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Thread: Achievement Unlocked: North East and Bhutan explored over 18 days

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    Default Achievement Unlocked: North East and Bhutan explored over 18 days

    Why do we ride?
    Is it because we can? Is it to experience freedom in ways that most people will never understand? Is it the closest we get to flying without wings? Is it for the serene lonliness you feel when youre one with the road and the machine? Is it the proximity to the environment around you as a biker, that raw unfiltered chaos that envelops you as you ride into the countrys distant lands? Or is it a combination of all of these reasons and more?

    The greatest thing is to find that you are not alone in this sort of madness that bites some of us and that sometimes, a group of friends that you have can share the same zeal, passion and hunger for exploring the lesser known and make an adventure out of it.
    The following is the story of how one such group of friends came together, and for 19 days toured the North East, through Assam, Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh and continuing to Bhutan and back on two bikes and a Car.

    Dramatis Personae:

    Varun: a (shockingly) 31 year old PHd student at XLRI Jamshedpur, originally from Kerala who had previously worked for Bajaj motors and drives and cares for his dear Ford Figo. Varun has previously driven a lot of long distances and regularly tours around Jamshedpur. He most recently drove to Bhutan and back as well. Although for reasons he could not join us on this trip all throughout, he lent his car to us to use.

    Divya: she only learnt what a navigator is when she started the trip but by the time she ended she was an ace in finding directions and distances and the best possible routes all the while being in charge of operating the hazard lights for the bikers following. She will also be a PHd from XLRI.

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    Varun and Divya

    Kaushik AKA KJ: a mallu tamilian brought up in the hallowed halls of Vidyashala in Mysore, KJ has taken to riding ever since he got his hands on his Brothers Pulsar 150 and latched on a motocross helmet and rode up with me to Gopalswami hills. He has since done some insane riding, and goes by the name kaushik60 on this forum. You can read about some of his early rides here. KJ rides a Pulsar 220F and just finished wasting two years of his time playing basketball and drums at XLRI Jamshedpur.

    Praveena AKA PD: PD is pure energy bottled into a human form and also plays mother and director to the group. Although relatively less experienced, through the trip she proves to be a navigator par excellence and a pillion of the Order of the IronButt. She is a whiz at finding/evaluating and negotiating with hotels to get amazing prices. She was also the treasurer of the group.

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    KJ and PD

    Mathew Paul AKA Matt: Matt is a former Bajaj employee from Cochin and rides a Honda CBR 250R. Matt is no stranger to days of constant mile munching and hates frequent breaks for pee and tea. Matt loves Momos almost as much as he loves taking corners and can be trusted to finish off any exra food weve ordered.

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    Matt

    Gloria davis AKA Glo: Glo is a civil engineer who first worked in financial markets, then did her MBA specialising in HR and is now going to join Airtel! Having recently procured a Nikon DSLR, she becomes the official photographer of our group. A constant pillion on Matts CBR, she often takes over the mantle guiding the car driver through the path of least pothole-ness as an when road ditches begin to resemble lunar craters.

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    Glo

    Atasi: atas is a mechanical engineer who will shortly work for Flipkart. She is by far the most experienced pillion and her skills for keeping calm balance through fast corners as well as straight roads is stuff of legend. She is also the loudest and the most excitable of the group and demands neck rubs like its her birthright.

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    Atas

    Finally me:
    Hi, My name is Arjun. Im from Mysore but shuttle back and forth between Mysore and Bangalore for work. I run a travel startup and help plan customized holidays within India. Im 25 years old and admittedly gotten used to my car for touring over the last few years, and have decided to go back to my roots of being a biker at heart. I will be collaborating with KJ for putting this travelogue out.

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    The Machines:

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    L-R: Varun's Figo, KJ's Pulsar 220f "Muttulatchumi" and Matt's CBR 250R "Rachel"

    The route:

    Jamshedpur Bhagalpur Jalpaiguri Guwahati Cherrapunji guwahati Sela tawang Guwahati Phuentsoling Thimphu Paro Phuentsoling Siliguri - Deogarh Jamshedpur.

