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Thread: Solo Two Wheeled Rolling on the Cliff Hanger Road

  1. #1
    Addicted zestbiker's Avatar
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    Default Solo Two Wheeled Rolling on the Cliff Hanger Road

    The call from the Gods that be at Sach Pass had been ringing for a long time and somehow had not responded-but then finally couldn't stop myself and picked it up-I was invited to come see for myself this remote land and its biosphere.
    The timing coincided with the 15August long weekend-floated the idea on my local rider's WA group but no takers there-guess they didn't get the call.
    So I was the chosen one-solo it was.Got the very important approvals from parents and wifey and all was set for the ride on the 12August with the route finalised as Ludhiana-Chamba-Bairagarh-Killad-Kishtwar-Jammu-Ludhiana.
    Then the weather Gods also got into the loop and I was ordered to postpone the trip by week for my happy traveling.
    During the preparation for the trip,ordered set of saddle stays for my KTM Duke390 whom i have lovingly christened "Blor Betty" but somehow they got delayed and not wanting to delay my trip,I had to improvise with a regular bag bungee tied securely at the back.I got a cigarette lighter attachment fitted from battery directly to power my phone and air pump as advised by veteran of Sach Pass and fellow rider Amandeep Grewal.I requested for and borrowed the air pump and puncture repair kit from co rider of my Spiti ride in September2015,friend and also a KTM D390 owner Praveen Dua ji.I also got my tyres slightly overfilled keeping in view the stony and rocky terrain.
    Two days before the ride Praveen Dua ji called and said that he will be joining me in riding till Chamba as he had some work there.
    So 19August morning at 5.30am,two KTM D390 rolled into the sunrise headed for Chamba.
    BLOR BETTY ready to ride out to the mountains


    Blor Betty and my co-riders "Anamika" are twin sisters bought together with just a single digit difference in registeration numbers-resting at Mammon cantonment,Pathankot
    Dad's Bajaj Super-1983-1989
    Hero Honda Sleek-1989-1992
    Rajdoot Yamaha RD350-1990-2017
    Royal Enfield Bullet Std 1970 model-1991-1997
    Bajaj Pulsar P220EFI-2008-2011
    Bajaj Avenger220-2011------
    Harley Davidson XG750 Street ABS 2017-
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  2. #2
    Moderator The Monk's Avatar
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    Default Re: Solo Two Wheeled Rolling on the Cliff Hanger Road

    Travelogue Approved

    Ooh nice. Waiting for the rest!
    Biking is not about what you have between your legs, its all about how well you use it!!!!!!!

    Give your details here if you want to help your fellow xBhpian stranded in your city

    Touring Blog: Cycling in Mongolia!

  3. #3
    Addicted zestbiker's Avatar
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    Default Re: Solo Two Wheeled Rolling on the Cliff Hanger Road

    With the KTM390 cruising at a cool-110-115kmph on the empty early morning highways,we reached Mamoon Cantonment Pathankot at 7.15am and stopped for a cup of tea.
    There a drizzle started and Parveen ji realized that he is not carrying a raincoat.With guidance from the tea stall owner,we went to the Railway station market about 3kms into the town and found a shop who was opening his shop shutter and had raincoats-bought one and just as we were rolling out,the drizzle turned into a downpour.Donned our raincoats and off we rolled into the downpour-by the next 40kms we were fully drenched INSIDE our raincoats and so decided to stop for breakfast .Our breakfast of aaluu-piaz parathas took us 48minutes but the rain did'nt abate-we decided to carry on nonetheless so as to loose as less time as possible but the progress was slow.
    The rain stopped abruptly the moment we entered the Chamba valley at Banikhet and were greeted with lush green farmlands.After packing our rain gear,we clicked some photos and off we were to Chamba,speeding on the welcoming dry tarmac.Reached Chamba at 12.45pm and after filling petrol in our bikes we moved in opposite directions-Parveen ji towards Hadsar for his Mani Mahesh Kailash yatra and myself towards Bairagarh and on wards to Sach pass.The road to Bairagarh goes along the river Ravi at first and after some time leaves the Ravi behind and runs along its biggest tributary,the Kundla-both the rivers are very scenic-but the overcast conditions didnt allow the most appropriate captures.The road was initially good but i soon encountered broken and no road conditions with heavy dumper truck traffic ferrying sand .I had my lunch of rajma-chawal at the village Alawas at around 4pm at a dhabha run by a very hospitable guy named Karam Deen.


