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Apache RTR/FI

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  • prd8r
    replied
    Re: Apache RTR/FI

    Hey all RTR 160 owners

    Could you tell me the following 160 settings
    1) the valve gap settings for inlet and exhaust and
    2) the spark plug type and model no
    3) carb jets nos for pilot and main jets

    Thanks in advance.

    Leave a comment:


  • ajextreme
    replied
    Re: Apache RTR/FI

    To all RTR FI owners - i urgently need a Starter Motor assy for my bike. The mechanic whom i had given the bike for service has taken the part from my bike and used it on another RTR for racing purpose. He hasnt come to the garage for last 20 days and neither i can get hold of the other bike. If anyone has a spare or can lend me Starter motor for a couple of days (only if you are not using the bike or has been lying around idle). I will return the part once i get hold of the mechanic. Its been more than a month that i have not been able to use my beloved bike and its really frustrating when someone can be so irresponsible. i do not have the money to buy a new one. Maybe someone can suggest a good used part which i can buy cheap.

    i stay in bangalore, contact me on 9663301090 if someone can help.

    Leave a comment:


  • Balgi
    replied
    Re: Apache RTR/FI

    Originally posted by chiragwarm View Post
    i have changed both throttle cables yesterday. The choke is stuck at its position, it comes only half way. Let me try changings it's wires too.
    And yes the bike is faster and more aggressive now but I knw it will end up drinking a lot of fuel.

    What I was wondering that since Ive already spent a lot and taken a lot of trouble, why not simple replace this carburator? Will the new carburator bring Fuel / Air mixture to its old factory setting?

    Yes but don't expect the new carb to be perfectly tuned right out of the box. It'll have to be tuned right to restore factory settings.

    Leave a comment:


  • chiragwarm
    replied
    Re: Apache RTR/FI

    Originally posted by Balgi View Post
    Well I suggest before you do anything else you get rid of your mechanic coz anyone who says sudden rpm spiking is a clutch plate issue doesn't deserve to be within 50feet of a bike.The carb is the problem. I think the carb float is getting stuck resulting in too much fuel going in. Also check and replace throttle and choke cables. Might solve the problem.
    i have changed both throttle cables yesterday. The choke is stuck at its position, it comes only half way. Let me try changings it's wires too.
    And yes the bike is faster and more aggressive now but I knw it will end up drinking a lot of fuel.

    What I was wondering that since Ive already spent a lot and taken a lot of trouble, why not simple replace this carburator? Will the new carburator bring Fuel / Air mixture to its old factory setting?

    Leave a comment:


  • Balgi
    replied
    Re: Apache RTR/FI

    Originally posted by chiragwarm View Post
    My bike was stranded in open ground from Feb till esterday.

    Everything was jammed. Replaced a few things and got it 'serviced' from a mechanic. Put a lot of WD40 on everything.

    The ride is roughest ever in four years. Its making noises 'Gad gad gad gad' taq taq ta gad taq while riding.

    real issue now-

    Mechanic told me carburator settings are tampered and fuel screw is jammed and half rusted. Impossible to turn in any way round.

    1. I start my bike, its at 1.5K, the ride starts, when say Im in 2nd gear at 30 & I decide to change gear to 3rd and press clutch, immediately suddenly RPM goes upto 4K and beyond. I slowly release clutch and then it comes back to normal. This happens even when I plan to brake.

    **Mechanic says this is because my clutch plates are gone, without even looking at it**

    what Im thinking-

    1. Should I buy a new carburator so I dont get this sudden 4K rpm issue and so that Air Fuel mixture is at factory setting?
    2. Or is this sudden 4K beyond rpm due to clutch plates?
    clutch wire changed 1K kms ago.

    Well I suggest before you do anything else you get rid of your mechanic coz anyone who says sudden rpm spiking is a clutch plate issue doesn't deserve to be within 50feet of a bike.
    The carb is the problem. I think the carb float is getting stuck resulting in too much fuel going in. Also check and replace throttle and choke cables. Might solve the problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • chiragwarm
    replied
    Re: Apache RTR/FI

    My bike was stranded in open ground from Feb till esterday.

    Everything was jammed. Replaced a few things and got it 'serviced' from a mechanic. Put a lot of WD40 on everything.

    The ride is roughest ever in four years. Its making noises 'Gad gad gad gad' taq taq ta gad taq while riding.

    real issue now-

    Mechanic told me carburator settings are tampered and fuel screw is jammed and half rusted. Impossible to turn in any way round.

    1. I start my bike, its at 1.5K, the ride starts, when say Im in 2nd gear at 30 & I decide to change gear to 3rd and press clutch, immediately suddenly RPM goes upto 4K and beyond. I slowly release clutch and then it comes back to normal. This happens even when I plan to brake.

    **Mechanic says this is because my clutch plates are gone, without even looking at it**

    what Im thinking-

    1. Should I buy a new carburator so I dont get this sudden 4K rpm issue and so that Air Fuel mixture is at factory setting?
    2. Or is this sudden 4K beyond rpm due to clutch plates?
    clutch wire changed 1K kms ago.

    Leave a comment:


  • ajextreme
    replied
    Re: RTR 160 AFR Fuel screw setting

    Originally posted by Rahul.g View Post
    I have installed 2 led foglights on the crash guard.
    They are 10w each and provide very good light and dont consume much power but they may not be as reliable as a hid or a halogen, one of the fog lamps has went kaput 2 times.
    So if you are to invest in leds, be sure to buy something that has warrenty.

