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Introductionhttp://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/4...eos-added.htmlThe Beginning of the Journey:
Brigitte would be riding an Avenger from Bajaj. And I would be riding my Pulsar220 FI.
The Enthusiastic Participant: Brigitte FAYET
Short History of how it all beganDay 1
Brigitte arrived in India starry-eyed and I took her out almost immediately after barely an hour to get her accustomed as soon as possible to the chaotic Indian ways and driving on the left side. For her this was a first. I took it really easy. No U-turns initially. Took her around South Delhi. She did not look too uncomfortable despite the total change in road conditions, weather at , vehicles moving perilously close to her. Then I thought of giving her the acid test. I took her to Nehru Place in peak office hoursFirst Impressions of Brigitte of riding in a big city in IndiaDay 2
The Journey BeginsDay3Brigitte on her AvengerAnd you would think Bengal is the only place they grow rice!
I was stunned at the sheer number of vehicles in Kashmir. NH-1A seriously needs broadening in the valley! And the way most of the Qualis and Sumo Taxis are ridden over there would put most of Delhi Call Centre Taxis to utter shame! I was appalled at their aggressiveness. Brigitte did not seem to think so on this particular day. She was lost in the pleasing views of the Paddy fields while she kept her sedate pace of 70 kmph instead of trying to match with the Qualis drivers at unruly speeds break her neck. We were there to enjoy the sights and not push ourselves close to risking our lives.
Arrival in Srinagar.
Erstwhile xBhp member Styler and a very close friend of mine aka Amit Kalra had given me the contact of a very nice gentleman called Bashir who guided me towards Nagin Lake near the Hazratbal Shrine for a lovely homely stay in a houseboat as I have always done in Kashmir, away from the madding crowd near the canal, in the lake, in the peace and quite that I have associated Kashmir with.
At midday we were installed in a dreamy houseboat floating on water with intricate furniture delicately carved out of walnut wood. There was our room with three beds, another room for someone else, a common dining area, a living room area with a small library, a balcony overlooking the Nagin Lake magically reflecting the surrounding mountains. If there is paradise on earth, it is here, just like Babar had said nearly 5 centuries ago. There is indeed a magical charm about the whole ambiance.
Dreamy Interiors of our Houseboat
Lost in Dreams in a Paradisaical Land
After a sumptuous lunch, the three of us made off in a shikara to visit the Nishad Gardens. Nishad Bagh meaning Garden of Pleasure is the second largest Mughal Garden in the Valley constructed in early 17th century with several terraces going progressively up with cascading waterfalls joining the various terraces and modeled on the Char Bagh system adopted from gardens in erstwhile Persia. Though this is not absolutely the perfect time to visit these gardens, Brigitte seemed happy and delighted to be in such a place. All the flowers were not yet in bloom. It would take probably beginning august.
Venice of India!
Nishad BaghDay4: Departure from SrinagarI would have preferred a better beginning to the day but this prepared me for what lay ahead!500 metresThat is nearly calf deep mud for you. And that you are looking at one of the better patches!
The water was deep at times till the axle!This is the improvement done to the Zoji La
Pit Stop after crossing Zoji La to regroup
Next stop was at Drass for photos and lunch. We stopped at that famous wall built by the Indian army during the 100-day Kargil war when Tiger hill was occupied and people traveling by NH1D were shot at. Had a quick lunch of mutton curry and rice. It was delicious and affordable. We ate like our lives depended on it. I apologized to Brigitte saying that I did not expect such bad roads at Zoji La. And then I shut my mouth.
For the sake of posterity
KargilEODOn the Kargil-Leh Route
Some patches of green provide contrast to the barren desolate landscape
I made several stops to take pictures, some makeshift videos with my N86 despite the good roads of 4 years ago having been eroded out of existence by thick persistent winter snow. But the road was still less than catastrophic and in portions was even close to being excellent wherein I reveled in trying out some of my antics in leaning not forgetting the fact that often a biker is was and will be chased by maniacally jealous four-wheeled cagers and in our county it was no less than the seemingly bulky but ubiquitous in Ladakh, the Toyoto Innova! But such incidents paled in significance compared to the magnificence of the beauty that enveloped me as I moved along like an insignificant speck of dust in the vastness of this marvelous landscape.