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    Total Distance clocked: 4370km

    Day zero:
    The lush green campus of XLRI Jamshedpur wore a deserted look on the 28th of February, 2015 as Varun and I took the Car and KJs Pulsar 220 to the fuel pump to tank them up as we were to leave early the next day. As circumstances would have it, 4 of the 5 people who would be starting the trip the next day were on a train in the middle of Chattisgarh and expected to reach Jamshedpur only at around midnight. I bought some spare cables for both the Pulsar and the CBR. I tried to do some dusting and realised it was a futile effort against the industrial landscape of Jamshedpur.

    The car was in mint condition. Newly serviced, washed and with new brake pads, new suspension, new rear tires and even new wiper blades!
    Following a lovely dinner party thrown by Divya i settled in for a fitful nights sleep that is resultant of the excitement of the trip due to begin the next day. 11:40 AM and still no sign of the others.

    Day one:

    As we gathered in front of the Mother Teresa Residence at XLRI, lining up the bikes and the car, we were faced with an immediate problem. TOO much luggage! It was going to be okay on the first phase of the trip where it would be just 5 of us but we quickly realised that we would be slightly cramped for space when the rest of the folks joined in. However, in the true spirit of Managers, we decided to soldier on and deal with the problems if and when they arose.

    We quickly put on our gear and decided a route and the formation. KJ and PD in the car would lead, Me on the p220 wouuld follow and Matt and Glo on the CBR would sweep, in a standard 2 second staggered formation. By 7 AM, we were seen off by a yawning Varun and Divya. Our convoy left and within 10 seconds of starting the ride, even before we left the gates of XLRI, my pulsar started misfiring and slowed to a halt...


    to be continued...

  2. #2
    Moderator The Monk's Avatar
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    Default Re: Achievement Unlocked: North East and Bhutan explored over 18 days

    Travelogue Approved

    Awesome stuff, waiting for the rest
    Biking is not about what you have between your legs, its all about how well you use it!!!!!!!

    Give your details here if you want to help your fellow xBhpian stranded in your city

    Touring Blog: Cycling in Mongolia!

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    Default Re: Achievement Unlocked: North East and Bhutan explored over 18 days

    Nice start. Bring on the rest!

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    Default Re: Achievement Unlocked: North East and Bhutan explored over 18 days

    Everytime i read a trip log, i always feel so frustrated solely because of the lack of such like minded people around me. The moment i tell lets do a bike ride, everybody goes silent. Anyway i have decided solo is the best for me. I dont have to wait for anyone and i can plan my entire trip without having to worry about anyone. Great going there guys. keep it coming.
    Ravikiran likes this.
    Everybody has their own version of TRUTH!!!!!!

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    Default Re: Achievement Unlocked: North East and Bhutan explored over 18 days

    Good going there. Awaiting to read the rest of this travelogue which has got off to a super beginning. My riding friend from Pune, JP Singh is also just back from Bhutan and I eagerly await to meet him this weekend and catch up on his experience. He is a partner of motomonks which specialises in motorcycle touring.
    Ride To Live

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    Default Re: Achievement Unlocked: North East and Bhutan explored over 18 days

    Hooked on....keep it flowing mate
    Live to ride, ride to live

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    Default Re: Achievement Unlocked: North East and Bhutan explored over 18 days

    Day one: Jamshedpur to Bhagalpur

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    We set off from XLRI at 7 AM, with KJ and PD in the car, leading, me following and Matt and Glo sweeping. Immediately I sensed the bike stuttering and then realised that I had forgotten to set the fuel cock to Mains. It was a good thing that I was wearing the helmet with the sun visor on and nobody could see my face go red with embarrassment.

    It was the first time that I was riding with this particular group and it took us a while to get adjusted to each others pace. We kept a steady speed as we entered the half empty Adityapur highway and only then did we open up the throttle. Very soon, we were managing a lovely 90kmph with pretty good distances between us. Or so I thought.
    About half an hour into the ride as we left the four lane concrete roads and entered Jharkhands single lane highways, KJ slowed down and beckoned me to the drivers side door. Hoping for a chai break or something, I pulled up alongside only to be told off by him for following too close.