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    Dad's Bajaj Super-1983-1989
    Hero Honda Sleek-1989-1992
    Rajdoot Yamaha RD350-1990-2017
    Royal Enfield Bullet Std 1970 model-1991-1997
    Bajaj Pulsar P220EFI-2008-2011
    Bajaj Avenger220-2011------
    Harley Davidson XG750 Street ABS 2017-
    KTM Duke390 BS3 2017-

  4. #4
    Addicted zestbiker's Avatar
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    Default Re: Solo Two Wheeled Rolling on the Cliff Hanger Road



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    I reached Bairagarh which is 85kms from Chamba at 5.45pm and after checking out various stay options opted for Chamuda Hotel at Rs900 for the night with a clean airy room and bathroom with geyser.This place also has CCTV coverage for the parking.Had a bath,lubed the chain of the bike,had dinner over conversation about the details of Sach Pass and retired for the night at 8.30pm for a fitful sleep.Ludhiana to Bairagarh via Chamba had been a 385km ride with almost 240kms of it being mountain riding.
    Dad's Bajaj Super-1983-1989
    Hero Honda Sleek-1989-1992
    Rajdoot Yamaha RD350-1990-2017
    Royal Enfield Bullet Std 1970 model-1991-1997
    Bajaj Pulsar P220EFI-2008-2011
    Bajaj Avenger220-2011------
    Harley Davidson XG750 Street ABS 2017-
    KTM Duke390 BS3 2017-

  5. #5
    Addicted zestbiker's Avatar
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    Default Re: Solo Two Wheeled Rolling on the Cliff Hanger Road

    The morning dawned clear and bright at Bairagarh.Got up at around 7am and it was chilly enough to make me wear a fleece pullover over my nightdress.I took a leisurely stroll around town greeting everybody who was up and about and my smiles were returned with warmth-a few energetic kids wanted me to accompany them up a hill where their herd of cattle were tied which i short of time,gently refused.Went back to the hotel at 7.30am and inquired about breakfast and was told that the cook will come at 8am.
    So i requested the staff for coffee and told them please mix a spoon of coffee with 2 spoons of sugar in a glass and bring it to me for creaming/beating-they were suprised at the request but brought the ingredients nevertheless-after creaming it proper i took it to the kitchen upstairs and handed over the glass to the staff instructing them to put one part milk and 3 parts water boiled together into the glass and give it to me in my room downstairs.A few minutes later,they brought me an odd looking liquid in the glass-which definitely didn't look like coffee-on inquiring that what have you guys done,the staff said that the cook has said that i have put jaggery(gudd) in the glass that's why the liquid is odd coloured-i could figure out that this was most likely because of overnight milk gone bad being used and told the waiter to get me another mixture of coffee and sugar,stand in front of me when i beat it,bring me fresh milk and then see for himself what a coffee looks like-which i eventually got-but this took well over 45minutes and i ordered breakfast of omelettes and parathas and packed luggage and bungeed it to the bike while sipping coffee.
    Moved out after settling the bill at 9.14am-and started for Sach Pass. 2KMS out of town and the weather turned cloudy-Just as i was entering Kalaban area ,an intermittent drizzle started and this would accompany me till Bogotu. I was in no hurry and was soaking in the atmosphere which was rightly very scenic but the drizzly cloudy weather limited photography.Lots of small waterfalls and water crossing came along the way..The road now was stony and my overfilled tyres were making me bounce on the seat with absolutely no cushioning on the bumpy road-but this discomfort was the price that i was ready to pay to minimize the chances of tyre damage/punctures as i was alone.I met with a few bakkerwals with their sheep and horses grazing in the scenic grasslands.One group told me that they would have served me tea if i had arrived a few minutes earlier-they were winding up their breakfast and packing their utensils.Now the snow could be seen in the ravines and mountain tops. When i reached the Satrundi checkpost,i was videographed by the police personnel there along with all RC and licence copies and contact details.There was a well equipped dhaba there with provision for meals which if i had known,i would have moved out of Bairagarh without wasting time for breakfast and could have easily saved an hour.After Satrundi,the landscape becomes more barren and rocky.While i was absorbing the scenic beauty of the helipad area, a group of eleven WET Australian bikers with their back up Bolero came down from the Sach Pass area-they started at 7am from Killad and it was now almost 11.45am-so i like of got the idea what the ride down from Sach would be like.But my "Blor Betty",my D390 said "Giddy up boy" and off we climbed slowly and steadily as the road surface deteriorated from a stony path to wet boulders with dirty snow on the mountain sides .The weather was now cold and i wore my fleece pullover under my riding jacket. but my hands were getting frozen due to the damp summer riding gloves. I had to ride real slow for the fear of falling on wet boulders and it took me well over one hour to reach Sach top with frequent stoppages to admire the serene and absolutely stunning surroundings.I thanked the deity Mata ji at the top for allowing me safe passage and crossed over over from the Chamba valley to the Pangi valley on the other side.Surprisingly the sun came out for a few minutes while i was at the top bathing the whole place with a pleasant glow and warmth for which i was heartfelt grateful to the Lords of Sach