A short stop at Hansikot to note the extreme temperatures recorded in this village. Next stop at Fotu LaThe Extreme temperatures of Hansikot!
[img]
[/img]
Photostop at Fotu-La
Lamayuru is not far from Fotu La, a mere 13 kms from Fotu La with some nicely laid new tarmac. I was already beginning to visualize my lunch; remember, I had not had a real breakfast. No matter how beautiful the landscape, after a point in time, hunger is primordial and vital.
Lamayuru
After a satisfying lunch, we went on to visit the gompa at Lamayuru standing at 3621 mts. The gompa on the rock at Lamayuru is one millennium old dating from the 11th century making it one of the oldest monasteries and temples in Ladakh and housing 150 resident monks with some more from the surrounding areas making it one of the most active and populous temple-monasteries in Ladakh. The positioning and building structure of the Lamayuru monastery reminded me strongly of the Meteors that I have visited in continental Greece. Both were built with the idea of isolation from the local population and invaders alike for spiritual pursuits. Steeped in legend, this monastery belongs to the Red Hat Sect of Tibetan Buddhism. We went in and took our time taking some pictures. Tibetan Buddhism is not my strong point and I am far from comprehending their rites and customs despite having visited close to a hundred temples of their kind.
The Lamayuru Monastery atop the rock!
Exquisite Paintings at the entrance of the Monastery
Prayer Offerings
Main Prayer Hall
After spending a good hour at Lamayuru, we were back on the saddle riding towards Leh. We were made to stop after Khalse for registration of our papers, passports etc. As we approached Leh, we were getting longer and longer stretches of better roads. It was a delight riding on these roads. Not only did we move fast and gained time, but we could relax a bit, a remark that Brigitte made that I will be presenting shortly.
Some Good Roads!
Stop at the Magnetic Hill Phenomenon!
Brigitte: The Harley Rider from France in Ladakh!LehAmit Kalra, xBhp id StylerConclusion at EODShanti StupaShanti Stupa
May Peace Prevail
Parking Lot!
Next stop was the visit of Thikse Monastery:
Thikse Monastery was built by a Tibetan Monk in early 15th century right next to the Indus Valley. In importance, it is second only to Hemis Monastery. Thikse is situated 17kms to the East of Leh on the road to Manali. It is another imposing structure with a very structural riot of colours that one expects to find in these parts. Before visiting the Monastery, we had lunch at the foothill of the climb. This was the first and last time that I had a bad headache. I took an anti-inflammatory tablet to make it subside. It worked!
Went up to visit the wonderful nearly 600 hundred year old monastery.
Prayer Wheels
Inner Courtyard!
Prayer Hall
Steps
Doorway
Dalai Lama
Monk
In Recluse:
This was another very nice day after the day in the houseboat. I really liked Leh. I would like to spend more time here, walking around, seeing the streets, the people, the vendors selling their wares. I had a nice day where I was not stressed to negotiate bad roads. I slept well. We did not ride much. We saw two really beautiful monuments. And I have managed to recover from the strain and fatigue of the Godzilla Pass. What tomorrow brings on the road to Chang La remains to be seen. We will deal with it tomorrow. For the moment I can say that we had a very nice, pleasant, beautiful and satisfying day in Leh with the short rides and the visit of the monuments.
Day 7Chang La:
Congratulations to Brigitte for doing this
My Ever faithful pillion!
Chang La Baba Blessed us!
A short video:
YouTube - Chang La in June 2010Our Tents
Inside the Tent, a short break before going off
And finally...
Pangong Tso:
YouTube - Pangong Tso
YouTube - Pangong Tso Mediterranean
Emerald green
I went down to the waterfront!