    Having been rebuked, I settled into a bigger gap between myself and the car and we rode on, past endless railway crossings and beautiful overbridges when my stomach started growling.

    Now, there are two very important things that i CANNOT do. Math, and Riding on an empty stomach. I become completely dysfunctional and start mistakes. So, I was really happy when KJ finally pulled over next to an eatery for chai. It soon turned into breakfast as well. After downing many cups of chai, we set off again through the narrow highways of Jharkhand.

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    Half of those were Glo's

    The one thing that struck us was the sheer number of level crossings on this stretch. It was almost as if every curve on the road had a railway line bisecting it. As luck would have it, we got caught at almost all of these level crossings, that were mainly closed to allow shunting of solitary Locos.
    These frequent breaks were quite irritating but helped squeeze in another quick chai break.

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    Fresh samosas too!

    We eventually arrived at the Asansol bypass and we stopped at a petrol pump for bio breaks, while KJ went ahead and gathered local intelligence on road conditions and which route to take to get into Bhagalpur smoothly.

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    We decided to trust Google instead, which has confused dried river beds for roads! Having suddenly run out of road, Matt and I had to get off the bikes to go scout ahead to see if the car could make it on that terrain. We also entertained thoughts of crossing a small rivulet for which the bridge was half constructed too...


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    After fighting our way through more narrow roads, blind corners and passing what looked like abandoned villages, we finally reached the main highway just about 100km from Bhagalpur. We stopped at around 3PM for lunch at a nondescript Dhaba and lost count of the number of Rotis we managed to demolish, accompanied by some excellent Paneer Masala and Dal Tadka.

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    Insane amounts of food was consumed

    With less than 100km to go, our spirits were high as according to our calculation, wed be in Bhagalpur in a couple of hours at max as there were no more deviations and I had agreed to have no more chai breaks. We set off at around 4:45 again, with KJ leading the way. Less than a minute later i saw the hazard lights come on as the car sank into a crater almost 3 feet deep. Having shaken it off, we arrived shortly at yet another set of potholes which prompted us to ride on the shoulder while the car took another pounding.

    The sunlight was quickly fading and we soon realised that we were stuck on horror highway on some sort of weird time loop as the pattern of Crater Bridge Crater kept repeating itself.

    The going got so slow that Matt and I decided to ride ahead of the car in an effort to warn him of the size of craters ahead.

    Eventually, it got comepletely dark and the highway was lit up exclusively by the high beams of the buses and trucks from the opposite lane. After almost three hours of that mayhem, we pulled up for a stop to evaluate the situation. News from PD our star navigator was that she seemed to have found another route which would add about 10km but her gut instinct said it would be smoother than the road we were already on. Realizing that it couldn't get any worse, we agreed and set off into the parallel road.
    At this point, visibility was very low because of the dust kicked up by the vehicles around and the complete lack of street lighting. I fell back and was wondering how I could manage the 30 odd km into Bhagalpur when Gloria stepped up and saved the day. Sitting pillion with Matt, for two hours straight she would scan the road ahead, identify the craters and with a combination of hand signals she would point them to me and suggest lines to take while Matt put his head down and ploughed relentlessly on. I went into a sort of trance just focussing on the reflecting lining on Glos jacket sleeves as they guided my way. We rolled though tiny town roads clogged up by trucks parked on one side in a line for about 15km out of Bhagalpur. These were trucks that were waiting to cross the Ganga in the morning.
    Driving through this madness, we finally arrived at Bhagalpur town just in time to be thwarted by yet another level crossing! To further compound our misery, a private volvo bus and a fancy Scorpio decided to be complete idiots and caused a jam on the tracks when the gates opened. At this point, we are all too tired to be pissed off so we ended up laughing at ourselves and at humanity in general.

