Query Approved

Hey ashwin as you have pointed out there is too much difference between
The idling rpm's when the engine is hot and cold
And I'm assuming you are keeping the idling to 1.3k so that
The engine does not die when cold

There may be two possible reasons IMO -
1-Your spark plug is fouling and needs cleaning or replacement
2- You are running lean mixture

When you open the spark plug for cleaning then
check it's colour which will give you an indication of your carburetor tuning
If it contains whitish deposits then you are running lean
If it's light brown or brown then the mixture is good

In this season our engine experiences maximum variations in temperatures
A lean mixture is difficult to burn in a cold engine
So bikes running lean mixtures face rough idling on cold mornings

Also do gap your spark plug correctly it also plays a
crucial role in cold starts

Ashwin :

First issue, Checking your carb and overhauling it will do the work. Clean all parts starting from filter to the bore. Additionally, check if your engine is heating up too soon. Check your engine oil level too. I'm assuming that you do not rip your bike for long periods of time.

Second issue, "plasticky sound" is little vague. Can you describe more on that like, response to brake, oil leak etc. Remember, do not touch the disc after driving.. it will be hot like hell and will scorch your skin instantly.

A hunk owner here completed 17k and regarding for the plasticity sound while applying the front disc it same remain from the first day in my case also, I also feared in the starting and then i used to hear it and I am not able to hear it in traffic it only noticable when i park somewhere in piece reported many times to SVC but they not able to rectify it

And I think its because of the quality of the disc pads even it is not that much accurate and does not feel confidence.

I made it a little richer today morning. All seemed well, I kept it at 900 when cold and it reached around 1.4k when warm. Until I saw an open stretch of tarmac, I opened throttle till around 7k RPM and then came to a gradual stop, the bike just stalled. Started again and it couldn't hold the revs, it just kept shutting off. I had to increase idle to keep the bike from stalling again. Again, after a little riding, RPM would go upto 2k and I had to bring it back down with the idling screw. :P

Forgot to check the spark plug, will do tomorrow and report back.

Air filter can be replaced, it's been 6000km since I changed it anyway. I don't get the chance to rip the bike at all. :P Engine doesn't seem to be heating up too soon. All my issues started when I tried to clean the carb on my own, not that I regret it, but yeah, should've seen someone else do it first.

Yes, it is a little vague, note, these are not the OEM pads, but KBX ones. Never had this issue on the OEM pads. But to explain it a little more, it sounds like a zipper on a bag.(Not sure if that helps :P)

I've nearly completed 18k myself. :P Service centers are almost useless, they barely know anything. Only if you've already done the diagnosis will they be able to fix your issue.

Hero Honda's braking on the Hunk and CBZ has been very disappointing, considering the others in the segment. The FZ for example, has amazing brakes in front. The Pulsars are sharp, but lack feedback, the Apache has good brakes too.

One general, question, the idling must be constant right? How much ever I try to tune the bike right, it never works. Could someone post a DIY to tune a carb? Also, could someone tell me how to remove the TPS? Only then can I clean the carb completely. :P

Running it on rich AFR ?
Did you do it correctly ?

Just run the bike for 15-20kms to let the engine warm up.
Then adjust your rpm to 3000revs
Then play with the Bronze screw.
If you tighten it on a 4s bike you are making the mixture lean and if you open the screw out you are making it rich.
You should start by closing the screw fully and then opening it by 1/8th of a full turn.
Factory tuning is 2.5 times opened screw.
Adjust it until you get a stable rpm and needle stops moving.
When satisfied just revert back the rpm to 1200-1400revs.
Try it again and again to learn the perfect tune for yourself.

Won't say rich AFR, but richer AFR. :P Looks like I was running too lean before.
Thanks, Will try that again this weekend. There was once I got the tune perfectly(albeit by mistake), I used to get a mileage of 49kmpl in city then. Alas, those days are long gone. :P

Yeah best of luck for carb tuning lol.
I have been running my bike for as low as 21kmpl when I feel maniac and as high as 57kmpl when the mind bogs down :P

21kmpl is quite bad. :P

I've made the mixture a little richer. The only issue was the bike switching off when I open throttle to 7k RPM. Significant improvement?

Have u checked your clutch regarding that ?
It affects powerband
Btw bro i am young just 17 :P

Clutch seems fine. :P

17? You shouldn't be on a bike, leave alone getting it to return an average of 21kmpl.

Correction.....lol..i got my license september last year ...
Cheers

@ahwin- your problem is 100% with the carb. When you opened the carb the refitting it back is not perfect as a result you are suffering from these problems.
The solution for your problem, is re-opening the carb and properly cleaning and re-fitting it properly.

For opening the TPS, just hold the TPS connector and with other hand press the clips on the connectors. A thin screwdriver or a line tester will help. After pinching or pushing the connector, just pull out the connector from thr carb socket. Never and i repeat never open the TPS by its screw from carb. It will be another headache to reset the TPS.
Clean the carb thoroughly and refit back. First fit the air intake side hose first and then fit the engine side hose. tighten it lightly by the clamps.
Then what you do is start the engine and check if choke is jamming or not. Sometimes a slight open choke will create a lot of headache.
For tuning the easiest method is to:-
1. Open the air suction pipe from engine intake.
2. Seal the hole with your finget otherwise bike will not start.
3. turn the mixture screw 1.6 turns out.
4. Start the bike. Make sure engine is warm.
5. Now increase the idle to 2.5 k rpm by idle screw and hear the sound.
6. Now turn out the screw by hearing the sound. No need to look at tacho.
7. Hear the sound and listen where the idle is highest and bike is roaring. Stop there. It will be in between 1.8-2.5 turns out.
8. Now decrease the idle to 1k rpm and leave the finger blocking the air suction pipe. The bike will stop.
9. Re-fit the pipe into the intake manifold and restart the engine and adjust idle to 1k rpm.

IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER:-
The steps where i told to open the suction pipe from intake manifold and close the manifold opening with finger is very important as if you do not follow this method then idle will not decrease even after opening the screw more turns out. So most think that tuning a CV carb by old method is difficult. But the right method is to close the air suction and then only tune as by this method after the rpm is highest on further turning idle will decrease and thus you can know. All CV carb must be tuned by this method.

Regarding bike shutting up after high ripping, check your spark plug as a spark plug which is sorted will give the same problem as yours. So check that also.

For the sound of brakes, check the metal strip on the callipers and if they are misplaced as many mechanics mispalceses it and that causes the disc to make the sound.