And tasted the water...
The Vastness of such a place makes you feel infinitesimally small!
Another example:
Land's End
Gulls
Papa, lets go there to the water!
And we went there...Brigitte's Impressions
"Today's ride was beautiful. Most of the road was good surprisingly for a change. It de-stresses the mind as I did not have to constantly think about the rocks on the road, the potholes, the mud and water. I could really soak up the beauty of nature and enjoy the ride.
I had only heard about the Blue Pangong Lake and seen some pictures. But for blue, this is the bluest it can get. Nothing gets bluer than this. And when you get here, it is difficult to imagine which planet you are on. This place does not look like from this planet. Totally barren with desert like conditions, not a blade of grass, and this huge beautiful blue lake that completely takes you by surprise. It is total bliss to be here."
She even demonstrated to us the difference in the cries of the Gulls at Pangong and those in the Mediterranean! And at her demo, the Gulls there took immediate flight!
I had waved at those bikers. Who could they have been! I saw a yellow Zma and another black bike. I had been looking out all the while since morning for the arrival of Ananth. I am sure that they were Ananth and Steve. It would have been nice had I managed to meet them.
Our meals were being prepared. For the price we were paying, there better be some good meat. Twilight had fallen across the valley. The last bits of daylight still held on. It was 2000 hours. In such a clear environment it would never get totally dark as the moon was brightly shining. The shimmering lake was clearly visible. The wind was up as usual and temperatures had rapidly plummeted to Day8Diamox
Satisfied we made our way on to the motorcycles. Looked around for Ananth and Steve. Could not locate them still. I figured that they did not stay at Lukung and assumed that they had probably gone back to Leh since they were not carrying luggage or being the adventurous kinds probably continued towards Lake Moriri during the night!
Warming the enginesThe Two Riders at Pangong Tso
Eighty odd kilometres to go before the summit at Chang La. Most of it is good road other than the last 7 kilometres. However there is a catch. A few kilometres out of Lukung there is a very tricky bridge. The approach to and exit from the bridge is like completely eroded road, mostly large sized rocks resembling round pebbles mostly about 10-15cms in diameter. Not the easiest of paths to negotiate. In fact, this portion of about 250mts is quite dangerous. This was the only point where Brigitte was apprehensive and scared about. And I was for her. But we managed to cover that without too much of problems. Rest was smooth sailing. Till we reached the ascent to Chang La.
This time when we reached Chang La, we took some time out to take a few pictures. Shot a short video. And continued our descent back to Leh. Last time around, I was freezing at Leh with large clouds, windy conditions, temperatures falling several degrees below zero and my breathing freezing the moisture inside my helmet. No such luck this time. Clear good weather, blue skies, bright sunshine, everything that the doctor ordered for a nice ride!
Brigitte shot the state of the roads around Chang La
This is what covered the roads. Dug out some to show!
Weapons of Mass Destruction!
[img]
[/img]
Halfway down I completely unbuttoned my jacket, unzipped and removed my raincoat and folded it up. It was getting warmer. More photos.
While approaching Karu, suddenly I looked in my RVM and Brigitte was no longer there. For the past nearly 2000kms, I have never let her out of sight from the RVM. I slowed down and then finally stopped. Still no Brigitte. Minutes went by. Now I started getting worried. There was not a single traffic on the road. No human beings. No animals. One of the most peaceful and deserted stretches we have ridden on. Where did she disappear? Did she get abducted by Buddhist Monks?
I turned around and rode back. After a few kilometres I found her taking pictures of the monastery just before Karu. I heaved a huge sigh of relief.
This is where I lost herAfternoon spent looking for a barber in Leh yielded these results:
The Leh Mosque
People
Text: Krishnendu Kes aka KEN
Photos: Krishnendu Kes and Brigitte Fayet
to be continued...
Corrigendum: Styler is still member of xBhp, albeit a silent one!
For continuation of our adventures click below...
