or Canada. In winters elsewhere in India(a tropical country) this particular value doesn't matter much.

    The value prior to the 'w' (i.e. 15 in 15w50) refers to the viscosity of the engine oil @ 0deg Celsius temperature. Be worried only if you see that very often. The value after the 'w' (i.e. 50 in 15w50) refers to the viscosity at 100deg Celsius (Just FYI).

    Quote Originally Posted by enfro View Post
    Hmmm.....Thanks mate....didnt give attention to that
    Quite possible that this may be the culprit. Will change asap
    Buddy I have mixed 5100T with 300v (Motuls) and it didn't make any difference at all. Just check if your oil is not older than the above mentioned intervals.

    Hard to find Neutral? Hard gears on a new bike?
    Refer solution here

    http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/572236-post12776.html

    Thank You Hitman (Imran) for your effort.
    Quote Originally Posted by qwerty_rm View Post
    So what's the Best Tried and Tested set of Tires for the Beast?!?!?
    The Home made Soft Compound Rubber Sets from MRF?!?!?
    The Other Soft Compound IRC's imported from outside?!?!?
    Or The new comer Siracs?!?!?

    I guess what I'm looking for in answers is total overall Grip (dry, wet, dusty and rough road conditions also with a little offroading ) Monsoon ride-ability and how well it fits our bike without any major changes in overall kerb weight of the bike as well as performance.......

    I own the IRC sets.....done with 13K kms on the odo...
    Tire thread pattern 40% gone......I guess it'll last just another monsoon atleast......
    Overall Grip - 7/10 (Dry grip 8.5/10; wet grip 5.5/10)
    The front tire's thread pattern is simply awesome in the monsoons.....it really grips the road well in any condition except under heavy braking (even when on dry tarmac & concrete) where it can lose grip and lock the front easily.....while the rear is rather delicate....at speeds of over 90+kph it experiences hydroplaning very easily and the thread pattern looks like its cut out from the solid block of rubber rather than the inter block build pattern of the MRF's....so in the monsoons while the front grips; the rear drifts!!! In dry conditions there's sufficient grip for leaning easily even in low speeds....but throw in dust and you lose grip easily again and that can lead to cautious scary moments....!!!
    Till date 0 Puntures up front.....while 5 on the Rear!!! 3 last week itself !!!
    PS - I've filled them With Nitrogen....! 32 PSI Rear and 28 PSI Front.....! Ride 70% solo with 30% with Pillion.....
    Thanks for the review for the IRC (RX-01 120/80 R17 ?)

    Rear Tyre Options

    Best on road tyre- Pirelli Sport Demon 130/70: Rs.3300 to 3500.
    Best on-off road tyre Michelin Sirac 120/90: Rs.2700 (The expert recommended touring tyre)
    Best among the stock size MRF Zapper VYDE 120/80: 120/80 Rs.2550

    Other Options:
    Stock MRF Zapper C: 120/80 Rs.2450, More than decent dry and wet grip on tarmac. Average grip off road. Rubbish in slush(personal experience) (well almost everything is.. thats why it is called slush). I have done 130odd on this tyre on tarmac (NH 4) in a torrential downpour(maybe cloudburst) in the dark at 10.30/11PM. Thats the kind of confidence it gave me in the wet on tarmac. No aquaplaning. And believe me, I have ridden A LOT this monsoon.

    Its a good thing you are using Nitrogen. Really helps a lot in maintaining tyre pressure, in effect increasing tyre life.

    Also, For the record:

    Front Tyre Options

    Stock MRF Zapper FS 90/90
    IRC Wild Flare 90/90
    IRC MB-99 100/90
    FZ16 MRF Zapper FX 100/80
    R15 MRF Zapper FY 80/90

    @All new owners: I hope everyone is lubing their chain every 500km / 8 days with Motul / OKS / Paras / TVS / Diamond Chain Lube Spray OR SAE 90 (Gear) oil. This part is very very important if you want good performance of the bike and good life of the chain and sprocket.

    Anyways, If you are unable to find the above mentioned chain lube(s) fret not, the chain can also be lubed with Sundrop oil / Saffola oil / Parachute hair oil / used engine oil / unused engine oil (for that matter any kind of oil) in case of emergencies. The only issue with using 'emergency only' oils is that you have to lube the chain (much) more often than 500km/8 days. This part is very important and lubing the chain hardly takes 30 seconds so don't be lazy about it.

    IMPORTANT: It is usually recommended to lube the chain with the engine off, bike in neutral and turning the rear wheel by hand. As while lubing the chain, the chain, the sprocket and your fingers are very close together, upmost care should be taken as we don't want chopped off/crushed fingers. Believe me there have been such incidents with our fellow P220 owners.

    Finally, ride safe, wear a helmet and enjoy riding your Fastest Indians.
    Last edited by antz.bin; 02-05-2011 at 01:34 AM. Reason: Added stuff.
    ankurjain likes this.
    Advice is a form of nostalgia.
    Dispensing it is a way of fishing the past from the disposal, wiping it off, painting over the ugly parts and recycling it for more than it's worth.

    Antz Travelz!! | South India Exploration Ride | Leh Triplog (Work in progress)

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