    P.S - my bike's coil has been rewinded and the RR unit has been changed to piaggo ape's RR unit, thus i dont face any battery draining issue.
    Im not sure how it will work on stock RTR

    Sent from my C5502 using xBhp Connect mobile app
    Thanks for that buddy. Can you show some of the pics of your bike fitted with those lamps. My idea is to install it right below the headlamps on either side and just above the number plates. Use the shock rods right behind for clamps. Also will get it DC to the battery. Only will have to ensure electricals are not meddled with.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rahul.g
    replied
    Re: RTR 160 AFR Fuel screw setting

    Originally posted by ajextreme View Post
    Hi Guys, has anyone installed additional headlamps to RTR 160? I am not talking about HID conversion or Projectors. Any advise would be appreciated. I am looking to install something similar to the image attached:
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]163426[/ATTACH]
    I have installed 2 led foglights on the crash guard.
    They are 10w each and provide very good light and dont consume much power but they may not be as reliable as a hid or a halogen, one of the fog lamps has went kaput 2 times.
    So if you are to invest in leds, be sure to buy something that has warrenty.

    P.S - my bike's coil has been rewinded and the RR unit has been changed to piaggo ape's RR unit, thus i dont face any battery draining issue.
    Im not sure how it will work on stock RTR

    Sent from my C5502 using xBhp Connect mobile app
    Last edited by Rahul.g; 11-12-2014, 04:42 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • ajextreme
    replied
    Re: RTR 160 AFR Fuel screw setting

    Hi Guys, has anyone installed additional headlamps to RTR 160? I am not talking about HID conversion or Projectors. Any advise would be appreciated. I am looking to install something similar to the image attached:
    Click image for larger version

Name:	HLamps.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	8.3 KB
ID:	1895663

    Leave a comment:


  • shojolbd
    replied
    RTR 160 AFR Fuel screw setting

    Help please, My Apache RTR 150 white 2014 model is giving me a very poor mileage of 29-31kmpl only. Checked the plug and its black. The Carburetor is same as RTR 160CC. It is set at 1.8 full turns but still very rich AFR. What is the FACTORY DEFAULT setting of the Apache RTR 160cc Carb ot what is the optimum setting for performance and fuel economy? How many turns? Thanks


    Sent from my GT-N7100 using xBhp Connect mobile app

    Leave a comment:


  • ShaikUmmerFaruk
    replied
    Re: Apache rtr engine overheat after oil change

    Hi All,

    Thanks much for all your responses. I drained out the engine oil and replaced with TVS recommended 10w30.

    Now, the bike seems to like the oil and the response is also good.

    Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Divya Sharan
    replied
    Re: Apache rtr engine overheat after oil change

    Originally posted by devils_friend View Post
    From my experience of using a thicker grade engine oil, my bike use to heat up and I would feel the engine to be sluggish. So, to that context I said.
    Ah! Got your context now. So you were referring to the rev friendly nature in your post, which I agree to; yes! But not bad for the engine, unless you're jumping across grades like w30 to w50. That'd hurt!

    @TS - can you ride for 20-50 odd km and post a pic of your spark plug?

    Leave a comment:


  • devils_friend
    replied
    Re: Apache rtr engine overheat after oil change

    Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post
    How's the engine undergoing more stress here sir jee? Base grade is still 10. Infact 10w40 would fare better (read w.r.t lubing) at higher temps compared to 10w30. Isn't it?

    For the TS - read @prateek2210's post here - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post859822

    Also, check for:
    1. Carb settings/AF ratio. Mechanics do lean the mix for *better* mileage figures without asking!
    2. Air filter condition.
    3. Oil level. I hope the correct quantity was filled in.
    From my experience of using a thicker grade engine oil, my bike use to heat up and I would feel the engine to be sluggish. So, to that context I said.

    Just like Hero / Honda bikes have 10W30 grade and if you use 10W40, if they use 10W40 grade, engine tends to feel sluggish and heating issue creeps up.

    PS: You know better about Hero bikes then me

    Cheerz!!
    Last edited by devils_friend; 10-13-2014, 06:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Divya Sharan
    replied
    Re: Apache rtr engine overheat after oil change

    Originally posted by visco View Post
    Semi synthetic oils are marketed cleverly and will not do any good and avoid it. Perhaps it will neither perform like Mineral nor Synthetic.
    Obviously, SS won't perform like a mineral or FS, because it is SS by nature. Mineral oils get bad within 1500-2000 kms and SS oils just provide those extra 500-700 kms of lubrication.
    Also, Shell AX7 is not purely SS, but a highly refined mineral oil.

    P.S - I don't work for Shell, just that I have used a couple of engine oils from their stable for quite long and extremely pleased with the results.

    Leave a comment:


  • visco
    replied
    Re: Apache rtr engine overheat after oil change

    Originally posted by ShaikUmmerFaruk View Post
    Hi All,

    I own Apache RTR 160 and have completed 8000 kms. Till date I was using the TVS engine oil. As i felt lot of vibrations on top gear and after reading lot of discussion on the same, i wanted to give it a shot by changing the engine oil. I changed the engine oil to Shell AX7 10W40 semi synthetic.

    After the oil change, i am facing engine over heat issue. I can feel the heat all the way up to the tank. The overheating is only after i changed the oil. Never i have experienced it before.

    Can you please suggest a solution for the issue ?
    If you are a regular commuter just using normal Mineral oil with correct grade of your bike is more than good. Only if you rip your bike mercilessly use genuine synthetic oil(beware : lot of duplicates in the market). Synthetic oils for a normal commute do not have any advantage.
    Semi synthetic oils are marketed cleverly and will not do any good and avoid it. Perhaps it will neither perform like Mineral nor Synthetic.

    Immediately drain out the oil and fill it with TVS recommended grade of genuine Mineral oil. Your bike will feel more happy.

    Leave a comment:

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