Khardung La
Leh-Sarchu
Baralach La
Brigitte would be riding an Avenger from Bajaj. And I would be riding my Pulsar220 FI.
The Enthusiastic Participant: Brigitte FAYET
Short History of how it all beganDay 1
Brigitte arrived in India starry-eyed and I took her out almost immediately after barely an hour to get her accustomed as soon as possible to the chaotic Indian ways and driving on the left side. For her this was a first. I took it really easy. No U-turns initially. Took her around South Delhi. She did not look too uncomfortable despite the total change in road conditions, weather at , vehicles moving perilously close to her. Then I thought of giving her the acid test. I took her to Nehru Place in peak office hoursFirst Impressions of Brigitte of riding in a big city in IndiaDay 2
The Journey BeginsDay3Brigitte on her AvengerAnd you would think Bengal is the only place they grow rice!
I was stunned at the sheer number of vehicles in Kashmir. NH-1A seriously needs broadening in the valley! And the way most of the Qualis and Sumo Taxis are ridden over there would put most of Delhi Call Centre Taxis to utter shame! I was appalled at their aggressiveness. Brigitte did not seem to think so on this particular day. She was lost in the pleasing views of the Paddy fields while she kept her sedate pace of 70 kmph instead of trying to match with the Qualis drivers at unruly speeds break her neck. We were there to enjoy the sights and not push ourselves close to risking our lives.
Arrival in Srinagar.
Erstwhile xBhp member Styler and a very close friend of mine aka Amit Kalra had given me the contact of a very nice gentleman called Bashir who guided me towards Nagin Lake near the Hazratbal Shrine for a lovely homely stay in a houseboat as I have always done in Kashmir, away from the madding crowd near the canal, in the lake, in the peace and quite that I have associated Kashmir with.
At midday we were installed in a dreamy houseboat floating on water with intricate furniture delicately carved out of walnut wood. There was our room with three beds, another room for someone else, a common dining area, a living room area with a small library, a balcony overlooking the Nagin Lake magically reflecting the surrounding mountains. If there is paradise on earth, it is here, just like Babar had said nearly 5 centuries ago. There is indeed a magical charm about the whole ambiance.
Dreamy Interiors of our Houseboat
Lost in Dreams in a Paradisaical Land
After a sumptuous lunch, the three of us made off in a shikara to visit the Nishad Gardens. Nishad Bagh meaning Garden of Pleasure is the second largest Mughal Garden in the Valley constructed in early 17th century with several terraces going progressively up with cascading waterfalls joining the various terraces and modeled on the Char Bagh system adopted from gardens in erstwhile Persia. Though this is not absolutely the perfect time to visit these gardens, Brigitte seemed happy and delighted to be in such a place. All the flowers were not yet in bloom. It would take probably beginning august.
Venice of India!
Nishad BaghDay4: Departure from SrinagarI would have preferred a better beginning to the day but this prepared me for what lay ahead!500 metresThat is nearly calf deep mud for you. And that you are looking at one of the better patches!
The water was deep at times till the axle!This is the improvement done to the Zoji La
Pit Stop after crossing Zoji La to regroup
Next stop was at Drass for photos and lunch. We stopped at that famous wall built by the Indian army during the 100-day Kargil war when Tiger hill was occupied and people traveling by NH1D were shot at. Had a quick lunch of mutton curry and rice. It was delicious and affordable. We ate like our lives depended on it. I apologized to Brigitte saying that I did not expect such bad roads at Zoji La. And then I shut my mouth.
For the sake of posterity
KargilEODOn the Kargil-Leh Route
Some patches of green provide contrast to the barren desolate landscape
I made several stops to take pictures, some makeshift videos with my N86 despite the good roads of 4 years ago having been eroded out of existence by thick persistent winter snow. But the road was still less than catastrophic and in portions was even close to being excellent wherein I reveled in trying out some of my antics in leaning not forgetting the fact that often a biker is was and will be chased by maniacally jealous four-wheeled cagers and in our county it was no less than the seemingly bulky but ubiquitous in Ladakh, the Toyoto Innova! But such incidents paled in significance compared to the magnificence of the beauty that enveloped me as I moved along like an insignificant speck of dust in the vastness of this marvelous landscape.
