Let there be Light : Bike Lighting, HID etc

[akshay2398]

finally completed LED lighting work(underglow+angel eye)..in flame
here it is

[B7ACKTHORN]

i haven't converted it to dc. No modification have done except led lighting. The whole thing (led modification) is done under Rs.100 by me. As flame's pilot and tail light runs on battery. so i have just done parallel connection to them. I don't thing that there is any need of dc conversion. As Flame is AC+DC. Be sure that ur RRunit, rectifier and and battery is in perfect condition. led strip can work very well between 10v to 15v.

Thanks. Unfortunately I'll have to convert it to DC in my bike. Thanks for the info mate. Much appreciated.

Cheers!
VJ

Sent from my LT26ii using Tapatalk 2

[Boudhayan]

Thanks sandeepcf for the answers,


2. Can I install a more powerful battery (12V 8 or 9 ah) without any other modification? Bike can light up One HID with the the Horn pressed without issue, but if 2 lights are on then the Horn cries Stock battery is 12 V, 5.0 AH (10H)
I dont understand the fact that How can the R15 lit up 2 headlights with a 12V, 3.5Ah (10H) battery without issue?
The issue is with the battery. When I used 2 * 35w for a month with two year old Minda battery, the battery got dead.
See if a UPS 7AH can be fitted without modicifcations. I doubt it.

The thing with the 3.5Ah battery of R15 is still mystery for me.
BTW for my case, I saw the battery chamber, I can just cut the top end (plastic part) of the place and make a place for a 7 ah battery.
So which brand and model to go for? Amaron Pro Bike Rider (Alpha or Beta - whats main difference between them?) maintenance free battery (let me know your views if there are better choices possible).

[lijok]

Is there any difference in the color and light output with the 55W ballast compared to 35W ballast?

None...

Also the APE RR works properly only with load(battery). If there is no battery, the APE RR produces around 17V~20V, It gives the required 14V only with the battery.
This actually is a problem for bikes like Honda Unicorn, Ambition, CBZ etc which require DC for ignition; if there is no battery the bike wont start with APE RR.
But Pulsar RR gives 14V even without battery, so the bike can be started without battery(above bikes).
Pulsar RR gets hotter compared to APE with the same load.

A RR (rectifier n regulator) converts AC to DC and stabilizes the output. A bike starting with or without batter has nothing to do with the RR. Atleast AFAIK! ah never mind..

Thanks sandeepcf for the answers,


2. Can I install a more powerful battery (12V 8 or 9 ah) without any other modification? Bike can light up One HID with the the Horn pressed without issue, but if 2 lights are on then the Horn cries Stock battery is 12 V, 5.0 AH (10H)
I dont understand the fact that How can the R15 lit up 2 headlights with a 12V, 3.5Ah (10H) battery without issue?
The issue is with the battery. When I used 2 * 35w for a month with two year old Minda battery, the battery got dead.
See if a UPS 7AH can be fitted without modicifcations. I doubt it.

The thing with the 3.5Ah battery of R15 is still mystery for me.
BTW for my case, I saw the battery chamber, I can just cut the top end (plastic part) of the place and make a place for a 7 ah battery.
So which brand and model to go for? Amaron Pro Bike Rider (Alpha or Beta - whats main difference between them?) maintenance free battery (let me know your views if there are better choices possible).

I have not followed the full conversation here, so please ignore me if this is irrelevant, but putting in my few points.
Battery dying is mainly because, you are discharing it more than you are charging it. We do the DC conversion, use of APE RR etc so that the battery charging rate is dramatically increased (wrt stock) so as to complement the extra usage (ie using HID, higher W halogens etc). SO unless you do something about the batter charging circuit, using a 40AH battery will also just give some extra operating time, but will be dead soon.

[satyajit200ns]

You can actually do that but i doubt whether an activa's battery will be able to handle the pressure as its almost double the power consumed at present. Wish if my mechanic was on xbhp

Thanks mate.
Will do the same and will share te results.
By the way are 35w xenons available in the market. I prefer philips.

[jimmy79]

Could someone post a link for the APE RR which i can make an order internationally please?

[rprathin]

Ahem, the know-it-all guy doesn't know this?
The ape rr can support higher current, I think up to 40A. Oem rrs are barely sufficient for stock specs.

ape rr max 27 amps
old one was 20 amps but now its 27 amps
few pages back the reason for this increase in amps are there.

[Boudhayan]

I have not followed the full conversation here, so please ignore me if this is irrelevant, but putting in my few points.
Battery dying is mainly because, you are discharing it more than you are charging it. We do the DC conversion, use of APE RR etc so that the battery charging rate is dramatically increased (wrt stock) so as to complement the extra usage (ie using HID, higher W halogens etc). SO unless you do something about the batter charging circuit, using a 40AH battery will also just give some extra operating time, but will be dead soon.

Thanks mate, but the APE RR or whatever, I am totally ignorant about it. I have Fazer which is Full DC afaik. I ride with only one HID on (i.e. only 35w same as stock so no need to do any modification with this) but sometimes in highways or at lonely roads with speeding vehicles i lit up the second hid (then it is 35wx2=70w) so far for this reason I want a higher power battery, I need suggestion on what battery to buy and what modifications are needed so that I can lit up both lights 35wx2=70w without any harm to the battery, and I can leave my bike in rest for 3-4 days without killing the battery power (i can just self start it then, since no kick is there)

Whats the difference between UPS battery and the maintenance free Amaron bike battery?