    When the traffic finally cleared, we drove into complete madness with a cacophony of different horns assaulting our ears as we slowly made our way through the town. There was time for just one more kick when KJ stopped at a random market, because MapMyIndia insisted that we had arrived at our hotel. After some calls and directions from the locals, we finally arrived at Hotel Bhawna International.

    PD was already at the counter striking a fantastic bargain with the receptionist when Matt and I staggered into the lobby with the saddle bags and luggage from the car.
    We quickly showered and met up for dinner at the restaurant, which we wolfed down. We hit the sack shortly afterward, as we had an early start the next day, to Siliguri!

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    Default Re: Achievement Unlocked: North East and Bhutan explored over 18 days

    Fascinating tale of rural India. Waiting for the next installment.

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    Default Re: Achievement Unlocked: North East and Bhutan explored over 18 days

    Good stuff there, keep it flowin'
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    Default Re: Achievement Unlocked: North East and Bhutan explored over 18 days

    Day 2 : Bhagalpur to Jalpaiguri

    All plans for an early start were shattered as the faint sounds of traffic outside our hotel woke us up at a fantastic 6:30 AM instead of the planned 4:30 or so.

    As we lazily walked around the room slowly getting ready, KJ and I strode over to the balcony to take in the sights of Bhagalpur. We were greeted by a pretty sight of a huge line of trucks waiting to cross the Ganga bridge. However, in a few short minutes, this turned into horror for us as some of the trucks in front of us began to warm up their engines preparing to move out.

    Not wanting to get stuck behind the line, we abandoned all plans for breakfast in the hotel and hurried out into the parking lot. I didnt have to put on all the gear as it was my turn in the car today, so I slipped out and got the car out of the parking area JUST as the trucks in front of us began to move slowly.

    It was a funny sight, looking at Matt and Gloria waving me on urgently hoping I would clear the traffic, and PD very kindly joined me in the car navigating me out of Bhagalpur city.

    It was a mad dash, and admittedly, the strangest drive for me as the entire traffic seemed to consist of trucks on one side and me overtaking on the other side. The city was yet to wake up, and this was a blessing, as within a few short minutes I was clear and in a glorious moment, entered the bridge.

    The vast expanse of the river beneath us was breath-taking and all, but frankly, I couldnt enjoy it all that much as the road surface on the bridge is PATHETIC. For the kind of traffic that the bridge handles, I was hoping it would have better maintenance, but sadly, that wasnt meant to be.

    Eventually, we crossed the bridge, and arrived on the other side, waiting for the bikers to catch up.

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    View from Chai stop

    I was half way through my first chai when they turned up with cheeky grins on their faces having crossed the first big river and beating the traffic to start off the day where we had to reach Jalpaiguri about 330km away. After another round of chai, we were about to set off when another piece of local intelligence suggested we take a smaller deviation through some villages to connect to the highway.

    So we took a right turn into the village road, ignoring the protests of MapMyIndia which kept insisting I take every available turn back onto the main road. Having passed a few villages on the narrow tar road, I got stuck behind an auto carrying approximately the entire population of a small school going at approximately 1km per year. I had to be patient as overtaking was not a possibility, irrespective of the number of native bike riders honking behind me.

    We made it out of those roads finally and took the right turn onto the glorious 4 lane highway and we managed to maintain a good pace till we reached Purnea where we stopped to tank up. As there was no sign of a restaurant or dhaba anywhere around, we ended up crossing the road for "breakfast" that consisted of what looked like kachori and a raw salted green chilli as a side dish.

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    The Chilli had a disagreement with KJ

    We were about to set off for the long run to Jalpaiguri, when Matt discovered that the spring that held the under seat lock in place had flown off. This meant that the rear seat wouldnt lock and kept sliding around. We tried to jugaad the lock into falling in place but kept failing for almost 10 minutes. As the sun kept climbing higher, we realised we were wasting time, and therefore drew up the bungee cords and tied the seat in place. This also meant (unfortunately for her) that Glo had to join me in the car for the rest of the day.