A short stop at Hansikot to note the extreme temperatures recorded in this village. Next stop at Fotu LaThe Extreme temperatures of Hansikot!
[img]
[/img]Photostop at Fotu-La
Lamayuru is not far from Fotu La, a mere 13 kms from Fotu La with some nicely laid new tarmac. I was already beginning to visualize my lunch; remember, I had not had a real breakfast. No matter how beautiful the landscape, after a point in time, hunger is primordial and vital.
Lamayuru
After a satisfying lunch, we went on to visit the gompa at Lamayuru standing at 3621 mts. The gompa on the rock at Lamayuru is one millennium old dating from the 11th century making it one of the oldest monasteries and temples in Ladakh and housing 150 resident monks with some more from the surrounding areas making it one of the most active and populous temple-monasteries in Ladakh. The positioning and building structure of the Lamayuru monastery reminded me strongly of the Meteors that I have visited in continental Greece. Both were built with the idea of isolation from the local population and invaders alike for spiritual pursuits. Steeped in legend, this monastery belongs to the Red Hat Sect of Tibetan Buddhism. We went in and took our time taking some pictures. Tibetan Buddhism is not my strong point and I am far from comprehending their rites and customs despite having visited close to a hundred temples of their kind.
The Lamayuru Monastery atop the rock!
Exquisite Paintings at the entrance of the Monastery
Prayer Offerings
Main Prayer Hall
After spending a good hour at Lamayuru, we were back on the saddle riding towards Leh. We were made to stop after Khalse for registration of our papers, passports etc. As we approached Leh, we were getting longer and longer stretches of better roads. It was a delight riding on these roads. Not only did we move fast and gained time, but we could relax a bit, a remark that Brigitte made that I will be presenting shortly.
Some Good Roads!
Stop at the Magnetic Hill Phenomenon!
Brigitte: The Harley Rider from France in Ladakh!LehAmit Kalra, xBhp id StylerConclusion at EODShanti StupaShanti Stupa
May Peace Prevail
Parking Lot!
Next stop was the visit of Thikse Monastery:
Thikse Monastery was built by a Tibetan Monk in early 15th century right next to the Indus Valley. In importance, it is second only to Hemis Monastery. Thikse is situated 17kms to the East of Leh on the road to Manali. It is another imposing structure with a very structural riot of colours that one expects to find in these parts. Before visiting the Monastery, we had lunch at the foothill of the climb. This was the first and last time that I had a bad headache. I took an anti-inflammatory tablet to make it subside. It worked!
Went up to visit the wonderful nearly 600 hundred year old monastery.
Prayer Wheels
Inner Courtyard!
Prayer Hall
Steps
Doorway
Dalai Lama
Monk
In Recluse:
This was another very nice day after the day in the houseboat. I really liked Leh. I would like to spend more time here, walking around, seeing the streets, the people, the vendors selling their wares. I had a nice day where I was not stressed to negotiate bad roads. I slept well. We did not ride much. We saw two really beautiful monuments. And I have managed to recover from the strain and fatigue of the Godzilla Pass. What tomorrow brings on the road to Chang La remains to be seen. We will deal with it tomorrow. For the moment I can say that we had a very nice, pleasant, beautiful and satisfying day in Leh with the short rides and the visit of the monuments.
Day 7Chang La:
Congratulations to Brigitte for doing this
My Ever faithful pillion!
Chang La Baba Blessed us!
A short video:
YouTube - Chang La in June 2010Our Tents
Inside the Tent, a short break before going off
And finally...
Pangong Tso:
YouTube - Pangong Tso
YouTube - Pangong Tso Mediterranean
Emerald green
I went down to the waterfront!