    Nice day dawns


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    Clouds started gathering as i started out


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    On the way to Kala Ban-dense alpine forest area


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    Numerous small and big waterfalls along the way


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    The weather was cloudy and drizzly through out and in the shaded areas snow still had not melted


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    This little one and it's mother wanted the road all to themselves


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    Verdant grassland pastures full of multi colour flowers


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    And the road starts getting tougher and the air colder


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    These yellow wildflowers held sway over a rocky patch


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    And then,nearing the pass,the snow packs showed up in earnest


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    At the top


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    Dad's Bajaj Super-1983-1989
    Hero Honda Sleek-1989-1992
    Rajdoot Yamaha RD350-1990-2017
    Royal Enfield Bullet Std 1970 model-1991-1997
    Bajaj Pulsar P220EFI-2008-2011
    Bajaj Avenger220-2011------
    Harley Davidson XG750 Street ABS 2017-
    KTM Duke390 BS3 2017-

  6. #6
    Addicted zestbiker's Avatar
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    Default Re: Solo Two Wheeled Rolling on the Cliff Hanger Road

    Just as i crossed over to the Pangi valley,the landscape changed from a open wide valley to a narrow valley not more than a couple of hundred meters across. And as i stopped to view the ice walls,it hit me-The CHILLY wind.My wet gloves led to numb hands.My helmet has a top air vent which is stuck in open position and hence the insides were wet from the area around the vent and it suddenly felt that i have an ice cube stuck of the top of my head inside my helmet.And a few hundred meters down the road,the rain joined the part in earnest.I covered my DSLR bag with it's raincover and wore my rain coat.Due to the wet boulder strewn road and sharp descent,progress so very slow-a couple of shepherds walking down the slopes through the shortcuts could easily keep pace with my performance motorcycle and were smiling at my predicament-Nature is a great equilizer is'nt it??My bike's ABS was working overtime .The rain stopped after about 30-40 minutes and then it became foggy-i had to keep my helmet visor open to avoid misting.I removed my raincoat.By this time due to the icy dampness inside the top of the helmet and keeping the helmet open and maybe due to the AMS,I developed a headache which slowing started getting more painful.
    Just as i was nearing the Bogotu dhabas,the sun came out and also the Bogotu nallah posed in front of me with full glory covering at distance of approximately 100 feet across. Stopped to gauge its flow force and depth and realized it was around 1.5 feet deep in the centre and around 10inches of water at the sides.The patch along the mountain side had been trampled by passing four wheelers and so ruts were visible.I decided to ride along the outer edge and calculated my trajectory where there was some evenness in the size of stones below the water.Gingerly tip toed into the water and held constant steering and speed but alas-in the deepest section a stone shifted under the front wheel and i had to balance with my left foot-and instantly felt the sting of the ice cold water.So the nallah won -Bogotu nallah -1,Gaurav Chopra-0.After crossing the nallah,i smiled back at it accepting the defeat of my riding skills graciously. The Bogotu dhabas were empty as i rode in and ordered tea. I removed my wet shoe and wrung my socks dry and put them on the KTM's exhaust pipe to heat dry while sipping my tea.Just then two jeepfull load of chirpy collage girls and their teachers arrived and alighted at the dhaba-and suddenly modest i and my fully loaded bike were the sole centre of attraction for 18-20 girls and ladies-man,that surely felt good and i thanked the Lord's that be for my stroke of luck.I had initially planned to move on after tea but my headache had not abated despite the beautiful environment and company so decided to have some food also to recharge the belly batteries.I had half a platee of Rajma rice,paid up and moved on.
    The dry wind now carried the stony sand and grit with it and i could feel their pricks on my exposed neck.Some road work was also on as i descended.