[viks]

Thanks mate.
Will do the same and will share te results.
By the way are 35w xenons available in the market. I prefer philips.

yup, 35w xenons are available in market. Phillips and osram are good.

[satyajit200ns]

Can any one please put pic of headlamp relay

[lijok]

Thanks mate, but the APE RR or whatever, I am totally ignorant about it. I have Fazer which is Full DC afaik. I ride with only one HID on (i.e. only 35w same as stock so no need to do any modification with this) but sometimes in highways or at lonely roads with speeding vehicles i lit up the second hid (then it is 35wx2=70w) so far for this reason I want a higher power battery, I need suggestion on what battery to buy and what modifications are needed so that I can lit up both lights 35wx2=70w without any harm to the battery, and I can leave my bike in rest for 3-4 days without killing the battery power (i can just self start it then, since no kick is there)

Whats the difference between UPS battery and the maintenance free Amaron bike battery?

Yeah, for this you need a robust charging system, which can keep you battery charged even against the increased discharge. The stock charging circuit cannot do that. A rewind of stator, New higher capacity rr etc are required.

_____________________________________
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[B7ACKTHORN]

None...


A RR (rectifier n regulator) converts AC to DC and stabilizes the output. A bike starting with or without batter has nothing to do with the RR. Atleast AFAIK! ah never mind..




I have not followed the full conversation here, so please ignore me if this is irrelevant, but putting in my few points.
Battery dying is mainly because, you are discharing it more than you are charging it. We do the DC conversion, use of APE RR etc so that the battery charging rate is dramatically increased (wrt stock) so as to complement the extra usage (ie using HID, higher W halogens etc). SO unless you do something about the batter charging circuit, using a 40AH battery will also just give some extra operating time, but will be dead soon.

So Lijo, I have some questions. My VICTOR uses 12V 35/35 for headlights. So previously someone has posted he'd used 35w stock as HID, so if I stick by the same do I need to rewind my stator coil? As you know, there is no direct switch to switch on my headlights, (no pilot lights in my model) I'd have to start my bike for the headlight to work, and at idle, the headlights dims (blips) to the idle RPM as all old school headlights.

Now if there's a battery it's sureshot to have DC in it, of course the battery needs DC to get charged, and the RR does it. So basically, if I need a higher watt HID, I basically replace the RR unit along with stator coil just to provide more current to the battery that's drawn by the HID?

And second, can I just change the RR to a more higher one, and chuck the stator winding if I happen to use a more powerful HID? Will the battery be charged uniformly or drained or should I do the rewinding, RR change if I opt for something higher than 35w

Sorry but I have a few more too, I just need to get them all clarified, anyone who's an expect, can please chime in and help me out too.

Thanks

Cheers!
VJ

[lijok]

So Lijo, I have some questions. My VICTOR uses 12V 35/35 for headlights. So previously someone has posted he'd used 35w stock as HID, so if I stick by the same do I need to rewind my stator coil? As you know, there is no direct switch to switch on my headlights, (no pilot lights in my model) I'd have to start my bike for the headlight to work, and at idle, the headlights dims (blips) to the idle RPM as all old school headlights.

Now if there's a battery it's sureshot to have DC in it, of course the battery needs DC to get charged, and the RR does it. So basically, if I need a higher watt HID, I basically replace the RR unit along with stator coil just to provide more current to the battery that's drawn by the HID?

And second, can I just change the RR to a more higher one, and chuck the stator winding if I happen to use a more powerful HID? Will the battery be charged uniformly or drained or should I do the rewinding, RR change if I opt for something higher than 35w

Sorry but I have a few more too, I just need to get them all clarified, anyone who's an expect, can please chime in and help me out too.

Thanks

Cheers!
VJ

I'll reply later in detail. At office now. :banghead:

_____________________________________
Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

[B7ACKTHORN]

I'll reply later in detail. At office now. :banghead:

_____________________________________
Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks mate.

Cheers!
VJ

Sent from my LT26ii using Tapatalk 2

[The Monk]

So Lijo, I have some questions. My VICTOR uses 12V 35/35 for headlights. So previously someone has posted he'd used 35w stock as HID, so if I stick by the same do I need to rewind my stator coil? As you know, there is no direct switch to switch on my headlights, (no pilot lights in my model) I'd have to start my bike for the headlight to work, and at idle, the headlights dims (blips) to the idle RPM as all old school headlights.

Now if there's a battery it's sureshot to have DC in it, of course the battery needs DC to get charged, and the RR does it. So basically, if I need a higher watt HID, I basically replace the RR unit along with stator coil just to provide more current to the battery that's drawn by the HID?

And second, can I just change the RR to a more higher one, and chuck the stator winding if I happen to use a more powerful HID? Will the battery be charged uniformly or drained or should I do the rewinding, RR change if I opt for something higher than 35w

Sorry but I have a few more too, I just need to get them all clarified, anyone who's an expect, can please chime in and help me out too.

Thanks

Cheers!
VJ

From what I gather, the headlight is AC and not DC. You will first have to convert to DC before you can install HID.

You are mixing up two things, charging of the battery and headlight running on DC.