And tasted the water...
The Vastness of such a place makes you feel infinitesimally small!
Another example:
Land's End
Gulls
Papa, lets go there to the water!
And we went there...Brigitte's Impressions
"Today's ride was beautiful. Most of the road was good surprisingly for a change. It de-stresses the mind as I did not have to constantly think about the rocks on the road, the potholes, the mud and water. I could really soak up the beauty of nature and enjoy the ride.
I had only heard about the Blue Pangong Lake and seen some pictures. But for blue, this is the bluest it can get. Nothing gets bluer than this. And when you get here, it is difficult to imagine which planet you are on. This place does not look like from this planet. Totally barren with desert like conditions, not a blade of grass, and this huge beautiful blue lake that completely takes you by surprise. It is total bliss to be here."
She even demonstrated to us the difference in the cries of the Gulls at Pangong and those in the Mediterranean! And at her demo, the Gulls there took immediate flight!
I had waved at those bikers. Who could they have been! I saw a yellow Zma and another black bike. I had been looking out all the while since morning for the arrival of Ananth. I am sure that they were Ananth and Steve. It would have been nice had I managed to meet them.
Our meals were being prepared. For the price we were paying, there better be some good meat. Twilight had fallen across the valley. The last bits of daylight still held on. It was 2000 hours. In such a clear environment it would never get totally dark as the moon was brightly shining. The shimmering lake was clearly visible. The wind was up as usual and temperatures had rapidly plummeted to Day8Diamox
Satisfied we made our way on to the motorcycles. Looked around for Ananth and Steve. Could not locate them still. I figured that they did not stay at Lukung and assumed that they had probably gone back to Leh since they were not carrying luggage or being the adventurous kinds probably continued towards Lake Moriri during the night!
Warming the enginesThe Two Riders at Pangong Tso
Eighty odd kilometres to go before the summit at Chang La. Most of it is good road other than the last 7 kilometres. However there is a catch. A few kilometres out of Lukung there is a very tricky bridge. The approach to and exit from the bridge is like completely eroded road, mostly large sized rocks resembling round pebbles mostly about 10-15cms in diameter. Not the easiest of paths to negotiate. In fact, this portion of about 250mts is quite dangerous. This was the only point where Brigitte was apprehensive and scared about. And I was for her. But we managed to cover that without too much of problems. Rest was smooth sailing. Till we reached the ascent to Chang La.
This time when we reached Chang La, we took some time out to take a few pictures. Shot a short video. And continued our descent back to Leh. Last time around, I was freezing at Leh with large clouds, windy conditions, temperatures falling several degrees below zero and my breathing freezing the moisture inside my helmet. No such luck this time. Clear good weather, blue skies, bright sunshine, everything that the doctor ordered for a nice ride!
Brigitte shot the state of the roads around Chang La
This is what covered the roads. Dug out some to show!
Weapons of Mass Destruction!
[img]
[/img]Halfway down I completely unbuttoned my jacket, unzipped and removed my raincoat and folded it up. It was getting warmer. More photos.
While approaching Karu, suddenly I looked in my RVM and Brigitte was no longer there. For the past nearly 2000kms, I have never let her out of sight from the RVM. I slowed down and then finally stopped. Still no Brigitte. Minutes went by. Now I started getting worried. There was not a single traffic on the road. No human beings. No animals. One of the most peaceful and deserted stretches we have ridden on. Where did she disappear? Did she get abducted by Buddhist Monks?
I turned around and rode back. After a few kilometres I found her taking pictures of the monastery just before Karu. I heaved a huge sigh of relief.
This is where I lost herAfternoon spent looking for a barber in Leh yielded these results:
The Leh Mosque
People
Text: Krishnendu Kes aka KEN
Photos: Krishnendu Kes and Brigitte Fayet
to be continued...
Corrigendum: Styler is still member of xBhp, albeit a silent one!
For continuation of our adventures click below...
Khardung La
Leh-Sarchu
Baralach La
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