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    The ice walls still stand 15feet tall at the end of August


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    Birth of a small nallah from the ice melts-this ultimately forms a big stream collecting water all through its length and then meets the Chandrbhaga


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    The Bogotu water crossing


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    Narrow valley continues


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    Unique rock formations-the earth keeps busy within silently-these tell a story how the mountains were formed


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    As the road descends,craggy mountains turn to lush Alpine forests


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    This path led to a village up in the mountains but short of time,i did'nt explore

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    Resting at the Chandrabhaga bridge



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    And she flows fast and furious-The Chandrabhaga of Lahaul,Himachal Pradesh -The Chenab of J&K



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    The view from Killad



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    The headache progressively got worse as i rode down and i did'nt feel like photography and hence this section has the least photos.The country side had changed from craggy rocky peaks to luxurious alpine forests.Very few vehicles crossed me on the way up,a couple of Sumos,a tempo traveller,one HPRTC bus,a Scorpio,4-5 pick up jeeps and two motorcycles.I crossed the Chandrabhaga bridge at around 5.30pm and rode ownwards to Killad.
    At Killad,checked Raj Hotel and Chamunda hotel and felt they were pricey- rode into a tea shop and inquired from the locals where to stay and one of them guided me to the Chandrabhaga home stay where i stayed in a fully wooden panelled room for Rs300(room exactly the same as in the famous Latoda huts).Had a medicine for headache finally and after an early dinner and setting for early morning tea was off to sleep at 8.30pm.

    Last edited by zestbiker; 1 Week Ago at 06:10 PM.
    Dad's Bajaj Super-1983-1989
    Hero Honda Sleek-1989-1992
    Rajdoot Yamaha RD350-1990-2017
    Royal Enfield Bullet Std 1970 model-1991-1997
    Bajaj Pulsar P220EFI-2008-2011
    Bajaj Avenger220-2011------
    Harley Davidson XG750 Street ABS 2017-
    KTM Duke390 BS3 2017-

  7. #7
    Rookie Cruisemonk's Avatar
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    Default Re: Solo Two Wheeled Rolling on the Cliff Hanger Road

    Hi, i Am from jalandhar and good to see punjab peoples also doing these trips very good travelogue please complete it

    Sent from my 2014818 using xBhp.com mobile app
    zestbiker likes this.

  8. #8
    Addicted zestbiker's Avatar
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    Default Re: Solo Two Wheeled Rolling on the Cliff Hanger Road

    Thank you @Cruisemonk
    Will be completing the travelogue shortly.
    Dad's Bajaj Super-1983-1989
    Hero Honda Sleek-1989-1992
    Rajdoot Yamaha RD350-1990-2017
    Royal Enfield Bullet Std 1970 model-1991-1997
    Bajaj Pulsar P220EFI-2008-2011
    Bajaj Avenger220-2011------
    Harley Davidson XG750 Street ABS 2017-
    KTM Duke390 BS3 2017-

  9. #9
    Addicted saikarthik's Avatar
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    Default Re: Solo Two Wheeled Rolling on the Cliff Hanger Road

    Sach is a tough yet beautiful place to ride..

    Li(o)vely pics..

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    Sach is a tough yet beautiful place to ride..

    Li(o)vely pics..

  10. #10
    Addicted maninderz's Avatar
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    Default Re: Solo Two Wheeled Rolling on the Cliff Hanger Road

    Great pics and nice narration.
    Nice to see a pb10 bike.

    Sent from my Redmi Note 4 using xBhp.com mobile app

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