    It was smooth driving for another couple of hours on the amazing highway rolling past Baisi on the well-constructed elevated bypass roads until we reached the West Bengal border at Dalkhola. We stopped here for Chai, which turned out to be, according to Glo - The best Chai of the trip. We also recieved intelligence from our friend Siddharth in Siliguri that there was a storm brewing there, so during the chai stop we broke out the rain liners in the jackets and secured the luggage as well.

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    Batten down the hatches

    We were coasting along in a good rhythm until a small incident broke the pace:

    At one of the junctions, while waiting for some trucks to cross, we saw one of the motorised handcarts - for lack of better description try and fail to negotiate a pothole at least 4 feet deep. While climbing out of the pothole, the cargo in the back - an unfortunate woman in this case - tumbled off the contraption and subsequently the entire vehicle got stuck in the rut. A truck driver decided to try and cross into our lane at the same time and spotted the pothole mid turn and stopped, effectively blocking the road. To make matters worse, this was under the flyover as well, so space was cramped in the first place. After patiently waiting for a few minutes, we were waved on to the other lane by the trucker. This meant we ended up on the service road on the extreme right side, and having cleared the traffic jam, I had to cut across multiple lanes to get back to my side of the road. Meanwhile, the bikers had sneaked through as well, and we had no idea if they had gone ahead or waiting for us. Phonecalls went unanswered and we were contemplating going back into the jam when they finally turned up behind us.

    Lesson in convoy management learnt: Always pre define an upper limit on distance, say 2km after separation, in these cases to stop and wait for the others to catch up.


    Having re-joined the formation, we set off again when the skies darkened above us and the heavens opened up. One of the nicest sights in the world is a rainy highway with very less traffic, good music, and the pilot lights of the motorcycles ridden by two of your friends in a beautiful staggered formation.

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    What a sight!

    Our tummies started growling eventually but we kept rolling past meadows and estates without a sign of a dhaba. However, after a while KJ started furiously signalling for us to stop and turn around as he had spotted his famous A1 chain of highway hotels.

    BUT:

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    Operations Terminated

    After roundly abusing KJ, A1 and everyone else, we set off again and found a small canteen next to a petrol pump where we were treated to a brilliant lunch of rice and dal while the small TV in a corner played Jaani Dushman. We found ourselves drawn to the amazing graphics and hilarious plot twists. With just over 100 km to go, we had a lot of time on our hands. While looking up the route map, we realised that the Bangladesh border was pretty close by, just a 11km deviation to "Zero Point". We decided why the hell not, and set off toward it. On the way, MapMyIndia indicated a shortcut which took us past a eerie deserted amusement park on a road that almost killed the car. There was literally no road, and just huge boulders between potholes that was even tougher to gauge because of the rains and slush. It took the combined efforts of both Glo and me to forge a path that wouldnt destroy the underside of the low Figo. This often involved driving on the extreme right of the road, and surprisingly, most of the truckers didnt seem to mind and let us pass always, apart from a single cookie who seemed determined to run us off the road. (A glance at the number plate confirmed the truck to be from a state with the initials that vaguely means "Above". Wink Wink)

    Half an hour of intense off-roading later, we drew up at the border post. A very nice discussion with the BSF Jawans ensued, which merits its own blog post. That will follow some time later.

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    Horsing around at the border

    After saying goodbye to the good soldiers, we set off for the final leg, and the single lane roads were quite empty as we took the less populated Siliguri bypass route to Jalpaiguri.

    In the car, a quick search of hotels narrowed us down to "Hotel De'l Pritom" that boasted of safe parking and fell within our budget. The final 20 minutes is always the toughest as we battled the small town traffic, drawing up outside the hotel and waited in the car as PD went in to perform her inspection of the premises and declared it fit. We parked inside a compound and finally dragged ourselves into the rooms. We were starving by this time, and after a quick bath we assembled at the restaurant as we ate a ridiculously overpriced dinner. Feeling excited about the next day's ride, I looked forward to falling asleep dreaming of the North East that we would be entering the next day.

    Little did I know what a terrible fate lay ahead.

    TO BE CONTINUED.....
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    Last edited by peregrine; 06-16-2015 at 12:23 AM.
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